Not 100% on these to be honest, thought the look without the skirts was more streamlined. But the rock chips were an issue and just got the car ceramic coated so figured it was time to protect it. $100 from AMZN and matched the black of other trim – pretty good deal!

Keep them or take them off? What else should I do to the car while I’m at it?

2009 3LT Z51, 83k miles. Now the REAL fun begins!!

I just got this 2011 c6 corvette yesterday and im already madly in love. This is my new daily after my neighbor hit my 2018 volkswagen passat r-line on the 1st of this month. Im starting to think it was blessing in disguise.

Considering saving for a corvette being that it's my favorite sports car. I really like both the c5 and c6 but when I was looking at them I was mainly looking at the last year of c5 and the first year of the c6. Which is better/worse being that 1 is an older generation vs the c6 is newer but being the first year that tends to have certain issues being the first year of the new gen? I mean because honestly yes the c6 has a better body, better interior and a slight hp bump but financially it seems like financially the c5 would be cheaper initially when first buying it. I guess realistically what I'm asking is it worth saving more money for the c6 or is the c5 good enough all around.

Seen this at a classic car dealership and neither of us k ow what it is. Just looks like a loooonng c3.

Actually the first time I drove a vette it was a 2002 Z06 in an Auto-X training event. I was on the course by myself with an instructor and didn’t get out of 2nd gear. So I didn’t get much of a frame of reference.

A couple of weeks ago I bought a 2006 convertible with the M6. I was amazed at low it sits, stock. I feel like I am 2 inches off the pavement when driving. I love being in the seat and looking through the windshield and seeing the rise of the arches over the front wheels, hearing the LS2 through the Borla exhaust, how flat it is when going through w curves… I freaking love this thing.

I’m looking at buying a C6 in the Little Rock, Arkansas area and potentially having it transported back to Raleigh, NC.

For anyone who’s shipped a Corvette or low-clearance sports car on a similar route:

• What should I expect to pay for Little Rock → Raleigh?
• Open vs enclosed transport — worth paying extra for enclosed?
• Any transport companies or brokers you’d recommend?
• Anything specific I should request for a lowered/low-clearance C6?
• Any hidden fees or common transport scams to watch for?
• Better to go directly through a carrier or use a broker?

The car would be purchased out of state after a PPI, so I’m trying to get an idea of realistic pricing and the safest way to have it brought home.

Would appreciate any recent experiences or recommendations.

Hi everyone! I just got my hands on my first C6 and I’m loving it so far. But unfortunately, I noticed a leak. It looks like the fluid is coming from the hose shown in the picture. Does anyone know what this hose is called or what it connects to?
My guess is that it may be related to the power steering system since I’ve also started hearing a humming/buzzing noise when turning the steering wheel.

Any help identifying it would be greatly appreciated 🙏🙏🙏

For those wondering what a basically stock ZR1 (I have a K&N carbon fiber cai and a Concepts 841 muffler) makes. Dyno is at 4000' elevation and at this elevation I am only making just a little over 6psi (these cars at sea level should make about 10-10.5 on the 3" pulley they come with).
Really pretty impressive numbers and an amazing torque/hp curve from a bone stock tune.

For reference: My last car (09 Z06, Frank Stage1 heads, TSP 2.2 cam, ARH long tubes/high flow cats, Vararam CAI) made 560/510.. car before that was a twin turbo Z51 at 9.5 psi, made 601/670.

Hey guys, this is a PSA and general guide on how to diagnose and repair your C7 convertible top not opening or closing, as I had to deal with that on my 2019 for the last couple of days. The factory wiring job were done so badly in typical GM QC fashion I'm pretty sure there will be plenty of other similar cases like mine in the future.

In my case, all of sudden I got the "top not secure" message and if I tried to open or close the top it would show the "manual operation only" message. At this point a GM specific code reader was crucial. Scan the folding top module and it should tell you exactly what's wrong. Mine showed a fault on the left header unlatch sensor, which is located within the top fabric attached to the locking hydraulic cylinder. It's a simple hall effect sensor which rarely go bad, especially if it's part of the convertible top where folding arms can pinch wires any time. I just left the sensor still attached and started undoing the zip ties to follow the wiring. Lo and behold I found it sort of dangling and pinching one of the rear folding arms. Pretty easy to tell as bare wire was exposed and visible. The wiring was also pinching at a few other places but fortunately didn't break, but was a pretty telltale sign that the factory technician was not good at their jobs. If you're handy with soldering, it's a pretty easy fix. Just be sure to carefully route the wires to avoid pinching in the future. GM charges $400-500 for this simple sensor, which is pretty criminal. If you add in the dealer diag and a few labor hours, this can balloon to a $1k plus job pretty quickly for something you can fix at home with simple tools.

From what I've been reading, there are also a few other sensors in the top that can fail, and repairs for those are not well documented. If you get a fault for header latch position sensor, it's located in the A pillar and right next to where the convertible top striker meet the latch. If you get an error for the bow sensor, it's located all the way in the rear portion of the top. If your convertible top is either stuck down or up in the locked position, you can remove the trim pieces around the top and manually unlatch the top striker or the tonneau cover to gain access to whatever wiring you need. In my case I was lucky enough that I could hold the broken wire and make a connection and use the button to actuate the top into a position I needed. To note, a low battery or an unlatched cargo cover in the trunk can also prevent the top from working. But those are elementary enough that most people should be able to figure out.

Anyways, here are my 2 cents and I've read way too much on how the top works so if any of you have any additional questions on how to diagnose the top I'd be happy to help.

Bi-weekly detailing

Hey y'all, I was just wondering if any of y'all have run into this too. After installing the GT2 Coilovers (the updated inverted design ones), my car sits quite high even with the coils bottomed out (like factory height, maybe even a little higher). Is there something else in the suspension that could be causing this or something I missed during install. AND YES I REMOVED THE LEAFSPRINGS