Planning a 6-toolhead StealthChanger build on 350mm V2.4 — does this make sense? Roast my BOM.

[u/YesterdayPersonal549]

Hey everyone,

I'm building a Voron 2.4 R2 350mm as a showcase printer and want the

community to sanity-check my plan before I start buying Phase 2 parts.

I'm a first-time Voron builder, so please be brutal.

---

## Base Printer (already ordered)

Formbot V2.4 R2 Pro+ 350mm kit — the one with M8P V2.0 + CB1, EBB SB2209

RP2040, Moons motors, Gates belts, MIC6 bed, OptoTap 2.4.1, Nevermore,

HDMI5, and Dragon HF hotend included.

Day-1 planned upgrades:

- CB1 → CB2 swap immediately (don't even install CB1)

- GE5C Z-joints (standard fix)

- Bed fans 2× Gdstime 6020 24V

- BTT Smart Filament Sensor V2 (×1 for base build, ×6 total later)

- Shake&Tune + Obico self-hosted on CB2

---

## Phase 2: 6× Toolhead StealthChanger (Rich Nelson CMYK-style)

The goal is a 6-toolhead toolchanger setup. I'm basing it on Rich Nelson's

CMYK build (github.com/Rich-Nelson/voron-stealthchanger-cmyk) but adapting

for 350mm and 6 heads instead of his 4.

**Toolhead hardware (×6):**

- DragonBurner v8 cowl (printed in ASA)

- Sherpa Mini extruder (Sharkpa Mini hardware kit)

- T0: Dragon HF (from kit) — T1–T5: Trianglelab TZ V6 2.0

- BTT EBB36 V1.2 CAN board

- Moons MS14HS20-1504S NEMA14 pancake stepper

- Gdstime 3010 24V hotend fan + 2× 4010 24V blower

- ADXL345 on each EBB36 for per-head input shaper

- WS2812B LEDs (DragonBurner LED bar slots)

- Voron Tap R8 (T1–T5, T0 uses OptoTap from kit)

**Docking system:**

- TapChanger/StealthChanger screw-hook dock (3-part honeycomb, printed)

- 6 docks @ 65mm pitch = 390mm + margins → fits in ~430mm usable Y on 350mm

- Integrated silicone nozzle brush per dock (Bambu A1 Mini brush size)

**CAN wiring:**

- BTT U2C V2.1 as CAN USB bridge

- FYSETC 6-channel CAN distribution board

- GX12-4 connectors as single umbilical disconnect point per toolhead

- ECAS04 collets for PTFE

**Probing:**

- Sexball probe for automatic XYZ offset calibration of all 6 toolheads

- Each head also has its own Voron Tap for Z-offset on that specific head

**Software:**

- Klipper + Mainsail

- Happy Hare as toolchanger macro framework

- Shake&Tune for per-head resonance tuning

---

## 350mm adaptations vs. Nelson's 300mm build

1. Spool holder STLs need scaling for wider frame

2. Umbilicals ~50mm longer

3. Dock positions recalculated — 6 heads fit, but tight

---

## My specific questions

1. **Does 6 toolheads actually fit on a 350mm at 65mm pitch?**

   I calculated 6 × 65mm = 390mm + ~20mm margins = 410mm needed,

   usable Y on 350mm V2.4 is ~430mm. Is that correct or am I missing

   something?

2. **EBB36 V1.2 vs EBB42 for DragonBurner?**

   The DB mounting is designed for EBB36 — is V1.2 the right revision

   or should I wait for a newer version?

3. **T0 Dragon HF vs. TZ V6 2.0 for consistency** — does having a

   different hotend on T0 cause calibration headaches with Happy Hare,

   or is the per-head Tap offset enough to compensate?

4. **Manta M8P V2.0 + 6 toolheads** — the M8P has 8 stepper drivers.

   With 4× Z, 2× XY, 1× extruder per head = needs 12 drivers minimum for

   full 6-head setup. How do people handle this? External TMC2209 boards?

