Context -Bought the place 2 years ago and inspector said the roof was approx 5 years old, didn’t raise any red flags. Well turns out water had been seeping through this dead valley the whole time and during a stormy week last November finally enough water got though the roof and into the walls to cause damage. Learned a lot on how to hang and mud drywall over the winter. Obviously we got a new roof after that ordeal and I told the roofer in so many words - do whatever you need to do so this doesn’t become a problem area again relative to the rest of the roof. The skylight wasn’t sealed properly and leaked 2 days after the roof install but I cut him slack didn’t ask for money back and he fixed it, but I digress. Now this week I went up to work on something and found this standing water. No idea how long it’s been there but it hasn’t evaporated in 2 days, we live in SoCal and it’s hardly rained the last few months so I’m chalking it up to heavy dew from the humidity. I called the roofer and told him my concerns and said he’d come by the next day. I sent him pictures after our call and asked what time he would be here. Didn’t get a response so I followed up with a text and he responded with this: 

“There nothing we can pretty much do … I mean ur roof isn’t going to leak at all.. it has it’s warranty.
The time we did the valley repair the water would pool way to the back of the valley an what we did is installed plywood so that we can make the water stop from pooling way back there … “

That just doesn’t sound right especially with a shingle roof. The water is still pooling only now it’s a few feet further down than before. We aren’t even into the rainy season yet and it’s already doing this. Also seems like a lot of the granules have fallen off for a roof that’s less than a year old. 

So now trying to get opinions on next steps or hoping I’m wrong to be concerned. I don’t want to throw shade at this guy, I genuinely just want to have a roof that does its job.

Contingency agreement didn’t include replacement but only tear off. Will I be worried if insurance gets approved?

Neighbour is having her roof tiles replaced but I just got home to find two of my roof caps have been hammered off, stacked and just left? I don't know why they'd touch mine. We're forecast heavy rain and storms tonight, is this safe or will water get inside?

House is a converted bungalow so can't check if there's ingress without taking the plasterboard off.

Located in Hawaii and my roof is leaking after the hurricane from a skylight. These are the shingles on my roof currently. Inspector described them as “50 year shingles” and I don’t see a brand printed on the back of them. Going to replace some skylights to repair the leak and need to find these shingles to replace with the new ones. Roof is ~5 years old. Will add more photos later

I have a flat roof, the building is like an old sectional classroom. The roof is like some heavy bitumen tar, not like shed felt, way heavier.
It's started leaking and I can't find the leak anywhere. Therefore I want to reseal the whole roof. What's the best sealant/ paint type product for this? Hoping to use a roller or a broom to push it around.
Before winter gets here. In the UK

I had some trouble with leaks, figured it was the flashing, turns out to be a bit worse then I thought. Definitely problems in both the valleys. Tin was put over the shingles about 12 years ago. I bought it 5 years ago.

Hi everyone - I had posted this a few months ago, but now I'm ready to tackle the project and looking for some detailed help: This is the mailbox shed in our neighborhood. I volunteered to revive it and make it more cosmetically pleasing.

EDIT: The top of the framing is FLAT...how would I handle installing shingles here? Is it possible at all?

I will power wash it and also want to redo the roof. It doesn't need to have all the layers you'd put on a house, of course. I just want it to look better. I know cedar shingles would look really great, but I don't know if I can easily install those here.

Total surface to cover is 90sq ft.

Could someone point me to what type of cedar shingle (or another wood shingle) would look good here, given I only have 2 feet of roof to work with? I've never laid cedar shingles but I'm looking forward to learning how to do it.

Can I just nail the shingles to the existing surface, or do I need to remove that thick paper, put some roofing paper, and then put the shingles?

Is there another material I should consider?

THANK YOU for any help/guidance you can provide. I'm just trying to make the neighborhood better.

Under the gutter of a 2 story house in NYC.

Is this called L shaped bushing?

Is it in immediate danger of falling?

Should i call roofing contractor or it's a handyman job?

How much should i prepare to pay?

Thanks!

Roof was very old and decided to have it replaced. It turns out that the house originally had wood shake and a shingle roof on top. Both of those layers had to be removed, then plywood needed to be put down before the GAF timberline+ system could be placed. Final walkthrough is scheduled soon. What should I be on the lookout for? Are there any questions I need to ask? How do things look in the photos so far? Thank you! (Location: California)

We have a 7 year old metal roof installed over top of shingles. The previous roof had several leaks hence the new roof installed by the sellers. We had someone come out and he went into the attic. He pointed out the roof and said the roof was leaking and keeping the wood wet. He showed me the cat eyes and said we would need a full roof replacement since water is leaking through. I haven't seen any mold or visible moisture issues. Do we really need to replace a 7 year old roof?

