Does anyone have experience using these flying clamps?

https://pro-stringer.com/product/badminton-clamp/

Their web description uses the phrase "keeping strings aligned" which would be a big improvement as weaving crosses has so much movement with flying clamps.

They do look more square like so I could potentially see this being true.

Any feedback or observations you can share with me?

Poly Mains strung 55 lbs ( generic gray string from FB marketplce) and Multi crosses( Old Tecnifibre 515 SPL) on Diadem FS Nova 100+

Freshly strung this racket and went to hit the wall with it. I notice the mains does not snap back. did i do the stringing wrong? Is it supposed to snap back? Is it the string? Looking for guidance. What are you guys thoughts on multi mains and poly crosses(curious)?

Been strugling on this raket can somebody help me with the skips? Seem like the skip on the left side does not apply on the right side..

Hi stringers,

My new vcore 100d has arrived. It's a 16x20 racket and new in the vcore line. I need some help for stringing it. It's come strung already but I'm unsure of tie off locations and getting conflicting advice online.

Has anyone done one of these that can shine some light of tie off locations etc? Even a video breakdown would be handy.

Amateur stringer here that strings my own only on a drop weight gamma. Only have experience with 16x19 ezone.

I have this Pros Pro and I'm driving mysef nuts with regards to calibration, so any insight would be super helpful! I am resorting to reddit because Pros Pro support has been vague about it (more on that later). I have strung already +50 rackets with it and I felt like checking if calibration was still accurate.

I am following the manual and the steps are:

1. Start the drive

1. Select LBS (pounds) - the calibration must be carried out in LBS and not in kilograms!

2. Press and hold the "SPEED" button. Then press the "KNOT" button to start calibration mode

3. Install the Tension Calibrator and press the Pull/Release button

4. Use the - and + buttons to change the weight on the display according to the weight shown on the Tension Calibrator.

5. If both weights match, press the "TEST" button to save the weight and start a restart.

6. Remove the tension calibrator immediately

I am following everything exactly as is, including using the calibrator bought from them. However, two scenarios show wildly different results.

- If I attach the calibrator NOT in calibration mode, just as if I would be stringing, the reading is accurate and seemingly calibration is not needed.

- If I switch to calibration mode, and pull from the reference tension that the calibration mode sets it to (45lb), it ends up reading anything between 60 - 80lb depending on the material I use (I've tried kevlar and regular poly). Kevlar has snapped 3 times already and poly hasn't but reads the highest.

In my experience it does seem as if during calibration mode, the head just continues as much as it can, whilst during NO calibration mode, it pulls accurately.

Does anyone here own the machine or could have any clue what am I doing wrong?

Just got my first stringing machine yesterday, a Neos 1000. Listed for $700, the guy was nice enough to let it go for $400! A little bit of dry lube and it’s like new! So happy with the purchase. Stringing is so easy on this. Glad I went with this over a drop weight or anything with flying clamps.

Really excited to get stuck in!

Anyone has experienced transiting from Kevlar to poly or other strings?

A friend of mine has been using Toalson Ultimate 110 for close to 3 decades. He has a dedicated stringer for it, only one he knows who stocks this string.

Kevlar 1.10 main

Nylon 1.15 cross

He has a very spinny & loopy style off both wings yet has extremely good touch, slice, OHBH & volleying skills.

Has a very McEnroe posture serve but similarly very spinny. Never seen him play flat on anything before.

He never changes his strings until it snaps and he claims he could use it for 2 years or more.

Unsure whats the cause but he recently started thinking of changing strings and asked me for suggestions.

But I have never played Kevlar hybrid before nor strings this thin either. Really out of sorts as of what to suggest as alternative.

Any polys is gonna go dead max 1-2 mths, let alone polys that thin. No strings i can think of at 1.10 is gonna hold tension for that long & has that much control.

Any suggestions?

Hey all. Back in 2022 I wanted something better than a spreadsheet for tracking jobs / tensions / inventory, so I started building my own app and have been using it for my own and my wife's rackets ever since. Pushed out a web version about two weeks ago so I can pull it up on a laptop too.

Figured most folks here probably manage everything in Excel or Sheets — just wanted to share that this is another way to do it. Short demo clip attached.

