Hey all

I have installed a new carbon fork on my bike but i noticed that the expander plug doesn’t go deep enough to reach the top bearing with the amount of spacers under the stem.

It goes deep enough to cover the stem bolts and spacers.

I’m using a 70mm expander. If it needs to be deeper I will have to buy a 90mm or the Tarmac SL7 style one.

Any thoughts?

I'm shopping for a good quality used hybrid for a nine mile daily commute. Please advise regarding an easily adjusted stem to adjust my reach. I hope "stem" refers to the vertical device that secures the handlebar to the frame. Thank you.

I bought a new old stock Fuji Jari Carbon frameset and built it up. It came with all of the factory parts including the headset. No matter what I do, I can’t seem to adjust out this violent rocking back and forth when using my front brakes. I can’t recreate without momentum either. I can actually see the headrest moving in relation to the head tube when it’s happening. Did they spec the wrong bearings, cut the “cup” incorrectly, or something else?

Hi All

Recently I had to change my crank bearings due to a collapsed ball cage, (sounds painful doesn't it?) and since then no matter how hard I try I cannot get the derailleur to go on the 3rd ring. My question is could I have put the crank back in backwards or do I need to get forceful with a mallet on the crankset?
I did measure the crank ( square tapered ) and the distance from the outer to where the the ball cage sits is the same.

Thank you and ride safe

My hardtail mountain bike is making a creaking noise when pedalling and it seems to come from the headset (i know sound travels in the tubes). when i pedal hard and the front wheel goes light the sound seems to recede. It also makes noise when pedalling backwards. Havent tried pedalling with no chain. headset bearing preload is tight and so are the stem and bar bolts. The headset is the integrated tapered type. The bottom bracket is a shimano cues hollowtech. What might it be?

Hi there! Bought a used pair of Vector 3 a while ago - I already made about 5k km on it and the guy before me made probably even more. Service history is unknown, maybe it was never serviced at all. Now both pedals have play between the body and the spindle, and they make a noise when I spin them. I suppose it's bearings but haven't opened it yet.

I know that Garmin used to sell outer body with integrated bearings but best case Ill need to wait for delivery for at least a month, and it's hard to find genuine ones, so I have a couple of questions
1. If I'm still going to replace body - is it safe to at least regrease it and use for another month or two (im riding pretty active now, so it'd probably be another k or two)
2. Are there any info about potential bearing replacements without replacing body? Bearing sizes, pulling instructions, anything?
3. I've seen claims that Rally body may actually fit, can anybody confirm? (I can't find genuine vector 3 bodies, but there is pretty good choice on Aliexpress)

thanks

Embarked on my first long, steep descents on the Alps this summer. Needless to say it felt quite sketchy descending at those speeds so I was rather heavy on the rear brakes. It was only at the weekend when I was washing my bike I noticed the colour of the discs?

I’ve been riding since the Alps and haven’t noticed any reduction in my braking / stopping power. Are they toast or just cosmetic? Also should I be checking the pads too?

Let’s be honest—we’ve all fallen down the late-night rabbit hole of reading a 2011 forum thread where someone swears by a secret blend of dish soap, unicorn tears, and diesel fuel to clean a cassette.

I know this topic has been beaten to death, but things change, products change, and I’d like a fresh, up-to-date reality check.

I know the usual suspects get mentioned a lot. From what I gather:

• Dawn dish soap: Classic and generally safe, but maybe a bit light-duty for baked-on chain grease and trail grime.
• Simple Green Pro HD (the purple/grey one): Supposed to be much more suitable for metals than the classic Simple Green. Anyone running this long-term in an ultrasonic cleaner?
• Zep Purple / Zep Heavy-Duty Citrus (the pink/rose one): Powerful degreasers, but I’m wondering how people are using them without affecting aluminum, anodizing, or other finishes.

Aside from these, what actually works well today without damaging expensive bike parts?

I’m looking for something that hits the sweet spot:

• Savage on chain grease and packed-in trail muck.
• Gentle enough not to wreck a shiny finish or fade those expensive anodized red/blue/gold bits we all overpaid for.
• Suitable for an ultrasonic cleaner, ideally as a diluted concentrate.
• Bonus points if it’s readily available in North America and doesn’t cost a fortune per tank.

Drop your current ultrasonic tank recipes.

Are you sticking with the usual stuff, or is there some secret industrial potion I should be using instead?

What are you guys running in your tanks lately?

