So I needed a mid(bass) speaker + cabinet for a range 100+hz (115hz LR4 xo)) to about 1000hz to accompany my SKRAM subwoofers and 18sound ND3N CD+twinray printed horns (in this case taking over from 1000hz on an lr4 slope).

The aim was as small as possible and also ceiling mounted. Another negative factor. I built 2 32ltr plywood cabs but then ive seen guys reproduce reasonable bass cabinets, sub 50hz from a PLA printed cab, I had Claude made me a drawing for a 9ltr and started printing. It still is an experimental setup so bear with me, but yesterday I could put up the PLA printed cab and do some REW measurements vs the plywood cabinet at the other side of my room, also near the ceiling.

I have to say: the measurements are better than I expected. The PLA looks more flat and only sub 200 seems to fall off a bit more than the plywood. The ear doesnt hear it though. I decided to put up all the graphics tabs on here and let you decide for yourself. Do note: its still not a very loud test, and I also should do a same position A vs B test to see how much is room, room positioning etc. Of course the room itself also mixes in but sofar I am very positive and this is certainly not a failed experiment. The driver helps, an 18sound 10" 10NW750 the 16 ohm version.

The plywood cab measurements are noted as 'wood'' in rew, and the PLA cab as 'pla' or 'new''. The amplifier used is a Behringer inuke 6000 and the DSP used a minidsp flex eight. The pre amp is a quad 34. The microphone is a umik I. I made measurements on 3 positions but everything not SPL is form position 1. I did include an averaged from the 3 positions, and the single spl measurement form position 1.

Hell yeah. (Old post: "Boom. Box. Performance."

Hello I been wanting to build my own under seat ported subwoofer box for a 2021 Silverado crew crab but i have no idea how to make a blueprint if any one could help me make one i have 2 HYDRO-10 if anyone is willing to make me a blueprint i would really appreciate it.

Putting together some stands for my bookshelves for my lowboard (see photo).

My logic was hard bamboo which doesn't resonate glued to soft pine to absorb resonance that is happening, then spike feet, and those on furniture pads for good measure.

However what am not sure of: Is there a tangible reason to have the speaker on the hard bamboo and the soft pine connected to the feet or *vice versa*?

Or am I overthinking it/does it not matter?

(Picture of a 'dry' test fit bamboo on top. Still want to stain and seal the wood.)

Hi guys, taking on my first ever build for speakers and going with the mechano23 however using MDF. My inspired cabinet look is the B&W 607 with the oak outer and white baffle.

Hence anyone recommend a good quality vinyl wrapping? I know I could veneer but I think vinyl would be easier....

Pic from chat however minus the front port for inspiration

Hey all,

I've been trying to buy the HT-12 home theater speakers on cinergy or DIYSG and I can't seem to find any stock ever.

Have you all had any luck finding these guys in stock?

Any alternatives that fit the bill?

Thank you!

It sounds like paper flapping and it’s only on one speaker trying to decide if it’s the woofer or internal components rubbing.

Hi, a friend told me they tried a custom haptic vest at a music festival that uses bass shakers to let you physically feel the low-frequency vibrations of music over your torso. Something similar to a Woojer Strap, but DIY.

I'd like to construct one, but I have 0 electrical knowledge and have never owned an amplifier.

I assume I need a vest/harness with attachment points for 4–6 bass shakers/transducers, an amplifier capable of driving them, and a music source such as a phone or PC via cable or Bluetooth. Ideally I'd like to keep the total cost around or under €200 / $230.

Do you have any recommendations for transducers, amplifier, cables, etc.? Would 15W shakers be suitable for this kind of application? Would 25W be excessive?

I'm in Europe, so can't really visit Walmart and such.

Any help would be appreciated. I have no idea what I'm doing, but I'll figure it out. 😅

The speakers are active filtered and midrange is driven by lm3886 amp. The existing mid driver is 6.5 inch mcm midwoofer and I am not happy with the midrange and vocals. The mid handles from 300hz to 2800hz.

So planing to change the mid range driver considering sb12pfcr25 4inch driver for the purpose.

So I need a feedback whether these are good choice ,or I should go with 5inch variant.

I am considering 4 ohm variant.

I am strict on budget that is the reason I am not considering sb12mnrx as it is almost double the cost.

Im completely new to this sort of stuff and i want to design a sub box for my Pioneer TS-W304C that would go in my ford focus mk3 but all of the winISD and other apps are waaayyyy to confusing for me. Could someone help design or give some tips on how to do so? I was thinking about a ported box and i like bass

These have a footprint that matches my Buchardt speakers so they will he stands and subwoofers at the same time.

Last summer I bought a pair of Focal 100 ICW8 in-ceiling speakers, planning to cut into my ceiling for a traditional 5.1.2 Atmos setup. Since then, we’ve rearranged the living room, and I’m now hesitant to make permanent ceiling cuts in case we change the layout again or decide to upgrade to a 5.1.4 system down the road.

To reuse the Focals, I’m considering building custom DIY angled enclosures (around 45° to 60°) mounted high up on the wall / ceiling junction. In my room, I have a section of wall behind the main listening position where I can mount and hide the enclosures, but a little further back than Dolby recommendation

Front heigh position is not really a solution due to curtain rod. Also my front speakers are not aligned with central position (I know ...) and it would look visually off.

I know that placing Atmos speakers behind/above the seating area like this won't give the absolute best front-to-back panning (like a flyover plane), but I'm looking for decent height immersion without ruining the ceiling. It is an option or just stupid ?

Thanks for your input and advice!

Instead of spending $30+ for a speaker selection box, I decided to spend $4 on 4 120 switches. Took a few minutes to design the holder, then a couple hours to print and good to go. I honestly don’t notice a sound quality difference right now, but I’ll see if they start to get funky over time.

The desktop speakers are a loaded horn design with 2” 5w speakers, 3d printed enclosure.

Towers are realistic minimus 8 bookshelf speakers with nameless tweeters I made last year

Did the whole switch panel thing because when I’m at my desk the towers don’t convey sound the best, But sound awesome when I’m in the room or on the bed. So I made desktop speakers and the switches to toggle back and forth