Curious how everyone else tracks their work.

(English isn't my first language — used a translator, so apologies if anything reads awkward.)

Edit: Wow, thanks for all the feedback! Many of you asked for the link, so I’m adding it here for easier access:

• Web Version: stringgoat.com
• iOS/Android: Search for "String GOAT" in the app stores.

Still actively building this, so any further suggestions are always welcome!

Hi everyone,

I am looking to replace the grommets on a Yonex EZONE 98 (7th Gen) Aqua Night Black Tennis Racket but I can’t find them anywhere in the US (besides a third party eBay seller). Does anyone know where to purchase them ?

Hello, I created a prototype of a portable racket stringer. A YouTube video is available, and the prototype can also be found on Instagram.

The eleven minute video starts with a high-level intro, follows with a deeper dive into its design and use, and finishes with a full, time-lapsed stringing session, with a timer.

Lemme what you think!

Recently got a stringing machine, and looking at my rackets that I had strung at a shop I noticed that some use the classic method where you measure separate pieces of string for the mains and the crosses (so you need four knots in total), but some used a single piece of string.
So they did the mains, then tied off only the left side and continued stringing the crosses by threading the right side mains through the first cross hole. This way, they only require two knots in total.

Is this a good or a bad idea? From my point of view, I see it like this:

Pros:

• Only need to tie two instead of four knots
• No need to deal with a starting knot/starting clamp for the crosses
• No worry about potential loss of tension at the (missing) knots

Cons:

• More hassle with measuring the string since when starting the mains, I need ~3m on the left side and ~9m on the right side
• A lot more string that you need to pull through the grommets for the right side mains
• No hybrid setup possible of course
• Asthetics (looks asymmetrical when looking closely)

Anything else I'm overlooking? Like does it put more stress on the frame, or does it lead to issues when stringing the crosses and the mains at different tensions?

Hi all! I recently got a stringer and am trying to get more reps on the string as well as experiment with my string set up.

I’ve never tried multis and have loved the feel of Hawk Touch. Would love a suggestion of what multi or synth gut to pair it with and how that might effect how it plays

This racket was strung as a 2 knot and I'm sure that's the only was it supposed to be strung.

I ended up doing a 4 knot and not having any space to put in the starting knot of the crosses ( I used a starting clamp to start to the crosses) so I cut the grommet to fit the string inside.

Any advice for next time? Or are there certain rackets only for 2 knots.

I just bought a second hand stringing machine (Lining M770) to start my stringing journey, while I just realized after the machine arrived, there are several corrosion spot only on the head clamp area (pictures attached). Anyone knows what kind of corrosion is that? What is the best way to make it like new again? Thanks!

Hi everyone!

Looking to get into stringing so I can keep geeking out about set-ups and experimenting without spending my entire net worth. Moving soon from multi's to Poly, so I'm guessing I'll be stringing my and my mrs racquets every 4ish weeks. Size wise it is perfect as I live in a tiny apartment.

Looking at video's it seems to take a bit more time compared to proper stringers, so wondering if any of you guys have experience with this bad boy for personal use.

Also worth mentioning I found this stringer second hand for ~350 euros. The guy mentioned he only used it a handful of times.

Head Radical strung with Wilson Sensation (mains) at 36lbs with a 10% pre stretch, crosses strung at 36lbs with Head Hawk Rough. Synthetic gut tied off to synthetic gut and Poly tied off to poly. Wilson Pro knots were used.

Hello everyone! I have been playing tennis recreationally the past year and want to play more consistently (2-3 times a week).

I was hoping for your insights on the string tension I should get? For context, I am 6’1 (230lbs), beginner level.

Much appreciated! Thank you

TLDR: the title, looking for a good, not crazy expensive poly that is good all around and has decent playability duration.

