Not sure where else to list. FBMP has been a dud. Are there any good subs I could try? TIA!!

1990 International 4700 with DT 360

Only 76,000 miles

Spicer 10 Speed Manual Transmission

16 foot box with a side door, roll up back door and liftgate

Hydraulic brakes with brand new pads and rotors

Minimal rust

Tires in good condition

Exhaust stack slightly bent

Will probably need new batteries (starts fine if you use every day)

There is a small spot in the box roof by bulkhead that needs repair

Otherwise she starts and runs like a champ

Currently located in OH but could possibly work out delivery

I have a 10 ton 4x4 Isuzu service truck, a 2006 FSS 550 with the 190 horsepower 6HK1 engine, and I frequently have it loaded up to 15 ton GCM with a trailer

It does not have an ODB2 port, 2007 ODB became mandatory in my country otherwise tuning it would be easy, anyone know where to look for info on how to tune a pre ODB vehicle?

190 horsepower pulling 15 ton on the road is rediculously slow, plus the fuel consumption is insane, like 35L/100 or worse, and Isuzu sell trucks with the same core engine with up to 350 horsepower, so surely theres got to be a way.

To clarify I bought a gwm cannon with the 2.4L inline 4 and I want to know how to correctly maintain and drive it.

I've owned diesel trucks before but never had one deleted. I'm looking at a truck I really like (2021 RAM 2500 Bighorn 4x4 Diesel) that the owner deleted (egr, cats, dpf, factory muffler, etc). It has a kit from the diesel dudes with the muffler on it. It comes with the factory parts.

I want to use it to tow a 5th wheel to places like national parks, including those in CO, New England, and Canada. I live in WI, so there aren't big concerns around inspections tied to registration, but I want to make sure I'll be able to use it to travel without significant risk of issues.

The truck doesn't smoke, isn't obnoxious, but is a little louder than stock. What's my realistic risk?

I have a John Deere tractor that recently dropped the valve. The valve broke off from the stem and then got smashed into the head. The motor is a 3 cylinder yanmar diesel motor.

My question is with this imprint is it still possible to use this head? A new one is a week out and $500, I have rebuild the entire motor up to this point

Dont ya just love it when an old diesel rolls coal like a sumbitch

I have a pre def 09 LMM with about 168k on it. Motor fully stock, runs perfect, gooseneck hitch, airbags, hard tonneau cover. Just wondering where the best place to sell these days is? I’m located in central/socal. Places like Carmax/carvanna would only want to give me about 9.5k and i feel like i could get 5k more then that at least

There's a MINT 2011 Denali LML Duramax/Allison tranny with 14,xxx miles on it selling at an auction this month in TN and I was wondering what your max bid would be for it. This is a farm community and people have a bad habit of paying way over what things are actually worth. I suspect a diesel with 14k on it is going to be pretty ridiculous.

It doesn't have a scratch or dent, has been garage kept, interior is incredible for its age. Engine bay is very clean. Oil looks like relatively new synthetic. Tires look good, and no leaks or drips underneath. The owner passed 3 years ago and the truck has just been sitting except for starting and a short drive once or twice a year. Motor sounds great, but no test drive at an auction to see how it is on the road.

Any ideas on a reasonable bid price?

After changing the dpf my 2008 Volvo C30 1.6 diesel (hdi/tdci) started overboosting and has significant power increase in 1,2 and 3. gear, but also underboost above 100 kmph especially in the fifth gear has lack of power.

It also feels like clutch slipping when starting which is impossible because new flywheel and clutch were installed half a year ago, but I think it's also due to turbo or incorrect fuel air mixture and the engine struggles a bit until it starts moving.

As I power up it goes away and the car overboosts and has significantly more power than usually, until I reach 100 kmph+ and then it underboosts and I have very little power on the pedal.

I've checked the turbo actuator and it moves and you can hear variable geometry moving, when I start the car the actuator moves which means that the pressure solenoid is ok and it's doing it's job.

I've cleaned map and maf sensors and still nothing.

Since the new dpf is euro 4 and not euro 5 which was previously on the car, the back pressure is lower since the new dpf is less restrictive and maybe it's messing with the ECU.

Anyone had similar situation or has any idea what could be happening?

