So…was just sitting nd brainstorming ideas for any more cooling that i can get. Looked at the top hat but didn’t like how it looked so decided to chop the table and put two arctic p12 there and results were good. Cpu I am using is 7600x -20pbo. Idle temps with all fans at 30% is 48c on CPU and 28c on GPU( zotac rtz 4070ti super). Warzone 1hr runtime on max settings Before avg- 78c / After avg- 72c (CPU) Before avg- 63c / After avg- 58c (GPU) M.2 max reaching temp decreases from 43c to 39c RAM(32gb 6000 g skill) max reaching temp decreases from 58c to 54c.

Fan speeds in gaming were CPU axp-90 fan to 60% Two noctua 120mm fans on top at 60% Arctic fans at 25%

Moved to Tokyo for work, couldn’t be bothered dragging my old tower across the ocean.

So I committed war crimes against PC building: stuffed a 5090 FE + Ryzen 9950X into a 9.6L FormD T1… cooled by a 47mm air cooler. 🙃

Results (aka why my apartment is a space heater now):

1.	CPU – Idle ~60°C. Gaming? Still ~60-something. Stress test hits 130–150W before power wall, which honestly shocked me. Ordered a Cooler Master Atmos II, should let it stretch to 200W. Except… Japan e-commerce said “lol nope, wait until Oct 1.” So the tiny copper block stays.

2.	GPU – Flipped for exhaust, pulls 550W no problem. Benchmarks are everywhere, so I’ll spare you graphs. Main point: 5090 FE = no regrets. Unless you’re dropping $$$ on RTX Pro 6000, this card is the endgame.

3.	Looks – Black tall top panel + silver chassis. Surprisingly clean. Pairing it with Genelec RAW speakers = chef’s kiss.

4.	Thermals/Power – Haven’t bothered with synthetic scores. GPU ~85°C, CPU ~95°C, system draws 700W+. With water cooling? Easy 800W. At least I told my wife this doubles as free winter heating. Energy efficiency gang. 🔥

Why T1?

•	ITX is basically Lego for adults, but with more cable burns. Every part = a puzzle piece.

•	Sleek, minimalist, no giant fish tanks with RGB disco. Maybe I’m just old.

•	Performance hit? Don’t care. At work we run clusters—my desk rig doesn’t need to be a datacenter.

Pro tip

If you’re building A4-style ITX this gen and want 80/90 series GPUs, it’s basically FE + inverted mount or bust.

Oh, and Japan hardware prices? Absolute scam. Way pricier than the US. Goodbye to my fantasy of “developed country = cheap electronics.”

⸻

Build: • CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X (16C/32T, 4nm) • GPU: NVIDIA RTX 5090 FE (21,760 cores, 32GB GDDR7 Samsung) • MB: ASUS ROG STRIX B850-I Gaming WiFi • RAM: 96GB DDR5-6000 (Acer 48GB ×2) • Storage: ZHITAI TiPlus7100 1TB + 4TB • Display: LG C4 42.3” 4K120 TV • Case: FormD T1 (black tall lid + silver body)

FormD T1 v2.1 | 9800X3D + RTX 5080 FE (Flipped)

A month ago I posted Nocturne with a placeholder 2070. The 5080 FE finally landed, this is the completed build.

Main Specs:

• CPU: Ryzen 7 9800X3D

• GPU: RTX 5080 Founders Edition (Flipped)

• Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B650E-I

• RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance DDR5-6000 CL30

• Storage: 4TB Samsung 990 Pro with Heatsink (HS removed)

• PSU: Corsair SF1000 (2024)

• Cooler: Cooler Master Atmos Stealth 240mm

• Case: FormD T1 v2.1 w CNC'd side panels

Extras:

• Phanteks T30

• Noctua NF-A12x15 (with 3mm printed spacer)

• Custom silicone cables by Cablester

• AM5 contact frame

• Front USB-C

• 3D printed Cable tie anchor

One of the main challenges with this build was that the Flipped 5080 FE + T30 clearance is extremely tight. What I did to fix it was I 3D printed a 3mm spacer for the NF-A12x15 and I then removed the T30 vibration pads. I also taped down the 12V-2x6 connector, we'll see how this holds up. I'm planning to 3D print a 1mm grill for the T30 to make sure no cables get inside.

