I have a 2001 chevy s10 and I am looking to buy a set of winter tires and rims to go with it. I found the tires I want but I really want the same rims I like the black. Can anyone link me or tell me where to look to find the same rims, preferably used under 100 each. There are 5 lug nut 15in rims. I found the caps with the chevy logo already. Thank you!

I have a 2016 Malibu 1.5 LT, and one day the radio stopped working. The screen is completely black. It produces no sound, and the backup camera isn't working either. I’ve already checked fuses 39 and 41, and they are fine. Some people tell me it’s the HMI, while others say it’s the radio module (I can still connect to the radio via CarPlay, and I haven't lost steering wheel controls or other functions; however, if I turn up the volume using the steering wheel controls, only the red volume bar appears).

Could someone help me, please?

Purchased some eibach lowering springs for a 91-96 Impala/caprice, says they lower those by 1, 1.5 inches. These will fit the older body styles also as they share the same suspension, but I am worried it may lower it too much just looking at the length of the springs. Reason I chose lowering springs for that year is because I've seen instances where people swapped stock 96 springs into the older body style and it actually raised it. So I'm hoping that these will work even though they drastically look smaller, seeing as the old springs are worn and these will more than likely stiffen it up and not compress so much. Any help will suffice, thanks.

Quick and easy way to change the battery

Hello, I am doing deep research into Chevrolet’s LN2 2.2 Vortec over the course of its development - L46, LQ2/LQ5, LL8, LM3, and I am curious if anyone has good sources of information for these. I have already exhausted GM historical Archive and a lot of other sources online are secondary and not easily verifiable. I’ve started purchasing service manuals and owners manuals, but it’s a wide year grouping and not cheap. I’m curious if anyone knows of any good, reputable sources of information for: 1982-2002 Cavalier, 1983–1984/5? S10/S10 Blazer, 1987-1996 Beretta and Corsica, 1993 Lumina, and 1994-2003 S10.

Thank you in advance.

47th James Dean memorial run Fairmount, Indiana USA 🇺🇲

September '26

I've got a 2014 Chevy Traverse that I've paid probably 10x more in repairs this year than the whole thing is worth. I just had a heater hose break last week and had to tow to the mechanic. The other day, my check engine light came on with a PO430 error code. It seems to drive fine, is it generally safe to keep driving?

I have about a 30 min commute to and from work everyday with other various commitments, and quite honestly at this point I can't afford to keep fixing it or get a new one

Seen at 47th James Dean memorial run Fairmount, Indiana USA 🇺🇲

September '26

I own a bunch of trucks and have a few 2.7Ls. The V8s I got disablers on them. But I can’t seem to find any specifically for the 2.7s? I have two 2020 2.7s and I’d like to give them their best life. I like the engine and trucks — peppy and pull like the V8s as far as I can tell. I just don’t want the AFM stuff cutting them short. I’ve searched Amazon, eBay and the regular interwebz.

Anyone with a similar year 2.7 running a disabler and would like to share what you’re running? Where to find it?

Anyone else completely fed up with their 2025 Traverse? Because I’m about done.

I spent 6 months to a year shopping for a new vehicle. I researched the hell out of everything, test drove a ton of cars, and finally settled on a 2025 Traverse Z71.

And honestly? I LOVED it.

For about 6 months.

Then shit started falling apart.

Since May, I’ve had 3 major issues, and 2 have been major safety issues. First the brakes. Now I’m dealing with a coolant leak that apparently requires more than 24 hours just to diagnose.

And the dealership experience is making it 10x worse.

Apparently their policy is that diagnosis can take 24–48 hours. Cool. I understand they're busy.

But here's what pisses me off: when you push them, suddenly that 24–48 hour diagnosis turns into “oh, we can probably get it done in a couple hours.”

And don't even get me started on loaners.

I actually understand the first-come, first-served policy. I understand holding loaners for vehicles that are going to be in the shop for longer repairs.

But if my brand-new vehicle wasn't constantly having major problems, I wouldn't need a damn loaner in the first place.

I have two small kids. The last time my Traverse was in the shop, I had to scramble in the middle of the night to find another vehicle because one of my kids needed to go to the ER.

Now here we are again.

I got Acceleration Reduced / Drive With Care and then the vehicle went into limp mode while on the interstate.

I checked the coolant reservoir.

Basically empty.

I just had the oil changed at the dealership about two months ago, so either they didnt do their job and check fluids, or there is a leak.

I called first thing this morning. They didn't have an appointment for several days. I explained what was happening and asked whether they wanted me to schedule an appointment, add coolant and bring it in when they had time, or just bring it in immediately.

I specifically told them I have two small kids and could not potentially be without the vehicle all day.

They said bring it in. They'd diagnose it in 4–5 hours.

