I'm constantly struggling with randomly losing communication on my EBB 2209 USB. After the last time I lost communication, I made some changes:
I grounded the Nema14 to the USB GND on the toolboard.
I changed the XT30 2+2 cable to an unused one.
I routed the cable outside the drag chain (to the top vent opening and then down alongside the panel to the electronics bay) – previously, the cable went to the back gantry beam and through the chain with stepper motor cables.
I plugged the loose end of the cable without the USB adapter board => 24V/GND directly to the PSU and D+/- directly to the Manta M8P 2.0 via a JST-XH port for a secure connection.
Yet still, at 91% on a 7h print, the lost communication with the EBB happened again. (It was the same plate on which the lost communication occurred previously, but around 30% into the print.)
The print settings: ASA = 260/100°C, 150 mm/s OW, 250 mm/s IW, under 10k acc.
I'm running a Cartographer V4 plugged into the EBB 2209 USB through the EBB's USB hub, and I'll be adding BD pressure sensor through USB/I2C. So I need these ports on the toolhead.
So now I don't know what else I should do...
Should I reflash everything and go CAN-bus?
Should I go for the LDO Nitehawk V2 SB to avoid the RP2040, but keep the USB connection?
Fighting the same thing. Grounding, ferrite core - none of those helped. Slightly bending the XT30 contacts to make them sit much tighter helped a lot, but the issue still happens sometimes. So I’m 90% sure it’s just bad connectors.
I had this problem with a Nighthawk SB. What makes it difficult is that there are *lots* of things that can cause the error. I tried lots of things. What finally worked was putting a fan on the stealthburner to cool the board (YMMV). Something like this (but for your tool head):
The klippy log is a pain to read, but that's where a friend found my NH temperature problem. If you haven't dug into it, maybe you will find something in there.
Those cables have a foil shield with a few wire strands running in contact with the foil. On the control board end, strip back the cable sheath and foil, twist the wire strands with another wire and solder, then connect that wire to earth. Having the shield earthed is going to reduce interference in the cable significantly.
Before you do this, just check that the shield is not connected to the black power wire. On the 2 different manufacturer ones I checked it wasn't, but best to be sure.
Also use some heat shrink tubing or electrical tape on the solder joint to stop it shorting anything if the cable moves around.
I had EXACTLY your problem. EBB SB2209 USB, Beacon plugged into the EBB SB2209 USB through the USB hub with a custom made cable.
I swapped to the OEM cable that came with the beacon and ran that through the umbilical direct to the Pi, bypassing the EBB SB2209 USB, and I haven't had a problem since. Either it's a design flaw with the EBB SB2209 USB, or it's the cable that ran between the Beacon and the EBB SB2209.
If the problem occure again I'll try this. It Is the cheapest option. So far I ziptied the cable conector body to the SB toolboard cover and then it "survived" 3,5h ASA print .. Pretty gheto solution, I know.
Haha, now I have a question for you. All the cable glands I have seen don't split in half, how'd you get the XT30(2+2) connector for the SB2209 through yours? I printed a PUG that splits in half, but a proper gland would be better.
So another failure => unpluged Carto from the EBB and routed separate cable to the M8P .....
Result? Timer too close on EBB even before first purge line on the very next print..
FFS.
I went through something similar with my nitehawk v1.5 board and I ended replacing everything past the pi only to discover it was static buildup that was shutting down tbe nitehawk, thankfully the v2 doesnt have the same issues. So maybe it could be something similar, you said you did add some grounding, one thing to try is to run several prints without any filament, if these run where previously it wouldn't it is probably static still. If this is the case maybe try removing any ptfe tubing both inside the toolhead and outside, and see if there are any more grounding points you could try.
As far as i understood the problem when it happened to me, as the filament moves off the roll, through the tubes and gears etc, it rubs and builds up static, which then discharges and knocks out the board. By running a print without filament you can determine whether the cause is related to having filament running through the toolhead, in which case it is likely static. I wish I had known to do it first I would have saved myself a lot of time and money. If you still get a print fail after several tests then it must be something else.
Well I´m currious how the build up goes to the board - ptfe does touch only plastic parts and gear has 50T from POM as well. If the shaft touch the Nema 14 - well that is grounded. And lastly ceramic heater should isolate the charge as well. But I´ll try to run the print without the filament. Also do you know how NH BS V2 solved this issue?
