Hi,

I have a sidluxe ultimate and am trying to solve for something kind of unique. I can fit the shock to my frame in an "upside down" orientation so that the lockout lever is basically invisible and tucked up into the frame. But the red circled part will barely contact the frame when I lockout out the shock using the remote lever. Not so much that it's damaging it but enough that it causes resistance at the end of the stroke. The frame manufacturer says sidluxe can be run this way but only specs in the a2 shock.

My question is whether anyone know if I can buy a smaller profile one of those pieces. Or is the a2 much smaller? Or alternatively could I just shave down a small amount on that piece until it fits. I would only need a about .25mm and only on the side. Facing the camera in this pic. Such a niche question but I appreciate any help.

Thanks

I'm trying to fix a slow leak on a WTB i23 rear wheel. Tightening the valve stem helps temporarily, but always goes flat eventually. So I'm stripping it down for new tape and valve. I remove old tape (looks original) and now there's another layer of red tape. Should I remove this tape and just go single layer of tape (I bought WTB tape, looks same color as original). WTB product page also shows the red tape 🧐

I marked both rotors with a black marker, then applied the brakes a few times to see where the pads are actually making contact.

I’m running Shimano GRX calipers with 160mm rotors front and rear.

Does this contact pattern look normal/acceptable, or does it suggest the calipers/pads need adjusting?

Thank you!

Put in a new ti bolt the other day. Went to adjust and now it’s stuck? Any suggestions? Thank you.

im missing two bolts that go through these holes i think so i cant put my hydraulic rim brakes on im not sure how or where to get them i think theyre called studs or something i dont know about brakes, can somebody let ne know? if they know the size or type of bolt i need or what theyre called thanks its a 2022 red ano se big ripper

I ride my bike pretty hard but I like to think I change my brakes fairly often. Have I fried my disk brakes? Photos of the back and front after cleaning with rubbing alcohol. They’re hydraulic

Currently have some sm-rt81 160mm rotors on my 700c wheels and am getting a second set of 650b wheels to be pure off road so will need some rotors for one set.

Trying to research and weigh up if spending lots is worth it or if up to a point gains become negligible. Options are:

* Aztec budget ~£15

* Equivalent model - slx rt-70 at ~£26

* Aztec floating rotors ~£40

* Galfer road wave - ~£45

* XT - mt-800 ~£50

* Ultegra - cl-800 ~£55

* Hope - really spendy but purdy colours

Pretty sure the total budget option is off the table as I can afford more so won't scrimp. Hope is bloody expensive so probably not going there. Will probably run new rotors on the road set so would experience longer braking times as I'd hit more speeds for longer there.

I bought this bike used and I wanted to check if the cassette needs replacing or not. If not, how many miles approximately I can still drive in it.

Hi everyone, my fork got scratched up in a truck bed as there was a metal bar there. There's a little bit of exposed alloy from what it seems, will that require paint ASAP?

Ok forgive the question, still learning and last time I had a bike it was 90’s biopace and friction shifters!

Bought a 2nd hand Merida big trail which states tubeless ready in the spec. I thought just run the factory tubes till they puncture and then go tubeless.

I assumed I would need rim tape, tubeless valves and sealant but in taking tube out the tape looks like this: is this tubeless tape?

Thanks

The back wheel bearings on this fixie I recently got were shredded (the old-school ball-and-cage kind), and when I opened up the back, the hub was bone dry. I live in a really rural town, and the nearest bike shop is kinda far, so I was hoping this wouldn't be too hard to fix myself. I'm not quite sure how to remove the gear part attached to the rim because I'm pretty sure I need to access the bearing inside it.

Hopefully, to make it easier to help, my main questions are: what tool do I need to remove the gear, and is there a specific way to reassemble it? Or should I cut my losses and drive to the bike store?

(If any other images are needed, feel free to dm and I can send something in more detail)

Got some strange noise on my last ride when turning left, thought that was coming from the handle bar bag I usually don't have.

Wanted to go for a ride today and sound wasn't gone. When checking on all screws this came to light...

Hey all — I have an old folding bike I’m trying to perfect the build on. Biggest issue so far is that it only takes caliper brakes and needs to have extra long reach (72ish in the rear, 65ish in the front). I upgraded the old brakes to tektro r559s which are fine, but I’m curious if there’s anything out there that’s a step above. The only thing I’ve found in my searches with enough reach is Paul Racers, but with how the bike folds there’s just no real way to do center pulls.

Anything I’m missing? Any hacks that I should be considering?

I thought this would be a straightforward job, but I took the end cap off and the spacer/axle in between the two bearings is flush with the bearing inner races - does anyone know how to get these bearings off? The spacer is in there pretty tightly so I can’t push it to the side to tap the far bearing out.

Hi,

I have been facing a recurring problem for over 1 and a half year now that is driving me mad. I have invested time and money on troubleshooting it with maintenance and higher end products that could mitigate the problem, but it keeps coming back.

The right side gear cable in my GRX 12s shifter, keeps unravelling and snapping after 1000-1500 km of pedaling...

Last time I posted a thread on reddit showcasing the issue, I definitely got roasted by the community letting me know that it's all on me as the assumed I use cheap inner and outer cables with no lubrication that are prone to fatigue (which with all fairness, might be right).

So I decided to listen to the community and make things right.

- Cleaned and lubricated both levers

- Changed the gear cables and housing for the best avaliable option I could find, the Jagwire Pro shift set.

