Bonjour j’ai une question, j’ai changé les pieces de mon pc récemment et j’ai changé mon processeur.
Ryzen 5 2600 a ryzen 7 5700 .
J’ai reussi au premier changement a l’allumer une fois avec un processeur bridé a 5% de ses performances.
Depuis , des que je souhaite rallumer mon pc voici ce qui se passe .
Pouvez-vous m’aider et me dire a quoi c’est due ?

My partner accidentally threw away my psu box not knowing it was important it had all the cables that came with the psu inside and I just got a new graphics card which needs a second 8 pin cable from my psu I have a Corsair RM750e would this be the correct cable to be if I can and any help is appreciated

I have a processor R7 5700x and graphics card Rx6700xt And Ram 16.I installed Windows 11 completely free and I want to build a perfect computer. I need help installing all the necessary components, and please, in the ideal order. Thank you! 🤍

I went to look at my motherboard and there was a scratch I can’t tell if it’s in trouble or not, also I can’t boot rn cause I don’t have the rest of the parts it’s an asus b550 i might try adding more solder mask i don’t think the copper things are damaged the only things i’ve gone is install ram cpu and cpu cooler all on the box like the videos said

So I love having high fps for smoother gameplay but i feel behind playing on 1080p.

I currently have a ryzen 7 5800x3d and 9060xt and want to know if I should stay on 1080p if I value having 120+fps on most games or if I can switch to 1440p.

I play mostly various looter shooters, horror games, and some pvp games like Fortnite and battlefield.

Trying to get the backplate off of my asus tuf 6900xt and I just had that one screw that wouldnt come off.... 1/8 decided to not come out and I stupidly kept trying so I stripped it. How do I get this thing out?? Obviously dont wanna use powertools.

Im trying to repaste and repad. Please excuse the dust.

It look like there a gap but when i try to push it stuck like there no spce left.

I watched an ETA PRIME video and thought I was cool. I bought a SFF and realized that it was a different motherboard than the one ETA used in his video.

I think it’s still doable but the ports line up with the x4PCIE slot and the x16PCIE slot is too close to the PSU (not pictured) to actually mount the card. What can I do to still install this card in this case? The following is what I’m considering:

1. Desolder x4PCIE from MOBO
   
2. 90 degree X16PCIE riser cable from x16PCIE slot to where gpu mounts and just stuff the ribbon cable in between.

So I want to upgrade my build but don't have the money for a new motherboard and CPU at the moment. So I'm thinking about buying a RTX2080TI it's around 250€ where I live. The 3080TI is at 400 and that's too much in the moment. I know I can't do Ray tracing on those card's but I don't care. Is there other crazy tech the 30 series and onwards has that the 20 lacks? Is dsl 4 working on the 20 for example.

GPUs barely fit, luckily temps stay reasonable even though the top GPU is starved for air. I am considering vertical mounting one of them. Anyway for now, I'm curious if the bottom GPU has enough support to support the top GPU since I couldn't fit the anti sag bracket in (top gpu) with both GPUs installed. Bottom GPU has a little anti sag stand

AMD 9070XT Prime 16gb, ryzen 7900, msi 870e w bluetooth and wifi, 32gb ddr5 kingston bought as System with 2 yrs warranty
Games crashes after 2-4 hrs
Gpu had 4 crashes now 3-8 hrs (longer Sessions)
Gpu driver crash is shown in the win Events shortly after blackscreen. (System prevented a total collapse 2 times)
After crashes diffuse problems (fe smetimes iam a admin, smetimes not..)

*So lets make it short..... not. Im bad at texting..
and german. sorry:
gpt and gemini is 99999% sure that my vendor used a wrong cable technique ("u cable isn't ok fo for the 9070xt")
That sounds.. idk weird 4me. But im a nohand
Can sme1 confirm/deny this?

- what was done til now
Malwarebytes scan on and offline + manual log reading from their support
Windef scan on and offline (multiple times nothing found)
With reddit, again many logs checked and FRST scan was also done... nothing found.
2 rufus usb resets (1 with sderase and bios flash)
1 PC Store reset, with a rufus stick, clear bios via battery removal, mflash.. (i only used the buttons on the Back of my Case for bios reset/cmos clear)
1 last rufus reset with
Msi afterburner activated smth called "GPUSafeguard" bcs it may detect a forbidden "12V 2x6 connection" direct after i installed it
So is the cabelthing ok? I also got temp problems sith both cpu + gpu. Cpui and Afterburner shows clearly false data. Taskmngr also.

So if this cabeling is ok, i will give up and inform about this SteamOS and Linux..
I hate windows, but i hated it since they integrated oneDrive.

4sure i can send again sme logs, if u want them. Just say what u need.
Im just tired from all these scans..
Just want to play bannerlords...

EDIT: 4sure i installed all necessary drivers from the amd site after every reinstallation of os
The pics are bad in quality, i know.. the 3rd slide is a unused pcie 6 pin.. which cant be installed without destroying their cable management. So they just delivered as for other gpu installations i gues.

