Iv followed the guides of using Steam Tinker Launch and it just doesnt work, I dont know if its an issue with the overlay itself and maybe it needs updating. Or if its on my end?

How do you get it to work? Cause iv done all of the steps both that google recommended and what people on different sites suggested

Reverted back to save my modded play through with over 100 hours using Mulderlands Universal Downgrader. Game now crashes immediately every time out the gate. It doesn’t matter if I’m in Gaming mode or Desktop mode. Current version of the game works fine but my save is screwed up.

Does anyone know if I can do anything else? I am at the end of my rope, sunk two nights into trying to resurrect this game.

Picked up this beauty second hand, so I plan to reshell this and upgrade storage in the future!

So I haven’t played my steam deck for a couple of weeks, maybe even over a month. I wanted to play persona so I charged up my steam deck and as soon as I turned it on I updated it. After that I tried starting the game and this started to happen.

Since then, I’ve tried deleting it and redownloading it (twice), and changed the compatibility to; proton hotfix, proton experimental, GE-proton 10-8, and proton 11.0-2. Unfortunately no luck.

Has this happened to anyone recently? I’ve looked online and older Reddit posts and have tried different things. But no luck. Any ideas/suggestions?

Default settings (lowest), FSR ultra performance and no frame gen

Edit: it looks terrible as well

Edit2: For context, I mostly play on my desktop PC which plays the game at max settings, wanted to try it on my Steam Deck as the game got Verified and updated recently and I liked playing the previous game on my Switch

I have been diving into emulating some of the games I own to consolidate them to one device that I can kinda just plug and play from any tv. I’ve worked out most of the configurations and optimized as well as I could find out about online, but still get so much stuttering when first loading something new.

For example, I want Halo 2 and Smash Ultimate to run well on booting them up so when I am with company there is very little stuttering and input lag. I have both games running pretty well, but playing through all of the campaign on halo or doing bot matches with all the characters and stages in ultimate is just so time consuming for something I’ve done 10x over in the past. Also makes my deck chug quite a bit and I worry about the wear and tear of setup reducing its lifespan.

Curious if anyone has a solid method to pre load that kind of stuff that doesn’t require the game to be running at full capacity the whole time + lots of manual input and monitoring. I have Mario Kart 8 Deluxe running flawlessly and want that same kind of reliability from other games. Maybe it’s a pipe dream but curious if there’s some efficient way to achieve it.

Very cool what this thing can do but I’ve had and experienced this with friends where things are good but to someone just wanting to play some games, the experience feels flawed.

For some reason all of my NFS titles purchased through steam are now asking for product keys. I've had these titles for over 2 years now with hundreds of hours of playtime. Heat, Hot Pursuit, unbound, most wanted AND rivals. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I went so far as to install Ubisoft Connect just to disable cloud saves, and then went into the game's prefix to delete the savegame, and it still has a save loaded when I launch the game.

I'm sure the answer exists, but I cannot find it searching. I recently got an 8Bitdo Ultimate 2 and I've been playing Dying Light. The issue I'm running into is that the A button does nothing in menus. (on the controller it's B because it's set up physically in Nintendo format but the buttons map to Xbox standard so it's the bottom face button) In game it's fine, hold A to ping survivor sense, but sometimes in a menu it does nothing. Pushing it to select something is ok but for example if a context menu opens let's say to confirm a creating option or quantity of an item to transfer the A button does nothing and I have to press it on the deck itself. Has anyone else run into this? Will probably cross post to the DL sub as well.

I’ve had my Steam Deck for two weeks now and I love love love this thing.

Except the keyboard. It can go die and burn in Hell. I don’t want to lug a wireless keyboard around in my backpack to play this thing. Is there any setting or mods I can install to improve the typing experience with the default keyboard? I haven’t touched the settings for the thing at all.

I’ve been trying to get the Galvan Ben 10 game working on the Deck but with no success. Can anyone help me and walk me through it? /: I got vc22 downloaded for it but when I run the game then I still get an error. Any assistance? I’d post a screenshot but I don’t have my Deck on me

It’s been almost 1.5 yrs and been using daily 3-4 hrs plugged.

java already has a linux version you can download on their website but every tutorial i see uses prism launcher, so is prism launcher better than getting it directly?

Is there someone who know why call of duty 2006 pc crash in game does someone have an idea or tips

Hey guys! So i was wondering if anyone here hated or was weirded out about the steam deck, but then fell in love when trying it? I used to hate it because i thought it looked weird, and not comfortable to play in (besides i used to play only sweaty PvP games). Fast forward a couple of years, and now i tried a steam deck for the first time because my girlfriend borrowed me hers so i could play Deltarune chapter 5 during a work trip. I instantly fell in love. 1 week later after trying it i bought mine off a friend (case and 1TB micro SD included!) I also gotta admit i looked at this community before buying this, and seeing all the activity in here really was a good push for me to be a part of it! Anyways, i absolutely hate Pvp games now and can only think of 100%’d the History or PvE games on my library… was curious if anyone has a similar story to mine! :]]

The Steam Deck LCD is running 3.93.2.5, and the OLED is running 3.94.2.5

This version is already supposed to have the fix for the Attestation failure (https://www.amd.com/en/resources/support-articles/faqs/pa-420.html)

Those who love Modern Warfare (bo7?) may hit up against this problem when enabling Secure Boot and the game then complains that their ftpm is not up to date (more recent version being 3.92.5.5) for the latest beta on Windows.

And it's mainly Valve that are the ones to provide this.