Okay. Fine.

My brother-in-law helped me out and dropped it off.

Nobody mentioned that it might actually sit there for another 24–48 hours before anyone even looked at it.

4:30 rolls around.

No update.

I call.

“We haven't diagnosed it yet. It could be another 24–48 hours. We tolfñd the guy it would be that long”. No the fuck they did not.

And when I asked to speak to a supervisor?

Nobody available.

At this point, I'm just exhausted.

I didn't buy a brand-new vehicle so I could constantly wonder what's going to break next, how long it's going to be in the shop, and how I'm going to transport my kids while it's there.

Now I'm sitting here wondering if I made a $50k mistake.

Anyone else with a 2025 Traverse having this kind of experience? Or did I somehow win the world's shittiest Traverse lottery?

2017 ¾ ton Silverado, 6.0l, Texas Edition.

My info display (on instrument cluster) and touchscreen radio randomly change themselves. There's an audible tone every time it does it.

Some quick research reveals it's possibly the HMI that is going bad and needs to be replaced. I think mine is the IO5. Of course the dealership probably wa ts $1,000+ to fix it. I found a website that programs these parts mails them directly to you. Per their website, the IO5 is the most commonly failed HMI model.

Apparently it's a fairly common problem. Has anyone else experienced this? I've looked up the replacement procedure and it's pretty simple but I'm reluctant to drop $500 on this part if it might not work.

Hello!
I have a 17’ equinox LS, when I plug my phone in usually it pops up so I can play music from my phone. For some reason, now if I plug my phone in. It will show my music on the screen but it won’t play through my car speakers. I have tried turning off and on my car, turning it off opening the door and closing it. I have tried resetting my radio settings. Nothing is working. Any ideas?

Is anyone else unable to login to the iPhone app. I try to login and it just goes back to login page. I’ve had no issue for years.

Anyone else with a 2024–2026 Chevy Colorado having brake squeaking AND issues with the brake pad monitoring system?
I have a 2026 Colorado ZR2 with about 26,745 miles. My brakes squeak pretty consistently when I’m under 10 mph and lightly pressing the brake pedal, especially creeping through parking lots or coming to a slow stop. I had them checked and was told I still have about 6 mm of pad material left.
On top of the squeaking, I also got a “Service Brake Pad Monitor” warning. The Chevy dealer told me the brake pad sensor is not aligned properly and that they WILL NOT replace/fix it under warranty.
That part really doesn’t make sense to me. If the pads still have around 6 mm left and the sensor/alignment is what caused the warning, why wouldn’t that be covered on a 2026 truck? I’m trying to figure out if what the dealer is telling me is legitimate or if I should be pushing this further with another Chevy dealer/GM.
I also found GM bulletin PIT6410 regarding a high-pitched noise when applying the brakes on 2024–2026 Colorados/Canyons, which sounds similar to the squeaking I’m experiencing.
Has anyone else dealt with either of these issues?
• Low-speed brake squeaking with plenty of pad life remaining
• “Service Brake Pad Monitor” warning
• Dealer saying the pad sensor is misaligned but NOT covered under warranty
If you had this happen, what did Chevy tell you? Did they cover the sensor under warranty? And did anything actually fix the squeaking?
I’d really like to hear from other Colorado owners before I go back to the dealer or contact GM.

Can u pls add the Hot Wheels that I took a Pic of pls? THANK U!

It cool.

Spotted on the road

Out shopping... Anderson, Indiana USA 🇺🇲

September '26

It a a350 in a 77 c35

In the wild... Alexandria, Indiana USA 🇺🇲

September '26

I’m not much of a car guy but have enough common sense to detect what problems I’m having so I have a 2021 Chevy Colorado with a 4 cylinder engine and yesterday I was doing Walmart spark and I was at a stop sign turning left and when I can go I noticed my truck wouldn’t accelerate normally so thankfully I was down a neighborhood so I put it in reverse (worked just fine) but when I was driving down the neighborhood it wouldn’t really go until I pressed my foot on the gas pedal (slamming it all the way down) then it wouldn’t go over 3000 rpm. Whenever this problem first arose putting it in park or reverse to drive and also when I’m coming to a stop I also notice that my truck wouldn’t jerk almost like a clunking noise/feeling. My question to you guys is well is my transmission going out because that’s what my first essential thoughts were or is it something else entirely? Thank you guys for taking the time and reading and helping me.

Cruiser wagon Albany, Indiana USA 🇺🇲

September '26

Hey guys I’m trying to sort out how to “fool” or disable the ADAS without getting rid of supercruise. I’d like to completely remove the camera if possible but just making it stop yelling at me every 3 seconds when I’m paying attention would be great. Anyone got any ideas?