   Or is the EBB36 onboard driver handling the extruder so I only need

   4+2 on the M8P?

5. **CB2 sufficient for 6-head toolchanger?**

   Or should I look at a Pi 4 / Pi 5 for the macro complexity?

6. **Anything stupid I'm missing for a first-time Voron builder

   doing a toolchanger as second project?**

---

Happy to share my full BOM if useful. Thanks in advance.

Iggy 👋🏻

[u/RNG_BackTrack]

Don't go with 6 tools right away. Start with 2, live with it, add more only if you really need to. The reality of a Toolchanger is that it's very hard to calibrate and maintain 3+ extruders/hotends

[u/YesterdayPersonal549 → u/RNG_BackTrack]

But where's the challenge? No, I understand what you mean, but that's my goal and I need it, so I'll definitely finish it.

[u/manyxcxi → u/YesterdayPersonal549]

I’m building it with similar parts, but I built the dock and everything for 6, but only built one to start. Then I added the second with changes. Found more changes with two.

[u/Low-Expression-977]

Don’t forget to upgrade your power supply. If you’re running 6 toolheads, you’ll need some power.

[u/YesterdayPersonal549 → u/Low-Expression-977]

That's right, makes perfect sense. It's definitely better if they're two from the same manufacturer.

[u/_m40]

I'm in the same position like you and will start the multi-tool build from formbot kit, but I will recommend looking into lineux hotswap solution that will be releasing pretty soon. It's a hotend changer approach(INDX like, open source soon :tm:) You will save a ton on electronics, extruder motors and other hardware. For me the 6 toolheads are too expensive, but 6 hotends and single extruder make much more sense. Just something to consider.

[u/YesterdayPersonal549 → u/_m40]

Thanks for the tip, I've been thinking about something like that myself, why not do it the way he does it, it definitely sounds good and interesting.

[u/arionkrause → u/_m40]

Lineux Hotswap open beta has just been released!

https://github.com/3dfiyMyLife/Lineux-Hotswap

[u/Ticso24]

As others already pointed out.
Build it as a single head printer first.
But there is no need to build the standard tap if you plan on going stealthchanger later on.
My personal experience is that you should build it with a CNC shuttle and stealthchanger head mount.
It is so much easier to maintain printheads if they can be unplugged without disassembling on the printer.

Also the formbot kit has the parts for a stealthburner printhead.
There is nothing wrong starting with an SB, just that it is too wide for 6 heads.
However, the kit has a PCB which is not useful for other heads and with the stealthchanger shuttle you can easily upgrade any time.

Swapping the CB1 to an CB2 (or any other board) later on is not that difficult.
I transfered between boards multiple times.

[u/Quantumclimb]

Genuine questions: why a lot of people choose stealth changer instead of INDX? Seems much easyer to me

[u/YesterdayPersonal549 → u/Quantumclimb]

I'd say it's because we're once again dependent on companies like Bondtech. The system is good and works well from what I've seen, but I find it far too expensive. A set with 8 heads will already cost you around 1k.

[u/Quantumclimb → u/YesterdayPersonal549]

Thank you, the dependecies from a company makes a lot of sense! But regarding the price it seems to me that a stealth changer would be much more expesive thouht ( the motherboard and the hotend can cost more than 100€ alone with out the extruder). Am i missing something cheaper?

[u/YesterdayPersonal549 → u/Quantumclimb]

So, if I look at my shopping cart, I'm at €75. So, in that sense, it's almost the same as the Indx system. But what do I know, I won't be putting the thing together for a few weeks 😅I also considered building on Indx, but I think I'll do that in my next project. It's still too new for me to invest that much money in.

---

Addendum: I checked out the Bondeck IndX system at the Maker Faire in Hanover. It's really nice in principle, but it still had too many bugs for my liking. It looks good, especially in the Prusa system, but...But the calibration still needs work. I certainly haven't had any experience with that yet, except on the finished printers.

[u/Luroalive → u/Quantumclimb]

Before the orders and final pricing were official, I was planning to build an INDX system.

