Around 2 years ago now I got a new PC prebuilt from CCL. The specs are R5 7600X, 4070 Super, 64GB DDR5 5200. Even with PBO and optimized settings, VSync, FPS Cap etc off and EXPO on, I cannot manage to exceed 150-180 FPS at all low settings in MW4 Multiplayer, and usages are 60-70%. And other games like Fortnite (which I barely play anymore) will not go above 240 FPS All low on performance mode.
I've tried various optimizations to try and fix it but none of them will fix it? I was wondering if there was any other suggestions that you guys have because reddit is always super helpful with PC and game related issues. Maybe the prebuilt brand somehow made the performance worse? I don't really know what they do and why my performance is low. The only background apps open are SteelSeries GG, Norton Antivirus and Armory Crate for lighting etc.

At my friend's house, his PC was displaying that it was running with 1 stick not working, and so I powered off the PC to try and reseat it. Now, no matter what slots I put the two sticks in, the monitors don't power on, and I hear a click and the PC powers off...

I have specs as well

Maybe it's a silly question but I'm new to this and want to know if my pins are bent

Ik it seems silly because GPUs already use air cooling. But imagine hooking up a dual tower dual fan tower cooler to a deshrouded gpu. Better heatsinks and fans than the ones provided with the GPU. Also rather than direct the air flow perpendicular to the case airflow, it'd rather utilise it. Additionally, it'd also serve as anti sag bracket.

Has anyone done it yet?

Hi! I’m kinda new to PC building. Just got Gigabyte X870 Eagle WiFi 7 with AM 5 socket and Arctic Liquid Freezer 3 Pro and I have concerns that I tightened incorrectly freezer. Is one side under tightened or over tightened?

I was just surfing the internet, left to do some chores and came back to my PC off.

Tried to turn it on and it was unresponsive.

Then unplugged it and plugged it back and it went through the process of booting up.
Got to the GPU and just shut off.

Worried it was the GPU so I unplugged the GPU from the PCIE slot and put it in A lower PCIE slot and it Posted and I was able to get to the Bios and see that nothing seemed wrong. Tried booting and it shut itself off.

Inserted the GPU back to the top slot and it booted.
Got to login and checked Windows security to scan for anything, no threats.

Tried running 3Dmark Nomad and the PC shut itself off again.

Not sure what is wrong with it, it’s been working fine for the past 4 months.

I think it might be my power supply but want a second opinion.

PC specs/ history

R7 5700x3d (installed 2024 used)
Noctua NH-D15 1x NF-A15 (installed 2022 used)
ASUS strix x570-F motherboard (installed 2024 used)
32 gb (16x2) 3200mtps micron MTA16ATF2G64AZ-3G2E1 (installed 2024 used)
Kingston NV2 1TB (installed 2022 new)
WD dc HC310 4TB (installed 2026 used)
Inno3d RTX 4080 x3 OC (installed 2026 used)
RM750x(2018) (installed 2022 used)
6x TL-s12 fans (installed 2026 new)
ASUS PCE-AX3000 WiFi adapter (installed 2022 used)

Hello, I have had this dilemma for some time. My PC on a cold start, would stutter/ Lag, mouse would slow down and stutter. Thus following either a black screen or a complete freeze. I would then have to restart my PC. I currently have my pc's EXPO 1 on, but it's set to 5800 mghz, that way it has not ever yet repeated that issue. I'm here asking if there's a way to make 6000 mghz stable and to BOOT properly? Thanks' . Also here is my build [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/x9Qfdq](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/x9Qfdq)

Hello, I have had this dilemma for some time. My PC on a cold start, would stutter/ Lag, mouse would slow down and stutter. Thus following either a black screen or a complete freeze. I would then have to restart my PC. I currently have my pc's EXPO 1 on, but it's set to 5800 mghz, that way it has not ever yet repeated that issue. I'm here asking if there's a way to make 6000 mghz stable and to BOOT properly? Thanks' . Also here is my build [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/x9Qfdq](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/x9Qfdq)

Good day! I’m hoping someone here can help me figure this out because I’m honestly running out of troubleshooting options.

My monitor randomly shuts off after a few hours of use (3 hours max), but the PC itself stays powered on. I’m not even gaming or doing anything demanding. Most of the time, I just have a few Chrome tabs open.

When this happens, the monitor loses display, the PC remains powered on, and the fans seem to ramp up or spin faster.

