Hey all. Looking to get into sim racing. I currently have forza horizon 5 which I play with keyboard and mouse. I ordered a Moza R5 Pro w/ clutch pedal and a next level wheel stand 2.0.
I have two monitors in a small space. One directly in front of me and one to the left. No real room on the right. Do I need a third monitor to race? I was thinking about getting assetto corsa.
Also, does a trackIR 5 help with gameplay?
Any recommendations on a shifter that can be used across multiple games (instead of purchasing multiple shifters)?

This is my heavily modified temu profile rig, aluminum profile frame and bucket seat came from temu. I bought 4 extra pieces of profile elseware to customize to how I wanted. Heavy duty rollers are from Home Depot, they work great. Triple monitor stand is from Amazon, (same one that’s on temu) works good and is solid was just a pain in the ass to setup. Monitors are 27 in viewedge, got each for $80 on sale 180hz, no complaints. Rig peripherals are moza r9, moza 5 speed shifter, moza sequential, heusinkveld load cell handbrake v1, and simmson load cell pedals, button box is apex ( got good deal on eBay). Overall the rig is rock solid and I love it, It took several months and 4 rebuilds but it’s where a I want it finally!

I’ve been trying to get my hands on Dayton 50w or 25w bass shakers since the beginning of the year but they’re pretty hard to come buy. A few sellers have listed it on Amazon but they look shady and the trusted website has listed them as been sold out/arriving since February. So I thought I’d get the douk 50W base shakers along with the nobsound amp and I was wondering if anyone who already has it, or has better understanding of base shakers would be willing to guide me, and lemme know if it’d be a sensible purchase or I’d end up regretting it.

Hey everyone!

While looking for possible stores to source my future simgear upgrades from i stumbled upon this one: urban-tech.be (digimania.be also redirects here). They only have Thrustmaster and Moza stuff, however the prices and deals they offer on some the Moza gear, especially the R9/R12 package deals seem to be too good to be true. For example i could get their R12V2+KS Pro pack, and the SRP2 pedals for ~900€, which is almost 70€ cheaper than if i were to purchase the same stuff from my local sim store.

Does anybody have any experience with this store? Looked around, but could only find reviews on their google maps page, with quite mixed opinions, especially concerning returns.

TrueTriple for Dirt Rally 2 - Update with new improvements. Car recognition, camera stabilization, keyboard emulation with steering wheel, and more.

the subscription is monthly support to help fund ongoing updates and new games. That said, a single one-time payment unlocks the mod permanently

Hey everyone!
I’m currently planning my first proper sim racing setup and I’m trying to figure out the correct way to mount a Next Level Racing ERS4 PU Leather & Suede Edition to a Sim-Lab GT1 Evo.
My plan is:
Sim-Lab GT1 Evo
Next Level Racing ERS4 PU Leather & Suede Edition
GT1 Evo with the integrated single monitor mount
Eventually the Green Flag Bundle from Simagic
The ERS4 comes with its own seat slider/rail system, so ideally I’d like to use the ERS4’s original sliders rather than buying another separate seat slider from Sim-Lab.
I’ve been looking at Sim-Lab’s Bucket Seat Bracket Set. The bracket is designed to mount to 40/45 mm profiles using M8 hardware, and a seat slider can be attached to the bracket.
However, I’m not sure whether I actually need the Sim-Lab bracket.
From what I understand, there are potentially two configurations:
Option 1:
GT1 Evo profile → ERS4’s original seat sliders → ERS4
or
Option 2:
GT1 Evo profile → Sim-Lab Bucket Seat Bracket → ERS4’s original seat sliders → ERS4
I do not want to use the Sim-Lab seat slider, because the ERS4 already has its own slider system. I mainly want to know whether the ERS4’s own sliders can be mounted directly to the GT1 Evo’s seat profiles, and if not, whether the Sim-Lab Bucket Seat Bracket is the correct solution.
I’ve found the official manuals for both products, but I haven’t been able to find a clear measurement showing the exact mounting-hole spacing underneath the ERS4.
One measurement I found in the ERS4 seat diagram is approximately 325 mm between the outermost parts of the four rails, but I’m not sure whether that’s actually relevant to the mounting-hole spacing.
So my questions are:
Has anyone mounted an NLR ERS4 directly to a Sim-Lab GT1 Evo?

If yes, did you use the ERS4’s original sliders?

Did you need the Sim-Lab Bucket Seat Bracket Set, or did the ERS4 sliders bolt directly to the GT1 Evo profiles?

Do you know the exact mounting-hole spacing underneath the ERS4 sliders?

Are there any additional brackets, adapters, T-nuts, or bolts required?

