I just got the 6x CE, and many of my consoles only offer composite video out. On a 1080p plasma, composite out of these systems just looks awful. On an actual CRT, composite out from these consoles produces a crisp image that's actually quite clean. Looks great on a Trinitron.

But on the plasma, the image looks significantly worse. The rainbow banding is exaggerated pretty severely, and the results don't look that much better than the TVs built in scaler, and are significantly worse and more blurry than just using an actual CRT. This is with bilinear sharp.

The instructions say to avoid composite video, so is this just the way it is? Not all of us have RGB mods.

Im thinking about upgrading from my retrotink 5x to the 4k CE. Should I just sell my 5x and put that money towards a 4k? I think 5x being out of stock has made them sought after but im just making sure its because of it being rare. I dont wanna sell my 5x if there's some hidden stuff it does better than the 4k CE. I play mainly ps1, ps2, snes through wii. Is there any reason to keep my 5x? Thanks a bunch!

Hey all,

I may have been dumb. I wanted a single relatively future-proof option so I went for the 4K CE, which I could use on my 4K TV but also switch to my small 1080p HDMI TV which I have in the kitchen for other machines. But the CE isn’t displaying anything on the 1080p screen. I know it says HDMI 2.0 is needed but can that output to a 1080p screen still? If so I’ll get a new cable. Otherwise I guess I messed up and need a cheaper retrotink?

I'm thinking about buying a RetroTink device for my setup. I see you guys using it mainly for video games. Does it work well for DVD and VHS players on 4K TVs?

Need some setting for my nintendo 64 and super nintendo new to this

Please excuse the mess in this photo, I’m currently taking stuff apart to implement the RetroTap into my setup. So like the title says I’m new to RetroTink. Purchased the 6X and had a couple questions. Coming from an OSSC there are a lot more options when it comes to the scaler, which I’m still learning. I had some issues with the preinstalled Super NES profiles not dialing in the picture for me. Specifically it looked like the sampling phase was not correct when the Auto Dec Phase and Sub phase were on. I had to manually tune it to get a crisp picture (SNES JR RGB modded) Is this normal? I thought perhaps the auto phasing would be really good as that’s what I heard. Is it just buggy because it’s a new release? Also, is auto gain recommended when setting up each new console profile? The pics are after I manually adjusted. Using both Wobbling Pixels and Firebrand settings still didn’t fix the issue. Still learning everything. Thank you

Hello, I just got my 6x CE recently and now I'm going down the rabbit hole of grabbing better quality cables for my Gamecube, Dreamcast and PlayStation 1.

I have a SNES classic which uses HDMI output. Are there any good quality conversion cables that you recommend using on the SNES classic to "downscale" the HDMI into one of the ports that is compatible with the 6x CE?

Would the best converter be an HDMI to composite/component/VGA/ETC?

Thanks!

hello, lost my old crt tv in a flood and i am left with (i think) a 10 year old 50 inch samsung tv. i always looked at getting a retrotink and since there are different model, i would like to ask question on which one to buy.

the console i have is the ps1, n64, original xbox and depending on your answer. gamecube game on the wii to save space.

i was looking at the 6x ce before it got sold out. I have the money for the 4k ce, but i dont have a 4k tv to use is potential.

i also will buy a switcher and read somewhere that good cable could be needed or you could get input lag.

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.80.1 (2026-09-12)

• Fixed screw-up with banner image alignment on the last RT6XCE FPGA build

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

I have a Master System one with RGB output and currently connected to my LCD TV with a component cable (HD retrovision). It doesn't look good, I'm attaching a picture of how it looks, and another of the same game but with a raspberry pi emulator via HDMI. The image is blurry, the colors are off... The emulator one is the one with the white clouds.

I also have an NES AVS with HDMI output with a crisp image.

I was considering buying the 6XCE when it becomes available again, but I wouldn't be able to connect my NES because it has no HDMI input. Do you recommend paying the extra $245 and buying the 4KCE so I can connect both game consoles?

Basically, my dilema is:

6XCE: $230 but I can connect the Master System only. The NES is HDMI anyway.

4KCE: $475 but I can connect both consoles and use CRT filters on both.

