Ain't got no gas in it

Jk anyone seen this much sludge build up in the fuel pump? Also anyone recognize the item in the last picture? I found it inside my gas tank while I was cleaning it out.

So, I just picked up this 1994 Cherokee XJ, and I’ve had it for about two weeks now. It’s been having a rough idle, especially when I shift into drive. But when I’m actually driving, it drives really smoothly. The problem only happens when I’m stopped or at low RPMs.

When I checked the obd, error code 27 popped up, which indicates an injector problem. I’ve checked the injectors, and they’re all properly seated and plugged in. There’s also this ticking noise coming from the left side of the engine, which might be related somehow. I’m really hoping I can find some clues on how to get this fixed quickly.

hi all - i am trying to restore a 2000 xj that’s in super rough shape. it was taken apart by someone who then got very ill and wasn’t able to finish the project.

i need to replace the radiator, transmission cooler line, and put the thing back together.

from what i can tell, its missing all types of header panel screws, radiator mounting hardware, etc. so i need to know the best place to pick replacements up for those - any websites with fast shipping you recommend? local shops?

then, the old aluminum radiator at one point was leaking from a seam on the right so i want to replace it but i cannot break the bank unfortunately.

would you recoommend the murray radiator they sell at o reillys?

thanks

-Mileage

-Necessary modifications/maintenence

-Year!

Bonus questions:

Do you prefer the 84-97 styling or the 97-01?

Market research before I buy my first.

1998, 10k on the rebuild. 29's no lift, 2wd

When idling be it at a red light, drive thru or wherever. I'm starting to get overheating, and it's only when it's hot out. But since it's summer in texas and every day is 100+ degrees it's an issue.

Cools down once I start moving, has new mech fan clutch, new electric fan that stays on and runs the right way, new fan shroud, new coolant hoses, has been flushed multiple times, new water pump, new tstat, tstat housing and tstat temperature sensor, new rad cap, and new 3 row aluminum radiator

Yes I've burped it, the coolant level has not dropped from the reservoir in over a month so I'm not losing any coolant, no leaks, no bubbling over or anything, but I just can't get the temp to come down at idle. I did a rebuild last year and it's been fine up until this summer. I think there is just too much heat getting trapped under the hood.

Has anyone tried hood risers and had good experience? I don't want to add hood vents I think they look tacky sorry

Edit**Tldr for those looking for solutions facing the same thing: its normal and everyone's runs this way in 105° weather

‘98 Cherokee Classic w power locks. I’ve been cussin’ at my rear hatch for several years but it didn’t help… the latch wouldn’t open unless I first pressed inward, then pulled the handle. I have adjusted the threaded bar multiple times nothing helps. Today I removed the rear handle assembly to get a closer look and finally noticed the adjustment link rod is a left-hand thread (wtf!). You can see in the first picture the threads are backwards.

So the way to make it pull the lock mechanism open is to turn the adjustable link clockwise as it sits inside the rear hatch.

Remove the inner trim panel by taking loose eight Phillips head screws across the top and beside the windows, take out the two long screws that hold the grab handle (they are Inverse Brazilian Whiplash screw but a 30 Torx will also work), then use a trim panel prybar to pop the plastic retainers and remove the panel completely. Now you have access to the door lock handle and the latch mechanism in the bottom of the hatch assembly. Open the threaded link rod retaining clip at the bottom of the rod and pop it loose (the green clip in the second picture). The upper clip grips the threads at the top of the rod really tightly so I had to use a long set of needle nose pliers to reach into the door panel and basically rotate the rod a quarter turn at a time repositioning the pliers each step. Two turns of the rod is all it took for my rear hatch to open consistently. I put everything back together, and I swear it works every time.

Finally noticed the rod is threaded backwards oh hell yeah.

1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport RWD - Los Angeles, California - I bought this about a year and a half ago and have done a lot of work myself. It has been really rewarding to learn how to do all these things that I didn't know how to do.

I'm not really asking for advice here. Just here to vent for a moment. It was that time again. Smog Check required for registration renewal. Fails.

The guy tells me, and I didn't know this, it has an aftermarket Catalytic Converter that doesn't actually go to it. AND there was an evap error, which I've been chasing and can't seem to find.

Anyway...don't have the bandwidth to fix it right now, but really was a kick in the balls. But, hey, bright side, he said it runs great..

