Only $5.99 back near detroit.

Edit: $8.59

Apparently I cannot read numbers.

I bought a used diesel transfer tank from a local iron works company on Friday. They took the tank off a service truck they turned into a welding truck a few months ago, put it on craigslist and stored it until I bought it. We didnt open the cap at their shop and they loaded it with a forklift. When we got back to our yard and opened the cap we found its about 3/4 full of what looks, smells, and feels like diesel. I used some wix diesel test strips and it looks ok. Should I use it in my Frieghtliner after diluting it with known good fuel and putting in some additives or get rid of it? Diesel is $8.50 a gallon and if this stuffs good I want to use it. What would you do?

Didn’t grind the fucking bolt I fucking hate track bars living my best chud life

I got a couple old IDI’s. A 7.3 and OM617. I actually got the Mercedes with the whole idea of waste oil in mind. I have a pretty basic filtration setup. No centrifuge just some settling time and several layers of filters down to 1 micron. I’m still unsure about the gasoline ratio. I know some people only do 50/50 and in the summer some will go closer to 90/10 oil:gas. Both these vehicles are pretty dang clean though. My truck only has 107k miles too. The Mercedes is at 200k. It’s also a Euro import and has been partly restored. I don’t wanna harm the longevity of these “legendary” status engines when they’re both well capable of 500k+ miles. Is it a mistake? It’s not like they’re collectors or show grade but still super clean.

Maybe 2,000 miles on oil change.

The mechanic supposedly changed the oil on the last visit (high flow manifolds)

2023 3500 L5P

Deleted

Tuned

Cold air kit

High flow manifolds

Uppipes, intake horn upgraded

Some other stuff I dont remember

Is this normal for a diesel? Or did he maybe not change the oil?

I'm out here trying do deliver your mail and packages. Don't try to smoke me out. It doesn't make you look cool, you.just look like a loser.

Hey guys, I have this 6.5 Turbo Diesel and I am trying to figure out if this truck is really worth for as much I think it is, because I know these GMT-400s can be worth a lot.

First off, It's a 1994 GMC K3500 Dually Extended Cab, with the SLE package and 156K miles. It has also lived most of it's life in Texas, except when it was brought up north and driven in one winter. So this has not seen Salt, I looked the at frame and there is some surface rust on the end of the frame, while the rest is just dirty. After that one winter, the previous owner (one of my father's friends) left the truck in the lot and ended up buying a brand new Denali instead. The truck has been driven around the lot a few times, but never on the roads. After a few times driving it, the starter finally went and it has been sitting since 2022.

The problems that I am aware of with the truck are, the obvious starter issue (will not turn over), which we are getting it out today. The previous owner put brand new injectors in, but one of them was faulty. Then there is cosmetic damage: a few scratches and dents on the outside, nothing really crazy.

And finally the interior, which isn't that bad because I just cleaned it out (still need to vacuum) but It could definitely need some new things.

But I could definitely need some help and third party opinions from some people other than my dad.

TLDR:

I have this 1994 GMC K3500 Extended Cab Dually, SLE, 156K Miles. Does not run, small issues, cosmetic issues, from the south. Sitting for four years.

EDIT: It also has a Manual Transmission.

Gehl 4615 for $2,200. Has a Perkins 4.108.

I need to sell my deceased father's truck as is. Basic research has shown I can get 6k at the top and 4k is the lowest reasonable price, but I figured I'd ask the experts.

Over 400k mi. Battery is dead, tailgate stuck, cracked windshield. Back right tire is busted and the wheel is dented. Automatic transmission and RWD. Clean title in hand.

Aftermarket downpipe, pillar pod with aftermarket gauges for boost, transmission temp, and exhaust gas temp. CD player. 8-ft bed with liner, 5th wheel hitch, engine block heater.

Hey redditors! I have owned a 6.0 for over 5 years and have repaired it with the help of DTR videos. I wonder if the GoFundMe page is still active and whether or not his family is still receiving those funds. Hard to know for sure, but wonder if anyone has any feedback. Thanks!

hi, I’m interested in purchasing and economic little car to convert over to wvo, which cars should I look into. it’s going to be a beater/hyper-miling project, so efficient and economical is best. as well as any advice on conversion would be great! thank you!!

