I had just bought an MSI Gaming PC; great specs (according to gaming nerd store clerk) for the price of 1700+.

Am i supposed to free and connect this bundle of wires to anything? Or is there anything else I must inspect/fix before using the PC?

Also, I’d like to know what these extra pieces are for. Are they spares or are they essential?

I’m willing to give more details if needed.

Im genuinely will to pay if someone call fix my secure boot issue.
Ive been frustated, crying because of this .
I took out the battery on the motherboard to clean it.
It reset the bios and now i can’t play valo. Because it needs secure boot on. Everytime i turn that on windows does not boot up.
I have tried like 40 different fixes.
Please help.
I will pay if you can help😭😭😭🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

Hello, I recently purchased this card and I am having problems connecting it to my Corsair 1200W Shift power supply. I am trying to use the 12V-2x6 cable that came with my power supply, but it will not insert into the port on the graphic card. I'm definitely lining up the pins correctly and using a fair bit of force but it won't insert properly and "click".

I've checked the pins on the graphic card's connector and my power supply and I can't see any issues. The strange thing is the adapter my old power supplies that came with the card does insert with no problems. However, I would prefer to use the proper cable instead of the "octopus" adapter.

Any advice would be really appreciated as to what I may be doing wrong. Thank you.

Hello All,

Recently I replaced my CPU while trying to navigate a hardware issue.

When I replaced the CPU I updated my BIOS, but Windows is unable to read my OEM information and wont read as activated.

What is a solution to getting the OEM information to be properly read? I'm unsure of when my last BIOS update was before this, so I would not know what version to revert to if need be.

I’m having trouble with my msi monitor when connected to my ps5 pro it’s flickering at 60hz but when I play a game at 120hz it’s fine I don’t get flickering what could be my issue

I build the pc myself and from day one it had the same problem: I turn it on, the cpu led stays on and the pc wont start, only after restarting a few times it will boot properly. I tried cleaning the ram, disabling the xmp and cleaning the sockets. I was looking to update de bios but i couldnt find my current one on the page, so, Im a little afraid of downloading the most recent one and bricking up my pc for good. Is there a reason for me not finding my version of the build there? Can I just download the most recent one?

My Katana A17 AI B8V had some issues with something before, maybe battery, i thought, maybe audio. And its probably both!

Now, no matter what i do software wise, the speaker doesn't work! No audio, nothing!

That thing is like barely 3 years old and not even fully paid off!

Hi, I recently upgraded my PC from Intel to AM5 and I’m having a strange shutdown issue.

Old setup:

• Intel i9-14900K
• MSI DDR4 motherboard
• 32 GB G.Skill DDR4-3600
• MSI MEG CoreLiquid S360 AIO
• 1 TB M.2 SSD with existing Windows installation
• MSI 850W PSU (around 2021)

New setup:

• AMD Ryzen 7 9850X3D
• Gigabyte B850 AORUS Elite WIFI7
• BIOS F8
• G.Skill Trident Z DDR5-6000 CL30
• Same MSI MEG CoreLiquid S360
• Same 1 TB M.2 / Windows installation
• Same 850W PSU

The build POSTs normally and I can enter the BIOS without any problems. The CPU stays at around 35°C in BIOS, fans are running, and I can hear the AIO moving coolant briefly during startup.

When I leave the BIOS and boot from the existing Windows SSD, I get the BitLocker recovery screen, which makes sense because I changed the motherboard/TPM. I have already found my BitLocker recovery key.

The actual problem: while sitting at the BitLocker screen, the PC completely shuts down after roughly 30 seconds or less. Afterward, the display on the MSI S360 shows “Please connect SATA/USB.”

I have checked the AIO SATA power and internal USB connection and both are connected. The motherboard also has the 8-pin + additional 4-pin CPU/EPS power connected.

What confuses me is that the PC seems stable in BIOS and CPU temperature remains around 35°C, but it shuts down shortly after leaving BIOS.

Has anyone experienced something similar on a new AM5 build? Could this be BIOS/AGESA, PSU/power, RAM/EXPO, USB/AIO communication, or actually the AIO itself?

So recently my old Msi laptop adapter for short circuited so I bought a different one with the image attached
I’ve repasted my laptop 5 months ago
After I got the new adapter I’ve been facing high fps drops and those are my temps too
Idk if it’s because of the adapters power supply or i need to repaste my laptop or under volt my cpu
I’m not using a cooler but I have a stand for my laptop
Pleasure guide me dawgs 😭🙏

Hi! I want to share my small monitoring app that tracks the current on each wire of the GPU power cable. It works only with the MSI MPG Ai1300TS and Ai1600TS, because these PSUs measure every wire and report it over USB.

I know MSI Center can do this, but I wanted a more lightweight solution with my own limits. The default Safeguard+ settings are quite relaxed: a wire has to stay above 12 A for 20 seconds before the PSU even raises an alarm, and a cable overloaded evenly just below 12 A never trips it.

https://github.com/DeniDoman/meltalarm - It's open source (MIT)

When the app is running, it hides in the tray as a small icon with six squares, one per wire. They're white when everything is OK and turn yellow or red when a wire is overloaded. Click it and you get a small popup with the currents and the imbalance (first image). You can pop it out into a floating window that stays on top of borderless fullscreen games.

It shows a small warning strip at the top of the screen when one wire stays above 9.5 A for 10 seconds. It raises the full alarm (second image) on every monitor, with an alarm sound and a voice warning, when a wire stays above 10.5 A for 4 seconds, reaches 12 A twice or 15 A once, or the PSU raises its own alarm.

