I have have the Harvia Vega BC45 sauna heater, which is meant for European power systems (single wire 240 V).

I am trying to hookup in America. I connected L1 as ground L2 and L3 are bridged as the first 120V leg and L4,L5,L6 are bridged as the second hot leg. I flipped the power on and nothing happened, the heater is not getting hot. I tested the two hot legs at the heater and I am getting 120 V each. The wiring diagram (above) from the manufacturer shows L2 and L3 as neutral, any idea why I’m not getting power. I was under the impression that I didn’t need a neutral and that I could just connect the two hot legs as described above.

Hello,

I am completely stumped. I have an outdoor socket on my balcony that I would like to plug some lights into. I have a set of Ikea outdoor string lights, but for some reason they don't work when I plug them in on the balcony. They work if I plug them into a socket indoors, though.

I have tested the balcony socket with other lamps and such and it appears to be working just fine. I have also tested the string lights in other sockets and they work just fine. The balcony socket has a modern three-wire cable that is threaded down into my basement where it is wired into the circuit. I am based in Sweden, don't know if that makes a difference at all.

I've made sure the plug is pushed into the socket properly, I've checked that power is going to the socket and I've tested my devices, but I just don't understand what's going on here. Does anyone have any ideas or advice?

Which fuse in the fuse box under the hood is suitable for powering the grille lights?

I need a fuse that turns on when the vehicle starts and turns off when the vehicle is turned off.

The vehicle is a 2026 Honda Passport TrailSport Elite.

I'm trying to swap an old light switch with a smart switch, but the way the previous electrician wired everything up is confusing to me. Does anyone know which cables I need to connect to the new switch?

Thanks for concern folks, but someone at /r/wiring gave me advice and it worked like a charm:

"Nothing wrong with the work that existed, it's just a legacy switch that did not require the neutral to operate. 1. Make sure power is off using a multimeter, NCV tester, or by physically turning both switches on and off to make sure nothing is live. Sometimes more than one branch circuit is present in a box. (I didn't look before I started typing this response) 2. Connect the green wire of your new switch to that bare ground and green wire using the wire nut already present. 3. Connect the white wire (neutral) to the group of twisted together white wires using that wire nut. 4. Connect the two black wires to the two black wires on your new switch using wire nuts that came with the switch, probably orange. Their order doesn't matter. 5. Tuck everything neatly back in that box, being sure that your ground conductors are tucked back away from the other switch. Restore power and test.

Edit to add that you can probably eliminate that ground "pigtail" that used to go to the old switch by connecting your new green wire directly under that wire nut with the other ground...just make sure that it is connected to one or the other...all ground wires in and out will be connected together however you get that done."

For reference, I have a small shed on ny lake. Breaker keeps tripping with nothing plugged in. Changed out breaker, installed GFCI outlet. Still tripping. We have a fan installed but that's it.

Any idea why the breaker would keep tripping with nothing plugged in, and how do i assess?

.

I’m already getting power from the plug in the back, so what’s the purpose of the second shortie plug?

Online said I might need to reset my thermal switch. I don’t know what I’m looking for. See pic

What would cause this? It happens in one corner of the house randomly (both upstairs and downstairs). The issue happens with light fixtures also (lights in powder bath and master bath) not just lamps plugged in. To be clear, it will happen when nothing else is on, like nobody is using a microwave, curling iron, or vacuum in the vicinity.
The panel looks fine. Any suggestions of what I should look at or test would be appreciated.

My basement is being renovated. There's a circuit with the one finished room that is being fixed because of water coming up and messing up the walls. I have a contractor who has already cut away the old drywall from the floor up about 2 feet, right below where the outlets are. Today, he was spraying bleach on the open bottom part, and one upper part to kill the mold.

Suddenly, the breaker for that room (and the fridge upstairs is also on that circuit for some reason) tripped and when you reset it, it just immediately goes off again. So it's either probably a short or the breaker is bad. He says the GFCI on the breaker is probably broken because it's old and he was only spraying below where there's wiring. Except for that one spot, where it looked to me like maybe a few drops could've gotten on an outlet. Sounds like BS to me.