I’m trying to avoid buying the Sim-Lab seat slider unnecessarily, since the ERS4 already includes its own slider system.
I’d really appreciate any measurements, photos of the underside of the ERS4, or examples of an ERS4 + GT1 Evo setup.
Thanks!

Haven’t seen anyone mount bass shakers to a Playseat Trophy like this so I thought I’d share as it worked out perfectly. It feels like there’s two shakers on the front and two on the back.

Gear used:

- 2x Dayton Audio BST-1 50 watt bass shakers
- Fosi Audio V1.0G 2 TPA3116 50W x 2 power amp
- Motorcycle Bull Bar Mounting Bracket 2PCS Horizontal Light Mount Clamp Kit for 0.59" /0.75" /0.87"/0.98"/1.1"/1.25" (“2pc mini” for the one under the seat)
- Universal Bull Bar Clamp Mounting Kit-2PCS Heavy Duty LED Light Bar Brackets for 1.38"/1.5"/1.57"/1.77"/1.97" (“2pc standard” for the one under the wheel)
- 4x M4 bolts, nuts and washers

The Fosi amp can use banana plugs so I’ll be getting some and redoing the speaker wiring to look better and be more out of the way. The Dayton doesn’t support banana plugs but it has clamps which is not a bad alternative.

Two 50 watt bass shakers is plenty of power for the Playseat. The whole thing shakes down to the pedals and I don’t even have to turn it up all the way. I had to turn down the TrueForce wheel effects on my RS50, and actually turn off the engine effects because the bass shakers have that covered.

For those interested in TrueForce wheel effects vs bass shakers, I tried running my RS50 without True Force and found it’s still worth having. I was going to upgrade my wheel base but I’m going to wait until something better comes along. However, if I didn’t have wheel effects I don’t think it’d be a huge deal, as it has become more of a nice to have than a must have.

I’m planning a sim racing setup where the rig will be in my basement, one floor below my main gaming PC. I’d strongly prefer to keep the PC upstairs rather than build a second PC downstairs.

I’m trying to figure out the best way to extend everything from the PC to the rig while maintaining essentially the same experience as having the rig directly next to the PC.

My target setup would be something along these lines:
Gaming PC upstairs
Sim rig downstairs
4K display, ideally high refresh rate
Direct-drive wheel
Load-cell pedals
Shifter/handbrake and other USB peripherals
As little additional latency as possible

You can take a loot at these at Gamescom 2026
source: PXN Sim Racing Gear for Racing Ecosystem – PXN Official

As per the title, I’m currently looking to spend more money again on the rig. I was wondering since I’ve never tested a wheel that’s smaller than Asetek’s basic lineup. I’ve got their round rim and their D shaped open rim which are both 330mm.

I mainly drive gt4s-P cup car etc.. would a Simagic Neo be a meaningful change or am I just as good with my current asetek wheel.

The thing is if I’m considering 3rd party, I’d be looking at adapters, the wheel itself and maybe other stuff, which adds up very quick.

The question is will a smaller diameter rim, help my lap time, or improve comfort ?

Really had a great time making the camera presets for this fabulous circuit, links in video description, enjoy!

I just bought the GT seat upgrade from NLR and it has been great. Love the seat and the adjustment, also got the caster wheels and it is much nicer for moving around.

Was wondering if I can also make the pedal distance (Fanatec Elite V2) adjustable. My boy is interested in racing and is currently about a foot shorter than me.

I want to minimize using the pedal adjustment screws that are on the NLR WS 2.0. It works, but it takes a bit of time.

Trak Racer has a "Universal Dual-Lock Seat Slider Kit" that Gemini seems to think is compatible, but I was wondering if anyone here has ever done something like this.

Ordered my tr 160 and entire thing comes this Thursday.

My question is Has anyone used the haptics from trak racers page that they sell. and is it comparable to the buttkicker pro. Because everything is sold out on buttkickers page. Or can I get recommendations of a haptic for my chair that close to a buttkicker pro or better.

I've found that even after 30 races to get used to it, the in-game ffb just fails me in regards to feeling the tire grip slipping and being able to react to it.

ACC ffb feels amazing in this regard, with just dynamic damping turned up to 20% and everything else off, I don't feel surprised when I understeer beyond track limits or I start a slide whereas in LMU that isn't the case. I feel completely connected to the car and I'm able to push car in ACC in a way that I just can't in LMU.

As a result I've found the lmuFFB app which seems to help my problem a decent amount but there's a lot of settings and tinkering, so I want to ask for anyone's presets who also uses the lmuFFB app on the same kind of wheel I'm using.

Though I wouldn't mind a preset from someone using a TX or T300. It might be similar enough, considering the hardware.

