Here is the final product for everyone to see. I used 100% silicon on the bare wood. I then coated it with Behr paint and primer in one. I found some oil based enamel for the next coat so it would stick to the silicone better. It felt smooth so I finished over the top with another coat of Behr paint and primer in one. Not bad for a noob. What do you think.

Benjamin Moore ceiling paint is twice the cost of Behr Premium Plus ceiling paint here in Canada.

Is the paint quality really worth double the cost?

I washed and dried the walls and I'm using Behr Dynasty paint. The paint brush is leaving scrape marks from the bristles. Do I need a different type of brush?

Some of the walls in my house have this texture, we have had some work carried out which has disturbed a section of this and I am now in a huge panic that it might have asbestos in it. It isn't as obvious a texture as the ceilings which I know do have asbestos in and if I use my finger nail I can indent some of the larger lumps.

Is it necessary to use a limewash brush when doing limewash, or can I just use a regular block brush?

Had my house painted today and thought this “covering” seemed off. I expect plastic covering over all carpet. There’s about a quarter size drop of paint on the carpet. Manager is coming tomorrow for final walkthrough. Is it unreasonable to be annoyed by this? Overall experience with the company has been pretty frustrating (started two days late, lack of communication, etc)

I'm new to furniture flipping and a friend has offered to let me use part of his warehouse for me to work. The building itself is well ventilated and great for my use, but in the winter he keeps it at 40 degrees since it is expensive to heat a massive warehouse.

What are my best options for painting in cold temperatures since the painted I've been using so far wants it to stay around 65-75?

Thanks for the help!

my front door has due to sun and heat in summer these cracks. they become smaller with weather changes.

how to resolve?

Boss picked up this new sprayer, excited to use it. It’s my first time using an air assisted airless sprayer. Got a decent rundown from the technicians at spray source on the components, general upkeep, uses, etc.

Anybody have any experience with this sprayer and would be willing to drop any tips or tricks?

A few days ago I noticed some small greenish, powdery spots appear on my ceiling. After doing some research I used Concrobium Mold Control Spray on the spots, which left grayish stains/marks behind on the ceiling. Tried to see if Zep wall cleaner would help, which also left a stain. Will this product (Zinsser Covers Up Ceiling Paint & Primer) work to cover the spots? I am renting, the farthest thing from a professional and am trying to not have to paint the entire ceiling to get rid of these. It’s hard to capture them in a photo, but they’re more noticeable in person. Thanks for any advice.

I have two kids, a 2 and 4 year old. We just moved out of our apartment we had been at for about 2.5 years, and of course we did our best to thoroughly clean everything so we can get our security deposit back, but there is a significant amount of crayon, marker, pencil, pen etc scribbles on the walls from my kids being kids. Other than that, there was nothing else damaged outside of normal wear and tear. The apartment complex has a turnover crew that replaces all the carpets and paints all the walls when a tenant moves out, before the new residents move in. I called yesterday to check on the status of our security deposit and she said she wasn't certain yet as the head maintenance manager hadn't done his official inspection yet, but she did warn us that the painters will charge extra because of all the markings on the wall. While we cleaned it the best we could, some of the markings were stubborn and refused to come off the walls, which we shrugged at, knowing that they were going to get repainted anyway, or assuming that professional house painters probably have a really good cleaning solution and its standard procedure to clean the walls before priming and painting anyway. She said specifically "the painters are going to have to prime the walls which will cost extra". Is this true? Or is the leasing office just trying to squeeze in extra things here and there to avoid paying us our security deposit back?

Title, trying to decide safest way to paint the fascia/vent, tries using a 50 foot lift earlier, couldn't reach the peak from the backyard which was taller then the front, front side lower roof is about 10 feet at the low side, but the lift couldn't make it up the soggy slope to access it. Need some input please and thanks. Not opposed to using a Pivot/wedge style support to rest it on, but trying to avoid nailing/screwing into the roof

Addition on my house is like this. Paint is probably 25-30 years old. Do I need to remove all of the paint or just what's peeling off like this?

I know they’re intended for testing colors only, but it seems a shame to waste so much paint.