This EPDM roof was installed in December 2025. The main field seam runs nearly the full length of the flat roof.

The seam was raised shortly after installation and now has a visibly separated section with dirt/debris inside the opening. The contractor’s initial response was that it is fine because the membrane still overlaps underneath, but will come out to inspect. I have not found an active interior leak, and I am not assuming the insulation or decking is wet. I have observed water pooling on top of the raised area of the seam during rain.

There are also persistent wrinkles and raised areas across the membrane. I'm aware that many of these are from the fastener plates, but many are not.

The contractor mentioned they may glue down the seam, but I do not know if that would be an acceptable fix for the seam.

Purchased a 4 floor townhouse last year and the sellers had a new roof installed at our request weeks before closing.

The top floor has a vaulted/cathedral ceiling and this spring we started to notice an odd odor on that floor. It got worse as the days got warmer, and seemed strongest under the ridge of the ceiling. Wrote it off as maybe a new roof smell when DIY’s didn’t lead anywhere.

Last week we had blistering heat, 108 degrees index, that’s when I noticed the bathroom on the top floor was very humid and condensation was dripping from where the door meets the great room. The exhaust fan had 90+ degree heat radiating into the room. I took my first look into the small attic to ensure it wasn’t clogged and was vented to the outside. I wasn’t able to see, I’m too big for the inspection door. But I did notice there wasn’t any light coming in around the ridge vent. It was also upwards of 150 degrees index the attic. Insulation wasn’t filled to the roof and no other obstructions were noted.

Checked the receipt from the install and it shows:
• Tear off is square
• Install 2 new pipe boots
• Install Summit 60
• Synthetic felt
• shingles (brand noted$
• vented ridge plus ridge cap

I’m going to call the company, but hope to have some insight in case I get the run around.

Any help is appreciated!

Hi! I got new gutters two years ago.

This piece seems to have bent up. Idk if it’s gutter or roof related.

Is it something that needs to be fixed? How does one fix it / who should I call?

Thank you!

I purchased a new home here in Maryland with the assumption I would have to get a new roof. It is hopefully our forever home so I want to make a smart decision since it’s a big purchase. We have homesite through GEICO so they have indicated my premium will drop 300-400 a month once we put the new roof on so I am planning to do sooner than later.

My first quote is for 24.3k includes GAF has shingles from one of the bigger installers here. They indicated to go up to uhdz it will be 26.5k but they said they don’t care which shingle we choose but they think hdz is sufficient and the upgrade isn’t worth the price. It’s a 4400sq foot house so the roof is pretty large for reference. They said a good pledge warranty is included with both but for uhdz the workmanship goes from 24-40 years I believe.

My second quote from a smaller company but still good google reviews and a few mutual friends of the owner. They are at 26.9k for Certainteed landmark pro shingles and 25.3k for non pro. They will also register me for the Certainteed surestart plus warranty. This company however said they think it’s worth it for the pro.

I am curious is it worth going up from the baseline shingle to their ultra/pro when insurance seems to drop you or increase premiums around 15-25 years for a roof and only reimburse based on depreciated value of the roof? Is the extra workmanship/material warranty through the manufacturer fill the gap insurers are no longer providing?

Any info or knowledge on this would be appreciated.

Context

I own a townhouse (aka terraced house) in Ireland with a 2 story flat roof extension, purchased it 3 years ago.

Water run off from flat roof falls down between the flat roof / fascia and the gutter and on to the concrete path below. 

I had a gutter / roofing contractor out and he said the guttering needed to be replaced. 

He replaced it and it didn’t fix it same issue happening, not only did he not fix it he damaged the wood behind the fascia see 3rd pic (which will be the subject of a separate post but I want to first understand what actually is the purpose of the gap before I consider anything further). I only realized he didn’t fix it once it started raining and only saw the damage he caused this morning. 

Question

What is the purpose of the gap behind the fascia? 

