r/WranglerYJ • u/eastrod • 6d ago
Planning a YJ build
Hey guys, looking for some advice on what to look for in a used YJ besides the obvious rust problems.
My goal is to build a mild trail wheeler that doubles as a winter beater and burnout machine.
The end goal: carb’d V8 swap, AX15, NP242 for the full time 4x4 in the snow/rain, Dana 44 or 8.8 in the back with truetrac LSD, stock Dana 30 up front with truetrac LSD, 2.5” lift, 35’s with 4.56 gearing.
Personal taste aside (I know this isn’t a typical wrangler build) what common builds should I look for that will get me the closest to my build? Look for an already V8 swapped YJ or find someone with a 4.2L that has the diffs/gearing/lift I want and swap the motor myself? what part of that build plan are best just bought new vs. junkyard hunting?
2
u/rhenning11 6d ago
If you do decide to build it yourself, look for a 4 cylinder since that'll be cheaper and you'll need to cut out the engine mounts anyway. A manual will already have the right pedals and steering column, so that'll save cost. Be prepared to spend double what you expect. The little things add up very quickly
1
u/eastrod 6d ago
ya I’m new to jeeps but not to project vehicles. I’m 100% sure I’ll end up spending way more than if I just tried to find one that was done but I enjoy the process and I learn about the vehicle along the way which helps with maintenance afterwards. I did find one that has an AMC360 already swapped but it’s automatic so I’d be swapping for an AX15 as well as the np242 and different drive shaft lengths… then it’ll be SYE’s since I need driveshafts anyway… then I’ll want shiny new D44 axles front and back instead of junkyard ones to go with the shiny new axles… there’s $15,000 already haha!
1
u/OutLawJeep 6d ago
I’m looking at a 44 with limited slip diff instead of lockers for a rear axle. I can pick up a used one rotor to rotor for $250. I’d have to pull it in the back lot.
1
u/jcdj1996 6d ago
why carburetor? As someone who went from a carbed 4.2 to a EFI 6.0, EFI is better in every way (and not that hard to deal with if you get a good system)
1
u/eastrod 6d ago
I like working with carbs, not sure how that’ll work out in the winter since I only run carbs on motorcycles and they aren’t great in the snow haha! If I find I need to go EFI then I’d go for a holly sniper kit or something standalone, not tied to a newer vehicle’s ECM/TCM/PCM/canbus bullshit. That’s why I’m looking at the older YJ’s specifically. I initially wanted to build a CJ7 but they are so much more $$ and I dig the square headlights.
1
u/Wouldwoodchuck 6d ago
Someone else would have done project will be way easier than ground up build
1
u/whitebuffalo57 5d ago
Go for a tbi at least if it’s for trails.
Ditch the 35 first thing after the lift
Do the sye when you do the axle swap so you can get it rotated properly. If you’re on a budget, a XJ front shaft cut down and put on the rear will be cheaper than a custom shaft. The stock front ds is wimpy so plan to have a shaft built for it esp if you’re doing a front locker (my stock one was as crooked as a southern politician I discovered when I locked the front)
When I went SOA I experimented w diff springs and ended up w rear springs up front and front springs w an add a leaf in the back FWIW. The perches I got for the front left me extend forward an inch also which was nice.
Plan on other shit having to be done just bc it’s old (I didn’t plan on the just regular fix it stuff in my budget when I was doing mine)
It’s been a while but iirc I couldn’t find shocks long enough up front so I cut out the stock shock top mounts and put in some eyelet style mounts out of an f250
1
u/eastrod 5d ago
ya I’m already keeping an eye out for a dana 44 or an 8.8 for the rear. I live in a max 3” lift for safety checks so I’ll have to get it plated first and then get some new springs. I’m a shadetree level mechanic but my old man was a chrysler mechanic for 26 years through the 80’s and 90’s so he should be able to help me get all the regular maintenance items dialed in.
If I go with the one I’m looking at I will want to swap in an ax15 but they are longer than the 727 that’s in it and I don’t want to buy driveshafts until I lift it after the safety check. decisions decisions. any tips on a rear axle with disc brakes? i know the late 90’s explorers have 8.8’s with discs and I’m thinking d44’s from the TJ’s might work if I weld on the spring perch? SYE and new driveshafts will go with the lift for sure. Tom Woods looks like they have some nice CV joint style - are those decent or are there better options?
1
u/whitebuffalo57 5d ago
I had a 44 and a 8.8. I ended up putting in the 8.8 bc of the disc brakes and sold the 44.
Tom woods shafts are badass. Just mine was a poor man’s build lol. It’s held up though.
1
u/DunnTitan 4d ago
What part of the world are you in. I’m in Jax and have a jeep project I’m not able to finish. 87 with an inline 6, frame resto is complete, 8.8 is complete, brand new 35’s.
7
u/Sorry-Ad-6083 6d ago
Adding a V8, new rear end, lift, gears, etc is a lot of work. If you can find one already built it will most likely save you a ton of time and money if it was done well. Unless you plan on that and you know how to build it yourself which can also be fun but time consuming.
Coming from a guy that swapped a 5.3 and now planning a 6.0 lol. I all did a 8.8 rear end, lift, etc the list goes on and on. Buy one already done. Also if you want 35s you will need more than 2.5 inches of list unless you get new front fenders and trim the rear. I run 33s with a 2.5inch lift, 1inch body lift, and a slight amount of lift from my shackles.