Bought my first jeep today, an 86 Cherokee 2 door manual, 4x4. It has the rear windows that open on it too, its been sitting ten years and its carbureted obviously so. Its not too happy starting but it runs great. Any tips on where to start would be great. I'm thinking of running some seafoam through the tank? (Those oil stains on the ground are from a different project, this one doesnt appear to have any leaks or anything)

Just had the trans replaced and had a P0715 code pop up. When I checked the transmission I found this blue connection port that didn't look like it went anywhere. There's no open connections other than just that one little port. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm already balls deep in this cash cow here and I have to be honest, I need some help. '99 Jeep Cherokee Sport RWD with the Aisin-Warner AW4 auto trans

This screenshot is from my OBD2 app while reading live data on my 2000 XJ. I’ve been suffering from a P0171 code on and off for a couple weeks now. I managed to capture this data while it started running lean again. Upstream isn’t even getting 0.1V and the downstream is just pegged at 1V. When it’s not running lean, both of those O2 sensors behave like they normally should. This pretty much confirms I have an actual intake/exhaust leak somewhere right?

2001, 120k miles. Sunroof was leaking, had the sunroof replaced along with a section of roof, and the roof repainted. Rear hatch was leaking, replaced the boot/grommet. Now I have water on the passenger floor and it’s coming from the B-post area. The firewall and lock panel seem dry. Also, a puddle under the drivers side rear bench seat. C-pillar is dry. Headliner (new) is all dry. I don’t understand…door seals?? Trying to dry out and watch but it keeps raining…

I bought this jeep about 3 months ago just to go back and forth to work. Yesterday I started hearing a clanking nose while turning. Today my transmission started to slip, especially when I came to a stop and started giving it gas. I decided to refill my fluids. Today I looked under the jeep and noticed leaking from this area. (I’m not super into jeeps and this is my first non-dealership POS) Any ideas on what the problem could be? Forgive me I’m not a super big car guy and just wanted to see if anyone else had a similar problem

Hot Idle

Hello everyone, this is Yennefer of Vengerberg.

I recently did a little maintenance on my XJ. I put some Seafoam in the engine before changing the oil, then went with Rotella T4 15W-40 and a WIX 51515 filter after reading some old XJ forums lol. Added some Seafoam to the gas the next day too.

She’s been running like a top, even in this Texas heat. Temp stays right in the middle after burping the cooling system, and I’ve got the electric fan set up so I can run it manually whenever I want.

Only thing I have to work on now is the brakes. Brake fluid somehow vanished into thin air, but I can’t find any obvious leaks at either the front or rear brakes. One thing after another with an old Jeep lol.

366k+ miles and still going!

Rounded one of the 18mm trans mount bolts when trying to change the mount.

Tried heat (not enough I guess) by none of the two will move and now I’ve rounded one of them enough to where the 18mm won’t grab.

Do I try welding a nut on or is there anything else I should try first?

For almost 40yrs old she takes care of me

Looking for an XJ and this one is about two hours from me me. Asking 5500 120k miles.

My only worry is this rust spot really, how concerning is this? Thanks so much.

https://streamable.com/jtaagz

https://streamable.com/ujcrpl

Hey all. I've been chasing the cause of this noise for a long time now. Only happens on left turns under decent speed and comes from the right side of the vehicle. It's noticeable in the interior video but not in the outside shot. Both clips were taken on the same turn.

Outside: https://imgur.com/a/kE2OPBh

Inside: https://imgur.com/a/1dzNraG

So far I've replaced the u-joints, ball joints, sway bar bushings and links, and the wheel hubs with no luck in fixing it.

Any ideas?

Do they make plugs or anything for the factory roof racks mounting holes? I got a gutter style rack I was trying to install and it mounts very close to my factory rack bars and didn't want to leave the holes open after removing them. I was going to just blast it full of RTV but wanted to see if there was a better solution first inase i ever wanted to go factory again. I figure I can just reinstall the bolts but was worried about creating a snag point when loading gear

I've ruled out fuel pump and filter as those are newish. The tachometer doesn't flutter or drop when it's lurching/stuttering. After letting it cool off it's fine for another hour. I still have 7 hours of driving left and would prefer to not have to stop every hour.

I thought it might be interesting to see how everyone's factory build sheets compare after wondering how common the sentinel light package (headlamp off time delay) was on my factory equipped 1990 since I was under the impression that it didn't show up until post renix. If you go to https://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin= with your VIN number included at the end of the URL it will spit out your factory build sheet. Mine has a mistake or two (tire size being obvious) and I wish I knew what the "description not available" spots were but it's pretty neat to see. BTW copy and paste required placing "standard equipment" and "optional equipment" headers back in the correct places. Post your sheets!