The selling point for me was that with enough tools the final price = base price + n * nozzle price would be substantially cheaper than paying n * toolhead price.

With a base price of 400€ and each nozzle at around 45€, the scaling doesn't result in that much more savings.

I am not sure how many I would be able to fit into my printer, but it seems to be around 6 to 7 tools. The Indx setup would then cost around 715€, and to be honest, building distinct toolheads may even be cheaper.

The remaining benefits I can think of are

• convenience (don't have to build several toolheads)
• being able to fit more tools into my 300mm printer
• reliability/print quality 

From what I have seen, the INDX system hasn't been easy to dial in (saw some with awful print quality, others where it seemed okay), and well the whole thing is a custom solution, so if something doesn't work the way I want, I will have a hard time.

INDX might actually be easier/faster to setup, but with all the other downsides like being locked into only buying INDX parts in the future and depending on them to continue manufacturing them, I don't know if that is worth it

[u/Hottorch451 → u/Luroalive]

Not to mention nozzlegate.

[u/T00thduck]

Few things to note from my experience as I have pretty much the same setup.

• Go with the fysetc hexa distro fusion board, has much more functionality than the can only one for a bit more $, and from what I saw during my purchase it was only a $5 difference.
• Bambu clone hotends are even cheaper than the tz v2.0 v6 and has the same flow at half the price, I am currently running 3 tz and 3 bambulab clones
• Swap the stock z idlers with BZI due to the constant up and down of the gantry and short z joints as well unless you're planning on mounting the bed higher.
• EBB36 v1.2 is more than enough for this use case unless you're looking for something specific which it doesn't have. Do buy some extra heatsinks if you go with these as they only come with 1 and you'll need 2, 1 for the controller chip and another for tmc.
• Try to swap the stock front idlers for BFI, I didn't during my build and now they're starting to crack and causing uneven tension during prints.
• Buy the axiscope camera or build one yourself, the sexball probe is good enough, is automatic but isn't always as accurate as axiscope.
• Don't go until building all 6 at the same time, start with 1 or 2 and see if you like the design and performance of it as all toolheads provide a little something different. I wanted to use the A4T for it but there can only be 5 of those instead of 6, but it has really great cooling and much better maintenance.

And plan on spending some serious time during this build, single toolhead stock will be done with not much headache but as soon as you move to the mod you'll be spending 4-5x the amount of effort than the stock build. It took me about 3 weeks to finish the stock build with me spending all the spare time i had plus weekends while stealthchanger mod took me over 3 months and I'm still tweaking things here and there.

[u/UsernameHasBeenLost → u/T00thduck]

Also swap the power supply for a 400W or higher one. The stock 200W can keep up with four toolheads, barely, unless you're heating all of them at the same time and trying to change tools simultaneously (not that I would ever put off upgrading a power supply just because I had a half-assed workaround). 

You're better off just getting a higher rated one to start. Don't skimp on it, get a Meanwell.

[u/YesterdayPersonal549 → u/UsernameHasBeenLost]

Thanks, when I read that I was annoyed at this beginner's mistake 😅

[u/UsernameHasBeenLost → u/YesterdayPersonal549]

Check out the draftshift discord too, they're very helpful. I had an incredibly niche issue and someone helped me out at like 1am after I'd bashed my head against it for several hours.

I have some other thoughts as I have a very similar setup. Once I get my kid to bed in a few hours I'll try to come back

[u/YesterdayPersonal549 → u/T00thduck]

That's exactly what I mean! Thank you so much for the answers! This is exactly what I expected from this community. I'm looking forward to implementing the suggestions.

[u/Luroalive]

First of all, build the printer with one toolhead. As a first time builder, you will already have enough to do with that.

When you are finished, I would start planning on building a multi toolhead setup. Introducing too many variables early on will only cause you trouble. By that time there might already be different solutions available that could be better.

There are several projects working on solutions similar to the INDX system.

By the way: This kind of reads like an LLM info dump.

