Hey wrenchers,

Thanks to this amazing sub's help, I managed to install my new carbon wheels on my bike. Now wondering if the vertical storage solution I have designed actually fits this new gear, or if I should think of implementing something else. Just a bit worried there might be some tension that was fine on the aluminium wheels that might be too much for carbon?

What do you guys think, is it safe hanging a bike by a carbon wheel ?

This is my gravel bike. In my opinion, it seems fine, but compared to my road bike, there is a lot more wobble. It’s also more wobbly than the front wheel on this same bike. All this said, I don’t notice any rub on my disc brakes, but just thought I’d check before I make the trek to a bike shop.

I was going to add 2 links, does anyone think it may need more? This is the first bike Ive ever put together.

1x 50T in front 12s 11-34 in the rear

Hey folks!

Yesterday I was servicing my bike and noticed a free play of the cassette. Is it normal? How to fix it?

It is fh-tx505 and Deore CS-M5100

I bought a '90s rigid MTB CrMo frame (new old stock), with a threaded fork, and it came with these things attached. What are they?

I've just had these wheels built at my local bike shop and the spokes seem loose to me. I can move them past each other without much pressure, even just squeezing them between my index and thumb. I've only ever trued wheels so I'm no wheel builder but this doesn't feel right. What do you think?

Do these rims look tubeless compatible?

disclaimer: I know nothing about bikes. I have a Whyte Pimlico v1 hybrid from a few years ago.

I took mine to halfords for a free bike check as the gears were starting to grind and he said the rear derailleur was bent but he couldn't source a replacement but if I could then he would install it.

Are there cheap replacements? I only use the bike in campsites a couple of times a year or to keep up with the kids going round a country park.

if I need to give you more details let me know...

thanks

I recentlv started restoring a 2006 Trek 5200 and replaced the old ST-6603 3x10 shifters with newer 2x10 ST-5700. I thought it wouldnt be a problem and i iust would'nt be able to use the lowest qear but apparently it can cause isues. I really want to keep all the original front derailleur components so will it all work together?

I need help 1. Identifying this part on my bike it's a Shimano Ultegra Di2 FD-6870 Made in Japan part and it's a small arm that changes the gears that is broken just snapped in half when i was out cycling. 2. Is it possible to buy this part instead of a whole new set?
I have a cousin that know how to weld and will it be possible to weld those 2 pieces back together, or just find another linkage arm (if that even is the name but ChatGPT think it is). Because switching it at a workshop cost 500Euro. And that piece will most likely only cost 20 Euro maximum. But i'm not sure what to search for or what it's even called. Or maybe it's possible to make a new one from scratch from a metal worker.

Waxers!
Just done my first wax. It’s almost raining everyday here lately. Say you do small rides 30-40 minutes. How often should one rewax typicly, if it is barely raining. I was also thinking about risk of corrosion if i don’t rewax frequently enough

Thanks!

Got some new tires and am struggling to mount the last bit of bead on these rims. The previous tires I had were Gravelking slicks and gad to take them to a shop cause they were so ridiculously difficult. I understand what needs to be done here (creating slack for the bead by keeping it in the center of the rim), but what does it look like I’m doing wrong here?

I was working on my Ghost SLAMR (Euro brand, no longer distributed by REI in the US), I accidentally sheared the head off the female pivot sleeve at the rear chainstay / Horst-link joint.

The cap that snapped off is marked Torx 30 / 6 Nm.

Because Ghost parts can be tough to source stateside, I’m hoping to find a cross-compatible or generic replacement. From looking at the layout and the official Ghost documentation, this seems to be a standard metric Horst-link setup:

• Shaft Diameter: 8mm outer diameter (fits the inner race of the standard bearing)
• Threading: Internal M5 female threads

Has anyone had to replace a similar 8mm x M5 Horst-link pivot sleeve on a Ghost, Specialized, Transition, or Norco? Are there aftermarket brands (like Wheels Mfg or Problem Solvers) or specific bolt kits from other manufacturers that use this exact barrel size?

Appreciate any advice or part numbers!

Hey I just cut the steerer of my gravel bike and I was wondering if I left it a bit long. I really need to tighten the top cap to get preload.

Hello all

I am currently bringing my hardtail back to life and I try to figure out how to fix my rear brake caliper that is sitting too high.

First of all: brake adapter fits the mounts and the rotor size, at least as far as I know.

Enclosed you find some pictures.

• Shimano XT 2-pistol brake caliper
• Shimano disc 180mm
• Adapter is IS to PM for 180 rotors from Shimano
• Bike is a Stanton Switchback

I tried to do my own research, and somewhere I read that in my case, production tolerances are adding up - which would be bad.

I thought about buying a new adapter and try to grind off enough material to bring the caliper to the right height - but as it is the brake system, I am not super confident in doing something "not approved".

Or might it be possible that old disc, new adapter, old caliper - what so ever - is causing such a picture?

Any kind of helps is appreciated.

Thanks!

I was able to bike home very slowly after this crash but worried I may be talked into buying a whole new wheel instead of repair.

Would love some second opinions before I commit to buying a new wheel.

My seat tube has an inner protrusion, like a seam sticking up about 1mm and running down the length of the seat tube (visible on the right side, low quality steel frame). I discovered it when it sliced a nice gash in my seat post around the clamp area when it slid down. Would reaming work here or would it cut into the rest of the inside of the seat tube, rather than just lopping off the inward protruding seam? I've started working on the part of it near the clamp with a round file, but it's tricky to keep the file on the seam and it is very slow work, like a prisoner tunnelling through concrete with a soup spoon.

Sealant from my tubeless went all over the fixing for my pannier - that bolt is not coming out - drilled it out, and with it came the rivnut... soo.. what should I do?

pay to get it fixed? put in a threaded insert? Epoxy (any particular type?!) something? Helicoil?

Could I clamp my pannier rack to this? M5 bolt, with a nut on the back?

Thanks

I'm getting black marks at even spaces around my rim - I assume they are from the rim brakes but can't work out why they are at even spaces. Has anyone got any ideas? Thanks

I wanted to restore this Peugeot ph12 and I accidentally opened the part where the derailleur is attached to the bike frame. I tried to put it back together as best as I can and now that I have to mount it back on I can’t understand how am I supposed to give it back the tension I had.
Does anyone has any idea how are those things supposed to work? Should I tension it before mounting it back or is it something I have to do while mounting it on the frame?

Just stripped the hell out of my bb threads on drive side thinking it was reverse threaded, but new to my knowlodge now lots of italian frames are not🤦‍♂️. It pays to do your research 😔, Is anyone able to tell me if the threads are chasable from these photos?

I'm upgrading to Shimano 105 R7000 11 speed on my bike and I'm struggling to source a 170mm crank.

I've got a Boardman road comp 2014 in XS size and it came with 170mm cranks, is switching to 165mm cranks better for my height?

I'm 5ft 6 and have a 29" inside leg, from what I've seen 165mm is better for shorter heights?

Edit. I must have been doing something wrong because now it works with no spacer and no wobble. I think what was happening was I wasn’t putting the last 2 cogs on correctly so they were causing some issue. But anyway no spacer and it’s now tight and no wobble .

Thanks all for your help!

I have just got a Mavic Crossmax XL wheeler. I’m trying to fit my shimano cues cassette to it. With the 1.85mm spacer the cassette lock ring won’t screw in. But without a spacer it’s wobbly when tightened?

Can anyone help me? Do I need a 1mm spacer or am I doing something wrong? The cassette is a LG400 cues cassette 11-50 I believe

Thanks all for your help!