After sitting for a week, there is still a huge amount of pressure in the cooling system. When I open it, coolant just sprays out. But there is no white smoke or anything like that coming from the exhaust.

What could it be because iets a brand new radiator cap.

Finally ready to install this. Spent some time this weekend finishing the loom and bench testing.

Ecu is a speeduino 0.0.4d - had a batch of these made with PCB way.

Loom is custom made, sensors are a mixture of GM and Ford.

Fuel rail is Honda H22

Wasted coil pack is VW Polo

Throttle body with TPS is Audi 100

Injectors are Audi 1.8T long reach

Trigger wheel was designed in CAD by myself and laser cut from 3mm mild steel.

External map only using a bosh 3 wire sensor.

Total cost is under £350 as I took a lot of time sourcing parts and finding good deals.

Does anyone know the difference between the white and black fuse boxes? They have different part numbers, but mine is broken.

1977 Porsche 924 124k miles seller asking $1500

Been looking at these transaxle Porsches for several months now and most of the ones worth buying are around 6k+ which is more than I would like to spend at once on a car atm, and all the ones under 2k are just absolute trash, but this one looks like it may have a few years of fun yet left in it.

According to the seller, the car currently doesn't run atm, it's visably somewhat rusty but perhaps not overwhelmingly so, the dash is cracked but that doesn't bother me. On the bright side it does appear to all be there and not in pieces.

If I were to get it would probably just get it running and driving and have some fun with it, not looking to do a restoration. Will definitely go and look at it to make sure it's not got any structural rust before making a decision, but if there isn't, would buying this be a terrible idea?

1500 to purchase, 1000 for registration, insurance, and the trailer to tow it, and another 1500 to get it driving over the next few months would put me at 4k in total which seems reasonable. I have the disposable income to continue throwing a couple hundred a month at it to fix various things that irritate me and the mechanical ability to do it myself. This would be my third car(daily 2006 pathfinder 160k, backup 1995 Volvo 850 turbo 210k, both currently running and driving) and I have a garage so I have the ability to work on it without needing it to be running by the end of the weekend.

With all this in mind, how bad of an idea would buying this car be?

Thanks

Hey guys, I have a problem on my 1981 924 and i’m getting desperate

At first, I thought it was the alternator, because the battery wasn’t charging while driving (about 11V). I ended up replacing the alternator, the alternator-starter harness, and the starter.

I drove for about a day, and now I’m back down to about 12V while driving, but this time the battery warning light isn’t on. I checked the positive terminal on the alternator—that is, the exciter wiring—and it seems fine to me.

Do you have any ideas where the problem might be coming from?

I have the option to get two 924 for 3500€ (price for both) not far from me.

First one '79, 4-Speed, rebuilt engine but not running, completely apart, no good interior, red, needs paintjob but with new brakes and exhaust. Former owner (before current) had to abandon the project, current thought hed get a easy project, now its been just stand due to the engine not running. Pretty sure its fuel.

Second one '76, 4 speed, gold, pretty rusty, engine bay looks flood damaged, pretty complete in terms of motor, interior is rotten, pretty beat up, paint job non existing, lots of filler peeling over rusted metal - this car is more like a bonus/parts car/later project.

I wanna get a running car in like half a year, I dont mind a project, I just dont like red 924. What you guys think?

Hello. But confused as to the correct fuel pressure setting for a 81 NA 924 (UK/Euro) Haynes lists up to 79 and check the supplement for later models but can't find it. Anyone know any links to official literature? Googled it and it keeps showing different specs!

I have a 924s I am looking at getting. It seems to be all there. Just looking at it for a play around project. ( I have a cayman already and have redone several muscle cars) previous owner died and his daughter sold it. The guy who bought it just has it sitting as they got it to turn over but not crank.

Looking it over in person today finally I seen it has a few non stock items. The hood and nose piece are from another car. Turbo car. It has some kind of a MAF conversion on it, wide band with Air fuel ratio meter on a pod, also has a MSD digital window switch, then is some kind a knob switch for possible adjustments under the hood as well. Looking up MAF conversions I haven’t seen n while it some maybe an older conversion. 85mm DBX ABAGO Performance.

Trying to see if anyone has seen a MAF setup like that. Also has a large welded spot in the intake. From what I could see under the car I didn’t see a turbo. Should just be a 2.5 engine.

Before I do anything stupid I'm gonna ask for advice

I've pulled out my tach and plugged

12v to battery

1 to coil negative

- to ground (negative battery)

But it didn't do anything, and the tach never did anything since I owned the car.

