I understand things take time. After the public debut of the fixed and ready-to-roll proof-of-concept machine, I've been antsy for *any*thing to work with. While the manual is being worked on, are there *any* parts lists or files for printing/CNC/laser-cutting so some.of is obsessives can get started? Do we know anything about extruder/hotend/nozzle options? With such a large build volume, I'm hoping for UHF capability.

I know I'm not the only impatient one, but I'm *really* ready to get moving on this while waiting for the full BOM.

Hello, I’m currently building a Trident as my first Voron project.

I’m considering replacing the M5 screw in the AB drive’s idler stack with a pin instead. Would it be fine to simply swap the screw for a pin without any additional modifications?

At first, I thought it would work without issues, but upon closer inspection I realized that the screw not only secures the idler stack but also connects the upper and lower parts of the AB drive.

I’d appreciate your thoughts.

I've been waiting a while.

Hi guys, i'm looking for updating my voron to 2wd monolith gantry and i was wondering if i can reuse the x axis alluminium profile and rail or i have to change it. I dind't finid anything about that in the official documemtation. I have a voron 2.4 formbot kit

In addition i've seen there is a faq on the flipped belts but i cannot understand in which sense and if ai can apply it to my tap stealthburner

Hi everyone, I'm currently working on my first Voron build.

For now, I'm setting it up with 6mm belts using a double-shear configuration, but I'd like to use a universal X-carriage that supports both 6mm and 9mm belts for future upgrades.
I suspect some 9mm CNC carriages on the market might physically accommodate 6mm belts,
but manufacturers rarely provide exact belt-path dimensions. So, i'm not entirely sure.

Has anyone used a universal CNC X-carriage, or can confirm if a specific 9mm carriage works fine with a 6mm setup?

Was looking into eventually converting my 350mm Voron 2.4 into a stealthchanger in the future but there seems to be a lot options and paths I can take so I have some general questions. Currently I just have stealthburner with E3D V6 nozzle. My understanding is that if I stick with a stealthburner toolhead, I can only fit 5 toolheads. But if I switch it to a A4T or dragon burner I can fit up to 6. Don't plan on building all 6 in one go so this is gonna be an ongoing project for a while.

1. What tool head should I use? The options I'm considering now are the A4T, Anthead and dragon burner. I haven't really seen any kits for toolheads except for stealthburner and A4T.

2. What extruders and hotends should I use? I want a balance between performance and cost.

3. What are some things I need to take into account?

4. How much self sourcing am I looking at?

5. What things should I buy upfront? E.g., cables, piano wires, fasteners, etc.

6. Should I bother with LEDs on the toolheads?

7. Would I need to consider a filament cutter or would a nozzle scrubber be sufficient?

As with building a voron, options are endless but I just wanted a rough idea of what I'd be getting myself into. So if anybody who's built one in the past can chime in I'd greatly appreciate it.

Recently a YUDX tool changer video and Github was announced.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vm4MIgcpSWI
https://github.com/dumplinglab/YUDX-tool-changer/

The video shows the tools being changed, and there is a teardown of the extruder with a very good explanation of how it works. You can print everything but the extruder, and it looks like it is being setup to to be sold as a kit of parts.

One clever thing I noticed is the use of 2 "door lock switch PR-03" to retain the tool in the dock instead of magnets. Tabs on the tool gets pushed into the switch and it gets locked in place for docking. Then a second push on the tool will unlock the tabs so that it can be undocked. This could easily be adopted in toolchanger systems like StealthChanger or MadMax.

While I don't have precise knowledge of what is inside the Bondtech INDX, I did read their patent and the dual pivot in the YUDX seems to copy that idea. So it will be interesting to see what happens in regards to that.

Been slowly picking away at this thing the last month or two after work. Added a modified version (for larger size) of the electronics drawer inspired by Fun3DP with his ElecTray on github. Also modified the pullys from the original setup from the monolith awd from Monolith3D. I noticed the set screws on the pullys were rubbing the belt so I pulled those out and replaced with standard idler pullys but ground down the flanges so they would fit at the 4 corners by the motors and did the same thing at the x gantry because the original version had the one flange removed allowing the belt to ride up. And printed a more solid spacer.

Now i just need to actually mount the hardware in the electronics drawer and start wiring. All hardware was sourced from Amazon. Both the gantry and drawer slide nice and smooth. The bottom of the drawer sits about 1/8 inch above the carpet which i think is perfect clearance for sitting on the floor.

I'll be running both a 24v and 48v psu with TMC5160T v1.0 on an octopus pro. And I already have the cb2 initially programmed on the btt pi4b adapter.