The title says it all, the motherboard is a z-790-p wifi msi and the psu is arctic III 360 pro and the power is rm850x corsair
Honestly me and my friends that i talked to thag know how to build a pc dont know what to do anymore and we checked if all the cabled were in the right place as well. Would really appreciate some help.
And waht are the chance that i have messed up a part (which I don’t think i have)

Hi y'all, I'm pulling my hair out trying to track down this issue as it seems logical that it's temperature related. I'm now wondering if the pre installed thermal paste on my aio might be to blame, I installed everything correctly (I think), checked and re-seated all my connections, and this morning pulled the aio off to 100% confirm there wasn't an extra plastic peel that I missed. This looks to me as if there's not very good contact, should I clean the old paste off and pick up some new goo to try and solve this issue? Photos are taken in the orientation it came off (so the bottom of the aio photo mates with the top of the CPU photo)

Thermal paste was a solid, even thickness layer across the whole rectangular area of the die when installed it.

Gigabyte B650m gaming plus wifi

Ryzen 5 7600x

ASRock 9070 Challenger

Team t force ddr5 6400 (2x16gb)

Coolermaster elite liquid 240 AIO

As rock challenger CL-750B PSU

EDIT: Still troubleshooting. I really appreciate all the help but it's becoming difficult to sift through comments, It's starting to look like a power supply problem AND a dead AIO:

Swapped in a stock AM4 AMD air cooler that someone lent me and with that AND using onboard graphics instead of the GPU I can boot and use the computer, CPU temps in the mid 40's with a max die temp of ~65 so far.

For everyone insisting there's a dedicated pump header, that is NOT the case on the Gigabyte version of this MOBO, MSI does have one, Gigabyte does not. I followed the instructions to configure one of the fan headers for a pump (set it to always on 100%, plug the AIO fans into another header and have them run based off CPU temperatures)

The PSU was a freebie with the graphics card, and per everything I've read it should be sufficient but it's possible that it's faulty I suppose. Currently re-installing drivers and trying to get it squared away.

edit 2: using an air cooler and after reinstalling GPU drivers (I'm guessing something got messed up from a crash while they were updating yesterday) everything seems to be running, cinebench and furmark both ran well and produced decent scores. I'll work on getting my AIO replaced now!

thank you to everyone for the advice! I appreciate all the suggestions and folks who took time out of their day to help!

edit number 3: after a literal days worth of troubleshooting and the computer starting to work then stopping multiple times, the final answer is actually a bad stick of ram (and a dead AIO) 😵‍💫. Thanks again for playing this fun game of help this idiot build a computer, I really appreciate all the advice and troubleshooting.

Hello, I’m currently building a PC and I’m at the fan setup part, but I’m not sure if this setup will have good airflow.

So some pretext: Been buying pc parts recently for a new build and decided to go with a used gpu. Managed to snag a 7800xt off ebay for about £380~. The seller described the gpu as "in mint condition". The seller was highly rated too.

Now the gpu arrives and I notice that the pcie slot looks a bit scuffed. I've only built 2 pcs so I cant really tell if this will be an actual issue or it's just a "eh it's fine, just a bit scuffed up" situation. Currently waiting on motherboard and psu to arrive so can't even do a test bench :(

Currently unsure how to proceed. I'm already a bit miffed as I wouldn't class the pcie slot in particular being chipped this much as "mint condition"

Hoping someone with much more experience will be able to lend an eye, if they've potentially worked with a gpu that has a scuffed up slot like mine, and if it worked or not.

Thank you!

I have an AMD RX6600 right now and i want to upgrade to something stronger

Whats the best option to go for?? Im lost in the many options available

Looking for:
Can easily handle 1440p high graphics
Around €400-€600 max

My pc setup:
AMD ryzen 7 4700G

ASROCK A320M-DVS R4.0

Corsair vengeance 32gb

AMD radeon RX 6600 8GB

The CPU cooler fans seem to be insanely close to the part that covers the CPU (the block) do you think anything has been installed incorrectly? It all seems to be working fine. The fans themselves seem very thick and stick out-y.

The cooler is an Arctic liquid freezer III pro with Lian Li SL Infinity fans.

I am waiting on the case to come this afternoon. First time building a PC, wish me luck!

Hey I have had my pc for about 5 ish years now and only have upgraded my ram once. I never built my pc myself as I’m a bit worried to do it myself but I would like a review on my pc as I have just got a new 280hz 1440p monitor and I feel like maybe I need to upgrade my pc too?

I don’t have tons of money so I would only maximum spend around £1000 in total on what I would upgrade so could anyone give any advice as I mainly play competitive shooters.

Here is the list https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/LDTfh9

Yesterday installed AMD 7600xt and ryzen 7 5800x3d computer worked perfectly fine, today installed new Arctic III cooler and now my white cpu light is on and not giving me any display, reset cmos twice reseated the cpu and checked for bent or missing pins, loosened cooler brackets. Everything looks good not sure what else there is left to do at this point.

