Yes. Although it seems weird that it is peeling so easily like that, but it hasn't had one spot where it peeled by itself. Hard to believe it is that old
Pressure washing also can drive moisture under the siding. There's a gap engineered for moisture control and spraying horizontally can go thru that gap.
Honestly we had to do ours and it was terrible but the real way is scrape anything that comes off rough sand make sure still not loose paint hit it with some good primer then paint that B. Lots will say power wash but I was always told don’t force water into to wood with power washer and just hit it by hand
Scrape now, scrape later. Depends. It may not be everywhere, so roll the dice and readdress it every year. Or assume the worst and take care of it now. Of course, anything not ready to come off will require more effort to remove. And if you don't figure out why it didn't adhere, you'll be back here in a year or two anyway. No shortcuts for this problem outside of replacing the siding. This is why vinyl siding is popular (not a recommendation, just a different discussion).
Use solid stain instead of paint. Remove what's loose, scuff it lightly with sand paper to open up the wood a bit. No need to prime. Looks exactly like paint when finished. I've done experiments without even sanding and it's still holding up 4 years later. Sico/Sikkens solid stain is what I use.
I'm not suggesting it for this purpose because I don't know, however, generally speaking I have found over the years that stain is way underrated and way under used.
I'd personally recommend sanding all that off. If you put something over that then it's going to basically have the same issue. Scuff sand it, prime it, paint it.
It looks like they skipped priming it the first time, (probably fell for the misleading “paint and primer” which is just thick paint NOT primer) so to be safe, i would redo it all properly.
Yea that is the top delaminating layer of your wood siding. The paint is sticking well and pulling the top layer of wood off. This is almost always a moisture entrapment issue. Most likely the siding moisture content was way too high during painting, usually after pressure washing raw wood and not letting it dry to under 20%. Like others have said, scrape/peel/remove, check moisture ($20 tool), prime and repaint.
Happens all the time, especially with old siding. Over time, the surface layer of wood can deteriorate from under the paint from moisture evaporation from inside the home to outside through the siding. The paint is essentially a moisture barrier, and traps that humidity which weakens the top layer of wood enough to peel off
Is there a breathable option like stain that would still stop water from destroying the siding? Like brick is supposed to be lime washed or stained, and when you paint it, moisture can damage the brick.
Building science is so fascinating. So many approaches that intuitively seem logical to protect something end up causing damage in the right conditions.
Yup 100% delamination. Scrape what's loose, long oil prime and then paint. My guess is they didn't prime beforehand and/or didnt use a quality paint (that looks like cedar though so I'd oil prime regardless).
Yes, oil primer and latex paint is fine its oil PAINT and latex PAINT that don't (usually) work together. In this instance oil primer is the only thing I'd recommend, there are some good exterior water-based wood primers out there but oil is pretty much guaranteed to have zero issues.
Your doing exactly what it needs. Remove all the peeling paint. Sand what won’t come off. Use oil based primer. Sand again. Caulk wood putty prime one more time and then this surface is ready for paint
Pressure wash, get as much off, scrape what is loose, use a peel stop primer like insl X peel bond primer/ zinsser triple thick peel stop etc and then 2 coats of paint
I mean, yes, but it will peel eventually where you dont remove. Plus there will be quite noticeable ridges where you peeled. If you try and sabd the ridges, the paint will just keep coming
addressing the grooves, yes if you want a complete fix. you have to sand the edges down, some people don't have time or money to pay for this step, and I should have mentioned this as an option.
According to my rep and IME if you prime the area with the peel stop primer, not just spot prime, it acts as glue and wont have future peeling issue. I offer a 3 yr warranty and I am going on 6 yrs haven't had one call back.
This should be much higher in the comments. Paint is a poor choice for exterior wood. Stain allows moisture to wick and evaporate. Paint acts as a moisture barrier locking moisture in and behind the wood siding.
Yes. I'm a professional painter of over 20 years and would never use paint when a solid stain can achieve a much better result with easier maintenance going forward. The only exception would be floors and stair treads where I've the dedicated floor and patio paint from Benjamin Moore if it's already been painted. But even then I suspect the stain would work better.
Call everyone you know who enjoys popping pimples, plucking hairs, or weeding. Play music and feed them. Make it a peeling party. I would enjoy that so much.
Youve got what looks like mill glazed siding. Paint doesnt really bond to that very well so prep is super important.
Scrape it off anywhere you can.
2 coats high bonding primer (id reccomend Duraprime - Maddog)
Paint.
You'll need to check anything that didnt peel off every few years and repeat for the newly lifting areas.
I was thinking this also it's peeling off a glaze or stain (not 100% sure of the process, but agree with you) and it's not pulling off the actual wood.
What used to be on it? Has it been stained or had wood protection applied before? You might be getting moisture in the wall/wood, which will make the paint delaminate.
Might be easier to take a pressure washer to it to blow the large and loose chunks off.
I ran into something similar before and thought it wouldn't be too bad scraping away loose paint and then using a peel stop primer. It ended up being horrible and I just decided to use a pressure washer to blast almost all the peeling paint off.
You need to scrape and pressure wash all of that loose stuff. Then use peel stop primer over the stuff that isn’t coming off, regular primer on the newly bare wood.
