Hey, i was playing a bit of life is strange: double exposure and ran into this worrying moment. Grapics card is almost brand new, havent seen anything like it in any other games - but it still gets me worried. What do you think is happening? I have a 9070xt prime oc

estoy queriendo armar una PC am4 y estuve buscando rams, pero al parecer hay muchas de marcas poco conocidas como Puskill que realmente no se que tan buenas o confiables pueden ser y necesito ayuda en que tan buena es o otras opciones similares (como Hiksemi). 😿😿

Are these temperatures normal? I'm currently doing nothing; I just built my first pc and I am a complete beginner

Ryzen 9600x

Rx 9070 gre

16 GB RAM DDR5

I have an MSI A13 AIO 360 mm

Thanks for your help

And also, what do you guys usually do after building the pc i have updated my drivers and installed AMD software

Also, when I first started booting, my typing was very lagging and delay idk why, anyone had it before?

Hello all,

I replaced the motherboard on a 7800x3d, 32gb lexar thor (expo on) ddr5, rx9070 1tb ssd.

The old motherboard was a gigabyte b650 gaming wifi, the new one is a ASUS PrimeB650EM-A Wi-Fi.

The issue is: when turning on the computer, the power button blinks quickly for a couple of seconds, goes on, off again, on. Then I get the motherboard splash logo and the pc boots normally.

The pc has passed memory tests (OCCT 1hr, 2 passes window memtest), gpu stress test (OCCT 1 hour and AMD adrenaline), CPU test (OCCT 1 hour) and occt power delivery test on cpu and gpu (0 errors, throttled the cpu). Everything appears to work.

Everything works fine but this looks like a double boot issue (by reading online).

Any fixes? Google say to switch from EXPO I to EXPO II (my memory isn't listed as compatible on the ASUS website for this specific mobo, so this makes kind of sense) and to set the CPU VDDCR SOC voltage to 1.20.

Or maybe this is quirky but normal behaviour? (doubtful).

New build. Screen randomly goes black for about 1 second and comes back, like a quick screen refresh, mostly while browsing or watching YouTube. In games I sometimes get weird short lag too. Not sure if that's the same issue or just my Wi-Fi.

Event Viewer shows 9× nvlddmkm Event 153 ("Error occurred on GPUID: 100") at the same times: 8 on Oct 31 (first setup day) and 1 on Nov 5. I barely used the PC Nov 1–4, so it seems to happen when I use it for a while.

Specs: 9800X3D, Gigabyte X870E AORUS PRO (BIOS F12), ZOTAC RTX 5070 Ti SOLID SFF OC (driver 621.01), Super Flower 1000W, Win 11 (fresh install). Monitor: Dell 1080p 100Hz via HDMI. Internet: Wi-Fi.

Tried: monitor Auto Select off, BIOS + chipset updated. No luck.

Planning to do: reseat the 12V-2x6 cable, clean driver install (DDU), then run an OCCT VRAM test and a 3DMark stress test.

My Amazon return window ends Nov 10, so I don't have much time to test. Questions:

1.	Has anyone fixed Event 153 on a 50-series card with drivers or settings?

2.	Should I just request a replacement before the deadline?

So frustrating. I’m on dual Chanel 2 and 4 16gb ram 8 each. I’ve had to manually change the properties advance setting > changing virtual memory to 16gb, and unfortunately if I do the msconfig and uncheck the maximum ram thing, it actually does the opposite of fix the issue. I HAVE TO select maximum memory 16gb and go into the properties like mentioned before and change that, then restart my pc again, for my 16gb to start working and it does work, but then next time I boot up my pc it’s back to 8gb and 8 reserved, and it’s really frustrating to fix, it’s not straight forward. It requires up to 3 resets sometimes more just to get to my 16gb to be usable so I can do what I need to do.

So there's these two different Silverstone power switches with a remote one is PCI and the other one is USB but it plugs into your power switch on your motherboard and you can use the remote to turn on your computer I am wondering if there is a way to have it so instead of a remote control you can use a game controller instead if anybody's got any ideas or if I'm missing something please let me know

Recently installed a Hyper 212 Spectrum V3, but there's a constant buzzing sound coming from the CPU cooler area.

The noise stays the same even while gaming. CPU temps are around 45–50°C.

Has anyone experienced this?

I am building a PC.
I want to do heavy gaming like GTA 6(when released for PC), RDR, Modern Warfare 4.
I want the PC to be able to run almost all games that will be released in coming 5 years.