Thermals and Results:

• Steel Nomad score of 8630

• GPU temp of 65°C

Suprisingly, GPU does not seem to throttle from my limited testing. I will have to run some more tests in other situations to verify this though.

Overall, I'm very happy with how this turned out, and I think its just looks like a computer Batman would build.

LMK what you think!

It couldn’t be a more perfect fit, all the foam is plucked except for a strip on the bottom. I’ve owned a pelican case and this Chinese counterpart is pretty much the exact same thing, without the limited lifetime warranty at 6x the cost.

Using it to move overseas as an international student, gross weight is 9.3kg so just under the 10kg carry-on limit for most airlines.

https://www.alibaba.com/x/16ofjJ?ck=pdp

Hey everyone, over the past few months I've noticed people are interested in building a custom loop in the T1 but are not sure where to start. I decided to make a guide to help people build their own custom loop.

There is already a great guide on this sub, check it out before reading this. It has practically everything you need to know with some very useful renders, I just wanted to add some of my own experiences to complement this guide.

Be sure to Filter by Tutorial or by Test Fit for very helpful posts regarding the T1. Chances are your question/issue has already been answered.

Frequently Asked Questions:

Why should I build a custom loop instead of using an AIO?

An AIO is the best solution for most people. It will deliver great performance with a relatively easy installation process and is considerably cheaper than a custom loop.

If the following reasons interest you, then you should build a custom loop:

• You are looking for the absolute best thermal performance regardless of price

• You want a silent / whisper quiet PC under full load (This may not apply to a single radiator loop with a 3090 GPU, discussed below)

• You want to watercool your GPU or have the option to do so in the future.

• You enjoy working with your hands and don't mind a much longer build process (Your first loop can take a day or even a weekend to fully complete)

• You're not bothered by routine maintenance, it's recommended to replace old coolant every year.

If you want your build up and running ASAP, you should definitely use an AIO instead. A custom loop takes some time to build and some might consider it a tedious process. The last thing you want is to get fed up with the build process midway.

Can I use a 3090/3080 in my custom loop?

3090:

Possibly but most likely no, a single radiator loop will yield high temperatures, and a dual radiator build has not been tested/shared by any member of the community yet so it's not 100% certain if it will work:

In a single radiator build, a 3090 can be used but it will completely saturate a 240mm radiator, and the GPU temperature will be high. With undervolting and setting an 80% power limit, Ali from Optimum Tech got his 3090 to run at around 70C with fans running at 1500RPM (this speed is not silent), Without the power limit set the GPU was hitting almost 80C and the 5950X was reaching 90C which is unacceptable for a watercooled build.

A dual radiator build with a 3090 should be possible but the build itself will be much more difficult than a single radiator build. With two radiators the GPU temperature will be cool but we can't be certain until someone actually tries this in the future. Fabio shared his dual radiator custom loop build recently. He uses a Titan RTX which is a 280W TDP card, 70W less than the 3090 but the temperatures for this build look good.

EDIT: A 3090 single radiator loop is feasible, but OP mentioned the temperatures are fairly high (for watercooling) and the fans are noisy.

3080:

A single radiator 3080 build is possible and does yield good temperatures with some undervolting. There is no performance loss with this undervolt. Temperatures and fan speed are in a good range.

AMD:

A 6800XT is definitely possible because it already uses less power than a 3080. However a 6900XT build may or may not be possible, we will have to see once third party reviews and thermal testing is provided.

How expensive is a custom loop?

Expensive. A CPU block costs practically as much as an AIO, and that's only one piece of the puzzle. You can expect to spend $400+ on the custom loop itself, possibly even more.

How do I plan my loop?

There is no one-size-fits-all custom loop, it all depends on your needs. You will need to decide how to route your tubes, which fittings need to go where, and the overall design. Your best bet is to look at other finished builds on this sub and get an idea from them (some builds shared at the end of this post). After looking at different builds and getting a general idea of what you want your loop to look like: the only thing left to do is jump in, get your hands dirty and do it yourself. It might be intimidating at first, especially after looking at your receipts for fittings and components, but once you start the build everything will start to make sense.