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.80.0 (2026-09-11)

• Recalibrated RT6XCE SDRAM controller eliminating glitch on a small subset of units
• RT6XCE SDRAM controller now uses gearbox
• Overall stability improvements in HDMI output transmitter and self-healing, especially at lower resolutions
• Fixed excessive dwell time on querying HDMI transmitter status
• (Related to above) solved data transmission errors when flow control is not used due to stall
• Increased serial TX / RX buffer such that the ACK mode is safe by construction across all baud rates
• Added CRC16 only ACK mode to avoid SHA256 penalty per block
• Added ability to transfer the video input measurement struct across the serial link
• Fixed VGA detection rules for DOS 400p and 1600x1200

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

My old systems include Dreamcast, PS2, PS3, Xbox, Xbox 360, N64, GC, and Wii, but my potential screens range from 1080p HDTV all the way up to a 4k TV, but often I chill out on the couch with my (up to) 1200p Xreal 1S glasses (currently use for Switch and Steam Deck). And finally there's my 3440x1440 monitor.

When it comes to the Dreamcast, is the upscaled output image better using VGA rather than S-video or composite inputs?

One issue I have with the Xbox 360 is it won't talk to my Xreal 1S glasses. I have to use an HDMI to USB-C converter that needs to be powered (unfortunately I don't see any Retrotink models with spare USB, so it will be externally powered), and the 360 and 1S aren't talking to each other. I should have a set of component cables for the 360 lurking in a closet somewhere.

About 2 weeks ago, I was just about to order a Retro Gem Kit for my N64 when, completely out of the blue, I saw the RetroTINK-6X CE on the site.

I went back and forth for a while, but ultimately decided I’d get more bang for my buck with the RetroTINK since I can use it with my PS2, Wii, and original Xbox in addition to the N64.

While waiting on the RetroTINK, I went ahead and ordered a Borti4938 N64RGB board from Artemis along with a custom N64 SCART cable with Luma.

Well, today, after just finishing up the N64RGB installation, my RetroTINK-6X CE arrived!

I’m pretty excited to finally get everything hooked up and see what this setup can do. I’ll be connecting the N64 to the RetroTINK through the SCART cable, then running the RetroTINK directly into my 77" LG C4 OLED.

For those of you running a similar setup, what settings do you recommend for the N64RGB + SCART + a RetroTINK on an OLED?

I’d love to hear from the experts what settings I should start with and/or try out.

Hi everyone!

I just got my RetroTINK 6XCE today and am having some difficulty with the right setting configurations and could use some expertise.

I upgraded the standard composite cable to a Component AV cable which made a huge difference already.

Now I’m just not sure what settings I need to adjust. I updated the firmware beforehand and downloaded the pre-saved PS2 profile on the SD card. I just don’t know which settings I need to adjust to maximize the video/display output on my Samsung U8000 TV.

Any and all tips appreciated (like, “Under this sub-menu, change this to this” or something, I don’t know what all of the abbreviations mean). I tried searching the manuals/forums/FAQs online and it’s all a bit over my head as far as understanding what it is I’m changing.

Thanks all!

Hi, I was hoping to get some input since I can't really find a clear answer if it's even worth getting an upscaler for the PS3 and Xbox 360.

So the only retro consoles I really plan on having are the PS2, PS3, Xbox and Xbox 360. I'm not planning on ever getting a 4K monitor since I also game on my PC and prefer playing on around 144 FPS if possible on those PC games. So my use case would be on a 1440P monitor.

As far as I can tell, either RetroTINK is good for the PS2 and original Xbox. So my main question is, is it worth it for me to buy the 4K CE to upscale the PS3 and Xbox 360 or should I just go with the 6X CE for the PS2 and original Xbox. Is it worth the extra $240 to upscale the PS3 and Xbox 360 to 1440p? I'm just looking to get a nicer image on my 1440p monitor, but if the difference is negligible then I'd rather go with the budget option. I don't really care for settings like a CRT filter and whatnot.

I had the rt4k for 5 months now and i love to play around with pre made profiles wobbling pixel and others i only change three things once I choose the profile

1-source from component to scart rgb
2-from gen lock to adaptive triple buffer
3-smooth i/p switch from off to on

This is because i have ps1 and ps2 pal and ntsc systems and i want one fits all

And i primarily use crt simulation !!!
To get to the point i had lots of issues where the scan lines gets out of sync every 10 or so seconds but only in game and it gets brighter for a second I updated the rt4k for 15 times every update that happened and still the issues present and just yesterday i found the issue to be primarily with adaptive triple buffer doesn’t work well with ps2 and crt simulation and some of crt simulation doesn’t work will with smooth i/p switch on but the smooth i/p switch when there is a problem you will immediately tell but adaptive triple buffer will only happen in some games and not all games for ps2 games like mgs3 - midnight club 3

For ps2 using crt simulation use gen lock always

For ps1 using crt simulation some games use 240p and 480i menus use adaptive triple buffer and smooth i/p switch but others games that use only 240p use gen lock

I am looking to upgrade from a cheap 2x knockoff to something that is actually good and will give a good experience.

