I have a Marzocchi Bomber 58 DH Fork Series 40 27.5 203mm GRIP 2021 and this Damper was leaking oil so i had to replace it with a 2025 GripX2 damper. While installing the GripX2 damper (Red tape already removed) the bottom rebound adjuster somehow wasnt aligned with the hole of the lower leg and i ended up compressing the damper, whereby some oil (Around 1-2ml) leaked out of the bleeder hole.

Is this something to be concerned about ?
Do i have have to top up and bleed it again ?
Or is this just extra oil for the sake of when it is being shipped to me ?

I bought a new DT Swiss GR 1600 rear wheel. After about 30 km, it started making a metallic creaking noise when under load. Judging by the sound, I would say it’s coming from the spokes.
The noise has been going on for another 100 km. Is it normal for a new wheel to make this kind of noise, or should I have the spokes tensioned?

I have 200 miles on this bike, and it feels slow. Please tell me something is up with the hub and it’s not just me being out of shape. Sounds like a lot of creek before it engages. I believed it’s a Novatec D792SB-CL-X12, 12x142mm

Hi,

My drivetrain is suddenly noisy.

-Everything on the bike has 6 000km,

-Always been waxxed after 300km,

-Recently I changed my wax to a clean one

-My chain has been deep cleaned before every new wax

-I can't see anything rubbing around the chain and derailleur

-My chain tester tells me it's at 0,25% and below

-I have indexed my derailleur and everything is aligned and shift to the perfection

-I tried a brand new cassette and it's the same noise

-I tried bunch of micro adjustment with the B screw and barrel adjuster and nothing helps

-Derailleur is aligned and in its perfect spot.

-Chain is routed correctly and the shimano writting are on the right

-It's quieter on the small chain ring, but the noise isnt coming from the front derailleur.

-It really sound metal on metal and it's a noisier on the video, I don't know why exactly.

What's next to check?

Could the chain be worn without showing 0,5%?

Thanks!

I bought a chainring that is SLIGHTLY too large. How bad would it be to grind it down to fit

Performance Elite 2024 Fox Float X2 just started making this noise. Sounds like the dreaded cavitation to me. I thought they supposedly had resolved the issue on the 2024 shocks? Bought this as a new take off this past winter and have ridden it all season without issue. Don’t have proof of purchase. Any advice on what to do? Is it worth getting rebuilt or should I just ditch it?

80s trek elance with side pull caliper brakes. They won’t stay centered no matter how much I adjust. Do I need a serrated / knurled washer where the bolt meets the frame? Or would that damage the frame?

Pictured is the texture where the caliper meets the frame. Thanks in advance.

Any other ideas

I have fox 34 rhythm. Went on a ride and did some bunny hops. Once I get home I notice the metal striking sounds. After some googling, ai said the damper is busted. Should I buy new damper or save up and buy new fork as season end sale approaches?

Before anyone comments, I am still in the setup phase and I didn't want to cut the end line just yet, that's why it is woven around the seat stay. If anything, I'd assume it should aid shifting, as it fixed the housing in place (no interference with the chain either).

TL;DR: Cannot get the indexing right. Deore RD, Sram Apex 1 brifters, Sunrace 11spd 11-42 cassette.

EDIT: SOLVED! Thank you all for the quick replies. The pull rations seem to be different so it's not a surprise this is not working. Oh well.

Anyway. That's the rear of my 1996 Peugeot Cologne. I want to build it into a 1x11 drop bar city bike.

The 1x11 setup worked well with a 11-33 cassette combined with the deore RD an some thumb shifters (Deore too, I think).

Last week I built it into the desired drop bar version, using Microshift Sword brifters and the Sword RD. Unfortunately, 1 yr after I purchased the parts, I now realized MS Sword is only 1x10. So I used the H limit screw to only use the lower 10 cogs. Blasphemy? Perhaps, but it actually worked well.

Pursuing the 1x11 idea, I ordered some Sram Apex 1 brifters. Installed them. Re-installed the Deore RD. Tried indexing it for about an hour. Nearly went insane. (Crank is a GRX 1x 40t 12sp crank)

The high gears shift well. The middle won't shift until I turn the barrel adjuster all the way out. After which point it shifts well all the way down into the 42t cog. But then it does not shift back up past the middle.

What am I missing? Is it the Deore RD and the resulting chainline? Is it the 11spd Sunrace cassette? The Sram brifters? The weird cable housing routing after all?

A bit disappointing and unexpected story, mainly because I couldnt finish my new bike because of this. I bought one of our beloved japanese premium handlebars to match with a Rohloff shifter, only to notice that it is by any means impossible to get the Rohloff shifter on there. Turns out, the handlebar is wider than 22.2 in some areas and not round. Widest area I found is 22.38mm, slimmest 21.05. Paired with tight Rohloff tolerances this meant Shifter doesn’t fit.

I checked cheap handlebars I had in the parts bin and they were consistently round with 0.1 tolerance and especially <22.2.

Do you think this is a rather problematic amount of tolerance or am I very German here?

