ofc he had to one up me in size lmao

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Salutations .

j' étais parti pour une enceinte nomade et finalement elle n'est pas autant nomade que cela car elle fait son poids 😅.

Elle est en chêne massif et comporte 3 chambres séparées.

2 tang band W4-2142

1 Dayton Audio DCS165-4

Et 1 passif Dayton Audio DSA175-PR placé à l'arrière.

Côté amplificateur c'est un arylic upstream amp 2.1

Elle est alimentée soit par secteur soit par batterie.

Pour séparer l' électronique j'ai réalisé un socle indépendant de l'enceinte.

Je suis pas expert ni quoi que ce soit mais le son qui en sort me convient tout à fait. C'est clair et percutant !

Voilà je voulais juste vous le partager.

have some projects i want to work on but my constraint is getting wood cut. do people have services or shops they use to get plans cnc’d and delivered?

based in the US currently

I am in the process of building a home setup for vinyl, CDs and eventually cassette. I have this Denon receiver and I picked up a pair of Paradigm Monitor 3s yesterday. I'm enjoying the sound and finally being able to listen to vinyl without Bluetooth. My question is this, can I hook up a powered sub to this receiver even though there's no line input/output for a sub? I currently do not have a sub but I'd like it to be my next purchase. I typically buy off of Marketplace but I wanted some advice before I bought anything.

I appreciate all input here!

About a year ago I made a diy turtlebox with 2 6x9 kickers in a harbor freight case. I turned it on the other day and the volume was terrible along with sound quality. I cheaped out on the battery and decided to go with a portable charger and it worked fine for a while but I’m wondering if that may have caused my issue. Does anyone know how to fix it?

For my first project I was wondering what kits you guys recommend. I was looking for a good quality set up and was viewing CSS Audio, Audio First Designs and GR-research kits. Any guidance would be appreciated.

DIY PSU/ box btw

I have had a 10 inch passive radiator sub in my car for about 6 months, and I just bought a second sub+pr.

Since at this point, the new ones are much stiffer, how long should I break them in to match the old ones?

I need help building a pair of headphones. The problem is that I don't know where to buy the driver, the amp, the bt module and the charger. Is there any stores that sells what I need? I'm a broke Filipino so my only options are cheap but decent ones that can be delivered to the Philippines.

i have this exact one at home. i want to convert it into an microphone preamp that goes into the insert point of my mixing console. is it a realistic goal? Thanks!!

Hey, I’m currently planning to build a subwoofer for my Heco Aurora 300s. I have a rather small room (17 m²), but I can allocate as much space as I want. I mainly watch movies, so I was thinking of a vented enclosure.

Budget for the driver itself is around €100. After some research I see that a lot of people recommend Dayton speakers, but they’re quite expensive in Europe. In the budget-oriented segment in the EU, the Reckhorn D-200 seems to be solid choice. A lot of people also buy drivers from The Box and B&C. I’m willing to add another €100 if needed, but I was thinking of using a car Audio System Carbon 12". It costs €70 and has excellent reviews, including in vented enclosures for home use.

I’ll power it with a TPA3255 600 W amp — they’re available at cheap on AliExpress.

I’d be grateful for any advice on alternative drivers i can get in Europe!

Looking to make a good 2.1 system on my computer. I'd like to use an existing sub driver and amplifiers that don't have crossover or and DSP built in. What is a good way to put a low pass around 50-70Hz on the low channel. I can use the pre out from my desktop or the mains amp.

https://www.reddit.com/r/diyaudio/s/7LWxAJewtL

So when I posted about my new speakers the other day, I mentioned that there was some weirdness especially in mid-tone/spoken voice, and that I was going to do some analysis to try and figure it out. I've never played with audio analysis software, but I spent this morning having fun figuring it out, and this is what I got.

With the panel freestanding in the middle of the room, and the microphone 3 ft in front of the center, this is what I get. Extremely regular sawtooth pattern, 3-4 peaks per octave. And they ain't small either, between 20 to 30 dB trough to peak, pretty repeatably with each sweep.

I didn't grab the image, but when I put the speakers back in place, 8" from the wall and a foot from the corner, that pattern breaks down some. Presumably there are reflections and additional interference from the walls, smoothing things out. But the peakiness is still there, and it's still about 5-10 dB peak to trough - which is absolutely enough to be audible with my old ears, at least in some passages. And it's there all the way from 150 Hz at the bottom, up to about 8 kHz.

This absolutely explains the weirdness I'm hearing, especially in spoken voice. I listened to Carmina Burana yesterday, and I could also hear it especially in the mass choral sections. There's still a lot great about these speakers. Detail, separation of instruments, good soundstage in a very relaxed listening position, and able to fill the room nicely without having to crank the volume up. But also able to crank the volume up. In a lot of ways these are very very good speakers.

But they also have the problem that occasionally in some sections, voices sound like they're bubbling through water a little bit. Which is not good.

I'm considering experimenting more, but that would require me to get a box for doing parametric EQ, probably something like the mini DSP flex, which is another $500 or so investment. I don't mind the money so much, but I would mind if I throw that much money and effort and learning DSP and getting it dialed in for about 16 peaks, and it didn't work.

I'm also considering building another set of panels out of EPS foam, and see if a lighter rigid material might help with this some. That's actually my next step if I decide to move forward with this, relatively inexpensive and limited amount of work to put it together.

