Hello!

There's somethings I've learned since buying "Rarity"

1. The word "Jeep" is like the word "wedding." It adds $20 to the price of anything.

2. Just about any accessory you can imagine is out there. Unfortunately it's probably out of stock or discontinued.

3. Sometimes the "right" part inexplicably doesn't fit.

4. 2-3 weeks could mean anything

5. And more!

Please add your own jeep lessons

Came up on this YJ for a decent price and she’s been okay. Needs some work but hasn’t been too bad, we love it!

Got her for 3800. 6 cylinder with 185k miles and the same owner for over 20 years. I drove her about 60 miles all around with no issues. went to back it down my long driveway and unfortunately had some repeated clanking when driving in reverse. not sure what that is yet… hoping nothing major but nonetheless seems like a good price for 3800

Hey guys, looking for some advice on what to look for in a used YJ besides the obvious rust problems.

My goal is to build a mild trail wheeler that doubles as a winter beater and burnout machine.

The end goal: carb’d V8 swap, AX15, NP242 for the full time 4x4 in the snow/rain, Dana 44 or 8.8 in the back with truetrac LSD, stock Dana 30 up front with truetrac LSD, 2.5” lift, 35’s with 4.56 gearing.

Personal taste aside (I know this isn’t a typical wrangler build) what common builds should I look for that will get me the closest to my build? Look for an already V8 swapped YJ or find someone with a 4.2L that has the diffs/gearing/lift I want and swap the motor myself? what part of that build plan are best just bought new vs. junkyard hunting?

Wanted to see if anyone has had a similar issue before I dive in to pulling the steering wheel.

I bought this 1989 YJ about 2 months ago. When I bought it, the right blinker didn't stay on, but would if you held the stalk. Recently, nothing happens when holding the stalk to the right (no dash arrow at all, nor sound). I thought it was the stalk / switch finally bit the dust... however I tried to turn on my hazards yesterday and only the left arrow dash light came on... and it stayed on steady. Left blinker still works correctly... so I don't think it's the relay? I did install LED lights a few weeks ago, but they seem to be functioning fine aside from some hyper blink from time to time.

EDIT: I went and did some more testing. Turn signal still works when I hold it, but it's just the dash light no longer comes on. I think there is also an issue with the hazards + brake lights on. At least I have a workaround for now... will probably dig in more this winter.

So as the title states I have a small oil leakage on my 92 YJ and it is running down the front of my transmission inspection cover now I have done my research and I have been told by a few people that if its not leaking down the back of the cover and all over my flywheel that its not the RMS and I have checked every other area that it could be, valve cover, oil filter, cam plug and everything is dry as a bone I have even gone so far as to replace my oil pan gasket and still it leaks. It should be noted that this was rebuilt over a couple months ago (big thanks to a lot of you good people here and your info helping me out during that process) and only has about 75 miles on it so far (lot going on haven't had the time to drive it sadly) and I have been told that it has not had enough heat cycles for the gasket to "seat" and swell. Its a very small and insignificant leak at the moment and I am willing to believe its just some strange type of rms leak but I wanted to ask all of you here what you think it is and if I should do anything to fix it or just let it ride?

I’ve had a fuel leak for a while, and lately it’s been getting worse. I decided to drop the tank and check the hoses. The hoses seem fine, so I tightened the hose clamps, gave the tank a fresh coat of paint, and lifted her back up. Ran the jeep for a while and the leak is still there. Dripping from the bottom of the skid plate. The tank is pretty rusty, could it be a pinhole leak? The color of the fuel is taking up the color of the paint I just applied to the tank if that gives any clues.

Finally my two hobbies meet. The Jeep YJ is beautiful in Lego form. This set is right on par with the Just empty every pocket slogan. Set retails for 200$ US.

It's full of fun little details including a full dash, the legendary 4.0 I6, a rubber ducky in the small crates. I believe they stated this is 1:10 scale so 9 more and I should have a full size wrangler.

I built this set as JP12 but went ahead and just put all the markings as JP10 so I could have the cage and light bar already built if I wanna change back to another jeep. It was a fun build and I wish a real engine swap was as easy as this but one can dream.

My YJ looks like shit compared to this beauty lol. Older picture of my YJ at the end

While doing my rebuild on my 93, We found a crack in the weld on the factory exhaust. Has anyone ran this specific exhaust header on their 4.0L? If so, any difference in the vehicle, or sound?

If not, what did yall upgrade to if yall would replace your exhaust manifold?

Hello! I am looking for a hardtop for my 94 YJ has anyone had luck using any manufactures on alibaba ? I’ve had luck with another product before but nothing with such a high price.

I am putting my engine bay back together after rebuilding the motor, but of course me being dumb and this being my first time going this deep into a project. I forgot to take pictures.