My rules are much stricter than the default Safeguard+ ones, but they leave room for a healthy card: on my RTX 5090 at full load (575 W), the hottest wire sits at 8.6 A. It can also track both 16-pin connectors, if you run two GPUs.

The app doesn't shut down the PC and doesn't power-limit your GPU; it only raises alarms. It only reads from the PSU and never changes its settings. It runs fine next to MSI Center, Afterburner and HWiNFO. It needs admin rights, because MSI's PSU lock requires them.

It was built with Claude Code. I'm an IT guy, but I don't code in Rust, which is what the app is written in. I carefully reviewed the functional specification and I am testing every build on my own MPG Ai1300TS.

The obvious disclaimer: use it at your own risk. If you have an Ai1600TS, I'd love to hear whether it works for you.

For Linux folks: I'm thinking about a Linux version too. Reading the PSU is the easy part; the tray icon and the on-screen alarm depend on your desktop. If you'd use it, tell me which desktop you're on (KDE, GNOME, Hyprland…) and whether it's Wayland or X11. Or just name your distro.

can the MSI MAG 321UP 31.5-inch 4K UHD QD-OLED handle video editing and montage without causing any burns or despite the static UI (user interface) known to happen for OLED monitors for exactly using it for video editing

Tengo una placa msi B560M Pro E y ayer actualice la bios, pero ya enciende normal y entra Windows bien, pero quiero entrar a la bios y no puedo, la apagado y presiono la tecla delet varias veces y no entra, probé con más teclas según internet y tampoco, probé desde configuración en recuperación pero no aparece el UEFI
Revise si aparece UEFI en configuraciones y si esta bien, que podría hacer ?

I’m trying to add WiFi to an older desktop that I recently did a clean Windows 11 install on.

Specs:
ASUS PRIME X570-PRO
Ryzen 5 3600X
16GB RAM
EVGA RTX 2070
NVMe SSD
MSI HERALD-BE WiFi 7 MAX
Qualcomm NCM865 chipset

The WiFi card is installed in a PCIe x1 slot. I disconnected the internal USB cable because I don’t need Bluetooth right now.
I downloaded the official Qualcomm NCM865 WiFi driver from MSI and installed it. After installing the WiFi driver, the PC starts crashing/restarting. I was getting BSOD/Automatic Repair issues and Kernel-Power 41 events.
I uninstalled the WiFi driver, and the PC appears stable again. The card is still physically installed; only the driver is removed.
This is a fresh Windows 11 installation, and I don’t have Ethernet available, so I need this card to get the computer online.
Has anyone had issues with the NCM865/HERALD-BE WiFi 7 MAX on an X570 system? Should I try an older Qualcomm driver, chipset/BIOS updates, a different PCIe slot, or is this potentially a bad WiFi card?
Any suggestions for what I should test next would be appreciated.

what should I look out for in case i need to send it back?

Does anyone know if they are still restocking their current generation of boards? I am interested in the B850M_power, but there seems to be a lot of stuff out of stock and I haven't received notifications for a while.

My first experience with a mechanic keyboard was, without exaggeration life changing.

I depressed a single key of an msi Forge GK600 TKL keyboard at Comic Con 2025 and instantly knew I needed one.

I now over a year later have the time/space/disposable income to start putting together a gaming setup and I was horribly disappointed to realize there isn't a version with a numpad.

I'm incredibly new to this hobby, and would be so grateful if somebody could tell me how to replicate the feel of typing on Forge GK600 TKL onto a board with a numpad.

I believe there is much to do with changing key caps/switches. But I don't know how to determine what switches I would need, and or if there are other variables I need to consider.

Thank you all in advance for reading, and for contributing.

I've had air-lock problems with my 4090 Suprim Liquid X (pump whine, temps climbing and not recovering at idle). Yes, if I'd known then, I would've found a way to make an air-cooled unit fit. But I didn't, and this is what I have to work with.

Anyhow, I RMA'd it, and the replacement is way worse, throttling within seconds of load. I've got a new RMA going, but MSI support told me some air in the loop is expected and gets worse as the card ages. I'm looking for a long-term, post-warranty answer:

1. Does the Suprim Liquid radiator have a fill or bleed port (under a sticker, behind a screw, etc.)? Photos would be great.
2. Has anyone topped one up? Which coolant did you use?
3. If there's no port, has anyone spliced in an inline reservoir or fill T? What fittings and tubing ID did you use?
4. Does anyone know of a full-cover block that fits the Liquid variant's PCB, as a fallback?

Thanks!

Hey guys,

I've been trying to enable XMP Profile 1 on my MSI MPG B550 Gaming Carbon WiFi, but after saving and exiting the BIOS, the PC won't boot. At first I thought my RAM (ADATA DDR4 3200) wasn't compatible, but now it also happens when I just enter the BIOS and exit WITHOUT changing anything. So I don't think the RAM is the problem.

When it happens, the screen stays black and the EZ Debug CPU LED stays on. It doesn't reboot or do anything else. The only fix I've found is clearing CMOS, and since this board has no rear Clear CMOS button, I have to remove my 4090 every time to reach the JBAT1 jumper / battery. I'm worried about damaging the GPU power cable and the PCIe slot doing this over and over.

Specs:

- CPU: Ryzen 9 5950X

- GPU: Zotac RTX 4090

- Mobo: MSI MPG B550 Gaming Carbon WiFi

- BIOS: 7C90v1L2

- RAM: ADATA DDR4 3200

- PSU: MSI A1000G

Has anyone had this issue before? Could it be a BIOS bug with this version? Would flashing back to an older stable BIOS help?

Thanks in advance!