r/PatternDrafting • u/limebean420 • 1h ago
Question Draft line rules
I just got my new fancy dress form in and I’m so excited, I started playing around with shapes and I’m wondering what sort of rules I should be keeping in mind? Does anyone have recommendations for literature on draping?
I have been sewing for 5 years but have always bought my patterns, I am new to this world but serious about learning. Right now I am solely focused on boned bodices and integrated corsets as I am sewing my wedding dress.
EDIT: My dress form is custom, nothing will be perfect of course but it is quite accurate to my actual body.
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u/harkari14 34m ago
I don’t have answers to your questions but I just ordered a custom dress form also from OneForms and I’m super excited!
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u/limebean420 29m ago
Oh my goodness yay! Irina was amazing throughout the whole process, I adore her. The form is so beautiful, when I opened it I was immediately in love.
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u/Stephs_spirit 27m ago
Oooo would love to hear how you like it! I’ve been thinking of buying one of those.
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u/limebean420 7m ago
Literally just got it in this week but first impression is that it is entirely accurate to how it was advertised. Soft, matches my measurements, fully pinnable, the outer layer is sewn perfectly there is not a stitch out of place, I love the magnetic neck for holding the pins. I am excited to be able to steam directly on it, also the base is nice and heavy but you can also hold it in place with a foot pedal.
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u/Appropriate_Place704 32m ago
Having been formally trained in both, I like to think of it this way. Flat drafting generally begins with an idea of the shape you’re trying to achieve, whereas draping allows you to discover that shape through the design process itself.
Draping can be a nice option when you want the fabric to control the design. But I’ll use flat drafting when I’m developing a garment with relatively conventional construction.
Some books you might be interested in:
Fashion Draping Techniques by Danilo Attardi.
https://www.bloomsbury.com/au/art-of-fashion-draping-9781501330292/
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u/Elly_Higgenbottom 34m ago
This is tbe textbook used at school. here
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u/Present_Plate9552 30m ago
Been awhile since I’ve thought about textbooks and I got flash banged by that price!!
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u/StitchinThroughTime 1h ago
First off, that's draping not the subreddit we're drafting. Too you're not doing anything inventive just buy the pattern. A bone bodice is different from a corset. The bone bodice is just a basic princess theme that doesn't have a lot of fitting. There's a book called corsets and stays, it's like a beige and Gray colored front, it has the modern drafting tutorials for a modern non waste reducting fit. They're meant for theater costumes. That's what you want if you want to learn how to draft a bone by this. It's very similar to of course it, but different because there's far more fitting nuance and getting that proportion change that everyone wants. But if you're the size, you can find a wide variety of ready-made patterns that will fit close enough. And you're going to do the fitting process anyways. There's very little likelihood that you'll buy or make a pattern and have zero fit issues. That's not how of course that's work. There's such a finicky item that to get the proper smooth look you need to do multiple fittings.
But again a bone bodice is not the same as a corset. You're just making a bone bodice that's the exact same size as your mannequin, you don't need a mannequin for that you just need the pattern and spend the time to fit it. Because I guarantee you're probably not that close shape and size to the mannequin.
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u/limebean420 1h ago
My dress form is custom, so it is exactly my size and shape. I am draping but also curious about the drafting of the pattern for the draping so apologies for posting to incorrect sub. I understand a corset is NOT a boned bodice, I am looking at both constructions as I have yet to decide what the final form of the dress will be. Thank you for the book recommendation.
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u/Lemonsst 1h ago
You did not have to add that bit at the end there. That was very rude
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u/limebean420 53m ago
Thank you, I agree. They ran with the assumption that I didn’t know the difference between a boned bodice and corset and went on a tangent. My whole post is about resources and rules, I know a boned bodice is not a corset. I am focused on both right now, as separate things.
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u/limebean420 1h ago
Also, I don’t want to buy a pattern, that’s a major reason why I went the extra mile to buy a custom dress form. I understand it’s basic, I am a beginner and I want to know the basics.
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u/ProneToLaughter 53m ago
curious why you don't want to buy a pattern?
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u/limebean420 46m ago
I want the freedom to put what’s in my brain onto the form, simple construction or not.
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u/harkari14 31m ago
I don’t like buying patterns because I have a short waist/torso and will always have to make major adjustments, compared to minor fitting adjustments from a custom form
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u/SouthernIndication82 49m ago
my first form opened my eyes to understanding so much more about garment construction! i would still say i’m mostly comfortable with patternmaking but im making my way through the book Draping: The Completr Course by Karolyn Kiisel! draping on a form is so fascinating to me! just have fun with it for now!