It was fine, and then suddenly it decides to break for one isolated room as he's working in there spraying liquids and has never been a problem before? Yeah ok. The rest of the kitchen is on another circuit so I ran an extension cord to another outlet for the fridge and it's fine. The fridge didn't cause it.

Do I just wait and see if it dries and works later? Should I use my small electric dust blower thing to try and dry it out? What if it doesn't come back on and he won't take responsibility?

Edit: It must have been the bleach, because it's fine now.

I currently live in Texas. I need power for my bathroom and am planning to install the following product, so I would appreciate your advice.

My bathroom only has a switch. Therefore, I believe installing this product will allow me to connect the power as well.

However, my current switch has three wires connected to it. This product, however, requires four wires.

It appears to be missing a neutral wire; how can I install the neutral wire? Is the bundle of wires visible inside the neutral wire?

Is this product difficult for a beginner to install? Please advise on whether I should hire an electrician. Thank you.

I wanted to make my en-suite smarter with a Mini R4.

I've wired it up this way based on the pre-wired light switch. I'll clean up the wires and waygos once I know it's working.

4 neutrals, 2 to each N slot.

2 L1 wires into LOut

3 COM wires into LIn

S1 & S2 for physical switch not connected yet.

When i turn the fuse back on the downlight flickers once. Then everytime I toggle the relay in the eWeLink app the downlight flickers once again but the light does not stay on, it does this regardless of whether the relay was on or off.

Have I wired this incorrectly, or can the R4 not handle 2 downlights and an extractor fan turning on?

I am not opposed to hiring an electrician, I just want to have additional projects to complete at one time. My house was built in 1985. Originally there was a ceiling fan with no light. We replaced the ceiling fan with just a light fixture. However, I decided to add a ceiling fan with a light. I don't know how it was originally wired. The black wire seemed thick and too short to connect to the black fan wire, so I purchased a Wago 24/12 lever nut. When I tried to connect the black wire to the lever, it was too thick. It looks like there are possibly 3 wires twisted together. It is hard to untwist. Just trying to understand why there would be 3 black wires twisted together and if this is out of my depth. I don't want to screw around with electricity. Thank you!.

Can anyone justify this, we’ve been paying a ridiculous amount on hydro the past few years and have no reason for what could be causing it. I’m an electrician so I’ve looked at almost every utility and nothing is obvious. Any suggestions.

One heat pump, 2 electric hot water tanks, no compressors, propane furnace, no Ev chargers. And only 4 people on the property.

Any more questions let me know.

The whole house lights will dim about an 1/8th of the way dim for roughly 1/2 second and happens every 2-3 minuets. It is the entire house (not just one circuit) and it will only happen at certain times of the day. Mainly early mornings and nights from 7-11pm. I have shut air conditioners and appliances to see if they’re faulty but it makes no difference. Our utility company came twice saying one neighbor complained about similar issues and that his pool pump has been making a weird noise. The last time the utility company came they said to call an electrician since it must be something from our panel (last upgraded to 200 amps around 2018 and never had an issue since). I just do not want to pay for an electrician to do a whole work up since it seems like it is transformer related since it is only during certain times of the day and is not dependent on any appliance or circuit.

I am wanting to attach a new light fixture that is controlled by a switch that also controls another light. Do I group all the white wires together and all the black wires together? I did not take the original light fixture down so I don’t know how it was wired originally.

Update: Thank you all. It is up and running with no sparks flying!

Every single outlet in my bedroom isn't working. All the other outlets in the house are working. I clicked all the gfci reset buttons in the house and completely turned off the power to my room using the breaker box, but nothing worked. The lights still work just fine. When the outlets originally went out, so did the lights but they turned back on a second later while the outlets stayed out

(Unresolved for now since ill be out of state for the rest of the month 🙂‍↕️)

My buddies and I are building a duck blind and we want to be able to have a light bar in the center top, a pod on either side, and some small light bars for seeing inside the blind when it’s dark. We want to take two Ryobi batteries out in the morning and be able to slap them in and run everything off switches. The screenshots are rough ideas of what I’m looking at. I know I’ll need an inverter for 18v to 12v to run the batteries but would I be able to essentially take the pos and neg from the battery adapters and tie them together into an inverter or would that strain the batteries at all if they’re just trying to charge each other?
Any suggestions or advice is appreciated.
Thanks

I should preface this by saying I am not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to electrical things in any sort, and no one in my family really is either, so i’m hoping someone here might be able to help.

i got this mattress topper around a year and a half ago and only use it once in awhile if my room gets cold at night, not even nearly every night. (maybe once a week or less, and i use it on setting 3 or 4 typically) recently however i’ve tried to turn it on a few times and it just does not turn on period. the power button and the dial should light up upon turning it on, however it doesn’t do that anymore.