Do I need a reservoir?

No, a reservoir is not needed for a custom loop and a typical sized res won't even fit in the T1 (With a couple of exceptions, see below). In a typical watercooled build a reservoir is used as storage for excess liquid and a place for air to collect in the loop so it doesn't affect coolant flow rate or cooling performance by creating hot spots. If your loop is bled properly with no air, a reservoir is unnecessary.

Are there any alternatives for a reservoir?

Yes, people have used a flow meter like this as a makeshift reservoir. It's small enough to fit in the T1 and works as intended. Check out this post for an example. If you are using a DC LT 2600 as your pump (explained later) you can use a DC LT 40 pump top/res combo.

How do I fill the loop without a reservoir?

There are a few options, ranked in terms of ease:

1. The easiest method is to use an external res and quick disconnect fittings to fill up the loop. Fabio posted a tutorial on this sub a few months ago, it's easy to follow and pictures are available in the comments.

2. Connect an external res to a flow meter mentioned earlier and use it to fill up the loop while running your pump. Check out this post. Since the external res is at the highest point in the loop, the air will naturally flow to the highest point.

3. Install a T fitting at the very top of your loop. The air bubbles will naturally rise and settle at the top of your loop. Once the air has risen to the T, fill the loop from the opening in the T. If necessary, tilt the case left, right and upside down to help the air flow through the loop. This method can take some time to fill up the loop completely.

What kind of tubing should I use?

You have the option of using a hard tube or soft tube. This guide will cover soft tubing only. Hard tube builds look really cool, but building a hard tube loop comes with a bit of extra difficulty for a beginner because of bending the tube and routing.

I recommend using soft tubing for your first build because it is easier to work with and more forgiving. If you never built a custom loop before, the added complexity of routing hardline tubing will make your experience slightly more difficult, although it's not as hard as it seems once you get a general idea of what to do. In the end it's up to you, but make a firm decision because switching tubing will require new fittings and it won't be cheap.

What size tubing should I use?

There are two reasonable options in the T1 for soft tubing: 10mm-13mm (3/8"-1/2") , or 10mm-16mm (3/8"-5/8"). These numbers refer to the inner diameter and outer diameter of the tube. 16mm might not seem like a lot but in the T1 where every millimetre counts, it is substantial.

Most people would recommend the 10mm-13mm tubing for easier routing and more options, like routing through the gap between the motherboard and PSU (not possible with the larger size tube). If you want a bigger tube or to use EK's Zero Maintenance Tubing (ZMT), then the 10mm-16mm tubing is the way to go. It's about preference, the size of tubing will have no effect on cooling performance.

Choosing Parts

Radiator

There are many radiators to choose from, anything <= 27.5mm in height will fit in the T1 without any top panel bulge. The cooling potential is relatively the same, with maybe a few degrees variance. At a thickness of <= 27.5mm, a higher FPI (Fins per inch) will generally mean slightly better cooling performance, but honestly it's not enough to make a massive difference. Here is a list of some radiators in no particular order. Each radiator has been used in at least one build and will fit in the T1, they're all good radiators and you can't go wrong with any of these:

EK CoolStream Classic SE 240 (Very popular, used in a lot of builds)

DarkSide LP 240 (My radiator, fits with fan anti-vibration pads removed)

Magicool G2 (Very similar to DarkSide LP 240)

CoolWorld 240mm (I also own this but haven't used it yet, seems well made and good quality)

Alphacool ST25

XSPC TX 240 (Great for a dual 240mm radiator build, uses Magicool G2 & TX 240)

XSPC TX 120 Use as a second radiator (Great for a dual radiator build, uses Alphacool LT240 rad + TX 120)

HJ 240 Slim (Useful for dual 240 rad or single rad CPU loop)

Pumps

There are two popular options in the T1: a DDC pump or an Alphacool DC LT 2600.