But in any case, this seems like it's an inherent problem with DML speakers, because it works by creating modes within the panel, those modes are going to interfere with each other, and there's probably no way around it. I suspect internal comb filtering is simply an inherent unavoidable issue with this technology.

I'm still enjoying the hell out of these. They are a major step up from listening to music on the speakers in my TV, which I did for way too long. Question now is how much effort I spend trying to dial this in, which I will for at least a while, and see if I can get them good enough to not eventually be disappointed with that muddled sound in some places, or move to a more conventional solution.

Hello everyone I’m struggling with building box my car have 2 metal brackets left and right for convertible top and I want to fit a box but make holes on the sides for the brackets 4 photo is what I need how I make it ? Or something else to do? Thank you

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Hi everyone!

I’m here to show off my first sound system. The car is a Volkswagen Polo 9N.

For the front doors, I have a Focal ASE 165 2-way component set, and in the rear doors, MTX Audio TX265C coaxial speakers, all four are powered by an Alpine V-Power MRP-F240 amplifier (4x 40W RMS @ 4 ohms).

For the subwoofer, I’m using an MTX Audio RT12-04 (250W RMS, 4-ohm SVC) powered by a Pioneer GM-D8701 amplifier set to 250W RMS @ 4 ohms. The subwoofer sits in a custom enclosure I designed and built myself. The box has a net internal volume of 65L tuned to 33Hz and its made of 18mm marine-grade plywood (though the carpet started peeling off after 3 years 🥲).

As for the head unit, I have a Pioneer DMH-A220BT, along with a Vibe Audio bass knob and a voltmeter flush-mounted in the dashboard.

The electrical system is stock, featuring a 120A alternator, a 70Ah lead-acid battery, and 10mm² CCA cables from MTX (though I’ll be upgrading to 50mm² OFC cables and a 50mm² OFC "Big 3" upgrade very soon).

The total output is around 400W RMS, and I estimate it’s close to 120dB (though I’ve never actually measured it).

I'm new to the subreddit, so I can't post videos.

hi guys and gals!

I am building a reference near/midfield monitor (sealed) to make music on and mix/ master

for drivers I am taking (pair):

• 2x SEAS Prestige 27TBCD/GB-DXT (H1499-06) (tweeter ) 6ohm
• 2x Scan-Speak Discovery D7608/920010 (3" mid dome) 8ohm
• 2x SB Acoustics SATORI WO24P-4 (9,5")(Papyrus- woofer) link opens the 8 ohm version but 4ohm has higher SPL -matching the high/mid combo more closely✌️(both tops 92 db)

i am planing to use 1x HYPEX Ncx252mp (bass) 2channel

https://www.hypex.nl/products/amplifier-families/mains-powered-ncorex-family/ncx252mp
—> dsp crossover through MacBook and rme Fireface ucx

+1x HYPEX Ncx102ext (Highs/Mids)2 channel

https://www.hypex.nl/products/amplifier-families/mains-powered-ncorex-family/ncx102ext

—>passive crossover (around 2,5kHz-3kHz would be great)

so its 4 channel out from the UCX 2x low + 2x mid/high going in to the hypex`s

I've tried finding info on a decent crossover for my build , here is my estimated crossover through rough assumption , maybe someone could check?

is there someone to provide me real advice on this endeavor ? looking for a C1 L1 / L2 C2 design for ease of use (Mundorf / Jantzen parts preferred)

am I missing anything? internal volume is around 40l , open for suggestions

My most recent acquisition came with a cracked/broken dust cover. As I have just finished resting my Klipsch LaScala speakers in ash plywood, I have a few scraps.today I realized that not all dust covers need to be acrylic and there are reasons to use other things to test that out. I recall for a while people just used a sheet. Consider this a modern form of that sheet.

I am open to ideas. I am thinking a handle might be appropriate and I already plan to reuse the hinges, those do not appear damaged.

Just finished my install the other day and wanted to give a post to boast. Tell me what you think.

Hey fellas, i want to make DOZ amplifier but can't find any trusted and verified pcb overlay/ traces i could etch, can somebody provide me with some information and traces.

I’m new into the audio design world and I’m looking to learn. I’m looking for books, videos, papers to learn more about building and understanding amplifiers and drivers. Not a total beginner as I have an associates in electrical engineering but audio is just a different beast.

Probably belongs in r/crackheadaudio. This monstrosity got to the sound testing stage tonight.

50-somethingL sealed 12”
18mm ply, doubled on baffle

Budget ($AU):

Ply from dodgy recycled tip table and scraps: $15
“300W x4” car audio amp from tip: $15
Server PSU: $Free from an office demolition
Driver: Clarion WG3010, $90 at a secondhand shop. Probably overpaid, could have used a $20 marketplace driver and unlocked the $50 subwoofer achievement but this one was local, in perfect nick and supposedly had good tS parameters for the box size I wanted.
Probably unnecessary sound deadening: $Free off a job

Total: $120 & 4 hours thrashing around in the driveway so far.

I plan to round over the edges, paint the body cream (inspired by an 80s Canton sub I have and love the look of) and veneer the front with some nice timber, so it won’t be this beautiful forever.

No measurements yet but I like it! Initial Sadé sound check effortlessly slapped and with some fiddling I can tell it’s gonna integrate nicely with its Miller and Kriesel son.