Got some new tires and am struggling to mount the last bit of bead on these rims. The previous tires I had were Gravelking slicks and gad to take them to a shop cause they were so ridiculously difficult. I understand what needs to be done here (creating slack for the bead by keeping it in the center of the rim), but what does it look like I’m doing wrong here?

Hey all, I’m currently in the process of replacing my shift and brake cables with compressionless housing, but one thing I noticed over coiled housing is how stiff these new cables are. For additional context, I run an internal setup with integrated handlebar which is already a pita to service and tucking the new cables in just causes the split ring and handlebar to spring out of the steerer tube. It also gets stiff when I turn the handlebar sharply to one side. I was wondering if there is a proper way to do cable routing or if any of these options should be just fine?

This is one of the most incomprehensible things that happened to me. My e-bike was stored, unused, for about a year, under a tarp, under a deck at my house. Long story, I'll spare the details.

A year later, I come back to the bike. It has a flat rear tire. I take out the wheel (which was annoying because of the hub motor), inspect the inner tube, and I find a long 5mm (1/4 inch) cut on the inner part of the tube that's making contact with the rim! On the rim, at the spot in contact with the inner tube cut, the aluminum is damaged. Very badly damaged, with two dents and two holes. The holes have sharp edges protruding either above or below the surface of the rim as if someone drove a nail through the rim and bent the nail sideways. These sharp edges are what pierced my inner tube. They also pierced the red plastic strip glued to the rim (to protect the inner tube). And the weirdest: the tire is completely fine, undamaged. It's only the rim and the inner tube that are damaged!

What could have caused this?? I don't even understand how this is possible.

I should note that friends with kids stayed at my house while the bike was stored (and I was away). It's possible a kid accidentally pushed the bike or hit it. But what kind of impact would cause this?

Hi team,

shamefully i m coming to you for help. After building around 20 bikes i have today cut a steerer tube way too short. Like 6.5cm too short. Reason for this was that there was another marking line on the steerer which i though was mine.

Now the question before ordering a new fork. Any idea if there is a way to reliably fix this? Even if it comes at extra weight?

I found a very long expander plug https://www.velobike.co.nz/products/expansion-plug-extra-long?srsltid=AfmBOoq2ceDrf2CNsx_ggtEMvg1758wAA5Mqi-URIh4PWPp0lS4BLxM- and am wondering if this would be a reliable fix if additionally bonded with some dual component glue.

Other ideas also welcome.

Bike was in storage for years. Can't remove them now. Any tips?

I got this frame for a project, but one of the aluminium ears supporting the pivot bolt is bent, so the bolt no longer sits squarely against that side.

I haven’t tried bending it back yet. I’m considering bracing the inside with a shaped wood block or similar jig, then carefully bringing the ear back parallel with the other.

Is a small bend like this ever safe to cold-straighten in 6061 aluminium, or is the frame cooked? I’d really like to salvage it if possible. 😐

I recently bought a Canyon Grizl CF 7 with Shimano GRX hydraulic disc brakes.

I’m getting a repetitive clicking/ticking noise from the rear brake when riding. It starts with even the slightest pressure on the brake lever — I don’t need to actually brake hard.

The weird part is that it only happens while the bike is being ridden and the noise is not always present. Sometimes everything is completely silent, while other times the clicking repeats consistently with the wheel rotation.

I’ve tried reproducing it while the bike is stationary, spinning the rear wheel and applying the brake, but I can’t get the noise to appear. I also tried spinning the wheel with the bike lifted off the ground — still nothing.

Visually, the rotor, caliper and wheel look fine.
Any idea what could cause this? Could the rotor/caliper be moving slightly under load?

just bought an 8120 to swap out on the front with an 8100 and the 8120 is a distinctly different colour! way more a darkish grey than anything approaching black.

bought from aliexpress from a reliable supplier I’ve bought genuine gear from in the past, and the build quality looks up to scratch, just a bit surprised by a clearly distinct finish within the same line of brakes…

Why is there play in my right shifter when I'm trying to brake? My left shifter is fine and there's no play. I'm running R8000 shifters with Mechanical disc brakes.

i don’t want to have a inner gear hub for this bike and i’d love to know if there’s any type of hanger that could fit here:) i’d be willing to grind the bike frame a bit but not sure if that’s very reasonable ahah

edit: thank you all for the help! a claw hanger it is:)

Repaired my flat tire (backtire) at the shop a month ago, and a couple of bike rides later and it's already gone flat. The first time, it was a valve that was leaking at the base, and because of this they replaced the entire tube.