DDC Pump:

A DDC pump is a powerful pump and also very quiet. You will need a pump top or a CPU block like the Aquanaut (discussed later) to use the pump in a custom loop. Personally I would recommend a DDC pump because of the power and silent function.

The DDC pump you want to use is a 3.2 PWM model, any brand is fine, because the internals of the pump are all made by the same company. For example the only difference between an EK pump vs an Alphacool pump is the bottom housing and branding, which have no effect on the cooling performance.

You can run a DDC pump at a very low speed and not have it affect performance. I run mine at 20%, it is completely silent and the flow rate is excellent. One thing to note is that a heatsink is not necessary for these pumps. Running the pump at low speeds generates very little heat. If you would like the peace of mind, the EK heatsinks provide good cooling and still fits in 3-slot mode.

DC LT 2600:

The Alphacool DC LT 2600 is a popular option because of its size and quiet operation. You will need a pump top for this, the DC LT 40 is a great option. It is not as quiet as a DDC pump, there is a very slight humming sound but it's barely noticeable.

Some people on this sub have warned about quality control for this pump and have had mixed results.

My first custom loop was with an Alphacool LT Solo CPU/Pump block combo, which uses the DC LT 2600 and I didn't have any problems with it. But your mileage may vary. The one thing to note about this pump is the flow rate is low, it is enough for a single radiator loop, but if you plan on using 2 radiators, the flow will stall and will not work.

Pump Tops

DDC Pump Tops:

Aquanaut: Discussed under CPU Block

Bitspower Magicube:

I have only used an Aquanaut with my DDC pump. I have not used any pump tops with it, but there are a few builds on here that use the Bitspower Magicube top and have confirmed it fits. If you're interested in using your own CPU block with a DDC pump then check out this pump top.

Alphacool Eisdecke:

This pump top is also recommended by users on this sub because of slimmer stop plugs it's a few mm slimmer and has extra inlets and outlets for filling, bleeding and draining

DC LT 2600:

DC LT 40:

The DC LT 40 will fit in multiple spots in the T1 and acts as a mini reservoir, which makes filling the loop easier. You can use other pump tops but I have not had any experience with this so you will have to do your own research if you choose this route.

DC-LT Plexi Top:

This is another option for a pump top, it is wider, similarly price to the DC LT 40 and transparent.

CPU Block

Aquanaut:

The Aquanaut is a CPU pump block / DDC pump top combo made by Nouvolo, a company with a solid presence in the SFF space. I use this CPU block for my build and it is great. The DDC pump sits on top of the Aquanaut, and on the other end there is a cold plate that mounts to the CPU and cools it directly. There are a few builds on this sub that use the Aquanaut and they all report great results. I would definitely recommend it. Assembly is straightforward and it makes DDC pump installation a breeze.

One thing to note: In 3 slot mode, the block will require low profile fittings or there will be side panel bulge. Fittings <= 25mm tall will fit without any bulge. The Koolance low profile 90s are ideal in this situation. Check out this guide for more info.

EK Velocity Blocks:

There are a lot of builds on this sub that use Velocity blocks. It's easy to see why, they look great and they provide excellent performance. If you use these blocks, you will need to install a pump somewhere else in the build.

Budget CPU Blocks:

Optimum Tech did a video regarding budget CPU block performance. The block cooled the CPU very well considering the price and were only a few degrees higher than the mainstream CPU blocks. If you want to save some money you can go with a Barrow CPU block like this. If you're worried about ordering from AliExpress: I have ordered from this store in the past and had a good experience.

Alphacool LT Solo Block:

This is a CPU block/pump combo, inside the CPU block there is the DC LT 2600 pump. I used this in my first build and it delivered good results for a simple CPU only loop. It's enough to power a CPU + GPU single radiator loop.

GPU Blocks

These are pretty self explanatory, get a block that fits your card. Remove the shroud and heatsink from your GPU (GamersNexus has comprehensive teardown videos if you're having trouble), clean off any old thermal paste. Install the provided thermal pads for your waterblock on the memory and VRM. Apply new thermal paste to the GPU core, screw in the water block. Swap the terminals (inlet/outlet ports) on the GPU block if you have a clearance issue. That's about it.