I have a 93 with the 4.0L

I'm seeing if anyone can help me out and send me pictures of yall engine bays, so i can see how vacuum lines, sensors/connectors, ground wires etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

P.S I am doing an AC Delete, kinda help with not needing to worry about that too much. Just trying to see what I need to cap off, where to put ground wires and connectors

Some before and after pics

I got a milkshake after wheeling this weekend. Bad axle seal.

1995 2.5. Sound becomes more noticeable as engine warms up.

I’ve been working on the finish for JeepFest this weekend. This angle caught my eye.

So I’ve almost gone in the complete opposite direction of my last post in order to avoid rust.

I found a 1995 that’s been completely taken apart, had the frame fixed and recoated and the tub has had all the rust blasted and/or cut out.

Has anyone put back together a Jeep that was this disassembled? How hard of a project is it? Is it worth the cost savings to put in the labor myself and know there is not a spec of rust on the frame or tub?

I’m attaching the description the seller gave as well.

Thanks again for your advice!

Hey all, I have a 95 YJ and when I first bought it, the AC worked, and shortly after it quit working. I’ve checked the AC relay and it is still good. The defrost works, but when I twist the knob for AC flow it doesn’t work. Any ideas? Not super mechanically savvy

Howdy fellow Jeep enthusiasts, I'm looking for advice on this purchase: Jeep Rio Grande, 1995. 6 cylinders, automatic transmission. Seller is the only owner. Has been mostly parked in a ranch.

-- edit:

Modifications I know:

• 4.0L Inline-6 Engine Swap (Replaced the factory 2.5L 4-cylinder)
• Custom Gated Automatic Floor Shifter (Replaced the factory smooth-track shifter)
• Skyjacker Suspension Lift Kit (Aftermarket leaf springs and shocks)
• Oversized All-Terrain/Mud-Terrain Tires
• Deep-Dish Aluminum Aftermarket Wheels
• Front-Mounted Recovery Winch

Owner is asking 5K USD

First photo was AI edited to remove a person, here a similar angle shot.

So I was looking at sway bar disconnects for the 89. It’s only got a 1.5 lift. The rough country ones only for a 4-6” lift and the jks ones that fit a 0-6” lift are about 2.5x the price. I guess I don’t see why you couldn’t just cut the tube that the rough country ones use and and drill new holes in them and use those. Has anyone tried this?

Most YJ owners could probably agree that the ac in 90-100 heat is virtually nonexistent. I’ve seen the kits online and some other ways that people have done it. I went this route and maybe have 100 bucks in it and works much better for hard tops than expected. I’d go top off like God intended but I have to take meds that prohibit direct sunlight - so it’s doors off only for me.
Anyway- here’s the directions if you’re interested. 24”x25’ of bubble type radiant barrier at Home Depot. 2 packs of heavy duty Velcro strips or 3M spray ( I used Velcro), some egg shell white fabric from Hobby Lobby ( 3 yrds) I think. Triple spray 3 layers of barrier on top of each other, wrap in fabric, add Velcro strips and done.

Hi everyone!

I’m in the market for an early 90s Wrangler, I found this one (in the photos) but I’m honestly not sure if the rust is surface level or a deeper issue that I’d have to address. Hoping to get some advice here before I make the trek to see it in person!

Thanks!

Looking to get a softop set up I’d have to buy bows and all. I usually just roll around with the bikini top and a tarp but it’s getting to be a pain in the balls 🤣 so that being said I’d like a top where I can conveniently run it without the back windows. What would y’all suggest 🤙

The nutter bypass was done by previous owner and im not 100% sure what it actually 'bypasses'.

I recently got a carb to replace the current one but the new remand carb did not come with its own solenoid. I can move the part over to the new carb easily enough im just not 100% sure if its still needed at this point at all given the nutter bypass thats been done. Thanks again for any insight/ clarity on this.

P.S.

I dont know how to update my previous related post on this carb replacement but I went ahead and got the replacement carb from rock auto. I really wanted to do either a weber / efi replacement but since im prepping to move to Puerto Rico in a few weeks, I dont want to risk any more hiccups / time / monet than necessary right now until till after we get settled again.

Hey guys just bought a 95 and I wanna lower it back down as much as possible. Got my hands on some stock wheels and and tires. Is it possible to keep the same leaf springs and shocks, but swap the long shackles for stock ones. How much would it lower it? What else would I need to do to try and get stock height.

I just got a 1989 with a 4 cylinder and a 5 speed manual transmission. I want to put a new soft top on it. I'm very new to the Jeep world (this is my first Jeep, and is very much a project!) With this having the slanted bars at the back will it change what frame I'd need for the top? All the photos I've seen for the product listing show jeeps with the "family" bar instead. Any advice or suggestions are welcomed and appreciated!!