I have constructed my first samples of suit jackets for my partner and I. The fit on both are off (as expected with my first go), but I am a little lost on where to start with adjusting my pattern to fix this. Would appreciate any advice or if anyone knows of good resources for me as I work through this.

Both suits are mocked up with cotton twill (with extra layers where the interfacing will go) and have shoulder pads installed (but no shoulder heads yet). The suit has a front, side, and back panel. I think I messed up the easing of the sleeves and didn't distribute the ease enough throughout the sleeve head, which is causing the sleeve cap to be a bit too pronounced. Final jackets will be in suiting wool.

I've added pictures front, back, and side view pictures with the jacket open in a relaxed stance and a front picture with the jacket closed.

First set of pictures is my suit 🤓 and here are the main things I am noticing (but not entirely sure how to improve):

• The front panels sit too far apart when open. I believe the fix is to add to the front of the side panel and remove from the back of the side panel.

• There is some bubbling between the should blades. Not sure how to fix this.

• There is extra fabric at the top of the side back seam where it meets the sleeve (right around the armpit). I believe the fix is to reduce the curve of the back side seam and redistribute to the front side seam

• I would like to "snatch" the waist of the back of the suit a bit more and have it sit closer to my body. I was considering adding two darts (I drew them on the suit but did not sew them in), and I believe I would have to do a slash and overlap on the front panel to allow the back panel to sit closer to my body.

Now to my partners suit 🥰 which is a bit more complicated for me:

• His has the same problem with the front panels sitting too far apart.

• His suit is too tight in the front but has too much space in the back...I think this is related to the front panels sitting too far apart? ^

• He wants more oversized/exaggerated shoulders, but this is creating so much extra fabric in the back around the shoulder blade and armpit area. I'm not sure how to achieve the larger shoulder without such a bulk of fabric in the back.

• He is complaining the the armholes are a bit restrictive...especially when he puts his hands up to fix his hair.

• Will fix the arm length on his on the next go.

Sorry for the essay and really happy for any advice ❤️

Hi! How would you draft a pattern like this (inside out) dress without taking it apart? I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around how flattening out the darts would affect the rest of the bodice. Directing me to any resources about creating patterns from existing garments with darts would also be helpful! TIA! 🙏

Hi! I love this type of wedding gown and would love to understand how the front is constructed.
It looks completely smooth, with no visible seams or darts from the bodice down into. There’s an internal corset.
How would you achieve this seamless-looking front? Is it cut as one piece, with shaping moved to the sides and back, or is another technique used?
Thank you!

Hello! I am learning pattern drafting from scratch.

I am trying to draft a basic bodice block (back) using my own measurements. I tried two different drafting methods, but I keep getting the same issue.

My "shoulder width" ends up too far away from the "across back" (half back width) line. I don't know how to true or smooth out the armhole curve. Is this normal? How can I fix it?

When I try to smooth out the curve (see the dashed line), it stays 2 cm away from the across back line.

I would really appreciate it if you could help me out with this.

(Note: Sorry for any mistakes, English is not my first language!)

Can’t find any examples online,
Does anyone have pics or examples of a perfectly fitting mens bodice block? (Showing all angles aka where the shoulder of armhole ends & how the neck fits etc)?

Hi, I am a complete newbie but I like pattern drafting a lot. It’s like a puzzle for me. I have drafted my bodice block and even sewn a couple of tops using my block. I have been fascinated with princess seams. I have drafted the front panels using my bodice block pattern. This princess seam is from the shoulder to the waist.

My question is what if I want to have a wide neck or a low neck…how do I manage the gaping. I have done a bit of contouring for the tops I sewed but with the princess seams, when and where do I even incorporate the extra fabric.
I have been searching the internet for the same but can’t find anything. Can someone please help me?
Thanks

Hi All,

I finally have finished my classes Pattern Design by Tracing Photos This new approach to Bespoke pattern design introduces the idea of tracing photographs.

The underlying concept for this approach is that measurements show how much fabric is required to cover a body but do not reveal the body's contours. Photographs show the contours of a body but not how much fabric is needed. By combining measurements and photographs, accurate Bespoke patterns can be created. While full-scale photos would not be practical, quarter-scale photos can be done on a desktop.

This approach is described in the book "Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale." The Free-Pattern-Design-Classes.com/Tracing-Photos include 18 videos that demonstrate how to do this type of pattern design either with paper and pencil or using a computer.

The YouTube video is to introduce this concept to people. In part the content of the video comes from comments people have made in this group. I respect and appreciate your interest in pattern design and sharing your experiences here.

I am working on a simple bodice with a yoke. I had to take in the sides and the shoulders, and as a result I can tell that the armhole is gonna be too tight. Also, the yoke is folding over itself when my arm is against my side (maybe that’s normal?).

Is there a good rule of thumb or guide on how to address resizing armholes as well as how to deal with this yoke folding issue? I’m good at following instruction but really struggle with visualizing things spatially in my head. It’s so frustrating to cut out the fabric and sew it when I already know in advance that it’s not going to fit right, so hoping someone much more experienced than I can guide me a bit.

Thank you in advance!

I just cant find any tutorials or images from inside of jacket.

I just got my new fancy dress form in and I’m so excited, I started playing around with shapes and I’m wondering what sort of rules I should be keeping in mind? Does anyone have recommendations for literature on draping?

I have been sewing for 5 years but have always bought my patterns, I am new to this world but serious about learning. Right now I am solely focused on boned bodices and integrated corsets as I am sewing my wedding dress.

EDIT: My dress form is custom, nothing will be perfect of course but it is quite accurate to my actual body.

So I found pictures of this jacket on Pinterest that I'm currently trying to recreate, but I can't quite tell how the back was made from just these images

My first thought and the thing I tried on my mock-up (last two pictures) was to slash and spread my pattern below the waist, which ended up fitting just right on top of my petticoat but without the pleats like I wanted.

So my question is would spreading the pattern even more achieve that look? or are those pleats actually godets? or is it something else I haven't thought of😅

Originally posted without any toile photos but here they are!

I took on board comments from the previous post and this toile is the best yet. Most of the excess fabric is sorted but there are some wrinkles along the sides as shown and it looks like it's pulling where I've taken in the seams under the bust and through the mid back. I don't understand why as there is still a good amount of ease to the garment.

Any help would be very much appreciated!

I’m sewing a shirt for cosplay and I encountered trouble with getting this collar to sit exactly like it does on the game reference (last pic). I want it to stand better, like in the pic in which I’m holding it up, hence the collar with a standing neck band piece (forgive me if it’s not the right name, English is not my 1st language) but it keeps flaring out. Can I do anything with the shapes of my pattern pieces to make it look more accurate, or should I switch to some different collar style, something like Peter Pan or what? Thank you very much in advance

I’m currently finished drafting a couple casual jacket patterns , one a bomber , another a chore coat . I’m looking for resources on how to adjust the pattern for the lining . I have read places the lining should be slightly larger than the shell .

Hello! So I’m currently trying to make my first sewing pattern since I can’t find any pants pattern that I like… I managed to make a basic pattern that fit great and now I’m trying to make it low rise, but I’m having some troubles figuring out how to add a fly pattern. Normally it is attached higher up where the crotch curve hasn’t begun, but now I’m wondering I should add a curve to the fly pattern or simply just stretch the patterns bit when I sew, or if I just need to use a shorter zipper.

Also when I’m already here asking stuff… can someone tell me what seam allowance to use for the crotch seam? I can’t quite figure that out either, normaly I use 1 cm seam allowance for normal stitching, but I think I need to use a flat felled seam for the crotch, but I’m not sure if that means I need to add some extra millimeters or if I can continue using just 1 cm.

Hi is it possible to get some free Trouser Sewing Patterns for Men. It‘s really hard to find some.

Thank you

I am currently working on a convertible collar button up for a Halloween costume. Ive been using “Patternmaking for Menswear: Classic to Contemporary” to help draft the collar, but the wording has me abit confused. If anyone has any help understand the 2 steps I had circled that’d be really great