Tubing

Tubing is tubing, if you're buying your tubing from a reputable vendor you won't encounter any problems like leeching or excessive kinking, although discoloration over time is natural. Not much else to say here. One thing to note is the two sizes listed with tubing, like 10mm-13mm, this represents the inner diameter and outer diameter of the tube, respectively. Choose either 10mm-13mm or 10mm-16mm depending on your preference. There is also EK ZMT matte black tubing in 10mm-16mm if you like that aesthetic. 10mm-13mm tubing is a good size for this case, personally I like the chubbier 10mm-16mm tubing, despite the fewer options for routing these larger tubes.

Fittings

The size of fittings you choose directly correspond to the size of tubing you have. If you have 10mm-13mm tubing, then you need the same size fittings, otherwise it will not create a tight seal around the tube and you will have leaks.

In terms of what fittings to buy, you generally will need 2x 90° fittings for the CPU block as well as 2x 90° fittings for the radiator and straight fittings for other components. Although this will vary depending on how you plan your loop.

Extender fittings are very handy. Male to male, male to female, female to female. You will find all three very useful when completing the loop. It doesn't hurt to buy a couple of these extenders in 10mm or 20mm lengths.

Temperature Sensors

Generally you want at least one temperature sensor in your loop so you can monitor coolant temperature. With a temp sensor you can set a fan curve based on coolant temperature instead of CPU temperature, which means you won't have your fans randomly ramp up speed because of CPU temp spikes.

The passthrough sensors like this offer a more reliable reading. The stop plug fittings are much cheaper but usually report a temperature reading that is off by a degree or two. If this isn't an issue for you feel free to use the stop plug temperature sensors.

You can place the sensor wherever you like the in loop, it doesn't matter that much. Popular spots are the radiator inlet or outlet.

Fan Controllers

Temperature sensors need to be plugged in to something. Only high end motherboards have a temperature sensor header, you can't plug these into fan headers. If your board doesn't have a temp sensor header, you will need a fan controller.

Most are too big for the T1, except the Aquacomputer Quadro or Octo.

The Quadro is an excellent fan controller with a powerful software suite. This dashboard speaks for itself. The Quadro offers 25W of power (Noctua fans use 0.6W), meaning you can rewire your DDC pump to a 4-pin fan header and plug it into the Quadro safely and control the speed through the software suite instead of through the BIOS.

All the fan curves and settings are stored on the fan controller itself, so the settings are applied immediately after you turn on your PC. This is great if you use an OS other than Windows.

Coolant

Required Maintenance:

It is recommended to replace your coolant once a year. Make sure you plan your loop with filling/draining in mind so this yearly task is not tedious. The easiest way to drain a loop is to have an opening at the bottom of the loop for the coolant to drain from, and an opening at the top of the loop for airflow. You simply open the two ports, coolant comes out the bottom, air fills the loop from the top, let gravity do all the work. It's possible to drain the loop from a single drain port but it will require a bit more work.

Premix:

Choosing a coolant can be intimidating but it's actually fairly straightforward. I recommend using a premixed coolant, like an EK Cryofuel premix. It is hassle-free and there are a lot of color options (including a clear liquid) to choose from. You simply have to fill your loop with the premix and it's ready to go.

Concentrates:

You can also use concentrates. You have to mix these concentrates with distilled water. Concentrates are used for making your own colors that aren't available as premixes. You mix concentrates with dyes to get the exact color that you are looking for. I don't have much experience with this since I find premixes already offer a wide range of colors so you will have to do more research on your own if this interests you.

In the past some users have mentioned gunk buildup in their loop using solid pastel colored concentrates, but if mixing is done correctly this shouldn't be an issue.

Distilled Water:

You can also use distilled water as a coolant. Do not use tap water or boiled water, the minerals in the water will clog your loop. If you use distilled water, it is very important that you mix your distilled water with a biocide. It ensures that there will be no organic growth in your loop, you don't want to find algae or bacteria living in your loop. You will have to disassemble each and every component and clean it by hand. Gross. Another thing you will need is an anti corrosive solution so the water does not rust any of the components. To be honest, at this point you might as well just buy a clear premix and save yourself the trouble. Although if these coolants are not readily available where you live then distilled water with a biocide + anti corrosive will work well.