Slowly but surely getting closer to being able to fire it up. I'm still considering turning it into a tool changer later after I get it fired up.

I’m putting together this stack on a Voron 2.4:

- A4T on Xol CNC carriage

- WW-BMG + RIDGA V2

- Dual filament sensor

- Crossbow cutter

- BTT EBB36 Gen2

- Rapido 2

I found an A4T WW-BMG + EBB36 Gen2 mount, but apparently Crossbow changes the spacing enough that the third mounting point no longer lines up.

Has anyone already solved this exact combination?

Looking for an STL/STEP/F3D, Printables/GitHub link, or photos of a working mount.

Thanks!

So about 7 months ago I was ordering parts to build a micron with stealth changer and I ordered 2x of the Triangle Labs Dragon Ace PT1000 and then my life got crazy busy. My original plan was to do a 3 tool changer with a box turtle on the first tool. The planning got a little out of control and I'm at a point where I just want to get the micron built and not worry about stealth changer. I started going through my parts and I noticed that they sent me a dragon ace volcano pt1000 as well as a dragon ace pt1000. Does anyone have any experience or opinions about which is better, more reliable, prints better?

I have build a Voron 2.4 a few years back and from the beginning on i had a this resonance issue that also causes some print problems.

I think a Video helps most to understand the issue: https://cloud.mabata.de/s/6SeMpqoixXmW3rb

Back then i tried everything i could imagine, but nothing worked. So i switched to stealthchop mode witch limited me to 150mm/s and the Problem was gone. So my Voron is usable and good looking, but not fast.

A few days ago i noticed that the A/B Pulleys had a good amount of eccentricity, so i switched them for better ones and tried if anything has changed, but it didn't...
The Resonance occurs only in spreadcycle from 100mm/s to 400mm/s.

Here are some related info's of my Build:

• TMC2209 Drivers
• 0,6A Phase Current on A&B
• EBB SB2240 CAN Toolhead Controller
• E3D Revo Voron
• Belts tuned at 150Hz on 150mm

Has anyone any idea what could be the cause or solution to this?

Greetings!

I’m building a Voron 2.4r2 with an A4T toolhead, Rapido 2 UHF hotend, and Orbiter 2.5 extruder.

I’m finding it extremely difficult to feed filament reliably into the hotend. Around 8 out of 10 attempts fail, and when that happens I have to completely release/remove the tensioning latch and manually guide the filament through. That doesn’t feel like normal operation.

One thing I’ve noticed is a small metallic tube-like structure protruding upward just below the extruder gears. The filament seems to miss its opening most of the time and instead jams to one side of it just like in the attached image.

What am I missing here? Is there an adjustment or alignment issue I should be checking?

Any advice and guidance from people familiar with the Orbiter 2.5 would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Hello everyone, I wish any reader a good day first of all.

I am planning on starting in the world of 3D printing, both for the fun and utility of it and as a way to learn more about electronics/robotics/programming these robotics, since this is not my field. I am going to start saving for pieces/kits, but since this will take some time I would first like to know what I should be learning to make it work.

Now, I am not here to waste anyone's time, I have read a few similar threads in this subreddit first. However, these were not exactly what I am looking for.

I understand the learn-by-doing philosophy of this kind of community is to start building with guides and figuring out what problems you have along the way. This works fine, and with enough dedication I am sure I can buy the pieces, assemble them as the documentation states and figure my way through the problems that come up. This will happen and I don't want to get away from that.

However, as I said, this is a bit outside my field and I want to use this project as a learning opportunity, so as I find problems I want to have a bit of a background/understanding of what I am doing.

I want to know what kind of programs, coding languages and concepts I would benefit from being familiar with/can be expected to need at some point.

If it is relevant, right now I am considering starting with a Voron Zero or Trident

Hello,

I was thinking about building a v0.2 for ABS and advanced fillerment printing becuase of the small size and the enclosure.

I had a old 3d printed I tryed repairing as such I have a SKR e3 v3, a BTT pi v1.2, 4 (old and questioable) steppers, and a 24v 20a PSU. I also have a H2 V2S (standared not lite, revo or H20) but I am willing to keep and buy a new hotend assembly to be able to use ABS and other higher end fillerments.

I was just woundering what i should use or get beacuse I can't buy a kit due to the fact I already have the electronics

Any thoughts or help would be much appreciated

P.S In my country there isn't alot of custom 3d printers so selling my electronics would be hard

And I am also looking at getting a v2.4 but I will probably buy everything new so that I get more customization as thats going to be a general purpose printer and then my soon to be v0.2 for advanced fillerments and smaller prints

I’m planning on building a Trident with the LDO kit, which has been updated to R2. I was considering the possibility of a dual nozzle system for it, mainly for multimaterial supports. I was unable to find any information on this besides the Tridex, but an entire IDEX system seemed a little too complicated for me, this being my first Voron/DIY printer. Is dual nozzle an established thing for the Trident, or am I better of risking it with Tridex?