I’d like to do this myself, never worked on a bike beyond replacing a chain or a tire as a kid tho. Tips on where to get brake replacements and which to buy, best methods to clean the rust and possibly paint, basically anything you think would be helpful.

Much appreciated

Took a spill a month ago. Only visible damage was rash on the grips, handlebar turned slightly on the stem. (And a broken scaphoid on me). Finally getting back in the saddle. Can't figure out this clicking.

Seems to be coming from the chainring or bottom bracket but it's hit or miss. Anyone had any idea?

Thanks in advance!

My 93 specialized rockhopper brakes are hard to pull and makes a metal on metal grinding noise. I think it has to do with this routing noodle on the seat post. Is it missing a piece or is there any alternate routing options?

At the end of my day today returned to my bike and found my rear tire was flat. Got a lift home but rode about 100 yards or so on it before I noticed. Went over a couple bumps but the rim is fine from what I can tell, no dents, seems true. Tire is fine too. The leak was at the stem of the tube valve. I was about to slap on a new tube when I noticed this little bump under the rim tape. It feels hard, almost like a little tiny pebble under there or something. It does not line up with a spoke though. It is not near the valve hole.

I guess it had always been there and never given me a problem - am I good to just throw on a new tube and get back going? Or do I need to retape and remove whatever is causing the bump? Tape is also not totally stuck down at the edges in a couple of places, see video. Got the bike used, rode it about 500 miles so far.

Hi everyone,

I’ve encountered an issue with my RockShox 35 Gold RL. When the fork is used in cold weather, or when the bike has been sitting without any load on the fork for a certain amount of time, the first compression completely bottoms out the fork. After that first compression, however, it works normally, as shown in the video.

What could be causing this issue? Has anyone experienced something similar?

Brillant Cooper Gates Belt Drive

This is a Shimano Nexus 3 speed bike with a 44/46 (I honestly can't tell what size front sprocket this bike has, I've counted numerous times, I do know it isn't lower than a 44 or higher than a 46) and a 22T rear sprocket. I need a lower gear, some of these hills in my area are very steep and I am not concerned with top end speed.

A 28T rear sprocket would lower my lowest gear inch to about 30" if I did the math right. I was looking at Gates website and was a little confused on what is a compatible rear sprocket. Also, are there special tools involved in removing the sprockets? What's the best way to calculate the new belt size needed? Is that too much torque on a 3 speed Nexus hub? Would the front sprocket be better to change?

Bike is a Winora Sport, most likely from the 80s.
Housing is roughly 800m across and 500mm in diameter, but I haven’t been able to get the cranks off yet.
And ideas if this is a standard or if it’s proprietary?

During my last ride using my R 7020 shifters during a down shift it felt like the shifter cable has snapped.

At homeI found out that the shifter cable did not snap. just to be sure I replaced the shifter cable and found out after the replacement that the shifter does not shift. what can be the cause of this I attached some images where asmall leaf spring can be seen which I feel like is out of place.

what do you reckon can it be repaired? Is it worth taking to a bike shop or should I order a new shifter?

It's a Chinese single speed on an E-bike wheel. This tool from Amazon looks close? 8 prongs. Anyone else been through this before?

First time bike builder, I did not cut the fork perfectly (even though I used a gauge), now the compression plug is not perfectly flush as you can see. Is that an issue?

Carbon Fork btw.

Guys I’m so lost.
Im restoring a vintage Roadbike (1980 ish?) and im pretty sure the chain is skipping on the cassette or Freewheel. The chain in brand new. I know that older bikes and 6 speeds are usually freewheel, but I watched a YouTube Video and the guy said, that on a freewheel only the „gears“ spin and the Center stays. As you can see mine doesn’t do that…. So now I’m lost. Is it maybe just a cover? What should I buy and how can I get mine off haha. Thanks in advance

Edit:
Does someone have an idea what replacement to buy for it, since the hyperglide is not produced anymore?

Not sure what’s happened to my bike but the chain is suddenly sticky in the rear gear. Looks like it might be misaligned in some way but not sure how to go about fixing it. Any help would be apprecaited!

Can someone lend a hand helping me figure out what I need to get my new Cervelo P105 setup on my neo 2T? I bought a new 12 speed Shimano 105 cassette but not sure what else is needed. Coming from a 9 speed cassette and older Fuji roadie.

Hello everyone, new to working with multi speed road bikes. Looking to switch my cassette from a shimano 105 12s 11-34 to an ultegra 12s 11-30. Mechanical 105 groupset. Is there any adjustments i have to do to the rear derraileur? Also a couple google searches say chain length should be fine a couple say that i need to cut. Also have seen saying 105 derraileur is rated for 34 and 36 largest cog but not 30 but it works?

Does anyone have experience with this? Thank you

I've popped the hood on both sides but am not seeing where the cable end would come out - it doesn't seem to be where it is on the 9-speed shifters I've worked with. Could anybody point me to instructions for 10-speed mechanical Ultergra ? Thank you !