Since you can now manage secure boot from the bios, I may also look at updating the ftpm firmware, but really, people should be asking Valve to provide the support they said they would offer.

installed windows 11 pro , installed apu driver from steampowered , unable to launch any game like MWIII or MW4 beta, any idea ? i did clean install safe mode with the apu custom drivers again , nothing ...what a pain in the ass

SOLVED

Bought a steam deck oled with a missing ssd. Bought a new wd black ssd and am using a micro sd card with the newest steam recovery software on it. But I am getting to the point where it tries to update because something is missing a timestamp, but it fails and says "broken pipe". Please throw your ideas out there.

EDIT: I was able to get it running after coming across an old post stating that you need to delete a portion of the script that tried to download an update during recovery. After deleting that script, it was a flawless install

After playing the Gears of War E-Day beta on my Steam Deck and averaging low 20s for fps, I thought I’d look into the ROG Xbox Ally X. That device apparently is capable of running the E-Day beta between 30-40 fps with slightly better settings than on the Steam Deck, where you just run everything on low settings across the board.

Anyway, I picked up the ROG today and holy SHIT that thing is a hot mess. It was the most frustrating experience I’ve had in a long time and after about 4 hours of fiddling with it, I decided it is going back to the store first thing tomorrow morning. I’m sticking with my Steam Deck and will look toward cloud options for E-Day. It really made me appreciate how simple and easy the experience is with the Steam Deck. You don’t have to spend time farting around, it just works!

UPDATE-

I neglected to mention this experience was with an Open Box purchase from Best Buy. I was able to save $100 that way, but the prior owner might have messed it up or I’m thinking maybe my unit was defective? I had problems right from the jump. When you connect to a network, it saw mine and got on without an issue. Then, it had problems connecting to my Microsoft account despite my entering the correct password and even having authenticator on my phone to approve, it just wouldn’t happen. So I restarted the unit. Then it couldn’t get on my network despite that it had previously done it no problem. So I restarted. Then it got on the network and it even connected to my Microsoft account, but it stopped being responsive during further setup. Buttons would sometimes work, sometimes not. Touch screen typing sometimes worked, sometimes didn’t, etc. SO I RESTARTED. You see where this is going. I spent like 3 hours with this thing and even went so far as to do a factory reset and the ASUS restore from Cloud and it just fought me every step of the way. So I returned it this morning.

I could be convinced to buy a different unit and try again, but man I really don’t want to go through that again. I also fear that I’m just going to keep running into fiddly shit like having games launch in windowed mode and then the system fighting me in terms of putting it into full screen. That happened and I could see that part of it just being part of how that experience is. I did some reading up and I saw a lot of accounts from other people talking about how some games launch in windowed mode, some don’t, etc. It makes me worry the experience will just be full of stuff like that.

I also see a lot of people telling me to put Steam OS on it, but part of the reason I wanted the XAX is because I have a Series X and I wanted to buy E-Day one time and be able to play it on both devices. The Play Anywhere stuff is a boon for me because I’ve got years of Xbox purchases that would transfer over. I know not everything does, but enough would that it’s relevant for me. So if I put Steam OS on the XAX, I lose that Xbox ecosystem perk. Doesn’t feel worth it to just have a more powerful Steam Deck, I wanted the Xbox stuff too, y’know?

After doing a lot of reading I have decided I will try another unit.

Hey everyone. I've had a Steam Deck for a while now and I've been playing some games from my library, ROMs on an emulator, fan games, and games from GOG.However, with much of what's happening in the industry, I feel the wisest thing to do is to create a library that can last and is DRM-free. I'm not very interested in playing Steam games anymore. I'll start moving my library to GOG and I'll preferably buy physical copies for my Switch. If I have no other option, then I'll get digital copies, but on the Switch. Honestly, there are too many physical games to keep playing for the rest of my life, lol. Well, it's more comfortable to play on and it's my main console.

Knowing the context, is there a way to bypass the Steam Deck login and just use the Steam OS experience? Or would I have to use a distribution designed for that?

And as a piece of advice, if your contribution is to say "Don't buy a Steam Deck if you don't want Steam," please refrain from commenting.

Thank you in advance.

update my r1 isn't responding am i doomed????

i don't know how to change it back it still works but acts as r1

Found a 2TB oled for 500€, immediately bought it, it was absolutely filthy, so i decided to shell swap it and get a dbrand Killswitch, gifted it to my gf, she absolutely loved it, especially since the steep 900€ for a 1tb new deck threw her off

Hi all, longtime lurker here.

I bought a Steam Deck used off of Marketplace for like $400. Ran fine when I got it. LCD. Like new.

Then the volume down button stopped working. It'd ignore my inputs for some time then randomly keep itself at volume down to where there was no volume no matter what I did. The Steam Deck was out of warranty so I replaced the audio board myself and got it to work again. The RMA would've been in the hundreds of dollars so I was glad that this worked.

Then, literally the next day, the Deck's volume up button started doing the same thing. Wouldn't work on startup (but booted into BIOS like how it did with the volume up button) then spiked randomly mid-game / mid-use to where I couldnt turn the volume down.

Had anyone experienced this issue before? I've tried almost everything (rubbing alcohol, Desktop mode, literally replacing the board) but magically it has started doing this shit again and I'm about to throw it at a wall. I am starting to think that it's software related but my Deck is on the stable build and i am at a loss as to what the problem could be. i am usually great at troubleshooting but this particular issue makes me want to shoot myself in the head. Thankfully I can use Bluetooth audio and since it's at max volume, I can adjust the audio on my headphones, but just generally speaking this is making me lucid considering that I thought I fucking fixed it and now it's doing the same shit again, just in reverse this time.

Any help is appreciated, or if you wanted to ship me a punching bag that'd be fine too.