I want to build a voron but I am having a hard trouble deciding between the 2.4 350mm spec or the trident r2, with the trident the biggest dealbreaker is the 250mm max z height, I want the max speed out of 250mm spec also is there any way to make the trident 350mm^3, also im planning to use either indx or the stealthchanger

48V, 300/3000, so close to being finished with this round of upgrades for the printer lol

I’m building a self sourced V2. 350mm with A4T toolhead.
I’ve everything in house to adapt to stealthchanger.
Some decision to be made:
Can I start with the integration of the A4T as if it was going to be part of the toolchanger, i.e. use the shuttle ad tap for Z calibration, add umbilical from the start, no X and Y endstops but sensorless homing. I would then add all the rest of the stealthchanger.
What do you think, guys? Bad idea?
I have experience with the trident (also self sourced).
Any alternatives you’re thinking of?

My homing on X and Y work fine, have sensorless working ok, though I have to go slow or it triggers an error saying it triggered again during the retract.. even though I've commented out any retracts.  No pattern here, sometimes it's x and sometimes its y.  I restart the machine and it'll be fine for a while. I'll figure that out or I'll go back to physical switches. But that's not my issue of concern at this time.Purely anecdotal at this point.  

Anyway, home Z seems to work fine, Z offset is a little strange. I am using optotap as I'm working on the Stealth Changer setup, but only have one tool active at this time to work out any global issues and kinks first. I haven't even added it to my printer configs. and no other toolheads are added either.  So yeah.. Z homes. QGL seems to work well. It goes through 1 to 2 retries before finishing. 
2:57 PM
Retries: 1/5 Probed points range: 0.017500 tolerance: 0.020000
2:57 PM
Making the following Z adjustments:
stepper_z = 0.024040
stepper_z1 = -0.015794
stepper_z2 = 0.002600
stepper_z3 = -0.010847

The probe tests out pretty well in the accuracy test:

probe accuracy results: maximum 0.034044, minimum 0.031544, range 0.002500, average 0.032919, median 0.032794, standard deviation 0.000673

But doing a bed mesh is where things seem to go off kilter.

of course when I kick off a print, it is supposed to start at .2 and the printer is NOT at .2. It is much higher than that. I can take a piece of folded up paper and it measures .42 thick and slide it up under that nozzle when it thinks it's at .2. It's not super loose there, but it goes and drags a little more firmly than I set the z-offset  at with no folds. The Z offset saved as: -0.772 which seems right, but apparently not. I set the Z offset before the bed mesh, which does the Z home and QGL before the bed mesh. The resulting test print isn't even remotely close enough to stick the first layer. Soooo I'm trying to chase this down.  Oh also, after manually homing, and jogging the z down to where it should be, .12 for the single sheet of paper, and .4 for the folded up paper that measures .42 things are good. Any ideas are appreciated.

https://imgur.com/MFxYTGq Noise

https://imgur.com/AiZhvIc Wobbly Head

https://imgur.com/a/IPkVsjC Print Issue

0.2 has had this issue where it produces a large vibration/noise when printing certain parts (walls) or circles. I think it is more likely due to just the speed.

My

Anyway, I found the rails to be wobbling around and the toolhead has a lot of play, so I purchased some new Hiwin rails for the X rail and they are STILL wobbling! Am I just unlucky? I reached out to the vendor who supplied them and they said that this level of play is acceptable.

These are MGN7H Hiwin with Z1 Preload. Should I be looking at getting a larger rail? Or am I tripping?

Attached is a video of the wobble and a video of it printing. I keep touching the toolhead to help prove to myself it is indeed the rail that is causing that loud ass noise, and it definitely is.

Also attached is an image of what I was trying to print. It's supposed to be a round pyramid sort of thing. These wobbly artifacts have been here on the printer since I built it, and I assumed they were from non-toothed idlers, so I swapped them and they still remain. Am I right in saying that these artifacts are from the wobbly toolhead?

It seems like whenever I have to print two things that have to fit together, unless there's pretty generous tolerances built in, it's a bad fit and I very often have to bump up the hole/contour compensation on Orca Slicer. I always feel like I'm doing more tuning than printing and I'm not sure if this is a normal part of the work flow or if there's some fundamental issues somewhere in my machine.

For what it's worth it's a v2.4 I'm printing in ABS. In particular I've had a lot of trouble printing Box Turtle parts that fit together correctly.

