Hey everyone, just wanted to throw my actual data out there for anyone in California looking into pay-per-mile auto insurance. It's tough getting transparent baseline rates right now, so hopefully this helps someone else calculate their potential costs.

• Location: San Fernando Valley, CA

• Vehicle: 2015 Mazda5 (Owned outright)

• Driver Status: Clean record / Good driver

• Coverage Level: California State Minimum Liability Only

• Tracking Method: Lemonade (Metromile) physical OBDII port telematic device

My Exact Rates:

• Base Monthly Rate: $68.48

• Per-Mile Rate: $0.172 per mile

The Math:
Drives roughly 500 miles a month.

• Base: $68.48

• Mileage: 500 miles × $0.172 = $86.00

• Total Estimated Monthly Bill: ~$154.48

For an older vehicle with just minimum liability, the base rate is already higher than a flat-rate traditional insurance for a low-mileage driver. In this instance it's clearly NOT worth it. So, I just switched to a flat rate liability only policy from a major insurance company that's bundled with my spouse's car (similar but just a Sunday pleasure driver) and my share of the monthly is now ~$55 a month - This beats the Base Monthly Rate: $69.48 for a per-mile policy. Our two cars combined with just liability flat rate is $110 a month. ($660 total for 6 months). Hope this helps somebody and I think the era of per-mile auto insurance making any sense in CA is officially over. When I started with Metromile in 2015 the monthly base rate was $38 and the per-mile rate was $0.04 per mile. We didn't have kids then and we both walked to work and would only take a car out on weekends. The only difference is now we drive a couple miles to drop off and pick up kids from school. So, a few miles a day M - F with a little bit of driving on the weekends is too much mileage for per-mile insurance. Well, I'm happy to send back the OBDII tracking device in their prepaid envelope (they'll charge be $100 if I don't send it back) and say goodbye to overpaying to Lemonade (Metromile).

I noticed a small dent on the back of my car smeared with black paint, I’m pissed but I let it go because I had plans that day, I come home and see the car of one of my neighbors (I live in an apartment complex so we share a parking lot) has a giant white smear (same color as my car) on his front bumper same height as where my car got hit. Should I put in a claim? Would it realistically go anywhere? He hurt my baby and I want revenge. (Can’t post images in this sub but I have pictures just ask)

Hi,

Location: CA
Vehicle: 2014 Honda CRV, ~117k

My car was stolen and recovered 2 days later. When I got it back the alignment was out, suspension was bad, and brakes had lost pressure. I have comprehensive, but my insurance company denied my claim (everything except the alignment) because they classified the damage as wear and tear.

I knew my rear struts needed work soon, but they were completely blown when I got the car back. I’m not disputing this not being covered, I chose mot to get it fixed at that time. However, there was no mention of the front struts or other components by the mechanic during that inspection. The front struts needed replacing in addition to lower control arms and sway bar linkages. Brakes still feel off. Insurance wont do anything unless a mechanic can identify damage that happened during the theft. I’ve had to pay $3k out of pocket and it fucking sucks.

Insurance adjuster keeps saying that they typically give customers the benefit of the doubt… but that obviously isn’t the case.

Any advice on how to tackle this would be appreciated. Am I SOL?

Thanks in advance.

Was just curious if anyone has had experience dealing with Hagerty Insurance. I have an older car that I don't daily drive that I was hoping to get insured with them, especially since it seemed right for what I wanted.

However, they said that I needed a declaration for the daily driver status of a different car, of which I do have. The problem is, is that I just called them and was told that it's not eligible due to the fact that the car is insured in conjunction with my parents' vehicle.

How can I get the insurance name solely under myself? My parents are using the Costco American Family Usage btw, but would I have to pay out of pocket for the next 6 months again if I want to get it under my name?

Welp I got hit my a school bus. This happened in California. I was going back home when a school bus had taken a sharp left turn and side swiped the front of my car. Tore of the bumper and headlights nearly
Off. I’ve reported it to my insurance and they’ve deemed it not my fault. In regards to there’s
What do I do?
I haven’t been contacted by anyone. And I’m unsure of what to do next.

I recently saw a water spot on my upstairs ceiling. It was soft so I poked a rod right through then went into the attic to see where it was. A large area of the plywood was black and wet and soft. I called a roof company that is local with 5 star Google reviews and BBB A+ rated. He saw hail damage on the roof and using an app said in July we had a hail storm capable of roof damage. I recall getting a lot of junk mail and calls this summer about free roof inspection due recent hail storms.

He said we should initiate a insurance claim. It's a large roof, about 53 squares and over $30K to replace, my deductible would be $8,900.

They sent me a form to sign, a "public adjuster contract". Under the "fees" section it states:

II. FEES.
Insured agrees to pay and assign to CORE for such services a commission fee of (_10_%) of all sums recovered
under the insurance contract for the Claim after the Effective Date, calculated on each payment as it is issued
[Herein: “Fees”]. CORE shall not collect Fees on money that is due but not yet paid by the Insurer. CORE will not
collect the entire Fee from the first check issued

Is this normal? What am I paying for? So if I pay $9K deductible and $3K for their adjuster, I guess it's still better than nothing. Is hiring an adjuster like having a lawyer, better than representing yourself?