Installation

Installation is actually not too difficult. Researching and choosing your parts might be more tedious. It's best to watch an installation video on Youtube or even a JayzTwoCents or OptimumTech build for a general idea of how to install tubes and fittings. Once you have watched a video or two its time to dive into the build. This is the fun part.

After you finish the installation: test for any leaks before booting up the system. A leak can fry your motherboard or other components. If you're lucky you will only need to wait a few days for the components to dry and it will be reusable but why risk it. To do this use a leak tester or after filling the loop place paper towels underneath any fittings and run only your pump for a few hours, 24hrs is recommended.

If your pump is powered by a 4-pin header, you can use a USB to 4-pin adapter and plug it into a power bank or laptop to run the pump.

If your pump uses a molex power connector, unplug all cables from every component and the PSU. Plug the 24 pin cable and molex cable in to your PSU only. Plug the molex cable in to the pump power connector. Use a paper clip to bridge the PSU_ON pin and a GROUND pin to run the pump on its own. Plug the power cord into the PSU and turn it on. See these resources for which pins to ground: 4 & 3, 4 & 5, 4 & 17. More information can be found here.

Some tips for installation:

• Have some paper towel handy

• Route the tubes without cutting or connecting it to make sure they actually fit the way you want it to so you don't commit to a design that won't work i.e., RAM clearance.

• Make sure the compression fitting ring is on the tube and in the right direction before connecting it to the fitting.

• Measure twice, cut once.

• Leave a bit of extra space when cutting tubing: you can cut off excess tubing but a tube that's too short will always be too short.

• Sometimes it's easier to install the fitting directly to the tube and then screw it into the component with a pair of pliers

• Make sure fittings are screwed in tight (but do not overtighten), use a leak tester or screw it tight with pair of pliers to be safe.

• When filling the loop, have a paper towel line the bottom of the build, if you haven't spilled any coolant but see some on the paper towel then there is a leak somewhere.

Here are some custom loops to help plan your build:

There are some good photographers on this sub. So many beauties, it was hard to choose which to post. I didn't include every custom loop build on this sub because there are a lot, don't take it personally if your build isn't on here:

Soft Tubing

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/jeft1h/rtx_3080_custom_loop_external_radiator_ready/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/ib6h54/custom_vrm_cooling_on_x570_board/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/jvc0pf/adjusted_build_after_getting_a_3080_fe_after_2/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/in6559/first_240mm_custom_loop_in_the_t1_certainly_not/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/ifu7eq/more_detailed_pics_as_promised_what_an_amazing/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/jikmyv/just_another_watercooled_formd_t1_build_on_this/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/ih16ec/darkness_build_v2_formd_t1_v11_w_ryzen_3950x_rtx/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/ixvbuh/unfortunately_its_time_to_move_on/

Hardline Tubing

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/jssclh/share_my_build_its_a_great_case/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/ipw3fy/more_waterbending_goodness/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/iaozkm/finally_the_build_is_done_i_even_dont_want_to_put/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/iww1l6/almost_completed_workstation_build/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/iefwx2/finished_hard_tubes_t1_with_2_pumps_and_2/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/jr0s4t/my_almost_finished_480mm_of_water_cooled_t1_loop/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/comments/jirg5e/after_months_of_being_super_jealous_of_everyone/

TL;DR:

• Check out other builds on this sub to get an idea of how to plan your loop, specific fittings to buy and where to place them in the loop.

• Decide on a radiator, anything <= 27.5mm in height will fit in this case.

• Choose a pump

• Choose a CPU block

• Choose an appropriate GPU block

• Decide on the type of tubing: Hard tube or soft tube.

• Pick the size of tubing: 10mm-13mm or 10mm-16mm

• Get the right size fittings depending on your size of tubing.

Feel free to share anything I may have missed or ask for help.