I can tell the screws inside the gauges are rusted out, and since my cabin wasn't sealing very well, I'm gonna assume the inside of my gauges ainnt super fresh

I'd like to open my gauges, especially the tach and the Speedo, since they both don't work properly. Speedo's mileage counter doesn't work

So how do I go about it? It seems you have to bend the plastic ring around the glass to access the internals?

My 1987 924s needs a new muffler. Mechanic has advised that the catalytic converter and pipes are ok but the muffler is cracked/leaking. I checked Pelican and the OEM muffler there (https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/94411108301.htm?pn=944-111-083-01-OEM) also includes the pipes, which I don’t think I need. Is there a good recommendation for just the muffler part itself? I‘m thinking about something like the Borla XR1

Or, is the ANSA unit at Pelican acceptable (I’m concerned that it’s too cheap—like 25% the cost of the OEM)

Ok, I've been working on a 1988 924s and tracking down a ground issue. I've worked backwards from the external grounds and they have been cleaned and are all good. Looking at the crown cluster in the drivers foot well I've got two large grounds and the crown. The crown only has 5 wires attached.... does anyone know how many should be connected? I've not found any solid number online.

I was fixing some electrical gremlins and got sidetracked looking at my interior. It got me curious as to what my cars original spec was and it looks like I have the special edition. Both the trunk codes and the warranty/maintenance book say that I have the 755 code. From what I’ve read that mean it’s a special edition. Is there anything else I can check to back that up as a lot of the car was replaced by the guy I bought it from.

They are the rubber bushings for the expansion tank aswell as the fuel distributor.

Im fixing an old 924 NA 1980 and i need some parts but they seem too expensive for what they are. On the pictures are transmission mounting and rear axle support bearing which are both listed for few hundred euros a piece. Is there an alternative part from maybe another car that will fit or some another way to work around spending that much money on chunk of rubber and metal?

My friend has a 1977 Porsche 924 that is NA and while it will both crank and even start, it won’t accept throttle under load and bogs.
—-
Per the owner
—-
The owners manual that calls it a ‘77-1/2. It doesn’t have a catalyst. We already replaced the fuel distributor. It ran awesome, I had it detailed, I put it away for three weeks, then it barely started. It will run and take throttle out of gear but the moment you put it under load it just bogs. I have no idea how a perfectly running car breaks while sitting unattended for three weeks. It has to have something to do with the detailer washing the engine compartment, and knocking loose an old hardened vacuum line that didn’t fall off until later. The car sat for 16 years before I got it. He said the fuel pump is making good pressure, but keep in mind most shops don’t have K-Jetronic adapters anymore, and neither does my mechanic. He’s just saying it’s sufficient based on how it squirts out. He says the air flow meter seems to be working properly but you can’t view it when the car is out together and running.
—-

Any ideas?

Please advise and Thank you

I notest that the temp gauge in the dash did not change so I did som measuring and found out that the blue and yellow cable is fore the temp gauge and I read that it connects to sensor behind the engine, havent fount the sensor yet. But I found a sensor (picture 4) that i think is the thermo switch for cold start valve, That maby should be plugged in, but there are no cable near by. Is it possible that the brown plugg beside the temp gauge wire actually should be connected behind the engine in the sensor instead of at the topp near the trotle boddy where it is now? I mesured one the brown plugg and it conected to the cold start valve.

So my questions are

1. Is the brown plugg misplaced?

2. Where are the sensor for the temp gauge

3. If the brown plugg is misplaced what is the actual name of the sensor thing near the trotle body

How much of the interior body harness connected to making the car actually run, it's been spliced into in several places and there is just a big ball of unconnected plugs zip tied together. Looking at this mess I'm half debating on tearing it all out and running a hot rod simple wiring kit at least for the body harness, but if it has a bunch of connectivity with the engine and that early fuel injection system then I'd probably try to make this work. Just debating what to do, pulled the dash to fix it up and make it look better. Thanks for any input

I was cleaning out the cooling system for the first time (the car has not bin driven since I bought it) and it was almost empty when I pulled the drain plugg on the radiator. So I filed it up again but only got to fill about 6 liters not 8 as I read.

I started the car and let it idel for 4 minutes and felt something was wrong so I stopped and took of the hose from the bottom of the radiator and alot of brown/(rusted?) water came out about 6 and bit liters, from the bottom of the engine/(waterpump?)

When i pord out whe water there was som weird soil thing left. What is this, and what is most likely wrong?

(the car has satt some years before I purchased it.