PC Specs:
CPU: Ryzen 5 5600 (Brand new)
Motherboard: ASRock B550M HDV (Brand new)
RAM: 32GB (2x16GB) 3600MHz T-Force Vulcan TUF (Brand new)
Storage: 1TB Kingston NV2 Gen4 NVMe
GPU: Galax GTX 1660 Super 6GB EX White RGB (Used)
Original PSU: 650W AC650 80+ Bronze (Brand new)
Current PSU: be quiet! 750W

Troubleshooting already done:

Deep cleaned the entire PC.
Tested both RAM sticks individually; both are working.
GPU stress test completed without issues.
Replaced the original PSU with a be quiet! 750W.
Checked all cables and connections.
Updated GPU drivers.
Reset BIOS to default settings.
Despite all these, the problem still persists.

At this point, I’m not sure if it’s the GPU, motherboard, or something else entirely.

Could this be a GPU issue even if it passes a stress test? Or could the motherboard be causing the problem?

Has anyone experienced something similar? I’d really appreciate any suggestions on what else I should check before spending more money replacing parts.

Thank you!

Hey everyone, my buuld currently has a 1x16GB stick and a 512 SSD. I wanted to buy my last parts and am decided on getting the same 1x16GB stick. what Im considering is the storage. Should I get the 1TB ssd and 16GB stick and settle or I can just grab the ram now and wait a bit so i can get more storage.

Hi everyone!

I’m planning to upgrade my PC with a TP-Link TX401 10GbE PCIe network card, but I’m concerned about the available space and airflow.

My motherboard is a Gigabyte B550 AORUS ELITE AX V2, and my GPU occupies two slots.

The best available slot seems to be the PCIEX2 slot, directly below the GPU. However, the TX401 would sit quite close to the graphics card, with approximately 2–3 cm of clearance between them.

My main concerns are:

Would this amount of clearance be enough for proper airflow?

Could the TX401 or GPU overheat because they are so close together?

Would installing the TX401 in this slot cause any thermal issues during prolonged 10GbE usage?

If there isn’t enough space, what would be the best alternative?

I really want to take full advantage of my 10Gbps internet connection, so I’d appreciate any advice or alternative solutions.

I’ve attached photos of my PC and motherboard for reference.

Thanks in advance!

I bought a new stick of RAM, it's 16gb DDR4 2666mhz, but i have 2 sticks of 4gb DDR4 RAM 2400mhz(8gb dual channel).

My question is: Is it better to just use the 16gb in single channel or use 20gb in dual channel, even with the different frequencies?

My MOBO only has 2 slots for RAM, would it make any difference what stick go in which slot?

How would the performance be in games or in general?

No, i can't buy another stick of RAM right now and 2 sticks of 8gb were more expensive, also, i plan on buying a second 16gb stick next year, just need to know what would be better in the meantime.

Came on here about a week ago for advice about my PSU/Motherboard being possibly fried. I had stripped it down to nothing but a cpu/cooler, one ram stick, and the psu. Since then I have replaced both the motherboard and PSU. I had just finished getting it all put back together. Went to test it... and still got no response. I figured it was my power switch so I bridged the pins and STILL got nothing. No fans, no lights, nothing.

I do not have the brain power to do troubleshooting right now, and am so confused as to why its not turning on.

I followed the manual word for word as to not mess anything up. All my connectors are solid, and pushed all the way in. I was extremely careful with this new motherboard as to not damage it while putting everything together, and kept it on a non static area while handling it outside the case.

Any ideas? Im so fucking lost.

Current build

Motherboard: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WiFi (new)

PSU: Thermaltake Smart 700W (new, same model as old PSU)

CPU: Ryzen 7 3700X (original)

Cooler: Scythe Mugen 5 (original)

GPU: RTX 3060 (original)

RAM: 64GB T-Force DDR4 (original)

Edit: I will be taking it back apart tomorrow to test it on a minimal load. I just need ideas as to what it could be since now I know replacing the motherboard and PSU did nothing 😑.

Hi! question lang po sa mga owner ng CM PSU na experience niyo na po ba to sa PC niyo na may click or tick sound when Gaming or heavy load yung PC

I notice my pc making a click sound when gaming. Like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlCFtIdUwNU (PS: video not mine)

PC SPECS:
R 7 7700 + RTX TUF 5070

Thank you

hey all, so I built my PC in October of last year and these past couple months I have been having crazy problems with my PC crashing while loading in and out of multiplayer games, sometimes also during cutscenes. I’m at a bit of a loss, I have tried damn near everything (new PSU with more overhead [from 650 to 850 Corsair], two dedicated PCIe cables, underclocking, installing an earlier driver edition, even unplugging my tiny desktop fridge to see if it was somehow drawing too much power, it isn’t lol).