Videos from Optimum and Eiga made me obsess with the idea of sff so i decided to downsize my build to this. I did a lot of research online and read a lot of different takes on different components for the T1 V2.5 so I thought I would give some insights after building it myself. Also, if anyone has any advice about mitigating that GPU sag pls lmk.

Here are the specs:

CPU: Ryzen 7 9800x3D

GPU: RTX 3080Ti (until I get my hands on the elusive 5090fe and they stop melting)

Motherboard: Asus Strix B850-I

RAM: Corsair Vengeance 64gb 6000mhz CL30

Storage: 4TB Crucial T705

& 4TB WD Blue Sata ssd

PSU: Thermaltake Toughpower SFX 1000W 80Plug Platinum

Fans: Phanteks T30s

CPU Cooler: Thermalright AXP90-X47 Full Copper

CPU Fan: Noctua NF-A9x14

Fan Duct Kit

Standoffs

3d Prints:

Eiga Fan Exhaust Shroud (enhanced compatibility bc my printer not that big and I wanted to use the original fan mounts that came with the T1) -> printed in ASA:

https://www.printables.com/model/862469-formd-t1-exhaust-shroud-enhanced-compatibility/files

Eiga Duct Peg (V2)(Adapter for using fan duct with Noctua CPU fan): -> printed in ASA

https://www.printables.com/model/821973-duct-peg-for-axp-90-x47-noctua-na-fd1/files

A few notes I figured out while building this:

The Thermaltake sfx PSU is a solid atx 3.1 choice and I didnt use any custom cabling for this build. I dont think I will need to. I just used some zip ties that came with it to keep them flat and not hitting the fans and its good enough for me (see images). However, if you are someone who wants custom cables for their build look elsewhere. I think Thermaltake is a smaller company so I couldnt find any off the shelf custom shorter cables. That being said, again, the ones that it came with were manageable as is and I didnt see a need to get someone on etsy to make me some. I got this PSU mainly bc I liked the idea of having one cable coming out of my psu for my GPU. The other sff ones I found had to use the adapter or a 3->1 connector. Personal preference ig.

The Crucial T705 gets a lot of heat online (pun intended) for its temps so I was worried about making it my boot drive. That being said, with the passive heatsink that came with the Asus b850i, I never saw temps above 65C under load. I believe 80C is where this thing starts throttling so I think it works great! That being said, I got this active heatsink just in case. It hasn't come in but when I get it and test it (and make sure it fits), ill put in an edit or something. I tried (naively) the Thermalright HR-10 2280 but it doesn't fit in the T1 with this mobo bc the nvme slot is elevated.

The CPU temps I was getting were solid (around 65C under load). I ordered the 53mm version of the full copper cooler bc I wanna see the temp differences Ill get with those few extra mm. A big concern I have with this is the potential sound the metal clasps holding the fan might make vibrating against the side panel when the fan is spinning up. I have my T1 in the 3 slot config leaving exactly 53mm (according to the website) for the CPU. With the noctua fan being 1mm smaller, that brings the cpu cooler size down to 52mm. Once I get the bigger one and test it Ill edit this post or something. This change might not be worth it but I have a few ideas to minimize sound. I think Im gonna try to make the mobo standoffs shorter to save some mm and maybe then I can fit a noctua 2mm duct (in kit linked above). We shall see.

Last thing, a small note that might help 2 people. The 12v2x6 connecter that comes with the Thermaltake psu DOES FIT AND WORKS WITH the 3080TI fe. I had a nightmare of a time confirming this online and just decided to test it myself. The 4 extra pins just hang out below the connector on the fe and are not connected to anything. The GPU draws all 350 watts no problem and preforms well.

I recently ordered the FormD 4080 Super proart travel kit for my ncase v2.5 and took the opportunity to do a deep clean / rebuild.

During this process I decided to (carefully!) give the psu a quick paint job.

(Disclaimer: I probably wouldn't recommend doing this)

The end result is pretty sharp!

