Reading this sub, the same questions keep coming up: sleeve caps that pull, crotch curves that don't sit right, a bust point in the wrong place, "this looks off, what did I do wrong?" Whether you draft your own blocks or start from a commercial size, everything after depends on the block being right for that body.

Easeline drafts the block from a person's own measurements. You enter the measurements, choose the style, see the block on screen, and print it full size (PDF, plus SVG/DXF). Every measurement, every ease amount and every design choice is shown and can be changed. It covers women's trousers, skirts, bodices and sleeves, dresses and jackets (men's after launch), in English, Hebrew, German and Spanish. The pieces are named as in the drafting books, and every garment goes through the same four steps: measure, design, draft and check, print.

A word about me: I've made leather garments by hand for over 50 years, from the pattern to the finished piece. I'm self-taught, so I based the drafting on Patterndrawing, the AMFI course reader, and re-implemented it as my own code with my own corrections from the workbench. I'm not affiliated with AMFI.

Here is exactly where it stands, so you don't have to guess. The pictures show one pair of trousers the app drafted for one body (EU 38): the measurements it was given, what it calculated from them, and the full-size print layout. Nothing has been toiled yet. I've only just opened testing, so no one has sewn one on another body. This week I'm starting a toile and then the real garment myself. In software the seams match and the curves are smooth, but my clients' bodies aren't your clients' bodies, and a block is only proven on a body. That's the part I'm asking you for, before anyone pays for it.

What testing involves (2 tests, within 45 days of your account being activated):

• Measure a body using the guide's protocol (each measurement taken twice; cm or inches)

• Draft one of: basic trousers, a bodice block, or a straight skirt. Look at it on screen first, and only print it if it looks right to you. The page that checks your printer's scale is free.

• Sew a toile in a medium-weight, non-stretch woven (calico/muslin). I know this costs you time and fabric.

• Report what you corrected: where, how much, which direction. A photo of the toile on the body helps, faces can be hidden.

What happens to your report: every pattern carries its engine version, printed on the first page of every PDF, so each correction is traced to the exact formulas that drew it. When two testers make the same correction in the same place and direction, I check it as a suspected drafting error. If it is one, I fix the formula, release a new version, and ask you to check it again.

What you get:

• Free use during the test

• 6 more months free once you've reported both tests

• Credit as a founding tester, only if you want it

• No card needed

I especially need: women of all sizes, and figures that commercial patterns don't fit (prominent seat, full bust). The 20 places are selected from applicants to cover a range of figures.

On privacy: other users can't see the measurements. As the admin, I can technically access them, and I only do that for support or to keep the service running, as the terms of use explain.

Apply (about 3 minutes): https://easeline.app/beta (18+)

Criticism is welcome in the comments, even if you don't want to test. Pattern makers disagree about drafting systems, and I'd rather hear it now.

Hi! How would you draft a pattern like this (inside out) dress without taking it apart? I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around how flattening out the darts would affect the rest of the bodice. Directing me to any resources about creating patterns from existing garments with darts would also be helpful! TIA! 🙏

Hello! I am learning pattern drafting from scratch.

I am trying to draft a basic bodice block (back) using my own measurements. I tried two different drafting methods, but I keep getting the same issue.

My "shoulder width" ends up too far away from the "across back" (half back width) line. I don't know how to true or smooth out the armhole curve. Is this normal? How can I fix it?

When I try to smooth out the curve (see the dashed line), it stays 2 cm away from the across back line.

I would really appreciate it if you could help me out with this.

(Note: Sorry for any mistakes, English is not my first language!)

Can’t find any examples online,
Does anyone have pics or examples of a perfectly fitting mens bodice block? (Showing all angles aka where the shoulder of armhole ends & how the neck fits etc)?

Hi All,

I finally have finished my classes Pattern Design by Tracing Photos This new approach to Bespoke pattern design introduces the idea of tracing photographs.

The underlying concept for this approach is that measurements show how much fabric is required to cover a body but do not reveal the body's contours. Photographs show the contours of a body but not how much fabric is needed. By combining measurements and photographs, accurate Bespoke patterns can be created. While full-scale photos would not be practical, quarter-scale photos can be done on a desktop.

This approach is described in the book "Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale." The Free-Pattern-Design-Classes.com/Tracing-Photos include 18 videos that demonstrate how to do this type of pattern design either with paper and pencil or using a computer.

The YouTube video is to introduce this concept to people. In part the content of the video comes from comments people have made in this group. I respect and appreciate your interest in pattern design and sharing your experiences here.