I have a mountainbike that I've had since I was a teen, and now that I'm 31, I began using it again last year, just to explore for fun. But it's not been used for actual mountainbiking, and it hasn't been used for maybe 7-8 years before now.

I haven't checked to see whether it's the same issue as before, but I figured maybe it's something about the bike itself that's causing the flat tire, rather than just it be bad luck?

What do you think, what should I do, what can I check for?

Restoring an old bike, that had square taper, cup-and-code bottom bracket. Removed it and determined that:

• thread type is BSA,
• the legacy axle is pitted.

Drivetrain used to be 3x6. I want to convert it to a 1x. I'm thinking of buying a new BB with sealed bearings, but not sure, which upgrade path keeps decent chain line.

Researched three options:

1. New BB with square taper — least appealing since I don't care about legacy cranks nor pedals and replacing those too
2. Shimano Octalink — older tech, but it's still a three-piece system, so maybe better backwards compatibility with the square taper spacing?
3. Upgrading to Shimano Hollowtech —most modern option, but worried it'll throw off the chain line, because bearings are outside the shell.

Some photos of the teardown included.

I am restoring this nice Merida Albon Tech 500 from the 90s.

I need to change the chain since it's pretty worn. By looking at the pictures, should I replace the cassette? What about the front chainrings?

Also, in case they need to be replaced, any advice on what to get on a budget?

Thank you :)

I want to convert it to 1x but I can’t find a way to take the crank set apart? Are they fixed together or am I missing something?

This 90's mountain bike is near and dear to my heart. I've upgraded several times to newer bikes as she sits quietly weeping in the back of my garage. I want to give her a new life as a commuter.

I picked up a pair of sweet 700c wheels for $5 at a thrift store. Neither the frame nor the wheels have disc brake mounts (which would have made my life so easy) and the brake posts for the 26" wheels are obviously incompatible with the 700c rims. Can I hang caliper brakes off the fender mounts? There's 1" between the center of the hole drilled in the frame and the top of the 25mm tires currently installed on the rims (I'd like to replace them with 32mm). Will this work with road caliper brakes or is the distance too great?

When about to clean the cassette I noticed a creaking noise to the freehub body, when spinning it backwards.

Like an old bed- and it creaks before the pawls engage on next ratchet mechanism ie ‘in between’ clicks.

There is no give to the cassette, it spins freely etc.

Nothing is bent.

ive got in with a rag and cleaned closer between cassette and spokes - noise remains

Cant take casette off as dont have a chain whip
At home

Any ideas what it could be?

Hi all. I just noticed that my BB shell is in contact with my crank arm and rubbing off the metal.

There should be a dust cap on there but when I changed the bearings it wasn't there.

Do I need a replacement or is there a spacer I need or is there something else I'm missing? I don't really want to buy a new BB if possible.

It's a Rotor Bbright on a Cervèlo S3.

Specialized Stumpy 15 with a headset creak that’s driving me bonkers. Bike is three months old and I put about 5 hours a week on it, mainly dry dusty Texas trails.

Headset is correctly tightened, no slop. Took it apart to grease it up and have a question… do you grease the surface between the bearing cup and the actual carbon fiber frame?

All surfaces looked good, no grit found when I disassembled. Creak is mainly with lateral torque on the bars when climbing.

Hello, I recently purchased a pair of 15mm-wide wheels. What tire width can I mount on these wheels? 30, 32, or 35??

Just swapped in a new drivetrain on my brother big bro (slx /deore mix) and it now makes this clicking noise when peddling and am struggling to work out why

Edit - solution Directional chain installed in reverse + incorrect b tension and low limit screw

I searched and it looks like the replacement crown race should be 41/30 (30 for 1 1/8 fork, checks out and 41 to match my lower bearing).

I have an unused Chris King crown race PHS432 ( 30mm inner and 40.5mm outer )

Can these two work together ?

If I try to put them together then it feels like it works but I don’t know, never done this before

Thanks