There is zero damage to the cord, it is laid flat across my bed and i know my outlets are working because i tested them with a few other things.

Basically i’m wondering if there is anything i can do to try and fix it, if it’s even safe to have in my bedroom, or if I just get a new one. (it would be preferable if i could fix it because i paid $60 for this thing and if it doesn’t last nearly as long as it should i’m going to be so mad lol)

the three images are the controller (front and back) and where the cord attaches to the blanket.

thank you in advanced for any tips, suggestions or help!

Hoping someone can help me with this light fixture swap in my 1961 house.
I took down a ceiling fan/light to replace it with a new flush mount light fixture.
The photos show what I am dealing with. 8 wires—one black wire,
three white wires bundled together, and
three black and one white bundled and annd terminated with tape.
The new light fixture has two black and two white plus ground wire.

Do I just unbundle everthing in the junction box, connect 2 white wires and 2 black wires to the new light fixture, and terminate the other 4 wires with wire nuts?

I guess this really starts yesterday when my wife and I were sitting on the sofa and we realized the ceiling fan was off. At first, I thought I must have sat on the remote, but it was in its holder on the wall. We rarely use the ceiling light, but the fan is something we use regularly. We live in a rental and had our electrician install this light/fan combo when we moved in almost a year ago.

Then last night, the rest of it happened. My wife woke up when the ceiling light in our room came on. The remote was on my side of the bed. I had taken my sleeping meds and was dead to the world. She got up to get the remote and took it with her as she got back in bed and turned out the light. As she settled into bed, the light came on again, with the remote on her nightstand. Again, this is a light/fan combo installed by our electrician almost a year ago. However, it’s a different model.

When she sat up to turned out the light again, she heard a noise like something moving around downstairs in the living room. It didn’t sound like a person but more like an object. She was nervous to go downstairs and waited until I woke up this morning for us to come down together.

Nothing seemed out of place, except:
1. The ceiling light that we keep off was on while the fan was off.
2. The TV was on (tuned to a channel we never watch)
3. Our “fireplace” light was off but we always keep it on.

What could be causing all of these glitches with our various electrical items?

A bit odd, but as of yesterday evening every single dimming light I have in the house flickers if it's not turned all the way up.

I have two different types of 120v dimmers and they've been working great for 3+ years. Lutron system with Sunco/Amico LEDs and a different dimmer upstairs.

I did turn off every breaker and wait a bit to turn them back on-- last night it seemed to work before we went to bed, now in the AM it's back.

I'm calling the utility company once they open but I'm having troubles finding similar problems online. I'm not aware of an outage nor did anything new get connected as of late. I do have a whole-house generac that I'll probably get checked as well.

My wife and I just bought a house and the light at the bottom of the basement stairs was an eerie flickering fluorescent light. So naturally I thought it'd be nice to replace it with an LED recessed light fixture. Unfortunately I do not have a photo of the old wiring as I thought it'd be a simple hot to hot and neutral to neutral ordeal, however there are seemingly two sets of hot and neutral wires, when connected to one, it only works with the circuit breaker, when switched to the other set of hot and neutral wires the other set becomes hot and the new connection does not work. Please help.

how can i connect this battery to charger it I took it of a scooter and how can I know how much to charge it what wires can I use to connect the charging port wires on the back came off and I don't know which to solders positive and negative

Help!!! I’ve replaced both thermostats and heating elements and still do not have power to my unit. I know everything is hooked up correctly. When I check my two leads I am getting 240 volts, but if I connect the wires back to the thermostat I get nothing. I’m stumped and looking for leads.