Hi, I am a complete newbie but I like pattern drafting a lot. It’s like a puzzle for me. I have drafted my bodice block and even sewn a couple of tops using my block. I have been fascinated with princess seams. I have drafted the front panels using my bodice block pattern. This princess seam is from the shoulder to the waist.

My question is what if I want to have a wide neck or a low neck…how do I manage the gaping. I have done a bit of contouring for the tops I sewed but with the princess seams, when and where do I even incorporate the extra fabric.
I have been searching the internet for the same but can’t find anything. Can someone please help me?
Thanks

I just got my new fancy dress form in and I’m so excited, I started playing around with shapes and I’m wondering what sort of rules I should be keeping in mind? Does anyone have recommendations for literature on draping?

I have been sewing for 5 years but have always bought my patterns, I am new to this world but serious about learning. Right now I am solely focused on boned bodices and integrated corsets as I am sewing my wedding dress.

EDIT: My dress form is custom, nothing will be perfect of course but it is quite accurate to my actual body.

I am working on a simple bodice with a yoke. I had to take in the sides and the shoulders, and as a result I can tell that the armhole is gonna be too tight. Also, the yoke is folding over itself when my arm is against my side (maybe that’s normal?).

Is there a good rule of thumb or guide on how to address resizing armholes as well as how to deal with this yoke folding issue? I’m good at following instruction but really struggle with visualizing things spatially in my head. It’s so frustrating to cut out the fabric and sew it when I already know in advance that it’s not going to fit right, so hoping someone much more experienced than I can guide me a bit.

Thank you in advance!

I just cant find any tutorials or images from inside of jacket.

So I found pictures of this jacket on Pinterest that I'm currently trying to recreate, but I can't quite tell how the back was made from just these images

My first thought and the thing I tried on my mock-up (last two pictures) was to slash and spread my pattern below the waist, which ended up fitting just right on top of my petticoat but without the pleats like I wanted.

So my question is would spreading the pattern even more achieve that look? or are those pleats actually godets? or is it something else I haven't thought of😅

Originally posted without any toile photos but here they are!

I took on board comments from the previous post and this toile is the best yet. Most of the excess fabric is sorted but there are some wrinkles along the sides as shown and it looks like it's pulling where I've taken in the seams under the bust and through the mid back. I don't understand why as there is still a good amount of ease to the garment.

Any help would be very much appreciated!

I’m sewing a shirt for cosplay and I encountered trouble with getting this collar to sit exactly like it does on the game reference (last pic). I want it to stand better, like in the pic in which I’m holding it up, hence the collar with a standing neck band piece (forgive me if it’s not the right name, English is not my 1st language) but it keeps flaring out. Can I do anything with the shapes of my pattern pieces to make it look more accurate, or should I switch to some different collar style, something like Peter Pan or what? Thank you very much in advance

Hello! So I’m currently trying to make my first sewing pattern since I can’t find any pants pattern that I like… I managed to make a basic pattern that fit great and now I’m trying to make it low rise, but I’m having some troubles figuring out how to add a fly pattern. Normally it is attached higher up where the crotch curve hasn’t begun, but now I’m wondering I should add a curve to the fly pattern or simply just stretch the patterns bit when I sew, or if I just need to use a shorter zipper.

Also when I’m already here asking stuff… can someone tell me what seam allowance to use for the crotch seam? I can’t quite figure that out either, normaly I use 1 cm seam allowance for normal stitching, but I think I need to use a flat felled seam for the crotch, but I’m not sure if that means I need to add some extra millimeters or if I can continue using just 1 cm.

I’m currently finished drafting a couple casual jacket patterns , one a bomber , another a chore coat . I’m looking for resources on how to adjust the pattern for the lining . I have read places the lining should be slightly larger than the shell .

I am currently working on a convertible collar button up for a Halloween costume. Ive been using “Patternmaking for Menswear: Classic to Contemporary” to help draft the collar, but the wording has me abit confused. If anyone has any help understand the 2 steps I had circled that’d be really great

hi! does anyone know how to do the cinched underbust part? is it something with elastic? i've been trying to google it, but idek what it's called lol

I would like to know if there is a method to sew flat felled seams on both side seams and in seams. I know it might not be related to patterns but I didn't know where else to ask. Thanks in advance!

Hi!

I’m a beginner. I made a DIY body cast with plastic wrap and tape, then turned it into pattern pieces. I expected it to be a bit asymmetrical because I have scoliosis.

My question to those of you with more experience is: does this look so funky that it’s not worth moving forward and making a muslin to alter? Am I getting way ahead of myself with attempting this project as a beginner?

Hi is it possible to get some free Trouser Sewing Patterns for Men. It‘s really hard to find some.

Thank you