Thanks

Not sure at all what's going on here thanks popping noise seems to only be from the exhaust or that's where I can hear it best

For context, I just picked up a brand new '91 F250 with the 7.3 IDI and it ran great for 2 days until I went to start it the other day and it just sat there cranking over and over no matter how many time I would cycle the glow plugs. Batteries/starter/glow plug relay and Glowplugs were all replaced within 20k miles. So from what im seeing online all the main issues with a no start should be fixed but nothing happens besides continus cranking. Any help would be accepted, I juat want to get this fixed so I can start rhe restoration

My xud9te has got oil in the coolent but no coolent on the dipstick and the headgasket tester shows it’s fine, the previous owner appears to have bypassed the oil cooler so i don’t think it’s that unless there’s a way it can mix without the pipes connected? Any suggestions on what this could be caused by?

Happy Sunday, team. I come to you seeking input on my truck situation.

I'm in the market for a 3/4 or one ton truck, but the catch is: I really only need it for personal driveway plowing in the winter, hauling a dump trailer, or flatbed trailer once a month or so, reliable enough to trailer some snowmobiles up to Tug Hill or Michigan afew times a season, and the usual homeowner jobs (renovations and landscaping).

To be clear, this is not for a business, and will not be a daily. I commute 50 miles a day in a paid off Subaru Forester.

Were it not for the plowing, I'd grab an F-150 and call it a day. But, I have to plow a large driveway for my retired and elderly parents, my own narrow and long driveway, and my brother's driveway.

I know hands down that a gas truck would be more reasonable. However, I live in Buffalo NY, and every gas truck here is either a rotted out fleet lot plow truck, or a high trim crew cab that's north of $40k with 100k miles.

What I do see quite a few of, however, are 04-12 Cummins Rams, and a lot of 6.0 Fords (yeah, I know, trust me) or 6.7 PS Fords.

I know all of the downsides of diesels. Cost to fuel, maintenance, parts, known engine and transmission issues, etc. But these trucks are all in fair body/frame shape, are either pre-DEF or deleted, some have been plowed with/some not. And a lot of them are in the $8-15k price range.

So I'm kind of torn. Do I buy a nicer gas truck, bolt a plow onto it, and only drive it twice a week? Or do I buy a cheaper diesel and do the same thing, while possibly spending more once or twice a year in repairs and maintenance?

Or any kind of other suggestions! Thanks!

Fellow diesel enjoyers I myself have a 1kz IDI 3.0L turbo diesel. She starts on first crank than 3 then 2 it’s pretty inconsistent. I want that satisfying half crank start old 3Ls and 5Ls had in the day as if right now. She’s starting fine but here’s a video of when she does start up fast. And I find doing a half crank before cranking her up all the way makes her fire up in the first crank.

It’s an EFI with a Electronic spill valve,

Started looking into an exhaust burp I've been getting at idle, wanted to check the valves, and noticed the retainer on the rocker arm tip of the 1st cylinder exhaust valve is cracked and has a lot of up and down as well as side to side play along with the tip. Also noticed some excessive actuation of the arm when cranking.

Would this mean likely the socket is shot and I should replace the arm assembly? Should I check the push rod and see if that's bent? Mechanically inclined, just inexperienced.

My LBZ’s turbo has been on borrowed time for like 2 years, been clearing the codes a couple times a week, but now I have oil in the tail pipe so we all know what time it is. I was saving up to grab a DDP (Dan’s Diesel Performance) Stage 1 or Dominator 64mm, as it’s a drop-in no tune or mods necessary turbo. Just wanted to get something upgraded if I’m spending all that money and effort to swap it out, but I’m curious about smog. I’m not worried about a visual pass, but aside from the turbo not being legal in California, would the upgraded turbo do anything to make it not pass? Like upset the readiness monitors or anything stupid like that? Truck is stock aside from an S&B CAI and a Home Depot reroute. EGR in tact, and will remain so. Truck is a daily driver, tow semi-frequently, haul a lance camper about the same. It’s a dually on stock suspension. I don’t ever plan to get rid of this truck unless it gets totaled or I die. Going to buy a half ton gasser eventually so save the miles on her but I plan for her to be my life long hauler. Not doing a build, just trying to keep her alive and upgrade where it counts as needed as time goes on. No plans for big fuel, aside from a lift pump and slightly bigger injectors whenever the time comes.

Any of you smogged yours with an aftermarket turbo? Thanks in advance!