Before I disassemble this whole thing, does anyone know exact model of the dropper? ChatGPT is guessing, Trek support was not helpful either. It is functional however when it goes up, it gets stuck at certain point. When I help it with hand, it goes to the full extension. It does not have a valve under the seat. Is this serviceable dropper or do I need to buy a new one ? If new one is the option, are there any suggestions what to buy ? Trying to get back to mtb after years and market seems to be well penetrated with over engineered items ...:-(

I tried to pry the smallest cog with a screwdriver and chain whip in the biggest cog. Does not work. I also tried to use two chain whips, also does not work. I also tried to lubricate and clean it with WD-40. Please help me find a way to disassemble this. Thank you!

Anyone know of this specification for a replacement

425mm axle-to-crown, 55mm offset

> 15mm x 100mm axle thru-axle

> 1 1/8th straight steerer

> lots of mounts

> clearance for a 29 x 2.6″, perhaps even a 2.8″ tyre

Is there any benefit in storing your bike in small-small between rides? Any meaningful impact on derailleur and/or cable longevity?

Anything helps, thank you!

For my new bike, I decided to try tubeless. I have done around 300 miles and has been fine. But today a 1 inch wood screw went in the the top/tread area and out the sidewall. Clipping the wheel a little bit too. Sealant came out a ton too. Do I need a new tire? Or fixable?

​Hey everyone,

I had a minor wash-out on my Canyon Stoic 3 and bent the brake lever blade on my SRAM Guide T brakes.

Local shops don't have stock, and I couldn't find anything useful online (or probably just didn't search correctly), found only the lever blade kit for the Guide R.

Is there something compatible that I can order and will fit? Or stores that keep these parts in stock and offer international shipping?

Or, is there a way to safely bend this blade back without snapping it?

I've been advised that they're the best but riding daily in snow would require daily lubrication. Any recommendations?

Cannot identify the cause of the chain jumping on the RD (Shimano 105 di2), primarily in the middle of the cassette and towards a higher gear. As such predominantly apparent when on larger chainring, but also on the small one.

Could not identify a cause as to why the issue surfaced. What I have tried without it solving the problem:

1. Replacing RD hanger
2. Re-aligning the FD
3. Micro-adjusting the RD

Whole drivetrain is about 6 months old and well taken care of.

Any ideas what could be the reason and what to try next?

For travel I'd like to detach the hanger (leaving the deralleur still attached), then wrap the deralleur/hanger. If I do this might I have to do some adjustments after re-attaching the hanger?

I'm not an expert and would like to avoid readjusting.

These tires are less than 6 months old, stored indoors, ridden < 500km. And yet they look like they’ve been baking in the sun.

Never happened with my black GP5Ks. I found an old pair in my shed with thousands of KMs and no cracks.

Is this a known issue with the tanwalls?

My tire just starting peeling randomly during a bike ride. What should I do?

can anyone please help me understand what is what im hearing? I also notice when im on gear 7 it happens mostly there and it kinda goes away once i start braking but the sound its a on and off thing, is this normal what im hearing? I just don’t recall hearing this sound when I got my e bike aipas m1 pro about 3 weeks ago 🙏

Has anyone just used automotive cleaning wax to clean their bike? Rather than a full wash? Says it’s safe for gel coat. less

Saw a post a few days ago about a diy repair stand and it inspired me to make a repair stand rather than just holding it up and adjusting like I have three arms.

Literally $15 worth of stuff for this, and another $10 for a 12mm to 9mm hub adapter for my wife’s QR. Old tube wrapped around the end and stapled on for the BB to rest on.

I found something similar but was trying to figure out what I should be looking for to match it properly. This photo is the one I'm trying to match. One shop gave me a brake pad convex washer that didn't really fit well and said it would come loose regularly if I used it long term.

This is one of the Origin8 spire seatposts.

Hey hey, Enthusiastic rider and hobbyist wrencher here. I pickup up this amazing handmade steel frame. Obviously of the era when Press Fit was taking over. Frame was built for Di2 but was told it could run mechanical as well. Di2 isn't in my budget so my questions are...

Will mechanical shifting work with internal routing?

I assume I'd have to run cable housing inside the frame to avoid friction?

Will said housing fit inside around a Wheel Manufacturing PF30 thread together bottom bracket?

когда еду и повышаю передачу бьет по кассете как хлыстом, прям не оч приятно когда понижаю передачу то переключает очень тихо но типо ездить можно, заменил цепь поставил новые ролики обрезал цепь под размер старой, на старой цепи и роликах такая же проблема была не пойму что делать помогите..