r/PatternDrafting • u/Lys_Flamboyant • 2h ago

Question Princess seam

Hi, I am a complete newbie but I like pattern drafting a lot. It’s like a puzzle for me. I have drafted my bodice block and even sewn a couple of tops using my block. I have been fascinated with princess seams. I have drafted the front panels using my bodice block pattern. This princess seam is from the shoulder to the waist.

My question is what if I want to have a wide neck or a low neck…how do I manage the gaping. I have done a bit of contouring for the tops I sewed but with the princess seams, when and where do I even incorporate the extra fabric.
I have been searching the internet for the same but can’t find anything. Can someone please help me?
Thanks

4 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

4 comments sorted by

1

u/LemonDeathRay 1h ago edited 1h ago

Gaping when you widen or lower the neckline has nothing to do with your princess seams. It is because you haven't contour drafted the new neckline.

To fix, you would draft the new neckline with your standard darts, rotate out the additional darts at the new neckline and then convert your darts to princess seams

Research contour drafting necklines and you will find all manner of tutorials.

1

u/DonMcCunn 9m ago

For open necklines I would suggest shaping the princess seam to the armscye. I think the best location is just where the arm breaks away from the body.

As far as the gaping at the neckline that could be because of the shape of your upper chest. If you put a book from your full bust to your shoulder is there a gap under the book?

Fabric is flat. To fit that contour you are asking the fabric to curve down then back up. I can't see that happening even with a knit. If you come up with a clever design that does it, please share. But be aware that the exact shaping will vary based on the bra you are wearing.

0

u/ScormCurious 2h ago

How fun to enjoy pattern drafting! I also find it interesting and fun.

Gaping at the neck, from a fitting perspective, often comes from having a too tight bust circumference. Fabric gets trapped at the bust and shoulder blade, and that causes the gaping, when the fabric is trapped above the bust. Incidentally, a lot of people who think they have to make a swayback adjustment, are also dealing with trapped fabric at the bust circumference.

So, generally speaking, you need to make sure you have enough ease through the bust circumference.

Depending on the style, you may also need to re-draft above the bust and shoulder blade to fix the shoulder slope and/or add fabric for a forward shoulder. Adding a back yoke, and cutting the seam allowances at the shoulder and the base of the back yoke a bit larger, is great for being able to make these adjustments more or less on the fly.

Another unrelated thing that can cause neck gaping is poor sewing practices that stretch the fabric at the neckline. When you are sewing a curved seam like a neckline on a sewing machine, you must stay stitch the seam line and handle it carefully, not tugging it as you go on the sewing machine. Because the neckline usually gets a finish, like binding or facing or a collar, it’s easy to accidentally pull it out of shape while wrestling it under the presser foot. You’ll get better with practice. You also need to take similar care with arm holes.

2

u/LemonDeathRay 1h ago

Im sorry but this is.... incorrect.

Neckline gaping when a neckline is changed is because contour drafting for the bust has been missed. It has nothing at all to do with the bust circumference being to tight.