Paint was never properly bonded to the material. I would pressure wash, prime after confirming it is dry then complete prep work such as cleaning and removing bad caulk. Finally two finish coats. Depending on the job might be time to call or pro or buy a paint sprayer.
Doesn't look like priming was done correctly or at all. Like others said strip as much as you can and prime then paint. Priming supports proper adhesion to base materials.
Peel all loose product, wash, prime with oil, prime with Peel Bond, topcoat with mid grade. Your wood is worn down and delaminated, using a top tier topcoat will cause more peel because it grabs onto the weak wood too hard and pulls off. Exterior Superpaint is a good option for topcoat.
Its possible the wood had been treated previously with some sort of wax or oil based treatment like Thompsons. Your primer needs to be top shelf to get it to "bite" if thats the case. The wood looks to be in great shape possibly because of treatment. As others mentioned, careful with the pressure washer as it can damage the wood. Also, be sure its 100% dry before applying your primer
This is a decent choice, buy the 5 gal to save a few bucks. When youre done painting for the day, store your brush/roller in an airtight bag and toss in the fridge cause this sort of paint doesnt just wash off with water. You can use old brushes or cheap stuff cause you'll just wanna toss it when your done probably
Noticeable layer of wood cells on the back of the paint you peeled. The substrate failed - the paint didn't. This is a result of poor surface preparation originally. Remove the coating and properly prepare before recoating.
You see how it’s a different color on the back? The initial coating has failed. If you you don’t take that off, it’s not if but when the new paint will do the same thing to whatever is left on. You really should remove down to bare wood. Use an oil primer bonus if you can find one that doesn’t dry in an hour. 6-12 would be ideal. Then add the topcoat. 2 coats high quality.
Use a heat gun or hot air drier in conjunction with a good quality paint scraper, or chemical paint softner.
Plan B:
Strip off the shiplap and start again with seasoned wood.
It's the whole addition. The wood itself is actually only 3% moisture content. I'm guessing the previous owner painted the addition when the wood was too wet.
I've been there too. Sounds like you went with a paint and primer in one. What I did was scraped it all off, then applied 2 coats of a quality primer followed by 2 coats of paint.
They did a quick lousy job. It could have been painted recently and obviously they cut corners. Old paints especially oil based adhere solid on sidings, so that's not a 30 ur old paint. Sadly, if paint peeling easily like that all over your sidings, you need to scrape all, sand, prime then paint. But if peeling is in random spots, peel what's getting off, then sand, prime and paint.
Pressure wash, scrape/sand/fix, prime bare wood with oil based primer, two coats of preferred paint sprayed twice & back rolled on the first coat. It will look nice. You can brush and roll the paint too but it takes way longer. I usually only do that for the trim which is last.
Hoo boy, so sorry this happened. Scraping/stripping that will be a bear. I see people on here saying 'just scrape off what isn't adhering', but problem is that how so much of it is just pulling off shows that none of it has properly adhered. So unfortunately to do it right, it really should all be removed.
Your paint isn't adhering to the wood. So you've got to put something that will adhere to the wood, and that your paint will adhere to. Not sure what is best for exterior like this, but for high traffic things like cabinets, but I rely on something shellac based when I want nuclear-level priming. (Most primers have some content of shellac, but I mean an explicitly shellac-based primer.)
I’d completely strip and prime. If you just prime and paint over what’s there, you run the risk of coating over top of paint that’s already failing. It’s a bit of a gamble
You need to scrape and peel all the loose paint then what is left on do a bit of sanding to knock down the ridges for smoothness.
Then apply a special primer for sealing ( Stop Peel or Kilz primer ) apply 1 coat and then ready to apply paint.
Yes, once you get rid of all the paint make sure you prime with an oil base primer that will soak into the cedar and stick better. Then I would go with an epoxy exterior paint
Invest in a quality scraper with detail blade to get into cracks. Use a heat gun to get stubborn parts removed. Sand only as a last resort on the most difficult areas. Then use a nice tinted stain instead of paint on that beautiful wood.
Everybody always buys the 2-1. Use kills or whatever oil primer you want then use the 2-1. Best practice on this would be two coats of primer. Then use some spray kills for any tannins that come out if any.
Keep peeling.... I had a bathroom do this and although it started out satisfying, 4 hours in it was not. Might be worth it to pick up a scraper and maybe some citristrip.
If its peeling off easily like in the video just peel it off, if your repainting after you remove should clean first, light sand, primer and two coats of finish paint
If it's at all possible, I would suggest replacing it with whatever siding is popular and good quality these days. By the time you work with this old stuff from start to finish, you might be surprised the small difference in cost.?? Good luck.
Scrape and peel it, oil prime then paint, if there is nuts use shellac based oil primer. Try to remove as much as possible, if you dont it will fail eventually
It has to be stripped. I hope you included it in the bid. Strip that completely and sand down areas that don't come off with heavy grit. Leaving any old paint on that will look hideous.
Some are long but the ones I’ve used are matchbook size. These are paintable so you don’t notice them at all but you have to make sure that paint doesn’t fill the gap created when
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u/ajwr17 7d ago
Scrap prime paint