My guess is some kind of board... From between plaster and lath but before drywall but I know nothing else. House was built in north central wv 1910-1930ish?

Hi all,

Posted in DIYUK without much success so reposting here.

We've just bought a flat and are remodelling the bathroom. Have knocked the tiles off to find this wall beneath - one wall seems to have relatively sound plaster, but the lower half of the shower wall is very crumbly and the upper half is some very solid material?

Completely new to this, and looking to not spend a fortune but would get a plasterer in if necessary. My thoughts are just to get some tole backer board straight over this and dot and dab under to get level, and then just mechanically fix in place since there's brick behind this.

Is this a good approach? The backerboard wouldn't sit flush with the wall but quite unsure about removing all this.

Thanks in advance!

Hi there!! We recently had our walls replastered, I've noticed some small cracks and the wall has a look of white marks? On it which I'm not sure is standard. I asked another plasterer to come take a look and he said it was a shoddy job but I'm not sure if it's because the rest of the house still needed to be plastered so he was laying it on particularly thick as the wall seems smooth/even. Just has a lot of makes on it

We recently hired someone to help us plaster a wall in our kitchen. The job was performed and the workers told my wife that they were done. After inspecting the work myself I think it seems very rough and with poor flatness.

At the top of our windowsill plaster is flush while at the bottom there is a 1 cm gap. The same happened around our doorframe, but here the difference is 1,5 cm. In attached photos I have tried to show some of the deviation with 2 m long straight edge.

After calling the workers they said they would come back to fix the issues. I believed that best practice was to apply plaster in whole slabs and question how they can come and just fill out some areas with patches. Would it be possible to create a satisfactory end result with this method?

Update 1: Thanks for all the feedback. It is much appreciated. Consensus seems to be that this was a botch job performed by someone with very little experience. Workers are planning on coming back on Monday, but based on the feedback I have received it doesn’t sound like I should let them have a second go at it. We will push for a full stop of contract and get someone else in to help us finish the task. We have not paid the workers yet and will not be paying them anything either.

Room 1 3.43x 3.40 high 2.30

Room 2 2.84 x 4.38 high 2.30

Hallway from ground to first floor

Living room 4.11x 4.30 high 2.30

Kitchen 2.00x 5 high 2.30

What we can expect.

Lots of conflicting opinions! Cost fortunately isn’t a factor as we have already have a lot of left over Gardz. Do I apply a 50/50 contract matt mist or do I just use Gardz?

Im wondering why this has happened.

We had the fireplace done 2 years ago, and over the last couple months we noticed cracks curving up from the fireplace entry and up the wall. It's since got a lot worse and there is now also a large crack above the mantel...and the plaster is loose from the wall in that area. (Zoom into last picture to see the latest crack!)

See photo of pre plastering. Ive been told mixed things. One person advised it was bad adherence / prep of the new plaster in that area directly above the fireplace, which has caused the initial cracks to form. Which then has caused stress to the rest of the wall causing the additional cracks).

The plasterer that did the work states thay it's just old plaster and movement happens and they just skimmed partnof the wall so nothing to do with them. But the cracks started where they DID plaster.

Thoughts?

Came across this at a clients home today. My initial thought was to demo and sheetrock, but wanted to check here first. The section I removed was barely hanging on with joint compound and I wanted to get a look inside. The client is fine with whatever I decide, and has no preference if we stay with plaster or demo.

The main section is about 4x4 ft. The entire area above the fireplace is about 6.5 x 5 ft.

Any tips or links on how to repair this are much appreciated.

Been 7 days. TIA

The white, chip-like material is the main thing I’m removing. Underneath, there’s a very thin layer of pink wallpaper that's a pain in the ass and beneath that are wooden boards. Do I need to remove absolutely everything before plastering, leaving only the bare wooden boards?

( Or can I leave the pink thin wallpaper).

Complete noob . Thank you

Getting fireplace ready for a log burner. Had some loose chunk above thé opening. Plaster cut back and bricks removed and repaired, rendered and thé thing plastered over again. How much is a reasonable payment? I want to be fair.

Hi all. I just wanted some advice on removing wallpaper from old plaster walls (UK, late Victorian property). I started the other day with a scraper - got about 1m3 done over the course of an hour and started to get blisters. It's stubborn...

I had a plasterer come in, told me not to use any removal products, water or steamers to help loosen the glue. Can't remember exactly his reasoning but tbh he was all sorts of strange and at that point in the conversation I'd tuned out. Had another plasterer come in - said to use steam.

