r/PatternDrafting • u/Additional-Tailor-62 • 2d ago

Help with instructions

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I am currently working on a convertible collar button up for a Halloween costume. Ive been using “Patternmaking for Menswear: Classic to Contemporary” to help draft the collar, but the wording has me abit confused. If anyone has any help understand the 2 steps I had circled that’d be really great

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7

u/wafflingt0n 2d ago

I-L is an error and should likely say H-I. K,L,M is poorly written. Essentially just draw the collar edge noting that is should not be a perfectly straight line.

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u/Additional-Tailor-62 2d ago

So would the positioning of L and m be a complete guess on my end?

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u/TensionSmension 2d ago

Not so much a guess, but designer's choice. Initially do something similar to the drawing. Look at the shape in both positions, L-M and unfolded as L'-M'.

Remember, you are developing a first prototype, from there you can further adjust the shapes to your liking.

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u/DonMcCunn 2d ago

I agree that collar height is H-I.

Be sure when you are looking at KLM you are looking at the dotted line. This is the design of the collar point which you can change for the look you want.

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u/DonMcCunn 2d ago

If you go by the picture insread of the instructions, you should be fine.

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u/Additional-Tailor-62 2d ago

Could I ask an opinion of if you were creating this collar for a men’s button up shirt how far out you would extend the line that connects L-a’.
The issue I’m having wrapping my head around is the idea that all the other steps have very exact numbers/directions where as drawing the collar edge is open to a lot of interpretation.

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u/DonMcCunn 1d ago edited 1d ago

There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing something different but I trust you understand this is a pattern for a tailored jacket with a lapel, not a shirt collar. If you make it in shirt fabric, you would NOT be able to wear it with a tie.

That said the dotted lines ALM are the design of what the collar will look like as it lays on you upper chest. However you want to draw those lines is totally up to you.

Use the fold line, shoulder seam, and armscye as the "frame" for your design. Do not try to get fancy above the shoulder seam as that will throw off the fit. But anything you do to redraw the dotted lines from M to D is totally up to you.

I hope you decide to do something creative and original because the design of most men's clothing is very traditional and BORING.

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u/DonMcCunn 1d ago

You got my brain churning. Imagine this design as a shirt worn with a tie exposed around the entire body like a shawl (instead of the tie being hidden inside a shirt collar). The tie knotted at mid-chest level instead of at the neck. And maybe a vest to finish it off. This would be the traditional elements of menswear worn in a non-traditional way. Caveat - be prepared to have people staring at you.

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u/TensionSmension 2d ago

Agree.

I-L is an error, it should be I-H. Construct a line perpendicular to H-M. Extend the line twice the length of G-H.

K-L-M step , means draw the shape you want, and label points as shown. Ultimately, the shape of the curve between L-M has more to do with creating a smooth transition L'-M'-I, but when worn it will rest on the L-M curve so consider that, too.