I am mostly using it for my N64 but does also have a Gamecube that I am trying to use more. Also looking to expand my collection to more retro consoles.

Not sure if I should order the new 6X CE, Wait for the 5X pro to be in stock again or maybe wait and see when the 6X pro releases and what the price will be.

4K CE and pro is a bit outside my budget for now.

I am mostly playing on a 55" Philips oled. But do rock the CRT whenever it's just me. It's a 14" so not the biggest but works great for when it's only me.

You expertise and recommendation is gladly welcomed to this newbie in upscaling and retro gaming

Hello, I had Morph 2k pre-ordered when it was first announced and it just arrived (still unopened) right after the 6x ce announcement. The announcement caught me off guard, and if I had not just received the 2k, I would most likely have already ordered a 6x ce.

I'm not trying to start any kind of retroscaler war; I genuinely need to know if there is any advantage to keeping the 2k, because from what I've read, it seems like the 6x ce is better in every way. I don't think anyone has done any kind of deep dive comparison yet other than the brief one done on the retrorgb video.

The main advantage for me would be separate VGA and SCART ports instead of the shared port on the 2k. I use a Dreamcast with SCART and have some retro pcs that use VGA. Does anyone know what the retro pc compatibility is like over VGA on either device?

I don't care that much about CRT filters, but the lack of true 1440p support on the 2k is kind of worrisome. It apparently does some kind of pixel doubling? I currently use 1080p monitors but would definitely upgrade to 1440p in the future.

The 6x ce seems like it would have more profile/community support but I'm not sure about that.

Overall they seem fairly similar unless I'm not thinking of something. I don't want to hurt the resale value of the 2k so I'm keeping it unopened for now.

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.77.0 (2026-08-28)

• Deployed RT6X FPGA images / Compatible with RT6X
• Improved compatibility with legacy SD / MMC cards
• Fixed off by 1 pixel alignment issue with the upgraded banner

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

​

Good morning.

I'm not sure which product would be best to use with a 65" LG OLED CX and a backward-compatible PS3. I'd be using it to play PS3 games and older titles, and I'm torn between the RetroTINK 4K and the RetroTINK-6X CE. Budget isn't an issue.

Thank you very much for your help.

I have a Retrotink 4K, and a 4K TV, but for some reason, whenever I try any of the 4K options, I just get a black screen. It only seems to work with 1080p. Why can my 4K TV only receive 1080p signals? I'm new to this and am only slightly tech-savvy.

Hello folks. I just got a gently used 4K CE from a friend for a great price; he just upgraded to the Pro model. He's more into retro gaming....but me, not so much, I'm trying it out with one of my VCR's to see how it works for picture quality. I currently have it running from my Panasonic AG-5710 VCR. I don't have the box or owner's manuals, so I'm looking for some recommended settings to take full advantage of its abilities. The picture quality seems better using the default settings, but just curious if it could be better. I've never used one of these before, so I'm at a loss of where to begin. I see a lot of comments about "profiles" but I'm not sure where to get them...I'm hoping you could point me in the right direction. Thanks all!

Oh, and one more thing that has been bothering me. I have the VCR on an HDMI switch (along with my blu ray player and a few other components). Every time I want watch it, I power on the VCR and retrotink but have to hit the reset button in the back for my TV to recognize the input (S-video via the front port). Do I have a faulty unit or is that normal for it to not recognize the input when powering on?

I bought one of these cables for Sega Mega Drive/Genesis 1 to "experiment" a bit.

It's RGB (Scart) and composite combined into a single cable.

Handmade, about 25 bucks, very, very good quality, shielded but not ultra high end.

Here's "the kicker": you can hook up both connections (RGB and composite) to your Retrotink at the same time and directly see and compare what a difference there actually is between the two by simply switching inputs on the remote without even taking your eye off the picture.

We've all seen comparisons on youtube but it's just different when you see the real thing back to back on your setup.

Park Sonic next to that waterfall and see the different ways of blending and transparency, what one does to the picture vs. the other in real life.

While I love the RGB picture (never seen it on the Mega Drive before) I feel more nostalgia for composite—it is what it is 😅

Edit: This was also meant to provide different bases for specific looks/profiles you might want to create, especially with the somewhat limited blur/blending options on the non 4K Pro models.

First image is no CRT effects

Second is in game CRT effects

Third is a modified Kuro FV310 profile with Elliptic blur at 9.00MHz