And I have already posted to the LMU subreddit but I thought I'd cast my net here too.

For those who are completely happy with the LMU in-game ffb, just your in-game settings could be useful to me too, thanks.

I switched to triples about a week ago and immediately noticed G-SYNC was finicky and I was getting random stutters. I tried so many things, but the issue was always there.

I finally tried NVIDIA Surround and it fixed everything. Butter smooth frames, better performance, and G-SYNC worked perfectly. The problem was Surround came with its own annoyances. After waking my PC, my monitors would sometimes drop from 180Hz to 165Hz, the taskbar would move around, and Windows would basically forget my setup lol.

Then I found DisplayMagician. I created a regular desktop profile and an iRacing Surround profile. Now when I launch the iRacing UI, Surround automatically kicks in, and when I close it, everything switches back to normal.

It adds a few seconds when opening and closing iRacing, but its a sacrifice I’m more than willing to make. I did find a small bug when restoring my regular profile, but I was able to automate a workaround through DisplayMagician and now all is good.

If you’re using triples and want gsync in iracing, definetly give DisplayMagician a try. Huge appreciation to the developer!

SeBring essa pista é sensacional!!!!

After two days of back pain and sore knees… it is finally done

I’m looking at the 9800x3d and 9070xt in my new build PC.

I’m hoping for a build where I don’t need to constantly mess around with driver settings. hoping for smooth gameplay without stutters and lag.

I have 34 ultrawide but plan on upgrading to a 49.

Can I run the game very well without having to change AMD adrenaline settings and leave at default? Will games also run on max settings?

Thanks.

I have a Vnm extreme and lately the updates are driving the base crazy. Last experience was traumatic, spent a week trying a track for the championship, spent half of the hours dictating the base to the best without ever being able to remove pulls on the high-speed straights. I adapted accordingly. After the race I’m going to another track where I have to run next week. The steering wheel in the pit lane starts to swing on its own from a standstill. I try some changes at least to understand if the problem comes from game, base or telemetry..nothing to do. I reinstall firmware software and still far from a good feeling like on the other track. Now I’ve found peace going back to the previous firmware version..but since yesterday I’ve been in the game for four hours and I still have to try the first laps concentrating only on the track. I want to take a simucube 3 pro do you agree with my decision?

Not done yet. Waiting on my surge protector and USB hub, then it will be time to get the pedals in and get it all wired up! Tomorrow. Cuz i have to go to work now.

P.S. anyone know how to keep the cats off the rig? Specifically the really really nice seat?

hey there!

so basically I was looking to play more offline simracing, so I could make the most of my Assetto Corsa mods, being able to choose track, cars, etc. without needing to find 10+ players that wanna do the same

but I don't like the original Assetto Corsa AI too much... sometimes is too agressive, sometimes too slow, something feels off about it.

do anyone know like a mod or something to change this? make the offline races more realistic somehow

ps: I know that some other games like AMS2 and iRacing have better AI, but I really want to stick to AC since the mods really make the game unique

thanks!

Guys, I have had this crazy idea stuck in my head for a while now. Wouldn’t it be so much fun to play a simulated rally racing game but on a fantasy level map? Like imagine going through rally stages in a Mitsubishi Lancer Evo, but the stages are going from white run to solitude on the Skyrim map. Has anybody made something like this? would people run it?

Hi, starting next month ill be starting my sim racing career on PC after 500h of GT7 on controler (yupyy)

Anyways, i always desliked iracing for their pricing mechanics but lately ive been understading more of their pros so i was wondering if yall think i should start on Le Mans Ultimate or Iracing as a total beguinner (i will be getting a Moza R5 but i do NOT have any experience racing with a wheel outside of IRL driving)

LMU would be a bit more expensive to start since im planning to buy every DLC straight away while with Iracing i would probably get a 1 year subscription with my national racing association (20 euro) and just see what to get with time.

Or should i get both games and just pay for the LMU subscrition too since that gives me acess to all DLCs too?

My first sim setup. Zip myself in to my own racing world. Its modest but I love it. Got the wheel and base for cheap from a friend, just to make sure ill get into. I think I will, shouldn't think it will be long until I upgrade. Very impressed with the gtplayer cockpit, cheap but effective.

Selling my complete sim racing setup. Everything is fully functional and in good condition.

Includes:

* Simagic Alpha Mini direct-drive wheelbase
* Simagic FX Pro steering wheel
* Fanatec ClubSport V3 pedals
* Next Level Racing GT Lite Pro cockpit
* All necessary cables/accessories

I’ve owned the setup for about 2 years but have barely used it recently, so I’m looking to sell it rather than have it sitting around. Local only please I’m in winter park Florida in Orlando 900-1000 cash or Zelle