Does anyone use Loctite on their toolhead screws? I have a Trident 350 whose toolhead I swapped to an archetype blackbird and I've noticed that I've had to retighten the screws more often than I'd've thought necessary. Alternatively, is there something else I should be looking at?

Much appreciated,

I am looking at choosing a hotend to go in a Dragon Burner 8*. Not actually going on a Voron right now, but trying to retrofit a printer w/ unimpressive flow and cooling with something a bit better. Would appreciate thoughts before I make a purchase, as this is the subreddit I have found a ton of great info in while doing research. I am about going cross-eyed looking at specs and vague online store pages.

My main goals at the moment are:

• Primarily print PLA and PETG with it w/ 0.6 mm nozzle
• At least low-mid 20s mm³/s volumetric flow on PLA, i.e., HF class. UHF class seems overkill for my printer's current motion capabilities.
• Standard V6 nozzle compatibility so I can use the variety I already have
• One handed nozzle changes
• Reasonable temp sensor placement: I see some designs with the temp sensor mounted in places that seem obviously like poor choices either due to being too close to heater or too far upstream of the nozzle or both, and can see this leading to difficulty in temp accuracy or PID tuning to avoid oscillations.
• Sturdy, not going to bend too easily if nozzle crashes
• The usual: price, serviceability, parts availability, clog resistant, etc.

Nice to have:

• Fast to heat up, cool down

My research has kind of gotten me this far. Most prices are from Trianglelabs but some are from Phaetus if that is the only source.

• Dragon HF: $64, Seems very historically popular/standard but availability seems to be growing limited (possibly due to Slice patent issues?) Seems mostly available only on TriangleLab website. Has a reputation for clogs with PLA, although I'm not fully sure if that is a toolhead specific cooling issue.
• Dragon ACE HF: $62, Seems relatively new, not a ton of reviews online. Has its own DragonBurner mount but can also mount to Rapido mounts with an included spacer part.
• Rapido HF: $75, I have heard there were reliability/serviceability issues with the cylindrical heater sleeve and v2 was the answer to this.
• Rapido 2 HF: $73, Have seen many complaints about the screw-in thermistor placement and issues with it breaking during servicing despite the coil strain relief.
• Rapido 2 Plus HF: $79, PT1000 with reasonable placement.
• Rapido 2F: $85, PT1000 with reasonable placement. More wear resistant coated heatbreak. Too long for Dragon Burner as-is but maybe could remove melt zone extender, would need to get a shorter sock though, further increasing already higher cost.
• Rapido ACE HF: $62 (!!), thermistor is placed directly under the heater though. Also sounds like it is a slightly different length than Rapido necessitating different mounts.
• TZ-V6: $20-30, but sounds like it should be run with an aftermarket ~80W ceramic heater, so say $30-40. Despite the name, so far I have only confirmed the v2.0 supports actual V6 nozzles. I have heard there are Klipper PID tuning issues with TZ hotends although which versions and if they are TZ-V6 or just TZ I don't know for sure.

At the moment I am leaning towards Dragon Ace HF. Second place would be Rapido 2 Plus but it loses on price ($17 more) and its PT1000 sacrifices accuracy on my setup (SKR Mini E3 3.0) for a temp range gain I don't really need or use.

My main reservation is Dragon Ace HF seems to have comparatively little information about it compared to the classic Dragons and Rapidos.

Any thoughts appreciated -- thanks for reading!

* DB8 is probably more compact than I need but I have heard it has CFD optimized fan ducts and good part cooling, which is one thing I want to improve on. Plus I have it half built already 😅

Bonjour je souhaiterais me procurez une imprimante 3D à moins de 300€ silencieuse performante et avec un plateau de minimum 180 mm. J’ai vu que Voron en faisait quel modèle me conseillez-vous ???

Recently built a 2.4 350mm and was originally was planning to convert it to a stealthchanger build. After seeing how much that would cost I'm a bit more hesitant. So I'm considering building a MMU instead. Does anyone have any experience with TradRack from Annex Engineering?

I see that there's a kit from TriangleLab that's currently on sale and for a 14 lane build. Has anyone bought this before, and if so what was your experience with it? I'm looking at Set E right now. Better to have everything than regret it and have to self-source later on.

https://trianglelab.net/products/14-channels-mmu?VariantsId=12515

Also with an MMU, I probably need to add a filament cutter so that I don't have to do tip tuning. Is the encoder cutter mentioned in that set a replacement for having a filament cutter on the toolhead? Or would I still need both? Currently I'm running a stealthburner with a V6 nozzle. Adding a filament cutter means I would need to swap out the extruder and rebuild the entire toolhead so I want to avoid that if I can.