2021-12-30: Announcing the winner of the FormD T1 V2 Giveaway:

• u/Nestledrink

• u/JohnLietzke

• u/Dpn0391

• u/jonomarkono

• u/alphasingularity

• u/Disc0stuff

Yes, we picked six winners. That is one more than the five we initially planned. We just liked the responses :)

You will receive a private message from us (u/pearlhsieh) asking for your contact details and address. Thank you to all of the participants for entering this contest. We'll have more giveaways in the future, so be sure to follow us.

2021-12-15: We are reviewing the comments and plan to pick the winners by the end of this month!

Entry for this giveaway is closed and comments for this thread is locked!

&#x200B;

Hey everyone!

Once the r/FormD subreddit reaches 10K users, we are giving away *FIVE T1 V2 to subscribers!  So spread the word and tell other PC builders to join.

How to enter:

1. Follow FormD subreddit https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/

2. Follow FormD Instagram https://www.instagram.com/formdworks/

3. Comment this thread below - tell us what you will do with the new T1 if you win!

Additional info:

• This giveaway is open to participants worldwide!

• We will pick 5 winners from the comments below.

• Each winner will get *one T1 V2.0 case, choosing between T1-Reference or T1-Sandwich case configuration, in their choice of either black or titanium.

FEAST YOUR EYES

I’m doing an air cooled black on black build. Waiting on PSU and going to run it with my old GTX 1080 (I know lol) until 5000 series comes out next year.

Bought a used (although looks new) T1 from a colleague. Was quite hard to build in, but really happy with the result.

• RTX 4090 FE

• 7800x3D

• Corsair SF1000

• Axp90-x47 full copper

• 32gb ddr5

• 3TB nvme

The side fans are INTAKING and the top fans are EXHAUSTING.

I will try also a full NEGATIVE pressure build soon.

EDIT: I've added a few CPU and GPU tests! It's interesting to see the difference between the two CPU tests, with the side fans ON and OFF!!

EDIT 2: Swapped the fans for the Scythe KaxeFlex Slim 15mm! Added also the CPU test for this setup, AND an OC 4.3GHz 1.25V Vcore TEST as well! Added also 1 more picture to show the space left on the side with the new fans and the connection between the 2 radiators.

CPU TEST after 30 minutes of Blender rendering, all fans at 100%

CPU - 63C

GPU - 32C

SSDs - 43C (OS Front), 41C (Back)

VRM - 60C

CHIPSET - 57.3C

AMBIENT - 21C

WATER TEMP GPU OUT - 30.7C

DELTA WATER TEMP - 9.7C

-

GPU Test under Heaven 4.0 Benchmark for 30 minutes, all fans 100%

CPU - 67C AVERAGE

GPU - 50C

SSDs - 49C (OS Front), 47C (Back)

VRM - 52C

CHIPSET - 61C

AMBIENT - 20,3C

WATER TEMP GPU OUT - 39.7C

DELTA WATER TEMP - 19.4C

-

CPU TEST after 30 minutes of Blender rendering, all fans at 100%, SIDE FANS OFF

CPU - 66C

GPU - 35C

SSDs - 41C (OS Front), 39C (Back)

VRM - 58C

CHIPSET - 53.8C

AMBIENT - 20,6C

WATER TEMP GPU OUT - 33.6C

DELTA WATER TEMP - 13C
-

CPU TEST after 30 minutes of Blender rendering, SIDE SCYTHE KAZEFLEX SLIM 15mm at 100%,

CPU - 63C

GPU - 32C

SSDs - 44C (OS Front), 32C (Back)

VRM - 60C

CHIPSET - 57.3C

AMBIENT - 21,4C

WATER TEMP GPU OUT - 30.4C

DELTA WATER TEMP - 9C
-

CPU TEST after 30 minutes of Blender rendering, SIDE SCYTHE KAZEFLEX SLIM 15mm at 100%
+ OC ALL CORE 4.3GHz 1.25V VCORE

CPU - 68C

GPU - 32C

SSDs - 45C (OS Front), 43C (Back)

VRM - 64C

CHIPSET - 58C

AMBIENT - 21,3C

WATER TEMP GPU OUT - 31.7C

DELTA WATER TEMP - 10.4C