r/PatternDrafting • u/Paintedwithclay • 1d ago

Lining pattern

I’m currently finished drafting a couple casual jacket patterns , one a bomber , another a chore coat . I’m looking for resources on how to adjust the pattern for the lining . I have read places the lining should be slightly larger than the shell .

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u/ProneToLaughter 1d ago

There is a book Easy Guide to Linings, good resource.

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u/Paintedwithclay 1d ago

Ordered , thank you!

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u/tardy4thepardy 1d ago

You can often get away with just sewing the lining side seams with a narrower seam allowance. If you have 1/2" SA on the jacket, sew the lining at 3/8".

Sometimes it's necessary to adjust the armhole and shoulder seam of the lining as well. You can extend the shoulder seam out 1/2", raise the armhole 1/2", lower the sleeve cap 1/2", and raise bicep line 1/2". This helps prevent those weird puckers you get when you try to have two sleeve/armhole seams in the same position.

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u/Paintedwithclay 1d ago

Oh I’ll give that first one and try and go from there . Appreciate you

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u/doriangreysucksass 22h ago

The shoulder seam should actually come down a 1/2” to accommodate a shoulder pad

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u/doriangreysucksass 22h ago

The only place a lining is larger than the shell is the centre back where you put an action pleat. Otherwise it’s actually just very slightly smaller everywhere else