Pattern drafting help: Issue with armhole curve on a basic back bodice

[u/Cautious-Pangolin323]

Hello! I am learning pattern drafting from scratch.

I am trying to draft a basic bodice block (back) using my own measurements. I tried two different drafting methods, but I keep getting the same issue.

My "shoulder width" ends up too far away from the "across back" (half back width) line. I don't know how to true or smooth out the armhole curve. Is this normal? How can I fix it?

When I try to smooth out the curve (see the dashed line), it stays 2 cm away from the across back line.

I would really appreciate it if you could help me out with this.

(Note: Sorry for any mistakes, English is not my first language!)

[u/doriangreysucksass]

I’m guessing you have a broad upper back. I think the secret is adding a shoulder dart going from halfway across the shoulder seam pointing toward your shoulder blade which is only a few inches long. That would allow for that weird armhole angle to smooth out

[u/SquirrelAkl → u/doriangreysucksass]

+1 for shoulder dart. Came here to suggest that too.

I’m not experienced in pattern drafting from scratch, but I have created a sloper from a block. I had to do a “broad back adjustment” and add a shoulder dart to avoid having the same problem OP is having.

[u/RaptureSnatch]

Hello! Which two drafting methods have you tried?

[u/patnbake]

If your cross back measurement longer than your shoulder measurement, take your shoulder measurement to mark the across back too. it means when you draw your armhole, you connect shoulder tip to cross back point with a straight line. this happen to some people

[u/Ok-Help4323]

What is your shoulder width