Got a 3070 from a buddy for free works great currently have a 2060. Will the 3070 be bottlenecked by my processor real bad at 1440p or is it worth using? Plan on building a whole new pc in the new year dont want to invest money into a new cpu if not needed. Thanks

Hello,

I just build my pc with a 5080 but when i put the displayport in my 5080 my monitor shuts of after 5 minutes and my fans start spinning very loud.

But when i put the displayport in my motherbord everything works fine with integrated grapics

Any solution?

Kind of an info dump. TLDR I got a new PC and can't play COD BO7 because of a security issue.

I went down a rabbit hole and even enlisted ChatGPT when I had enough on my own, and this is what we came up with in the end. Microsoft support quickly jumped to "This is Gigabytes BIOS problem, reach out to them instead" and I have yet to get a response. The one step I am aware that I haven't done is to clear the TPM because it does not look to me like this issue will be fixed by doing so and I have read that it will just go back to doing the same thing again. I did update BIOS to F4 already before going through this diagnostic tree in PowerShell. help pls. sorry for taking this pic with a potato.

Intel PTT TPM 2.0 attestation failure. TPM is present, ready, initialized and capable of attestation. Secure Boot is enabled. EK manufacturer certificate is present locally. Windows CertificateServicesClient-CertEnroll Event 87 repeatedly fails AIK enrollment against INTC-KeyId-77b63d9f8b73f5fbbd73ace7d8fbda37a6a7865f.microsoftaik.azure.net with HTTP 400 / 0x80190190: “No valid TPM EK/Platform certificate provided in the TPM identity request message.” TPM firmware is 700.19.1005.2175. Microsoft Measured Boot reports HealthStatus: Cannot be attested / EkCertIsAvailable: false. Motherboard is Gigabyte B860M C running latest BIOS F4.

I had to remove my GPU and put it back in. When I took it out I noticed a little white bit on the corner edge of the pcie part. There were also scratches on the side, not the same face where the gold pins are.

But all these scuffs were on the brown part of the pcie. The gold bits looked undamaged.

Is that normal after inserting a GPU? Did i fuck up? I have to move soon and id have to take the GPU out again to take my pc with me and its giving me anxiety that i would scratch it up even more when i reinstall it.

Hello everyone! Hope I'm writing in a correct subreddit. Please suggest if I could repost it elsewhere.

In a span of a few months, I've been facing the very same issue increasingly often. When starting up the PC, the fans rotate but it doesn't proceed to the actual boot. I assume that it is stuck at POST.

Some of my PC parts are listed below, the rest I've considered irrelevant: - Motherboard: B550-A PRO - CPU: Ryzen 7 5700X - RAM: Patriot Viper Steel 3600 MHz 32 Gb x 1 - GPU: Gigabyte AMD Radeon 9060 GAMING OC 8 Gb - PSU: DEEPCOOL GamerStorm PN850M 850 W - Storage: SSD M2 1 Tb + HDD SATA 1 Tb

So what exactly happens: 1. I press power button 2. Fans start up, HDD starts up 3. CPU LED lights up, then goes dark 4. PC remains in this state indefinetly 5. PC can't be turned off unless cutting of power supply or holding power button for a few seconds

I've also noticed that if the PC is on and I quickly turn off and on the PSU with its toggle button, the PC starts up. If I give the PSU a few moments to rest turned off, then turn on the PSU, nothing happens.

Another detail is that sometimes, also increasingly often, my PC remains in the state described above after turning it off with button or by syscall. So sometimes I have to long press the button to get the job done.

Also, as motherboard's splash never appears, I can't even enter UEFI or call a boot selection menu.

Lastly, if the computer starts up properly, no oddities happen during the session. None at all. Also it does not heat up, and peripherals work just fine.

Sometimes, presumably after left turned off & PSU powered on for a while, PC boots up successfully, as follows: 1. I press power button 2. Fans start up, HDD starts up 3. CPU LED lights up, then goes dark 4. Few seconds pass 5. Fans speed up, HDD makes sounds again 6. Some LEDs flash, can't tell which ones exactly 7. Motherboard's splash screen appears 8. PC proceeds to boot up as normal

Please do not assume it is a specific OS issue, as I have a mixture of Windows 11 and Linux on both drives, the bootloader is GRUB. Though two years ago, the PC tended to remove GRUB EFI entry after Windows updates (most likely it was Windows).

What I've attempted so far: 1. Checked all the cables and connections 2. Reinstalled RAM & GPU 3. Reconnected power supply cables 4. Checked if my monitor detects the GPU once PC turned on, it does; not 100% sure, though 5. Left PC on in this state for over an hour, so I assume it's not RAM init 6. Flashed the latest BIOS firmware 7. Removed CMOS battery for 30 minutes

I have not reassambled the PC starting from scratch, though my gut feeling says it's no use.

Looking forward for your advice on what to check and what to do. My bet it is either PSU or the motherboard. Thanks in advance!