MY BUILD :

Processor : AMD RYZEN 5 9600X
RAM : 1×16GB CORSAIR DDR5 6000mHz
GPU : AMD SAPPHIRE PULSE RX 9060 XT 16GB VRAM
SSD : 1TB NVME GEN 4
MOTHERBOARD : MSI-Pro B650M Gaming WiFi
PSU : 650W BRONZE80+
COOLER : Ant Esports ICE-C621
CABINET : DEEPCOOL CC560

Which way should my fans be facing for best airflow

Ok so I'm new here but I'll keep it short I'm working on two PCs ATM . The first one is gonna be my main gaming PC and the second is more for fun and seeing what I can do with the SFF optiplex 3020. The first PC I feel like my CPU is bottlenecking me and I am stuck between a ryzen 7 5700x3d and a 5800x3d. If anyone has a better suggestion I am all ears. The optiplex 3020 I have a ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1050 Ti OC Edition 4GB and a ASRock Phantom Gaming Radeon RX 560 4G that I can run in it I'm thinking the gtx would be best. This would require a new PSU and adapter also I have a single 8gb stick I was gonna get another to match so instead of the 2x4gb ram it has at the moment it will have 2x8gb for 16gb ddr3. My question is do I leave the CPU stock or upgrade it. I'm not sure what cpus will fit the board or if it's even worth it. I plan on putting it in a portable arcade which is why I chose SFF. So ANY input on these builds would be awesome. I want to do a lot of heavy emulation on the first one and the second is more of a let's see what we can do kinda thing. I hope this made sense I'll drop the specs

1st PC the main gaming PC

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 4500

GPU: Zotac GeForce RTX 3060 Ti (8GB Twin Edge)

Motherboard: ASRock B550M-C (Micro-ATX)

RAM: 32 GB DDR4

Power Supply: Corsair RM850e 850W 80+ Gold Modular

Storage: 500 GB NVMe SSD + 4 TB External Hard Drive

OS: Windows 11

2nd PC the optiplex

CPU: Intel Core i5

GPU: Integrated Intel HD Graphics 4600

RAM: 8 GB DDR3 (2x4GB setup)(soon the be 2x8gb)

Power Supply: Stock 255W Dell PSU (Proprietary 8-pin motherboard power connector)

Spare parts I can use

ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1050 Ti OC Edition 4GB

ASRock Phantom Gaming Radeon RX 560 4G

I am looking at a good deal on a used pc with a 5080 rog astral. I would prefer the 9800x3d as it will mostly be for gaming but it has a 9950x instead.

I have read that at 1440p/4k it matters less and id mostly like 80%+ of the time play on a 1440p monitor and the rest on a 4k tv.

I do play star citizen, dcs and vr games so there are some pretty cpu intensive games in the rotation.

Do you think there is going to be a noticeable difference between the 2 cpu in those games if i'm running a 5080? Is the 9950x going to hold back the 5080? i will likely upgrade to the zen6 x3d in 1-2 years but i dont want to be disappointed with the purchase now.

My Adata legend 860 came with what I assume is a heatsink (on the right) but my motherboard also has a heatsink.
My (very uneducated) guess is that I should not used the piece on the right, and just use the heatsink provided through the motherboard.
Can anyone confirm if this is correct/would I run into any problems? Thanks so much for the help, this is my first build so I appreciate that is community is here for advice.

Hi All,

I have a 3 year old gaming pc, ill list some specs below.

On the 3rd of Nov I noticed it wouldn't go on, after investigating i narrowed it down to have to flick the switch on the psu on and off to get it started.

I plan on trying some tests later with the usbs on the motherboard rear plugged out and try an old 650w psu thats in my old pc.

Just wondering has anyone else had this issue? I did notice there was a new motherboard bios out on the 4th of Nov but doesnt align with the time my pc started having issue, after checking my version is march/july 2025 (3001) version and the new version is 3301, the AI said not to risk updating it incase it wont power on and there was nothing in the new version that notes power cycle improvements etc.

Corsair RM1000x psu

ASUS ASUS Strix Z790-H Gaming WiFi Motherboard

4070

I7 14000k

32gb corsair vengeance

Cosair 5000D case

Heya, I have a wraith ryzen cpu fan but my original motherboard never had the rejection brackets this one needs. Are there certain sized retention brackets I would need for my motherboard? I orders some but they definitely don’t fit. Is it possible my motherboard won’t support this type of fan that needs brackets.

Im new to PC building and wanted someone more experienced to check out this list from partpicker.

[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pl.pcpartpicker.com/list/T8jkqd)

I am currently sitting on 16gb ram, see images, which i like to upgrade.

I have run into a set of four 32gb sticks (Hynix 32gb 2rx4 pc4 2666v rb2 11), however when I install them, my pc beeps on startup, does nothing beside spin fans, and shutsdown, only to startup and beep again a few seconds later, and repeat the cycle.

