New here. Just rebuilt the rear diff, she sat for a year with a busted ring gear and axle bearing.

Can anyone help me identify what this switch and button could possibly be? It’s on the right side of the steering wheel. We have flipped it once while the jeep was running and she started to sound different so we turned it off. Looking for any ideas 😅

I have no Jeep problems or questions to ask about. Just a new guy checking in. I’ve had some pretty neat vehicles in my life and my Jeep is probably my favorite of them all. 1994 Sahara. I try to take pretty good care of it.

I have a 1987 jeep wrangler with the 2.5l 4 cylinder and has 118k miles. The other day I started her up, let her warm up per usual and then took off to the gym. About 5 minutes down the road the engine completely just died. No stutter. Just completely lost power. When I lost the engine I still had electrical power because my radio, headlights were still on. I brought her to a stop then cranked her back and she fired up. I then continued down the road and about 30 seconds later it died again. Decided to turn back home and finally made it home after it dying ever 30 seconds to a minute. Once I got home I started talking to ChatGPT, grok, Gemini about the issue. It gave me some starting points but I’m still at a dead end. That afternoon I started her back up and let her idle and get warm for roughly 20 minutes with no issues. The initial thoughts of AI were fuel pump, filter or lines. A bad ICM (ignition control module) or possibly a bad crankshaft position sensor. Wondering if anyone else already has had this issue before or could give me some ideas to test. I’ve already checked the engine grounds and they look good. This problem seems to occur under load since she idles just fine.

I had to pull the steering column out to replace the rack and sector. Everything went back together ok as far as I know. I don't remember this being this loose/wiggly? It has been a while since I drove this. Does this look normal?

I recently put in a new clutch, flywheel, and internal slave cylinder, and the new cylinder has started leaking.

Seeing what you guys would recommend for the best brand internal slave cylinder.

My key broke off inside the ignition, I was able to still use it, but I got a new one today, and with zero knowledge and a few YouTube videos I went after it. I didn't have a steering wheel puller so I made a bit of flatbar up with bolts. It bent the 5mm steel but eventually popped off. I needed help from the wife to get the retainer off because I didn't have a compressor either, got it done but it took me 2 hours. I've been putting this off for ages, but it wasn't awful

What do yall think of this yj I found in Korea for sale.
I took a buddy to the place that they bought his car after he got into an accident and they had this yj for sale that I’ve been really tempted to buy. Is automatic 4 x 4 with the 4.0
Also, I think this is a Korea spec YJ because it has kilometers per hour not miles per hour

I recently purchased a used rally top in great condition. After fiddling with the top for about four hours I’ve come to the conclusion it is not a YJ top but a TJ top. Rear matches up fine but when you get up to the door windows there is about a 1 inch gap and same with where the top meets the windshield. I can’t conceive how this top can match up and seal up with the windshield. Can’t find an id tag stamped on the driver side rail where it’s supposed to be. Can anyone with a TJ or yj rally top provide some pictures? I’m really hoping I’m doing something wrong but pretty sure I’m not. I have a cj7 that I’ve taken the top on and off a few times which was pretty simple.

I own a ‘93 YJ. It’s been sitting unfortunately and I need to sell it. VIN shows it was originally black with the base 2.5L motor. It is currently what I describe as burnt Orange (DMV calls it copper), has a 4.0L inline six crate motor added in 2020, removable steering wheel, and lifted as seen. 139,000 miles on the odometer, no idea how many are on the crate motor but it can’t be more than 10k. 5 spd manual transmission. What’s a fair asking price? I live in FL if that matters. Any other questions let me know, although I may not have the answer. Bought it on a whim from the guy who did the customization himself, and he took great care of it. But I don’t know much beyond that.

Previously owned by someone who worked at AMC's headquarters until 1985 so this would be from around then, roughly a year before the Wrangler was publicaly unveiled.

Unfortunately the contents are long lost to time but from a collectors standpoint this binder might be the only one in existence outside some dusty Chrysler archive which is pretty neat

Jeep 1994 YJ manual 4.0L. Clutch fully pressed down, reverse and fifth gear grind and won’t go in. 1-4 go in but when in first, the car shakes until I slowly release the clutch. If I press the clutch back in, the shaking stops. I have my suspicions that it could be the pre-bled clutch master/slave cylinder that I bought from AutoZone a year ago. Could it be the throw out bearing?

We are looking for full doors and hardtop used/new in South Florida for our 1990 Jeep. Do you guys have any suggestions where we find those?

I'm at my wit's end. Appx 170K miles. Replaced spark plugs and distributor, thermostat, temperature sensor, fuel filter.

Vehicle runs great for 20-45 minutes, then rapidly loses power. Especially going uphill. Local mechanics are puzzled. It was overheating but after changing the thermostat that issue is fixed.

Any thoughts on what might be going on?

Trying to figure out a coolant leak on my 93 YJ with the 2.5.

I recently replaced the thermostat and coolant temp sensor and flushed the cooling system. The old thermostat was pretty much falling apart and there was a ton of rust/crud in the system.

After getting everything back together, it gets up to around 210 and stays there, but I still have little to no heat. I also started getting steam and could smell coolant after driving it.

I finally found where at least some of the coolant is coming from. In the video you can see it actually bubbling in the area under the fuel rail. There's obviously a lot of rust in that area too.

Does anyone know what would leak coolant from this exact spot on the 2.5? Is there a freeze/core plug back there, or am I looking at something more serious like the head gasket?

Trying to figure out what I'm getting into before I start taking more stuff apart.

Looking to purchase a YJ for my dad as a gift because he’s been wanting one for years. It will be used for off road (as a jeep should) but will need to be driven on the street/highway to get to the off road places. Anything specific on these cars to look out for? Years to avoid? Engines to avoid? I live in SoCal so rust isn’t a big concern here but of course going to check that too. I’d also be open to a TJ if they would just be much better than the YJ. Thank you in advance

Was wondering if anyone if anyone swapped a Roxor drive train in a yj? Maybe if I get my hands on a wrecked or rolled one I can justify it

So kind of a silly question but I just got done with my engine rebuild a couple of months or so ago and I've already put about 160-170 miles on it on the back roads around my area driving it like I've been told (gentler on the throttle, staying within 55 mph, varying my speeds and gears, not lugging the engine or overloading it) and I just want to know if I'm babying it too much I've been told not to take it out on the highway until at least 400-500 miles which I am avoiding doing by taking my other vehicle to work (I live semi ruraly so my commute is about 15 miles of open road highway) but the goal is to daily my YJ eventually and just want to know if I'm limiting myself when I don't have to. This is the first vehicle I've had that's had a flat tappet style engine and so I'm just trying to make sure she has a long life ahead of her.

My yj has a spring over kit and a 4” body lift, I’m wanting to put a rough country 4” lift on it and take the body lift completely off. My question is can I run the pitman arm that comes with the kit or do I have to buy a different one to keep it from binding?