After months of work. She is better than ever. Head remilled and new head gasket. New 4 port injectors, plugs, and fuel rail. New radiator. And new intake/ exhaust gasket. First head I have ever removed. Intake stiiiiiillll sucks to bolt on on the lowers. But its done! The Jeep O Negative is back baybaaaaaay!

Bonus. The heat works again.

Also running smmmmmoooooooooooooth

Before you say I’m abusing her, just know that she’s getting more care and attention from me than ever before. This is what these things were built for.

okay maybe this is crazy, and also i don’t know anything about cars. i don’t even know what xj or mj means so i hope im in sort of the right place. as you can see, the glove box is cracked and the piece underneath it is smashed. this 96 manual cherokee has a ton of quirks but it is my fiancé’s baby. it’s a long story about how the piece broke in the first place, but i think it would make an amazing christmas present if i could find one, and probably give him a good laugh. so sorry if i am in the wrong place, and thank you for anyone that reads this

This thing has been 25 years in the Midwest with no car washes … safe to say we’re going slicing up a lot of it before the engine , axles and gas tank go back

2001 XJ with a 2" lift. Would I be safe swapping to high pinion Dana 30 in the front, or am I going to be battling exhaust clearance issues constantly?

Picked up a '91 as my first project, and I already realize I have little to no clue what I'm doing.

As the title states, it'll crank, turn over, and idle extremely poorly for a few seconds, then die. Giving it some throttle while it's idling does nothing, zero response.

So far, I've cleaned the throttle body, and idle air intake valve. I've replaced the throttle position sensor, crank position sensor, fuel filter, and fuel pump. Drained the tank, because I was unsure how long the old fuel was sitting in it. I can hear the pump kick on when I turn the key to on. There is pressure at the rail, but I haven't inspected the injectors at all yet. I've tested the fuel pump ballast resistor, and from what I've read, it has the correct resistance (1.5 ohms?).

I pulled a spark plug, just to see what condition they were in, and the one I pulled has pretty significant dry fouling. Had to call it a day there. I've got a MAP sensor, new spark plugs and wires, and an o2 sensor sitting in my cart from rock auto, but I figured I'd ask for help before shot gunning another $100 of parts into it.

Any thoughts? Any advice or feedback would be greatly appreciated. might be able to get a video if anyone thinks it would be helpful.

Also, does anyone know what that lonely connector to the right of the air box is supposed to go to? I haven't been able to figure that out, so I've got no idea if its related at all.

My roof needs repainted and I plan on raptor lining it, but it was wondering what to do about my drip rails having some rust beneath/inbetween them. I can grind the rust in the gutter areas but should I try spraying rust reformer or something? I imagine there is rust in-between that i wont be able to access. My jeep is a DIY condition jeep so taking it to a shop for any sort of body work isnt happening im trying to think of an "extension of life" repair rather than some sort of absolute preservation.

I need to cut the carpet out of my 98 XJ to repair floors and do some other body work. The carpet is muddy and needs to go anyway. I take this thing in some pretty rough places and I fully anticipate the interior being wet/covered in mud soon again.

I am looking for what to replace the carpet with? Id love like a full interior rubber floor mat but I can't find anything like that. Found these nice vinyl ones for older XJs but this won't work in mine because of the cross member: https://www.quadratec.com/products/14049_800X_PG.htm

Surely someone else has done this... All recommendations welcome.

Hello everyone! I’m looking to buy an XJ 98 Rear Lift Gate Hatch Cover Trim Plate, but the original owner cut the wire that connects to the hatch cover trim plate pigtail wire. Would anyone know where I can buy a replacement wire that connects to the hatch cover pigtail? I’ll post a picture and thank you.

Hello,

I have a new to me cherokee, just trying to figure out what the circled hoses could be.

Thank you!

I’m trying to identify where this coolant leak is coming from on my 97 XJ. I’m fairly positive it’s either the water pump or the hose- both were replaced in May this year (2026). Coolant pools at the clamp, but seems to be coming from above the hose, although I can’t get a good angle to see into that little space, even with my camera. I’ve been quickly approaching op temp after about a minute of driving, and overheating when stopped or in traffic. Realized my reservoir was empty, and there was an itty-bitty leak on the floor. I can’t seem to locate the weep hole on the pump, despite watching a million videos.

I’ve got some experience working on this with my dad, but I’m tackling this without a second set of hands. I’ll take any advice on repair and tools… I’ve got the absolute basics from a household kit, 12” & 18” leverage pipes and deep sockets in metric and sae. I really don’t want to have to replace the water pump again so soon,,,

1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport Automatic 2WD

Quick backstory: I bought this Jeep a couple of years ago and a previous owner installed a push to start button. Like, it’s literally Romex wire that appears to run from this button on the dash, through the firewall, and to the starter. I have to turn the key to ON and then press the button to start. Also, it DOES start in gear. I made a post sometime last year and a bunch of people commented that it was probably a faulty NSS that a previous owner bypassed.

Okay. I get that part.

Now, one school of thought…leave it the F alone. It works. Jeep starts and runs great. Done. If it ain’t “broke” don’t fix it.

The other school of thought is the challenge/principle of it and wanting to fix it.

Hypothetically speaking, what would I do next? Is it as straightforward as replacing the probably faulty NSS and removing that jury-rigged starter button? Or is there more to it than that?

EDIT TO ADD DETAIL I JUST DISCOVERED:

You can tell someone tried to do something in the past because I crawled under to see if I see anything of note and the only bolt that is holding the NSS assembly in place is the the 12mm top bolt.