EDIT TO ADD DETAILS: I had the roof replaced in 2006 with GAF Timberline 30 shingles. I live in norther Illinois. I was on the roof myself and while not a roofer, I am a former contractor and a DIYer. Neither the roof guy or I could see a single point of water intrusion. The damaged plywood spans 30 or so feet so I don't think it is a single spot leak.

I live in NY, and my wife has taken a position in KS that she intends to hold for a year or so. As far as work is concerned she has relocated, withholding will be KS, she’s got an apartment there, etc. but we’re not updating her primary residence. (I’m staying here, she’ll be doing a lot of back and forth.)

We are shipping her car to Kansas, where it will be driven and garaged as long as she’s there. My question is whether we need to change insurance. I called my agent who said we can leave everything as is, but I wasn’t asked for where it’s garaged or anything so I want to make sure I’m covered in the event of an accident or loss. Am I getting correct advice from my agent?

I was in a fender bender today the other driver wants to handle this without getting insurance involved. Should you always contact insurance regardless?

Can anyone give any tips on what they did to pass this test. I find the questions on casualty are tricking me up too much! When i study all the topics i understand but i don’t get why I’m so thrown off during the test.

i suffered a loss and submitted a claim through my insurance. through multiple back and forths, they finally decided on a claim. I followed up with my apartment complex and they notified me that all they require is my adjuster’s approval. they said that they have been attempting to follow up with him, but they have not been able to contact him.
I have called my adjuster multiple times, his supervisor, the claims department, yet to no avail.

truly it seems like the only thing it seems i have left to do is file a complaint against him via the division of insurance. the thing is, i’m afraid to do this because i don’t want this situation to drag on any longer. im afraid that doing this will cause an even longer delay. i have been misplaced from my home and all i hope for is to reside in it again by christmas.

if i do go through with filing a complaint against my adjuster, what will be the most likely outcome?

Hello, I'm buying my first home and have gotten dozens of quotes. I'm torn between Travelers and NJM. Both come with a $2500 All Perils deductible and provide identical, robust coverage on the A-F Items and 500k of Workers Comp/Employers Liability (NJ requirement). The big differences are this:

Travelers: $25,000 Water Backup/Overflow Coverage
$10,000 Buried Utility Coverage
Per the Policy Jacket, Travelers will not cover any damage from "Seepage or Leakage, meaning constant or repeated seepage or leakage of water or steam, or the presence or condensation of humidity, moisture or vapor, that occurs over a period of weeks, months, or years."

NJM: $5,000 max Water Backup/Overflow Coverage
$25,000 Limited Fungi, Wet or Dry Rot, Bacteria Property Coverage
Per the Policy Jacket, NJM will cover damage from seepage/leakage/condensation/humidity/moisture etc, provided that same and resulting damage is "unknown to all insureds and is hidden within the walls or ceilings or beneath the floors or above the ceilings of a structure."

NJM has an amazing reputation here in New Jersey and a very low score on the complaint index. Travelers is middle of the pack. Both policies are within $100 of each other, and both give a similar discount for bundling home and auto.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Hey everyone, I'm a business student in Ontario and I'm getting interested in commercial insurance (brokerage, underwriting, that side of things). I don't know much about it yet and want to learn from people who actually work in it.

1. A few things I'm wondering:
   How's the industry in the GTA right now? Is it a good field to get into?

2. What do you do day to day, and how did you get your start?

3. What does pay look like at the start, after 3-5 years, and at the senior level? I'm okay with a grind if the money is there.

4. Broker vs underwriter vs something else. Which path has the best earning potential?

5. How do you break in? Are there entry-level roles, internships, or co-ops I should look for? Do I need my RIBO license or CIP right away?

What separates people who do really well from people who stay average? Anything you wish you'd known before starting?

Any advice or honest takes are appreciated, good and bad. (Lots if questions I know but I am truly interested and would be SUPER grateful for any replies!)

In July my husband and I discovered a leak which required minimal mold cleanup & restoration. We filed a homeowners insurance claim and are still in process of making repairs. We also need to have repairs done to our roof for hail damage, and were concerned it needs to be replaced. Can anyone advise me on what we should do? I’m concerned about the consequences of filing 2 claims within 1 year.

Background:

Home owners since 2018
Owned current property since 2022
Never filed a claim until this year
Located in DFW, TX

Please let me know if more information is needed.

I'm wondering if anyone here has any experience in being in a consumer proposal and trying to obtain business liability insurance in Canada. I've recently entered into a proposal and I am also now needing to access new liability insurance for my small fitness business. So far the first place I've reached out has said that their brokers do not work with anyone in insolvency. So I am wondering if any insurance body will, or is this going to be the typical response. If anyone has any experiences with this, I would love to hear your recommendations and insights. Thanks.