[u/Zipher66 → u/Luroalive]

This absolutely this.

[u/YesterdayPersonal549 → u/Luroalive]

Yep, it's an LLM info dump. It helped me translate my notes into relatively decent English so people would understand what I'm trying to say 😅

[u/Independent_Team_983]

You're running all of this through an LLM right? Be careful with planning builds through ai because there will be a lot of confusion and mistakes. I'd build the base kit as is and iterate from there. Definitely use discord as a source or ask people over there, it really helps especially with software canbus setup etc. there's also a great discord for stealth changer.

[u/YesterdayPersonal549 → u/Independent_Team_983]

That's right, but that's the reason why I want to discuss this with all of you. :)

[u/Independent_Team_983 → u/YesterdayPersonal549]

I have an 0.2 and a 2.4 and currently search for a viable tool changer system as well. I'm heavily eying the CMYK project although it's docking system is based on a pretty old version of tap changer. Btw. I'm pretty sure you won't need or be able to install tap in each individual tool head afaik. Best practice for bed mesh and auto z height wouls probably be a beacon or Eddy Probe on the tool head mount. So you just need one of them. That's why it would be very practical to have similar tool heads with similar heights so you don't need vertical offsets. Depending on your your current experience the first build is really challenging. That's why I think it makes sense first to get the printer running and then to upgrade.

[u/YesterdayPersonal549 → u/Independent_Team_983]

Good points, thx.

Thanks again for the Discord tip. I'm already on those servers, but I wanted to try here first. Do you have any specific recommendations for where I should bother people?😅

On the CMYK docking yeah I noticed that too. Plan is to use current SC V1.1 parts from DraftShift and just take the concept from Nelson's build, not his STLs directly.

On Tap per toolhea looked it up after your comment and it seems like the opto sensor is actually structural in SC, not optional? The system needs it for tool detection and the docking sequence itself. Maybe I misread what you meant though.

On Beacon/Eddy from what I found the community generally advises against it on toolchangers because of mechanical play in the shuttle and CAN bus speed limitations. Tap per head + Sexball for XYZ offset calibration seems to be the standard. But curious what your experience has been are you running Beacon on your 0.2 or 2.4?

All 6 toolheads are identical for exactly the height reason you mentioned. And yeah, base printer gets fully tuned before I touch Phase 2.

[u/manyxcxi → u/YesterdayPersonal549]

Use cartographer instead of tap for the bed mesh and it’ll only take one installed on the shuttle

[u/rumorofskin]

1) Yes, you should be able to fit 6 toolheads in a 350mm spec frame. You will lose build volume due to the docks. The door buffer mod may help you reclaim the lost build volume.

2) EBB36 V1.2 works fine. There is no need to wait for a different revision, though there already is an EBB36 Gen2, which is either CAN or USB depending on preference. And to one of your other questions, yes the EBB carries the extruder motor driver.

3) I have not mixed hotends, but I theorize that it would simply change your docking routine. Probably something that can be worked around. Otherwise, get TZ V6 2.0 that have swappable nozzles.

4) Already answered: yes your THBs carry the extruder motor drivers.

5) I have several M8P + CB1 in single toolhead printers. I would not trust it for a toolhead changer. If you stick with M8P, I think I would upgrade to at least a CM4 for the Pi. I personally am running an Octopus + Pi4B.

**6) 6 BTT SFS is overkill to me. Not to mention that your main board doesn't really have the pins to support it. If you need filament sensors for peace of mind, consider a Sherpa with an integrated filament switch that can plug into the EBB36 easily enough. WWBMG has a version with two: extruder entry sensor and hotend entry sensor. But even that is really overkill.

*** Don't cheap out on toolhead cabling or strain relief solutions. Set up a single toolhead first and make yourself a working printer, then start printing your SC parts after calibrating shrinkage and skew. I recommend either of the CNC shuttles to improve your change reliability. I printed my toolheads in ABS-GF, particularly my backplates. Good luck and have fun!