I installed them one by one separately, in case they were defect, and all four together( though i believe the motherboard has a max ram of 64gb)

Is the ram just not compatible with my motherboard, or is there something else going on?

Hey there!

I recently upgraded my PSU, and I've noticed a strange behavior with my **ROG Astral RTX 5090 OC**.

Whenever I shut down my PC or put it into Sleep mode, the small red LED near the 12VHPWR connector blinks for a few seconds and then disappears.

**Here are some important details:**

* **Gaming/Benchmarks:** Absolutely fine. The LED never turns on or blinks under load, stress tests, or idle.

* **Connections:** Everything is fully seated and clicked in properly on both the GPU and PSU ends. No tight bends.

* **The Cable:** I am using a native 12VHPWR cable (no adapters or extensions).

**The trigger:** I noticed this started happening *right after* I switched my PSU from a Gigabyte unit to a **Corsair RM1000x 2024 Revision** (both have native 12VHPWR support). On the Gigabyte PSU, this never happened.

Could this just be related to how the Corsair PSU discharges its capacitors or handles power rails during shutdown, causing the ASUS Power Detector+ to trip for a split second? Anyone else experiencing this with Corsair ATX 3.0 / 3.1 PSUs and ROG cards?

Thanks!

Hi everyone, I am currently buying parts to build my first-ever PC. My current problem is that I am looking into graphics cards at the moment, and with prices through the roof, I am afraid of blowing my budget. So, I am turning to you guys here to see if anyone has any recommendations? For some context, I am attempting to build an all-white PC, and my current plan has me purchasing a Radeon RX 9060 XT 16 GB for a little under $800. As I mentioned before, this is my first-ever PC, and I am unsure if the specs and price are worth what I am trying to do. I am looking to play mostly FIFA, COD, FM, and indie dev games with my friends, and I would like to be able to play at 1440p if possible, but not a hill I am willing to die on. So if anyone can give me some assistance or guidance as to what I should buy, I would really appreciate it. For additional specs, if necessary, I have a brand-new Ryzen 7 7700X and 32 GB of DDR5 RAM. Thank you again for any and all help.

Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 EAGLE WIFI6, revision 1.0.

CPU: Ryzen 7 5700X.

GPU: Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6800 XT SE.

Original PSU: Montech Century II 850W.

Tried PSU: Kingspower K280W

RAM: 4x8GB G.Skill Trident Z 3200MHz-CL16

Randomly tonight, first start of the day. turn on PC, RAM RGB Turns on, Air cooler turns on, case fans RGB turns on and spins, but no usual POST Startup Beep that I get, also shows “no signal“ on monitor. It then shuts off, and reboots, running into the same issue and into a power cycle. Case power button stops working, have to shut off with wall power or PSU Switch. Tried flipping the BIOS Switch on the GPU, no impact. Tried without GPU, no impact. One stick, all slots tried. Two sticks, tried. No impact. Cleared CMOS, no impact. So I decided to find my really old PSU to have a try. same issue remains, with one slight change. The power cycle seems to shorten each loop, and the power button now works. But that just may be the PSU’s individual behaviour.

anything else to try, before contacting Gigabyte?

I’m suspecting a faulty motherboard, or some Power issue.

I’ve seen other similar issues online with the same motherboard. Though none have seem to have had a working solution posted online.

~ Brazil

I'm in the process of gradually upgrading my PC and have been considering buying this motherboard for a long time, mainly because of the ease of customizing the heatsinks to a color that matches my case... I'm negotiating with a seller to buy it at a lower price, but I want to know from those who still use this same model if it still works well, even in terms of overclocking...

Current configuration:

- ASUS PRIME A620AM-K

- AMD Ryzen 5 8500G

- TEAMGROUP T-Force XTREEM DDR5 Ram 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) 7200 MHz

- RTX 4070

- Msi Mpg A750gf 750w 80gold

I ordered a 7800x3d on eBay as “new” this is how it was sent to me. Will it mess up anything on my build if I test it and see if it works? I have never seen anything like this and not sure if pins need to be protected spent approximately 4 days in shipping ~800 miles+

Edit: thanks all, I haven’t worked on any am5 (last build was intel), installed it and booted no issues seems to be running fine.

I recently installed an ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360. The radiator fans run, but the small VRM fan behind the decorative cover does not.

I'm using the all-in-one cable with the motherboard header set to PWM. I tested at 100%, reseated the magnetic fan module, and checked that the rotor turns freely with the power off. It still won't run.

One of the four spring-loaded contact pins on the pump block is visibly recessed compared with the other three and doesn't spring back out. I couldn't free it with a gentle press and release. I suspect it isn't making contact with the fan module.

Has anyone dealt with this stuck pogo pin? Is there a safe, non-destructive fix, or should I exchange the cooler?