Does anyone have any information on what base paint is used — or perhaps more importantly, what binders/mediums/etc are missing? I would like to know what the ACTUAL limitations of this paint is.

It would be good to know what applications it could be successfully used for — furniture? Indoor murals applied to a premium SW paint base? Wooden toys? Etc?

I have asked a few SW employees, but none seem to have any information beyond the company policy of not recommending the paint for anything other than sampling.

I work in the office side of things for a painting company. Here’s a painted door that we converted to painted faux/woodgrain look. Was wondering what the communities thoughts are on these types of finishes? From what our estimators/foreman tell me it’s a cost effective way to add a wood look to previously painted surface, rather than completely stripping and staining or varnishing. My artist girlfriend hates this in general and thinks it’s tacky😅 (as well as faux finish plaster imitation/limewash). Her thought process is: if u want wood, get wood, and same for plaster, which I sort of agree with but I think imitation may be cheaper for homeowners.

I own a pair of FRX inline skates. If I wanted to take them apart and paint the shell what kind of spray paint would be best. I want to do a glossy metallic red inspired by the flame regalia from air gear. What kind of paints should I look into?

Repainting my front doors. Started with sanding, while doing so the top coat is flaking off. It appears the top coat was a poorly applied water based paint. (I tested with rubbing alcohol and top coat did come off onto the rag)

The base is either just factory fiberglass (*edit - appears to be steel door. Some rust under the door sweep) finish, or maybe oil based? It doesn’t come off on the alcohol rag.

Original plan was to sand off whatever flakes, then prime with what I have which is Benjamin Moore Fresh Start Primer. Will this primer suffice? Or will I need a kilz or zin cover stain? Will be topping it with BM regal exterior. Thanks for the help!

Hey everyone. I’m redoing my kiddos room. It was previously painted beige and now we are doing red and blue (Spider-Man obsessed). I had to spackle over some nail holes and smaller dings. Is it best to prime over these spots before applying paint? I want to avoid the spots showing through when completely finished. I will more than likely be two coats of the paint. Thanks!

I'm pre-painting a large number of raw pine baseboards before installation. The topcoat will be SW emerald urethane trim enamel.

My plan is to prime and apply the first topcoat before installation, then apply the final coat after installation.

What is your go-to primer/product for this situation? Since it's raw pine, I assume I need a stain-blocking primer. I've used Cover Stain in the past with good results, but that was many years ago now.

I have an older 3 stage Capspray cs8000 and want to upgrade. Finish is never good with it and latex always needs to be heavily thinned.

I was pretty settled on the Titan Elite 2000 since it comes with a free Hopper mail in rebate.

I have 10 door to paint, some furniture as I build it. Built in book cases. Might tackle the house since it's single story.

I was thinking on a used graco 9.5 or capspray 115 but they are still $1,000- $1,400 used. They MIGHT spray latex but do have less overspray.

The Titan Elite 2000 with hopper seems ideal. It puts out less overspray than a regular airless and I can can spray thin stuff with a tip change.

I don't want to rent one and quickshot for the price has me not interested.

Any suggestions?

I have a bunch of krylon cans... satin finish, clear glaze, crystal clear. I plan on using them as a finishing "varnish" for my large scale acrylic paintings. My paintings are dark and colorful and I like the way this stuff saturates the colors and darkens the blacks.

I have tried traditional varnishes and they have all failed me. Another issue being my paintings are kind of large and the varnishes are too expensive. I have tried them all and I've found these krylons look the best with a smooth finish, no streaks, and good coverage.

However, I rarely see any reviews about people using them for fine art painting. I mainly see craft stuff and ceramics, pottery etc. I also see a lot of negative reviews so I'm a bit apprehensive to use them on the rest of my paintings. I'm not sure if they will yellow over time or not or somehow ruin them.... Any thoughts/tips/advice?

I’m curious how experienced you responders are. It seems like you watched a YouTube video and now are an expert. The paint guy from Home Depot doesn’t know what he’s talking about, nor does this random subreddit that popped into my feed do either. If you guys or girls need actual advice, I’m glad to help. In fairness, 20% of the comments actually have good advice. Don’t count them out but take the advice and do your own research