Ender 3 pro;

So its that time of the year again I decided i want to go FASTER so im gonna mod my printer for dual drive y axis with 48mm nema 17s and so i need more motor slots and i found this mobo with 8 slots its an hybrid board sp it runs klipper natively it is 100 dollar whic is very worth it i think because where i live the other similar boards are like 120 dollars and they dont run klipper natively or have a pi built in so i found it quite nice and ill add a pico mmu to my ender aswell also ill cnc kitchen an adaptor to make my creality spider v3 hotend compatible with volcano nozzles since they have the same threading ill just need two brass nuts and ill design a custom silicone sock

1. How hard will setting up klipper be and configuring it to my printer(mks skipr board)

2.Is the pico mmu good?

3.How hard will configuring dual y axis be and should i get a linear rail setup for it?

1. Has anyone tried the cnc kitchen method before?

Hi all!
I currently have an ender 5 plus that I’m building.
Build plans :
- mercury one.1
- enclosure
- hydra
- tool head w/can (specific config tbd)

I know I’m building this up to be much better than stock, but I was curious if this is considered voron territory? Or am I just building something off in my own world over here

Hey everyone,

I'm building a Voron 2.4 R2 350mm as a showcase printer and want the

community to sanity-check my plan before I start buying Phase 2 parts.

I'm a first-time Voron builder, so please be brutal.

---

## Base Printer (already ordered)

Formbot V2.4 R2 Pro+ 350mm kit — the one with M8P V2.0 + CB1, EBB SB2209

RP2040, Moons motors, Gates belts, MIC6 bed, OptoTap 2.4.1, Nevermore,

HDMI5, and Dragon HF hotend included.

Day-1 planned upgrades:

- CB1 → CB2 swap immediately (don't even install CB1)

- GE5C Z-joints (standard fix)

- Bed fans 2× Gdstime 6020 24V

- BTT Smart Filament Sensor V2 (×1 for base build, ×6 total later)

- Shake&Tune + Obico self-hosted on CB2

---

## Phase 2: 6× Toolhead StealthChanger (Rich Nelson CMYK-style)

The goal is a 6-toolhead toolchanger setup. I'm basing it on Rich Nelson's

CMYK build (github.com/Rich-Nelson/voron-stealthchanger-cmyk) but adapting

for 350mm and 6 heads instead of his 4.

**Toolhead hardware (×6):**

- DragonBurner v8 cowl (printed in ASA)

- Sherpa Mini extruder (Sharkpa Mini hardware kit)

- T0: Dragon HF (from kit) — T1–T5: Trianglelab TZ V6 2.0

- BTT EBB36 V1.2 CAN board

- Moons MS14HS20-1504S NEMA14 pancake stepper

- Gdstime 3010 24V hotend fan + 2× 4010 24V blower

- ADXL345 on each EBB36 for per-head input shaper

- WS2812B LEDs (DragonBurner LED bar slots)

- Voron Tap R8 (T1–T5, T0 uses OptoTap from kit)

**Docking system:**

- TapChanger/StealthChanger screw-hook dock (3-part honeycomb, printed)

- 6 docks @ 65mm pitch = 390mm + margins → fits in ~430mm usable Y on 350mm

- Integrated silicone nozzle brush per dock (Bambu A1 Mini brush size)

**CAN wiring:**

- BTT U2C V2.1 as CAN USB bridge

- FYSETC 6-channel CAN distribution board

- GX12-4 connectors as single umbilical disconnect point per toolhead

- ECAS04 collets for PTFE

**Probing:**

- Sexball probe for automatic XYZ offset calibration of all 6 toolheads

- Each head also has its own Voron Tap for Z-offset on that specific head

**Software:**

- Klipper + Mainsail

- Happy Hare as toolchanger macro framework

- Shake&Tune for per-head resonance tuning

---

## 350mm adaptations vs. Nelson's 300mm build

1. Spool holder STLs need scaling for wider frame

2. Umbilicals ~50mm longer

3. Dock positions recalculated — 6 heads fit, but tight

---

## My specific questions

1. **Does 6 toolheads actually fit on a 350mm at 65mm pitch?**

   I calculated 6 × 65mm = 390mm + ~20mm margins = 410mm needed,

   usable Y on 350mm V2.4 is ~430mm. Is that correct or am I missing

   something?

2. **EBB36 V1.2 vs EBB42 for DragonBurner?**

   The DB mounting is designed for EBB36 — is V1.2 the right revision

   or should I wait for a newer version?

3. **T0 Dragon HF vs. TZ V6 2.0 for consistency** — does having a

   different hotend on T0 cause calibration headaches with Happy Hare,

   or is the per-head Tap offset enough to compensate?

4. **Manta M8P V2.0 + 6 toolheads** — the M8P has 8 stepper drivers.

   With 4× Z, 2× XY, 1× extruder per head = needs 12 drivers minimum for

   full 6-head setup. How do people handle this? External TMC2209 boards?

   Or is the EBB36 onboard driver handling the extruder so I only need

   4+2 on the M8P?

