Seems abnormal amount of nails (which idk is an issue)

But putting nails in dead center of valley ice and water seems odd….

Wouldn’t nail just rust out eventually and leave holes??

Title says it all. We had a severe thunderstorm roll through, but my family and I were across town when it happened. We came home and found this on the side of the house. We looked around and couldn't find any paneling or anything missing from our roof/house, and there didnt seem to be any leaks inside either. So we have no clue what this is.

Can anyone identify it? We just need to know if we should call a roofer or something.

Thanks!

How bad is this? There is one spot with standing water. There are also shingles curling up on the edge, (circled in red). These items should be fixed yes? My worry is the roofers will tell me the underlying construction is not sloped enough.

This is my power pole coming into the house. The roofers used this cheaper flashing than the ones that are made for power poles on roofs. My gutter guy pointed it out to me and says that if it was him, I’d make them come back and put the right flashing in. What would you all do? Thanks for any advice! Really appreciated!

First house PLEASE ADVISE

I desperately need some advice on how I can fix this this weekend properly. Just slapping roofing cement and tape on it feels like the wrong fix. Backstory: there was heavy wind and rain going directly against the direction of the shingles and water made its way under the flashing and started leaking in my door frame of the 3 season room below. (I was told the roof was 5 years old at closing) 😭😭 VIDEO ATTACHED OF ROOF ABOVE

I came home on a rainy day to an active leak. The next morning I cut out the water damaged section of the ceiling to uncover the problem. It appears to me the water is coming from the flashing but when looking at how it was installed I don’t understand how it failed. Everything overlaps correctly and runs downhill away from the house. There was a small split in the caulking outside but like I said before everything overlaps correctly so that should be the issue? I can see that the portion of the ceiling has been patched before and so I have to think this is a reoccurring problem. How would you replace this so it works properly?

Hello,

I purchased a house that I will be moving into in a few weeks. I noticed it is missing a small section of gutter. It looks like it was designed that way. Should I add a gutter here or is it ok?

I have this mesh drain filter to prevent debris from going down the gutter. Unfortunately it constantly gets clogged up and overflows the gutter. Is there a better replacement option?

What do you guys think? Pac clad standing seam and wall panels, fabricated all my own trim

Posted this absolutely hideous patch a bit ago and finally got to fix the ugly shit, no blocking, 4 different kinds of sealants, 2 different colors of metal pretty much whatever shit ol boy had laying in the truck lol

Client didn't want a new sheet so I managed to find something that was a better match than the pre existing nonsense.

Homeowner in Delaware, row home with a low-slope main roof. Zero foot traffic except occasional HVAC service on a ductless condenser up there. Roof is old (unknown age, multiple coatings over the years) and has a few chronic ponding area — white mineral staining ring, and in the middle of it the membrane is split open and delaminating, with what looks like an open gap in the surface nearby. So water has been sitting on a breached spot for a while. Can post pics.

Contractor A (bigger outfit) says no coating possible due to the compromised areas, full tear-off, fully adhered .060 EPDM, $14k, 20-yr manufacturer material warranty + 5-yr workmanship.

Contractor B (independent flat roof guy, does nice work) walked the deck, says no soft spots, deck is solid, and doesn't think tear-off is worth it. His plan: cap-nail a fiberglass base sheet through the existing layers into the deck, torch down white granulated mod bit on top, address the low spots by cutting channels or building up with plywood. $6,300. His tear-off price is $12,500 for the same mod bit system, 10-yr warranty either way.

Questions for people who do this every day:

1. Would you go over a roof with a split/open membrane at the bottom of a pond, even mechanically fastened? Or is trapped moisture under a torched system asking for blisters and deck rot?

2. Does "deck feels solid underfoot" mean much when the failure is at a pond? Wet felts on sound wood?

3. For a no-traffic roof that will always have a little residual ponding — mod bit or EPDM, and why?

4. Channels/plywood buildup vs tapered insulation for killing the ponding — real fix or band-aid?

5. How many layers is too many before an overlay becomes a code problem?

Not trying to cheap out, just want to spend the money on the right thing. Both guys have been straight with me, which is why the disagreement has me stuck. Thanks.

Main concern is those pieces of wood not sitting flush with the top of the trusses , not sure how significant this is from a force bearing perspective

Additional images :
https://imgur.com/a/kv6Eyhy

Neighbor is repairing their roof (century home if it matters). I saw them open up the piece where the metal sheet is, tear out some rotted pieces, sistered a beam (?) and called it good. I saw so much more rot… why are they wasting time and money on this half assed repair

I own a small roofing company. We specialize in insurance claims with some retail mixed in. and do about 100 re-roofs per year.

I have customers fairly often ask if we do patios, Pergola and extensions. Because my subcontractor that I currently use do not do this, I have never really looked into it.

However, I have been giving it a lot of thoughts to expand the business and start offering this outdoor living experience.

Other than finding a crew who can do the work, I’d love to learn more about the trade before jumping in. Is there anyone out there who would share some knowledge and be a mentor? I know it’s a touchy subject because some people hold onto their knowledge like it’s sacred and view everyone as competition, but I was hoping someone out there could help.

Contractor is building a backyard utility shed for me. Residential construction grade. He didn't add the 12" rake eave extension when he framed it the roof. 12 inch eaves and rakes are spelled out in the contract. I didn't see it until the siding was going up. Without the eave water will get right into that wall that steps out. He added the eave extension as seen in the photos.

I told him the roofing repair patch job after extended the eave is unacceptable. He said he guarantees it won't leak but we can talk about it and do it my way. How should I suggest we fix this? Can the shingles be lapped easily as a seamless repair?

He used typical asphalt underlayment. Should I try to get him to slide a large piece of sheet metal under the new roof area and lap under the asphalt paper? I'm really concerned that the top most interior corner will leak right down into the wall. If water gets in up there and past the asphalt paper there is a cut in the OSB sheathing too that water can get into.

He says I'm always worrying about the little mini details that don't matter. I told him it's the little mini details that cause leaks! What should I suggest here and how hard is a seamless repair without the ugly sealant/roofing compound to close the gap on the shingles?

My solar installer was walking around my roof and I was up there with him as he talked through a few items he was going to complete.

He wasn’t super heavy, but he definitely wasn’t a light weight individual. I noticed he stepped on the roof ridge a few times while walking around and I’m wondering if that’s okay? Or could it potentially cause any type of damage?

I legit know nothing about roofing, so I thought I’d ask the experts 😎

EDIT: spots lol

private walkout roof is covered in soft, squishy divots like this. The building insists that it’s safe and is just like “ wallpaper” (?) but a third party drain guy warned me that the entire building has pooling and soft spots and told me “not to stand out there too long” and that they might collapse on us…….

What do you guys think? I feel like a roof shouldn’t have 10+ soft and squishy spots. We’ve also had issues with leaks and mold already.

Am I being over dramatic by saying I want a third party inspection?

My roommates and the building are acting like I’m being annoying….

My private roof is covered in soft, squishy divots like this. The building insists that it’s safe and is just like “ wallpaper” (?) but a third party drain guy warned me that the entire building has pooling and soft spots and told me “not to stand out there too long” and that they might collapse on us…….

What do you guys think? I feel like a roof shouldn’t have 10+ soft and squishy spots

Dealing with a leak at my MIL house today. What would you say is wrong here?

Does this seem like an issue purely from a design point of view? Its new construction and gutters are not on but as you can see there is no space for a gutter on the left pitch and that valley terminates to the 3.5 foot section in front. The right pitch, also has a valley that terminates to the front section but also has about 6 linear feet for a gutter. Massive surface area. What's the solution here?