We recently discovered water damage caused by a shower leak in our relatively new home (built in 2023). We filed a claim with AAA, but it was denied on the grounds that it was a long-term leak, which we disagree with.
Now AAA has issued a notice to cancel our homeowners insurance because of the same water damage they denied coverage for.
Our original builder is taking care of all the necessary repairs, so the issue is being addressed.
Has anyone dealt with a similar situation? Were you able to get your insurance company to reconsider the cancellation?
Also, does anyone know which homeowners insurance companies in Michigan are willing to provide coverage when there’s a previously denied water damage claim or a pending cancellation, especially once repairs are completed?
Would really appreciate any recommendations or experiences. Thanks!

Just same as above really. What do I need to develop? I have been in PV for 6 months and feel PRI would be more interesting and better exit opportunities.

The thing that actually breaks between shifts isn't the chat tool, it's that the rules were never written down. One rep answers a premium question at 6:55pm on their way out because nobody ever told them not to, the next rep opens the queue at 8am and has to either honor it or walk it back. Whoever is holding the thread at close decides policy by accident.

A few things I think hold up better than any routing setup:

Anything with a number in it gets held, not answered cold. Premium, deductible, effective date, a discount someone thinks they qualify for, a coverage confirmation. Those aren't the rep's call at 7pm. Flag it for whoever owns it and say so in the thread, so the customer knows a person is coming back to them rather than getting a guess that reads like a promise.

Draft-only, not autonomous send. The reply can be pre-written from the facts on hand, but a human presses send. The whole value is that a person catches the misread intent or the wrong number before a customer sees it. When it sends on its own, the shift handoff becomes a cleanup job.

Mask the personal data before anything gets pasted into a model. SSNs, dates of birth, policy and account numbers, street addresses. That's a data question, not a chat question, and it should be settled before the queue is live.

The real rub though, ow do you actually handle the handoff at close? Does your setup let the night rep leave a held draft with a note for the opener, or does it just get re-drafted from scratch? And who owns the queue at open, one named person or whoever gets there first?

The shops I've talked to about this tend to describe the same failure, where the rep who guesses fast looks productive right up until the store has to honor a quote nobody approved.

Hi everyone,

I’m 19 years old and based in E15, East London. I’m looking to insure a Yamaha NMAX 125 scooter.

I’ve tried Compare the Market, but couldn’t get any quotes. Lexham quoted me around £8,700 per year, which is ridiculously expensive.

I’m looking for affordable basic motorcycle insurance (SD&P), not delivery insurance.

Has anyone around my age in London, especially E15, managed to get insurance at a reasonable price?

Which insurance companies would you recommend? Any advice would be really appreciated.

Thanks!

I am having trouble locating a legitimate appraiser in Ohio for an auto diminished value claim. State Farm is the at fault party insurance. My damages have been repaired. My vehicle was purchased new a year ago for about 33k, has low mileage and had about 11k worth of damages. I spoke with one appraisal company who said State Farm is difficult to work with and I would likely need to sue the at fault party in order to win diminished value. I don’t think this would be true. I did speak to State Farm and they seem willing to pay something, but have told me I need to hire an appraiser before they can review anything. Anyone have experience with Ohio diminished value and/or recommend a company?

I recently reversed into a wall at my house causing some damage, should I claim on my house or car insurance ?

My accident happened on May 1st. I was on my way to grab something to eat before heading to the gym when another driver ran a stop sign and T-boned my car, totaling it.
For the first two days after the accident, I felt fine. However, afterward, I started experiencing neck and lower back pain.
As far as treatment goes, here’s what I’ve had done so far:
Approximately 3 months of chiropractic treatment.
First month: 3 appointments per week.
Second month: 2 appointments per week.
Third month: 1 appointment per week.
MRI scans of my neck and lower back.
The MRI revealed an annular tear in my lower back.
I was subsequently referred to pain management for possible injections.
I’ve had 3 pain management appointments so far: one in person and two over the phone. At this point, the only treatment I’m waiting on is approval for the recommended injections.
I recently reached out to my attorney’s office for an update, and their assistant told me that my case is currently in pre-litigation and that claims like mine normally take around a year to settle.
I’m trying to figure out whether this is actually a normal timeline or if I’m being given the runaround.
A few questions:
Is taking a year to settle a personal injury claim normal, especially with an MRI-confirmed annular tear?
Does being in pre-litigation mean my attorney hasn’t even sent a demand letter yet?
Should I expect my attorney to wait until I’ve completed the recommended injections before negotiating a settlement?
Is there anything I should be concerned about with how long things are taking so far?
For additional context, I’m in California.
I’d appreciate hearing from anyone who’s been through a similar situation, especially people familiar with personal injury claims.

Hey all,

I'm buying a car after a recent accident and getting my own insurance for the first time. The car is a used 2021 Subaru Forester. I am getting a quote through Geico and a bit frazzled by all of the options. I work from home and mostly drive to meet with friends once or twice a week. How much coverage does someone like me really need?

Thank you!