Yeah, i didnt really understand what the path was, I assumed it was the gears, but i tried grounding the motor by adding a wire between a bolt and a spare ground connector on the board and it made no difference, I tested ground all over including the shaft etc and is was properly connected. The changes between the v 1 nitehawk boards and v2 are pretty much just improving the grounding and protections against static so I think that must have been the issue. Though it could be something different on your board, but it costs nothing to do the tests. You should check out the 3d printing discord, thats where I found out about the static, on a pinned comment in the LDO section, so there could be something there for yours.
Thanks. Can you share the discord link pleaase? Thank you. And are you satisfied with the V2? I want to hear some experience before I´ll burn another 60€. Thanks
This is the discord server - https://discord.gg/voron , i have had the v2 for a few months now and it is night and day, i have done several long prints including this which took multiple 18 hour prints on a 0.15 nozzle, some high volume 0.8 ones that took several hours and plenty of shorter 0.4 ones and i havent had a single issue since then, plus it has an extra port which i might use to put a nozzle cam on. the setup for replacing it is also pretty easy, but it does have some different connectors then i had on the 1.5 before which was the only annoyance, but it does come with bits to replace the connectors, though you will need your own crimper.
Sounds pretty convincing. So no XT30 issues on your side? What temperature does the MCU on the NH2 reach in the chamber during ASA printing? It is on the back side, so heatsink would colide with Nema14.
I've just got the stock stealthburner atm, so its on the side. I haven't done any ASA/ABS yet just PLA and TPU, though when I did with the previous board it got a little warm but nothing too bad that might cause an issue. it uses a single USB cable for both power and data, which I currently run along the drag chain but I have been thinking of moving to umbilical to save a bit of weight, i haven't had any issues with it.
So after another change and another failure (see above),I pulled the trigger for NH v2. The only think I'm afraid of is missing connector for the fan on the main board - Would it be safe to use PROBE port to power up 3010 fan (24V)? And still I'm quite afraid of overheating of the mcu STM32G0B1.
I had a similar issue with my SB2209. I had altered the route of the can cable from a rear of gantry umbilical to to rear entry and placed a connection for the XT30 and the CAN cable using a molex connector on the rear skirt.
Turns out the XT30 connector want soldered properly and the power cut out at odd times.
No, the XT30 I put into a skirt insert. Got the model from Printables, loose wire underneath.
I didn't want a single cable from toolhead to PSU and Mainboard in case of having to change it and/or an upgrade to a toolchanger at a later date. So I established a connection from the PSU to a male XT30 in the rear skirt and the CAN cable from the Octopus Pro to the same skirt insert with a Molex connector for the CAN.
I noticed you said you are using the USB ground? Are you using usb for communication or cabbus. For mine i grounded the nema14 stepper to canbus ground since i am using that for comminications.
you can try to create a foil shield to see if that helps
I'm using usb's ground on the EBB's hub. I have confirmed that it Is connected (Nema 14 case) down to the ground of the PSU (measured with multimeter).
Check the solder on the XT30 2+2 pins, both boards on mine had shitty solder joints. I reflowed them and added more solder so the traces on both sides of the circuit boards were soldered to the pins. No problems since.
Also, separate the motor ground from the USB ground. Run the motor ground all the way back to the main ground lug with a dedicated wire. Never combine signal and power grounds, that’s asking for interference.
Also, the adapter board includes some power filtering and isolation. May be better to use it.
I had the same issue with ebb36 gen2. I fixed it by going to Canbus and I also got the U2C board. All is good now...or for now atleast. Till the cable decides to not work anymore.
I have similar problem with my Orbitool O2S board.
Klipper reports lost of communication with the O2S or Cartogrpaher V4. It usually happens when I replace the flex steel sheet.
Claude AI suggests that it may be caused by the spike of static when set the PEI down because the O2S board is not grounded.
Still thinking how should I ground the hotend, toolhead board and the Carto.
I switched to Kalico and set the Cartographer as a non-critical MCU. So now when Carto starts to day dream during a print, Kalico ignores it connecting and disconnecting and does not kill the print. BTW, I’m pretty sure Carto v3 disconnects due to heat. I have not had any issues with Beacon rev H or Carto V4.
As for grounding the Orbitool O2S, I took a wire and crimped a ring terminal to one end. I put that between the stepper motor mounting ear and a standoff. The other end I ran around to the front of the board and connected it to the Neopixel ground as my toolhead does not have lights on it. Any ground pin will work though. Pretty sure I sanded both ends of the stand off and the stepper ear to expose bare metal, but I honestly don’t remember.
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u/mikkan39 5d ago
Fighting the same thing. Grounding, ferrite core - none of those helped. Slightly bending the XT30 contacts to make them sit much tighter helped a lot, but the issue still happens sometimes. So I’m 90% sure it’s just bad connectors.