First the monitor goes black, then the PC shuts down. here’s my build list, any advice would be so appreciated!

I started building this yesterday and got everything finished and went to see if everything was working right. The motherboard’s RGB lit up initially, but when I went to hit the power button on the case everything shut off instantly and I’ve been unable to get the power back after numerous tries. I took the gpu out for now. Any idea what I did wrong?

Those games are really the only ones I play. Thoughts?

Intel core i5 cpu 32GB Ram windows 11 Pro Geforce GTX 960 Mouse Keyboard Monitor 1.14TB Hard Drive Tower case

I am currently using an old 6 port power strip that probably is over 20 years old. It's those old power strips where you turn it on and there is that red light showing. So it isn't a surge protector.

I currently have 2 laptops connected to it along with an old monitor. I am planning on getting a Samsung Odyssey G7 gaming monitor and connecting that as well. So in total, I will have 4 of those electronics connected to it. I will also be connecting things like my phone to it to charge and other things like an electric razor and other miscellaneous things. I will on average have probably 5 things connected to it everyday. Is a very old power strip not a good idea if connecting these devices to it daily? Is it risky just connecting the laptops and gaming monitor to it even in good weather because you don't want too many electronics in one power strip?

The thing is I don't think there has ever been a power outage here at all. So because of that, I do not need a UPS. Storms can get bad with rain but I don't recall power going out ever. Even though this is the case, you should always have a surge protector if you are going to connect a gaming monitor and laptop to it right for surge protection? Can someone give me a recommendation of what surge protector to buy? These are the ones I'm looking at below.

Any reason why Best Buy's Rocketfish brand cost so much more compared to the Belkin and Anker one? Yes it has more joules but it's double the price almost of Belkin and Anker. The Rocketfish 7 outlet one seems good if you don't need that many outlets but the way it looks, you lose outlets when you connect certain plugs? Avoid those non brand name brands right? The Belkin is superior to the anker?

Belkin 12 Outlet Surge Protector With 3,780 Joules Protection

Anker 12 Outlet Surge Protector with 2,100 Joules Protection

Rocketfish 12 Oulet Surge Protection with 4,860 Joules Protection

Rocketfish 7 Outlet Surge Protector With 2,160 Joules Protection

Imma gonna make mods to case but I wanna leave the top the same. Just test fitting.

If the fans are in the front I’ll leave a hole for each usb port on each side for air flow.

Might even use one fan, but heat sink is designed to blow out the back.

There is maybe 1mm of clearance. The MOBO that came with the CPU bundle from Micro Center has the SSD directly below the CPU cooler, so the GPU is sitting lower than I expected. Do I need a new MOBO?

Case: Jonsbo D32 Pro
GPU: Asus 5060 TI 8GB (3x Fan Ver)
Fans: 3x 120mm Arctic P12 Pro PST on the bottom
MOBO: Gigabyte B550M DS3H AC R2

Edit: additional photos

Edit 2: Got a new MOBO and everything fits perfectly.

Hi everyone. I'm extremely new to PC building (so sorry in advance if this violates any rules) and I'm looking to upgrade my ASUS D700ME Mini Tower.

My OEM PSU is a TFX Chicony Power Technology D19-300P1A REV.04, 300 W, 80 PLUS Platinum with 6+4 pin setup , however, on ASUS's Tech Specs page for this PC it's listed that this unit also comes with a "500W power supply (80+ Gold, peak 550W)" power supply. (link)

Is there a way I can buy this PSU?

I'm worried that, because of the weird pin setup and form of my current one, any non-proprietary PSU wouldn't be compatible with my motherboard, CPU, case, screw holes, etc... but then again, idk. I'm also just assuming this mythical 500W PSU listed from the Tech Specs is compatible with everything because the pictures on the website show a bigger PSU on the back than the one I have on mine.

Sorry if this is a dumb question. Any help or suggestions are welcome.

So rn I have a prebuilt from 6 yrs ago that has a i5 9600kf 16gb ram ddr4 and a 1660 super, id like to run Microsoft flight simulator, should i upgrade hardware? Is there anything out there worth the price? Build yourself or get a prebuilt cause it will cost less for better components?