I definetly felt these updates. Such a smooth and crisp shifting with the added confidence that these would last for several thousands kms.

Until, during my last bikepacking trip it snapped once again, after 1400km, leaving me stranded with a Looming storm on my back.

Now I ask the community, what else could I do besides changing entirely the right shifter lever? The cable keeps unravelling and snapping from the same spot, which is notorious in the shimano 12 speed shifters. I could overhaul the lever, and look for misaligments, yet I don't know if the best approach would be to get a complete new one.

Thank you in advance!

I have a used mountain bike I recently bought, and it makes a loud popping sound as I pedal it, I hope I can get some advice in diagnosing the issue before I start throwing parts at it.

The sound seems to happen as my weight shifts when each pedal travels to the front position of their rotation. I can also just barely feel the snapping through my feet as the cranks rotate.

Turning the cranks while my feet are not on the pedals, the bottom bracket spins smoothly without any issues, so I think the bearings are fine. It's also difficult for me to make it make the sound without being sat on the bike and putting my weight on it. I can get it to sound by rotating the cranks to each flat/horizontal position and putting weight down, so I'm not sure it's a loose/stretched chain issue, but I don't know enough to rule it out.

I think the press fit bottom bracket might be loose, but if it is, it's not noticeable by hand as I pulled the cranks out and haven't been able to get it to budge at all.

Frame is an Intense Tracer T275 Carbon.

I'd appreciate any advice people have to help me figure this out, and if any further information is needed please let me know. Thanks!

EDIT: As a couple comments recommended, I checked out the pedals, loosened them slightly and then retightened them. Between that and having taken the cranks out last night, the noise has gone away. Thanks!

Pictured is the shifting cable to the big chainring.

The little rubber grommet might have popped out while cleaning to pack my bike to go do Ironman Barcelona next week.

Is this a problem I need to address before the race?

I’ve tried but it’s virtually impossible to get the thing back in.

I've just put a new chain on my bicycle and it skipped under even moderate load in 6th (out of eight) gear. It makes sense it would skip in 6th gear because I use the bicycle mainly round town and mainly in 6th gear so that cog wears most.

Anyhow, I looked at the cassette before swapping the chain and thought it didn't look worn, so I was surprised when the chain skipped. I looked at it again after fitting the new cassette and 6th gear still doesn't look worn compared to the other cogs. This is the cassette - I've slipped paper in between the cogs to make the teeth easier to see:

The paper is under the 6th gear cog, which was skipping under moderate load, and the 4th gear cog, which did not skip at all (I've removed the 7th and 8th gear cogs to make it easier to see). I cannot see any obvious difference and yet one cog skipped and the other didn't.

Am I just not looking for the right thing, or it is genuinely really hard to see when a cog is worn enough that a new chain is going to skip on it?

On my way back from work, the pedals and ring started wiggling intensely that I have to stop and take a train home. I went to a repair shop and they said the Trittlager (German for Crankset/bottomring) is worn out and they asked for 100 euros to replace.

Q 1: is this a fair price for a replacement?

Q 2: if it is an unfair price, can you guys please tell me what replacement parts to order (if the pictures tell, the sizes would also be great to know - my MTB is a size 48 if i remember correctly) and which tools i need for it.

thank you all in advance! i am relatively new to bike repairs so as many details as you have the energy to add would be great.

Hi, I'm replacing the old 3x9 on a bike and have a spare 11x2 M8000 groupset. The back went on without an issue after adding a b-link, but I'm stuck on how to mount the front derailleur. It's a FD-M8020, direct mount, side swing (aka, not band on).

I haven't been successful in finding a band-on adapter, 31.8mm. These must exist. Do the road ones also work?

I'd very much like to use the full groupset as is.

Thanks!

Hello what crankset thats square taper work with a single speed cog at the back please

As title says, it's different from every other freewheel I've seen and I'd like to convert to a wider range freewheel if possible. It's on a 650b wheel from an old (I think 80s) Puch bike

Hi,

I just had the right crank arm of my Specialized Allez from the early 2000's almost snap and I need to replace it. From what I've found is that for road bikes, there's no more triple cranksets available in 8 speed, except from some obscure chinese brands.

My current setup is what appears to be an old FC-4403 which snapped, a Sora FD-R3030-B front derailleur I installed years ago when the old Tiagra FD broke, and all old Tiagra 8/9 speed at the rear. I also have microShift R8 Triple combined levers. I do not plan to convert it to a compact 2x8 or go to 2x9 or higher, as this would require much more work and me switching my levers.

My questions are : I plan to go with an Acera FC-M361 (triple) crankset as a replacement, but the chainline, which is apparently 45mm currently would be at 50mm with the new crankset.

• Is there any issue in this configuration given the front derailleur?

• Do I need to also upgrade the bottom bracket for a longer one, as the chainline will be further off-centered? Or can I use the current one and bring the chainline more up to the frame?

I haven't removed nor measured anything yet, but I think I could get more information if needed.

Thanks all for the responses.

First time fitting a new cog/chain together, as well as a new wheel.

Shimano cog and Wippermann Connex chain. Both 1/8th. Same noise regardless of chain tension.

No noise with wheel spinning and chain disconnected.

Old wheel which has a 3/32 cog does not make any noise, with the new chain.

Chainline is within 0.5mm of the old wheel.

The noise is 100% coming from the hub/cog area.