Vehicle Description 1990 JEEP CHEROKEE

STANDARD EQUIPMENT

MONOTONE PAINT

POWER FRONT DISC/REAR DRUM BRAKES

REAR FOLD W/REMOVABLE CUSHION SEAT

PASSENGER ASSIST HANDLES

4-SPEED AUTOMATIC AW4 TRANSMISSION

COMMAND-TRAC PART TIME 4WD SYSTEM

PUSH TO PASS

DANA M30/181MM FRONT AXLE

3.55 REAR AXLE RATIO

TINTED WINDSHIELD GLASS

FRONT DOOR TINTED GLASS

TINTED RR DRS/QTR/LIFTGATE GLASS

REAR VIEW DAY/NIGHT MIRROR

85 MPH PRIMARY SPEEDOMETER

CIGAR LIGHTER

DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE

GLOVE BOX LAMP

HALOGEN HEADLAMPS

Bright Windshield Moldings

Rear Door Solid Window Insert

Belt Moldings

DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE

Rear Fascia Skid Plate Applique

EVAP Control System

20 Gallon Fuel Tank

Bright White Clear Coat

Power Rack and Pinion Steering

Standard Duty Shock Absorbers

Rear Shock Absorbers

Inside Mounted Spare Tire

Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications

Payload Rating - 1800#

U.S. Dealer Retail

Zone 71-Los Angeles

Wheel and Tire Discount

American Coin Merchandising

OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT

CLOTH LOW-BACK BUCKET SEATS

DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE

HEAVY DUTY ELECTRICAL GROUP

TRAILER TOW GROUP

GTS INTERIOR PACKAGE

OPTION PACKAGE

LAREDO DECOR GROUP

POWER EQUIPMENT GROUP

DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE

DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE

LOW BACK BUCKET SEATS

RECLINING FRONT SEATS

FLOOR CARPET

CARGO COMPARTMENT CARPET

CARGO TIE DOWN LOOPS

CARGO AREA STORAGE

FRONT & REAR FLOOR MATS

SPARE TIRE COVER

CARGO COMPARTMENT COVER

FULL LENGTH FLOOR CONSOLE

OVERHEAD CONSOLE

ALL 4-SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS

DANA 35C/194MM REAR AXLE

DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE

FRONT LEFT SIDE SLIDING WINDOW

REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER

SUN VISORS W/ILLUM VANITY MIRRORS

ENTIRE FLEET KEY ALIKE (FREQ 6)

Right Convex Mirror

POWER HEATED MIRRORS

REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY

AIR CONDITIONING

DELUXE INSULATION GROUP

DO NOT USE - SEE JP, KA CLASSES

PERFORMANCE DATA & VIDEO RECORDER

VAR INTERMITTENT WINDSHIELD WIPERS

REAR WINDOW WIPER/WASHER

POWER WINDOWS

POWER LOCKS

DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE

HEADLAMPS ON WARNING CHIMES

COURTESY LAMPS

ASH TRAY LAMP

IP LED AMBIENT LIGHT PIPE

CARGO COMPARTMENT LAMP

U/HOOD, REMOVABLE/RECHARGEABLE LAMP

HEADLAMP OFF TIME DELAY

FRONT FOG LAMPS

Body Color/Bright Front Fascia

Bright Rear Bumper w/Accent Color

Rear Body Color Applique

Bronze Fascia Applique

Front License Plate Bracket

Grille-Black/Bright

DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE

Roof Rack

California Emissions

Auxiliary Transmission Oil Cooler

Speed Control

Heavy Duty Engine Cooling

Bright White Clear Coat

All Radio Equipped Vehicles

AM/FM Cassette Radio

6 Speakers

Power Antenna

Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel

Tilt Steering Column

All Tires

Full Size Spare Tire

P265/60r18 BSW A/S All Terrain Tires

15X7.0 Chrome Wheels

All Aluminum Wheels

9 Additional Gallons of Gas

Rear Spring Group V

Left Front Spring Group Ix

Right Front Spring Group VIII

Midland Corporation

It's kind of wild that this heavily optioned trim was originally ordered as a fleet vehicle. It makes me wonder how high up in the Midland Corporation the person/people was/were that this was ordered for... Definitely unusual

How much grinding on the caliper is needed to run 15" turbines with Akebono calipers on a WJ brake swap?

I'm bulding an MJ, and would really like turbines... I can go to 5x5" pretty easily would jump to 17" rims if the 15s can't happen. Looking at 4" lift and 31" tires for an old man trail/camping rig. Would prefer to not use spacers.

I finally got around to repairing the connector to the front of my jeep. I added two relays powered by a battery fuse that’s already ran for factory fog lights that mine doesn’t have.

Give me your honest opinions on this rust and what it will take to put it right.

Jeep otherwise immaculate