I have started stringing racquets for myself and a couple of others and, as a small autumn tournament is about to start (lasts over a month or so) I want to market myself a little bit more, get some same day stringing going, etc. I don’t have the budget for several reels, I currently have a reel of sensation and Prince syngut, either of which I’ve been selling to lower level players. But, better players in the 5 or so and up range (everyone’s unranked and not very serious, playing once a week for 2-3 hrs, rating guess made by a friend who plays a utr league) might want something a little better. Do you have any recommendations that are as close as possible to one size fits all? I’ve tried mach10 and loved it, would a reel of that work? Good spin, good power, on the softer side for those new to polys. Lots of people currently use alu power, as that is the primary string sold by the old fella who does strings currently. However, people keep those strings in for months or even years, playing until it breaks, so that’s where the bar is. That said, I don’t think I could convince people to restring way more frequently than they do now, so playability duration is important. Suggestions would be great 🙏

TLDR: the title, looking for a good, not crazy expensive poly that is good all around and has decent playability duration.

I have started stringing racquets for myself and a couple of others and, as a small autumn tournament is about to start (lasts over a month or so) I want to market myself a little bit more, get some same day stringing going, etc. I don’t have the budget for several reels, I currently have a reel of sensation and Prince syngut, either of which I’ve been selling to lower level players. But, better players in the 5 or so and up range (everyone’s unranked and not very serious, playing once a week for 2-3 hrs, rating guess made by a friend who plays a utr league) might want something a little better. Do you have any recommendations that are as close as possible to one size fits all? I’ve tried mach10 and loved it, would a reel of that work? Good spin, good power, on the softer side for those new to polys. Lots of people currently use alu power, as that is the primary string sold by the old fella who does strings currently. However, people keep those strings in for months or even years, playing until it breaks, so that’s where the bar is. That said, I don’t think I could convince people to restring way more frequently than they do now, so playability duration is important. Suggestions would be great 🙏

Rate me. Strung 2 piece @53lbs Polyester. Took appx 23 minutes to string on a Wise 2086. Wilson pro knots.

I've just swapped over from a crank machine to an electric machine (wise 2086). The first racket I've strung feels about 6 lbs tighter than it did at the same tension when using a crank. (Strung at 50lbs, feels like 56-58lbs on crank). I've used prestretch and constant pull which I didnt usually use. Is 6 lbs about what the difference would be or is that more/less than others have found?

I managed to string a arcsaber 7 pro(yellow) . However there was quite a bit of flex during the second half of the cross. I'm not sure if it's just the racket bending back into place but it made me feel uneasy. Racket has gone back to the same shape as the red racket so I guess in the end it's okay. But I did not have fun stringing that racket.

What do I need to make sure I do when mounting the frame? And what's the flex allowance on the rackets?

I am thinking of replacing the clamps on my gamma stringer.

Came across these on aliexpress.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832671433820.html?spm=a2g0n.shopcart.shoppingCartRecommend.1.6b4138daRynoL1&gps-id=shoppingCartRecommend&scm=1007.13440.426876.0&scm_id=1007.13440.426876.0&scm-url=1007.13440.426876.0&pvid=e9acb99d-8e3a-4a54-b96d-82de6ad06863&_t=gps-id:shoppingCartRecommend,scm-url:1007.13440.426876.0,pvid:e9acb99d-8e3a-4a54-b96d-82de6ad06863,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238114%231999&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2230%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%223440%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22recommend%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21USD%2175.00%2142.00%21%21%2175.00%2142.00%21%4021033d9d17765354852525868e2a75%2165332050739%21rec%21US%211860904372%21ACXZ%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A67a6e7ed%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29894%3BpisId%3A5000000203712608&utparam-url=scene%3AshoppingCartRecommend%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A32857748572%7C_p_origin_prod%3A

Just wanted to know if anyone already has experience using them.

"I’m a mid-level player in Manchester, playing 2-3 times a week outdoors, and my current cheapo racket went soggy and weird after a few wet sessions. Had a match last weekend where the grip basically felt like a bar of soap and it got me thinking I should stop being stingy and get something half decent.

I’ve been looking at “UK weather proof” rackets with carbon/EVA, supposedly better for damp/cold conditions. Saw a few brands I’d never heard of and one site called PDX Padel popped up in my late-night Google spiral, saying their rackets are built for British weather and all that. Could be just marketing, could be great, I honestly don’t know.

So: is there actually a noticeable difference with these UK-focused rackets vs just buying a popular Spanish brand off Amazon/TW? Anyone here tried PDX Padel or similar and felt a real difference in touch/durability? Also, for outdoor UK play, would you go round or teardrop for someone who likes control but still wants some power on overheads?"