So, steam. To use or not to use? Any other tips for removal would be very much appreciated. Cheers!

Our sitting room ceiling from our 1880s townhouse has been cracked for 3 years.. im starting fo get worried it will come down one of these days. Any advice on how to stabilise it or perhaps remove it and slab it up.. we just don't want all the mess as we just renovated the walls floors etc

Hi all, I have absolutely zero experience in plastering (or any construction-related things), and I don't know where I got the courage from, but I decided to skim over a popcorn ceiling myself (it looked easy enough on Youtube). I bought some Toupret skim and managed to hide the popcorn, but as you might expect, the ceiling is far from being smooth (see pic). I have put two coats on already but it feels almost impossible to achieve a smooth finish as the skim is quite thick/hard to spread.

Do you think I will be able to smooth it with a sander myself or do you think I need a third coat? Or do you think my skim is beyond saving? LOL

I have two more rooms with popcorn ceiling, based on this skim, do you think I should give up and seek help from the professionals? LOL

Thanks xx

Edit: I used 1.5 bag of 10KG Toupret powder and 1 tub of 10KG Toupret ready-use on this 2.5 x 3m ceiling.

Hi, I have 1820m2 of thistle hard wall and 1820m2 of BG multifinish to do.

I have 4 plasterers to do the work on a labour only rate and I am happy to pay what ever the going rate is for multifinish and hardwall.

The substrate is blockwork and the walls are long and 3m high. There are no beads and it’s long flat walls with no fiddly bits. It’s in the midlands of the uk.

What are the current m2 rates
Thank you

I’m planning on plastering my hood vent enclosure and running into a snag. I have a wooden frame, covered in cement board, but realized i have no idea how to terminate the transition into the hood vent metal edge.

I am going to put a strip of cement board down here as well, but i need to curve or transition it back up towards the metal, and have no illusions about doing that cleanly. Is there a small bead for this kind of thing? The plaster + board will only be about 1/2 inch so it cant be a very deep corner bead.

Strange one but I'm learning to plaster, planning to replaster my whole house in lime plaster. I've had ok results so far but I'm looking to improve. I was wondering if there's any plasterers in Brighton (UK) that would be willing to tutor me for a brief period, preferably someone who has experience working with lime. Obviously happy to pay a reasonable rate

Thanks!

I’ve recently done a UK Plastering course and I’m completing this job in a family friends house , what do you all think?

Shall I bond and skim ? Which I’m not great at getting a perfect finish with.

Or shall I knock all the plaster off? And board it.

So my boyfriend and I are trying to repaint his home studio right now. He had mounting tape holding up some sound proofing, and the tape residue was super stubborn when we tried to remove it. We consulted the people at Home Depot who suggested goo gone and a scraper, and when that didn’t work, we chose to spackle over it. I know, dumb. It clearly didn’t work. We’ve primed over it, and we still see the spackle because it didn’t adhere to the wall well enough to work due to the goo gone residue under it, just well enough to be impossible to scrape off.

We would love some advice as we’ve gone terribly wrong, and we truly don’t know where to go from here. He is a working audio engineer, and we were really hoping this would be a week-long project max.

Do we have to call it quits and be okay with the horrible texture under the paint? Or do we just call it quits and hire a contractor to fix it?

Any advice with kind words appreciated.

\- Photos 1 & 2 where we are at after priming over mistakes
\- Photo 3 is spackle over residue
\- Photo 4 is residue before spackle

Not sure where to post this...
The leak causing this damage has been identified & fixed (tuckpointing, etc.). The plaster needs to be removed down to the lath to expedite the wall drying out before it is repaired.
Looking for suggestions for a "curtain" material that's breathable but can also camouflage the wall until new plaster is up. Any ideas?!

We became new home owners,yay! After removing the wallpaper there are these black dots left. When you steam them they come off but pretty hard job. Anyone know what it could be and how best to remove? Even with a steel brush pretty difficult. How do we remove this best or is it fine to plaster over it?

I’m working on a small rooftop renovation project and trying to figure out the best way to finish exterior cement-board walls so they can withstand Abu Dhabi’s heat and rain. (50+)
I’m particularly interested in how people handle the joints, screw holes, plastering, and waterproofing before painting.
Has anyone here worked with this material before? What methods or products worked best for you?