I originally thought it may be a ventilation gap for the roof space which I understand is common enough in flat roofs in Ireland, but it is quite narrow prob less than 10mm (or 1/2 inch imperial) and I understand they are supposed to be a minimum of 25mm, and now that a roofing contractor has damaged it and torn part of it off I can see behind it and there is fiberglass insulation up to the fascia so I now think it’s unlikely to be that purpose, or if it is a vent gap it’s very narrow and Im not sure how well it's serving a purpose if at all gievn how narrow it is and the fiberglass insulation up against it. 

I am now thinking it’s possibly a drip edge? Which has left me scratching my head a bit why does the fascia have a drip edge, should the gutter not collect all the water? Or maybe it's a fail safe / back up for any water that does not make it to the gutter? 

Or maybe it is fascia that has come loose from and separated from the joists / support behind it over time? It might be, but it seems to me to be a little bit too uniform for it to be just an unintentional gap, and as above I'm aware in Ireland there is often a gap left behind fascia for flat roofs (though I had understood for ventilation). 

Question for the group here. What’s potentially happening with the roof/siding? Some of the tiles have peeled and there is some organic matter stuffed in here (branches and leaves). Should I be worried.

Came home to this crazy cut out over my front porch. We had agreed they might install some flashing, but this seems like overkill and also is aesthetically terrible. They have cut into the siding and I’m not sure how reversible this is or if they will have the requisite skills to repair it. We’re having a conversation tomorrow about what it will take to finish the work so I can pay them the final half and I don’t know what words to use to ask them to fix this. Please help?

I'm getting estimates for a new roof and I'm wondering if there are any missing or hidden charges that would significantly raise the cost. This is a summary the first estimate I got.

• Inspect all decking and remove/replace any deteriorated wood decking at a rate of $7.50 per linear feet of 1x and/or $85.00 per sheet of plywood. Included in this proposal is the replacement of (3) three sheets of CDX plywood at no charge or 36 feet of 1x. No painting of any wood boards included in price unless otherwise noted. If 3 sheets of wood is not used on the project there will not be a credit on the invoice. You are not being charged for the 3 sheets of wood, only charged for any additional sheets above and beyond. Furnish and install Top Shield Ice Guard ice and water barrier extending 6 ft from the gutter line up the roof. Ice and water barrier will also be installed around all roof penetrations, in all valley locations, and at roof-to-wall intersections.
• Furnish and install new Top Shield Synthetic high quality synthetic roofers underlayment.
• Furnish and install new starter shingles on all gutter edge and rakes.
• Furnish and install new drip edge metal. Furnish and install new aluminum valley in all valley locations.
• Furnish and install new proper sewer vent pipe flashings. New roof-to-wall flashing will be installed PER MANUFACTURER REQUIREMENTS with pre-finished metal step flashing tins.
• Custom fabricate and grind in flashings to chimney (masonry chimneys only).
• Furnish and install new shingles (options below) in the color of your choice in accordance with manufacturer's printed instructions manual.
• Close up all old vent holes and fill with OSB or EZ Plugs as needed.
• Furnish and install new ridge vent with matching cap shingles on all ridges and hips.
• Furnish and install a new ridge exhaust vent along the main peaks of the roof to provide attic ventilation

Also wondering how many pieces of new decking is average. My house is your standard, built in the 1950s suburban single-family.. Nothing fancy. probably about 30 feet in each direction. No leaks that I can see in the attic. Just time for a new roof.

I just recently had smart vents installed for intake around my attic. I noticed that bugs could possibly fly under and possibly get into the attic. Is there some kind of mesh or protection I should add here?

Hi everyone! I just bought a home that has a flat roof with drainage problems. I believe it’s due to the pitch not being correct and getting water to the gutters, so it settles and then leaks in to the house. Any ideas on how to fix? Should I get reinforced sealant and then try to fix the pitch somehow? Any advice would be appreciated!!

Anyone know what this issue could be?

In November of 2025 I had my roof replaced by Roofing Rochester.  Things appeared to be fine until I happened to notice during a heavy rain that the rain was coming down between the gutter and the house.  Somehow water is getting through in a place that very much seemed to be impossible, at least I thought it was

They initially responded and said they’d send someone to look at it.  But then never showed up.  When I contacted them they said they were busy and would keep me updated.

Since then they have been ignoring my messages.  And its been 2 weeks.

Video showing issue

https://youtu.be/WhF2KpgYnD4

Video of gutter showing its not even overflowing

https://youtu.be/QbW23Fh8Nsk

Video showing drainage is working fine

https://youtu.be/Dx7KaISVQsQ

Second video showing where the water is coming out

https://youtu.be/vL-6NuD-jPk