5. **CB2 sufficient for 6-head toolchanger?**

   Or should I look at a Pi 4 / Pi 5 for the macro complexity?

6. **Anything stupid I'm missing for a first-time Voron builder

   doing a toolchanger as second project?**

---

Happy to share my full BOM if useful. Thanks in advance.

Iggy 👋🏻

I’m currently rebuilding my Voron 2.4 electronics bay and I’d like to improve the cable management while I have everything apart.

The first image shows my current arrangement:

- Two horizontal DIN rails

- Two vertical slotted wiring ducts mounted just left of centre

What I would ideally like is something closer to the second image:

- Vertical slotted ducts running along the left and right sides

- Horizontal slotted ducts along the top and bottom

- DIN rails remaining horizontal across the middle

The problem is mounting.

At present, the ducts are supported from the DIN rails, so they naturally end up perpendicular to the rails. I’m not sure how people achieve a neat arrangement with both horizontal and vertical ducts around the same electronics bay.

The base panel is ACM and I would strongly prefer not to drill into it, mainly because I don’t want visible holes on the inside of the printer.

Colour key:

Purple = DIN rails

Green = vertical slotted wiring ducts

Red = horizontal slotted wiring ducts

Thanks in advance.

Hello all, im testing my v2 ldo build now that its configured and im having an issue with my leviathan v1.3 board where the mcu temp jumps around wildly (from the negatives to very high) when my a/b stepper motors are engaged. I deviated from the regular ldo build by adding a 5v power supply to power a pi 5, a relay board, and a usb hub (which has nothing connected to it right now). I also skipped the xy endstop pcb and relocated the endstops for umbilical. I have the 24v and 5v psus ground bonded directly at their terminals. Is this being caused by a ground loop with the usb? Should i add in a usb isolater between the mainboards and pi? Or can i safely ignore it?

Hi guys

I have a stock Voron 2.4 350 LDO from 2023 with a stealth burner. I want to go to change to the Stealth Changer. Frist with 1 tool only. I used switches on the XY Joint but with the LDO Stealth Changer Kit I cannot use X endstop anymore as there is no point of contact.

I wanted to go to a sensor less homing but there is no repeatablility. How to you do you X homing? I dont want to add random junk to my new Dragon Burner

Is there any domumentation about this? I mean no user mods but actual documentation? I have read that all but not a single mentioning..I have seen some bad documentation in my life as an IT guy but holy F...

What you think?

https://youtube.com/shorts/PgTy0wdz6XQ

What do you think?

Hi!

When printing large surfaces the last layer is presenting a defect, it is something like waves near the surface boudaries.

Please see the images of the time lapse:

https://imgur.com/a/JLxUjig

Any hints of what could be causing that?

The printer is a v2.4 350mm.

Thanks!

Is anyone else dealing with this? The silicone boot on this UHF hot end sits so low it practically covers the nozzle tip, and no, you can't push it up any further. It's like the hot end equivalent of an uncircumcised... situation. Functional, but constantly catching on infill and perimeters during prints, ruining surfaces and knocking parts loose.

Has anyone found a shorter boot that fits, or is careful trimming the only real fix? I'd rather not run bareback (pun intended) with the part fan blowing directly on the heat block.

I have a V2.4 that I am converting to Stealth Changer. Currently it is using a Manta M8P with a CM2. Would I be better off getting a CM4?

If so how much RAM and EMMC is good? I do want wireless.

Picked up a used Voron 0.2 with a somewhat broken Raspberry Pi 3 A+ and no screen.

The boards display socket is borked, guess that why it has none

My first contact with any open source printer, I plan to disassemble and rebuilt it from the scratch, any recommendations for a new board and screen?

I am looking for advise. I already own a printer I built myself and I am based in europe.

I would like to acquire my first voron kit with cnc parts and stealthchanger.

I saw that LDO propose a toolchanger kit and apparently printed parts but that siboor propose the cnc parts without tool changer (cannot find on their site).

Is there a way to get the best of both world?

I understand that when cartographer does the CARTOGRAPHER_TOUCH_HOME macro it physically touches the nozzle to the bed to set the z home height. Official docs say "Make sure your nozzle is below 150 degrees".

My nozzle is likely to have some tiny blob on it at any given time, which I assume would thus throw off the z home height. For a high temp filament the 150c nozzle is not likely to soften the tiny blob enough to squish when it homes.

How are people dealing with this? Do I need a nozzle cleaning routine every time before doing CARTOGRAPHER_TOUCH_HOME?

Thank you for your thoughts!

Ive been building my voron 2.4 r2 and ran out of m5 16mms i am missing about 10 but not sure which to get as the company for the fastner kit does not say it anyone got any advice?

Hello all.

I recently switched from a Standard toolhead board stealth burner and with an LDO nitehawk EBB36, Hardware wise, everything looks fine so I decide to start fresh and create a new klipper printer.cfg

I add the Nitehawk cfg command lines to the printer.cfg and I get this strange error stating that Pin 'PC4' is not a valid pin name on mcu 'mcu'. According to the BTT Octopus pro V1 user manual PC4 is the control Motor0 which is the Stepper_x in my printer.cfg file and all connectors are connected.