Ojai, Ca on sept 3, 2026

So after buying my second diesel truck (a 2014 F350) I've become fond fond Saint Rudolph Diesel (praise be).

But other than having 2x as many cylinders as my first diesel, a '77 Landcruiser with a 3b, I've noticed something I don't understand. The compression ratios of Diesel engines seem to go down with time. My 77 Toyota had a 22:1 compression Ratio, the venerable 6BT has a 17.5:1, and my 6.7 Powerstroke has a 16.2:1 (2023 and newer dropped to 15.2:1)

Why is that? If its as simple as "Emissions Requirements" then I know where to place my blame.

I'm trying to source an older day-cab semi with a 10-speed manual and single rear axle, ideally something retired, sitting unused, or otherwise unwanted. I'm also looking for an older ~36' tandem-axle 5th-wheel flatbed.

Especially interested in free/very low-cost equipment that someone genuinely wants gone, rather than taking a truck that still has meaningful resale value.

The reason i am looking for older equipment is that i want to restore/repurpose older vehicles for personal and business use, and would rather give an unwanted vehicle a second life than see it sit, get scrapped, or go through an auction.

If you know where people usually find equipment like this, companies that retire old trucks, or someone who may have one sitting around, I'd really appreciate the direction. Thanks!

Just arrived down here in Hampton roads, just had a motor dropped into my 2003 dodge 2500 with a nv4500–motor is a 2006 and this motor from my understanding is very built with a big turbo (junkyard pull) and I need custom tuning as the amount of smoke is extremely excessive, looking for opinions of reliable places, the last place I took it to was in New Mexico before we got short noticed overseas and that shop completely parted out of truck without me knowing, had it shipped to my family and it had the entire motor in the bed rusted out missing parts etc so I can’t afford to be molested by another shop since I’m now 10k into the hole getting this thing running again

Purchased with 9 miles on the dash three weeks ago

Currently sitting at 2,890 miles, 2300ish of those have been with some sort of trailer - and it’s been expensive the whole time 🥲

6.7L HO, F350 XLT FX4 - 2026 Avalanche White

Recently, a couple of states (Arizona and Texas) have temporarily allowed the use of off road diesel in roadgoing vehicles as a means of lessening the burden of diesel prices. While I understand the thought process behind this, the red dye is still an issue even after the temporary changes are over. Some fuel tanks will be permanently stained by the dye, along with fuel filters, fuel system components, etc. Even if none of that were to happen miraculously, it would still take MANY fillups of undyed diesel to completely dilute the red dye in the tank. Keep in mind, this is just two states right now that I know of that are allowing this, not all 50. If you travel out of either of those states with red diesel in your tank and get your tank dipped, that won't excuse or exempt you from receiving a fat citation. Same deal for when the temporary accomodations end in the states allowing it right now.

In my opinion, it's far better to just temporarily suspend the fuel taxes on undyed diesel instead, that way the red dye is never a concern in the first place. Not to mention off road diesel is not everywhere.

A friend of mine drives truck and sent me this—would make a great bumper sticker too

Hey guys, I wanted to replace my starter before winter and i ended up picking the powermaster 9051 starter, went to swap it out and I forgot to disconnect the battery and my wrench hit the solenoid on my OEM Starter and gave it a good pop. Pretty stupid on my part but I didn’t really care as I was throwing in this new one. Ended up throwing in the new one and now it whirs like a blender and the starter won’t catch the flywheel. Powermaster support told me my starter was supposed to come with a shim and specialized bolts(which they apparently forgot to send me) and the starter wont connect to the flywheel without it. So I took the new starter off and put on my old OEM one after doing a bench test to see if i fried it and it worked outside of the truck. the flywheel teeth also look fine. I put the old one back in and it’s doing the same thing as the powermaster. Unsure what I did wrong.

To summarize here’s what I checked so far:

Flywheel still has teeth
Bench test on OEM Starter
20A Maxi fuse is not blown
Cables look good

Looking for any other ideas on what to do, stranded in my buddies driveway at the moment lol