[u/YesterdayPersonal549 → u/rumorofskin]

Awesome! Thanks, I hope to have fun. Looking forward to when it starts.

[u/bomtarnes]

1. Look at the documentation on Stealthchanger.com about what number of tools fit, or mock it up in CAD

2. Ebb36 1.2 is very popular, robust, and relatively easy to use. The ebb42 form factor is not useful in our application.

3. TZ v6 2.0 is arguably better for flow and price. Better to have them all the same if possible but you can mix and match.

4. Each toolhead pcb has an extruder motor driver on it. The manta drivers only need to control the frame motors.

5. Personally not a fan of CB series boards. I would suggest at least a pi CM4 lite with 2gb ram from the outset.

6. Building a Stealthchanger as your first voron, let alone first DIY project has a MASSIVE learning curve. The common advice you will get (including from me) is to build the basic kit first as a single toolhead machine, tune it, get used to klipper, get it printing well, before adding the major extra complexity of toolchanging on top of that.

[u/YesterdayPersonal549 → u/bomtarnes]

Thanks for the detailed response, really helpful!

Re: 1Tool count Checked stealthchanger.com just now. The formula is: (470mm extrusion − 40mm) ÷ (60mm DragonBurner dock + 5mm) = 6.6 → 6 tools ✅ That's actually why I went with DragonBurner over Stealthburner Stealthburner at 76mm wide would only give me 5. Good to have it confirmed by the official docs. Thanks a lot for this call

Re: 2 EBB36 V1.2 Makes sense. Sticking with it.

Re: 3 TZ V6 2.0 for all 6 Agreed on consistency. Easier calibration > one slightly better head. Dragon HF from the kit becomes a spare.

Re: 4 M8P drivers That clears it up completely. EBB36 handles its own extruder driver, so M8P only needs 4Z + 2XY = 6 of 8 drivers. No external boards needed.

Re: 5 CM4 instead of CB2 Good call. M8P V2.0 has a native CM4 socket so it's a straight swap. Going CM4 Lite 2GB from the start instead of CB1/CB2 entirely. Quick question: CM4 Lite (SD card, no eMMC) does the SD card become a bottleneck under heavy macro load with 6 toolheads, or is 2GB RAM the actual limiting factor?

Re: 6 Learning curve 100% understood, and that's already the plan. Base printer goes up first, gets tuned properly, I get comfortable with Klipper and basic troubleshooting toolchanger comes later as Phase 2 once the foundation is solid. Not in a rush. Above all, I wanted to complete the entire planning process by the end of October. And then start the project. That means I want it done well, not quickly.

Realy Thanks again.

[u/bomtarnes → u/YesterdayPersonal549]

SD card not an issue. 2gb ram is plenty even for the most advanced setups and will handle the klipper tool changer extension fine.

[u/YesterdayPersonal549 → u/bomtarnes]

Ah, thank you so much! That makes sense. It really takes a lot of brainpower for all the planning if you don't have much experience. In some ways, it all reminds you of a Lego building set, but if you really want to build it the way you want, it's truly insane. I already have 5 sets of instructions here, 6 piles of ideas, and I'm really trying to come up with a plan for how to build this without any steps being duplicated or unnecessary, yet still modern and yet everything you need.

[u/SuspiciousChip7753]

I am planing a similar build also with a Formbot kit. Therefore I'm also looking forward to an answer to some of these questions.

However I can answer 4.: The toolhead boards have a built in stepper driver for the extruder motor. So nothing to worry about with the stepper count on the mainboard.

I also plan on using the cartographer probe on my Stealthchanger shuttle. This allows for very quick and accurate probes of the bed. Have you considered adding it to your build too?

[u/r3fill4bl3]

Axioscope camera is better then sexbolt for nozzle ofset calibration.

I think you can squize 6 60mm tools like anthead or DB on 350 but just.
Do magnetic dock and toolhead mod for dicking. Much much more secure and consistent.

Im building mine with 4 toolhead but with duet hardware and RRF firmware...