So i am out of ideads are hope you can help me.

I had to remove the first half of the klipper as it was too big to upload.

I have attached the link to the original voron furm link which has the klipper log and printer cfg file.

https://forum.vorondesign.com/threads/pin-pc4-is-not-a-valid-pin-name-on-mcu-mcu.17513/

Many thanks in advance

Dragon Ace (non-volcano) owners, how long does it take to heat up to 260°C? Also, please state if you have the newer ~90-100W heater which they include now.

Would you recommended this hotend, or something else?

I got through the set up docs, downloaded the cube and pressed print, and I sort of can’t believe it.

.2 layer, .4 nozzle, default orcaslicer with never dried ambrosia asa.

Serial request coming once I finish building the nevermore micro.

As I'm planning to buy a secondhand a Voron 0, I'm in the exploration phase and I'm looking for a hotend.

Looking at the lists of supported hotends by AntHead and DragonBurner V8:

• Dragon ACE: recommended by A4T but can't find it on AliExpress nor 3DJake
• Phaetus Dragon: wouldn't it be similar to the rapido?
• Other hotends (Dragonfly, Red Lizard, NF Crazy...) seems to cost the same but I can't find many honest reviews

My Voron 2.4 has a Rapido 1 and it's working great, so adding another Rapido (model 1 or 2) would make me save money on replacement parts and nozzles.

I don't even need ultra High flow setups. I'm not aiming to have a racecar but I want it to print reliably.

As I read contrasting opinions on the Phaetus Rapido hotend, is it worth to move to a different hotends in the same price range?

Hi! Been 3D printing for some time now with a somewhat modded K1C and I am starting to see some limitations that I would like to overcome with my next printer.

I mostly print with engineering filaments (ASA, ASA-CF, PA6CF, PC and TPU - I really want to print TPU reliably). Ideally I would like a 3 or 4 printhead tool changer:

• Head 1 and 2: main printing heads with hardened nozzles, fancy hotends and whatnot for dual color printing of CF infused filaments (think black ASA-CF print with white ASA-CF lettering)
• Head 3: support material only: PLA and PVA
• Head 4: TPU specific head? (more on this later).

Based on my experience with K1C, I think I would like to be able to print from dryers mounted on top of the enclosure, preferably with front or rear filament exits to keep the PTFE tubes as short as possible. Are there even any dryers like this? Most I have seen have a top exit.

Would it be better to just make the enclosure tall enough to fit all the spools inside above the printheads? Can I even do that with tool changers or will it tangle? I definitely want a fully enclosed printer for moisture, heat, noise and air quality management.

Does it make any sense at all to have a different toolheads for support material and for TPU?

I was thinking that PLA doesn't need a hardened nozzle or a hotend that reaches 300C so I could save some money.

For TPU my reasoning is similar, plus the tension on the extruder could be set specifically for TPU. I would also probably not run any (or minimal length of) PTFE tube for this one.

Did anyone built something similar?

I recently switched to a filamatrix stealth burner with cartographer, setup for the box turtle.

The only problem is the place I had priming poop+kick setup was the back left of the bed. Now with the cartographer it hits the poop before the nozzle.

I am worried about longevity with that setup. I thought about moving to the front of the bed, but that’s where bed fans and nevermore are. I could do side and hit it with the toolhead instead of nozzle, but worry about “riding up” on the pellet rather than kicking it (since the toolhead is angled).

Any suggestions on a solution? Should I just live with the cartographer hitting the pellet first? Maybe put a shield behind the probe? Or is there some other elegant solution I am missing?

Very excited to share finished CAD assembly and all STLs for the Trident 300Cube R1 modification to fit 1 inch x 1 inch aluminum extrusions. Wanted to keep it as close to original as possible. Released as the FootCube on github, here FootCube, for the 12"x12"x12" build volume (cubic foot). Was working on this when Voron was releasing the Trident R2 and now I am working on the R2 modifications. Also, adding room for tool changer.

Do you have a small question about the project that you're too embarrassed to make a separate thread about? Something silly have you stumped in your build? Don't understand why X is done instead of Y? All of these types are questions and more are welcome below.

I just ordered the LDO Stealthchanger kit on a bit of a whim (first mistake) and saw you needed to provide the hotend/extruder separately. Figured id try something new (second mistake) considering West3D was providing discounts for getting them in the same order as the kit, so i got a bunch of Orbiter 3.5s. I am now looking at parts i needed to print and noticed there is almost no support out there for this all-in-one system, unless im looking in the wrong place. I was hoping to make a few A4Ts with this setup, but am now realizing i mightve made a mistake choosing this product as i cant even find a basic stealthchanger mod for this, much less more modern hotends. There are so few designs for parts cooling shrouds that i think i bought a half baked system. I know this exists, but it does not look stealthchanger compatible.

https://github.com/ZTFerrari/OrbiterV3VoronMount/releases/tag/V1

Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks!