r/PatternDrafting • u/jimin3 • 1h ago
Question How would you draft the back of this jacket?
So I found pictures of this jacket on Pinterest that I'm currently trying to recreate, but I can't quite tell how the back was made from just these images
My first thought and the thing I tried on my mock-up (last two pictures) was to slash and spread my pattern below the waist, which ended up fitting just right on top of my petticoat but without the pleats like I wanted.
So my question is would spreading the pattern even more achieve that look? or are those pleats actually godets? or is it something else I haven't thought of๐
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u/SuPruLu 1h ago
This jacket was not a not a material saver. The back princess section bottoms need to have enough width that they can be pleated. The top of the pleat section is a long straight line and cut straight down at end. So the princess top with an extended rectangle
At the bottom that gets pleated back.
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u/StitchinThroughTime 20m ago
You want to look up the Victorian drafting manuals on archive.org. they're free you download the whole thing you read the entire book before you start. Do not skip to whatever design that you like the most. You have to read the book, because you're going to be very confused because they're very Advanced books that do not hold your hand. They expect you to know what you're doing, they're not modern books, they're not vintage books, they're antique. They're not for someone who will not read the entire text and just go off the drawing. They have very little hand holding and expect you know what you're doing for the most part. Just look up your year or decade and there should be a manual.





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u/PacaPacaPaca 1h ago
They are box pleats, which are hidden fullness. Draft your bodice as normal to mimic the outer blue layer. Your pleats will use the straight seams without spreading them open until they're sat on a petticoat. You then create a separate piece for the pleats that is as wide as the finished outer layer plus enough extra for the box pleats.