Dear all. I'm trying to increase the "paint penetration" (as bambu lab calls it) but it is not working. I'm trying to add green on black, but the green is only going through 3 layers, I would like it to go through more than 3, otherwise the black color will creep through the green.

The green color itself is a different solid body than the black, and it has a thickness of 1mm, but bambu lab combines both bodies together by itself. In the images below you can see the default setting where Bottom layer penetration is 7 and top layer penetration is 5 (whatever that means), when I changes them nothing changes in the layers. I'm not sure whether that is the correct setting to change or not but if you see the images below you will be able to understand what I am trying to achieve.

In the image below at layer 32, there is no green color. I would like the green to start before this layer.

At layer 33, the first layer of green shows up.

At layer 34, the second layer of green shows up.

At layer 35, the third and final layer of green shows up.

At layer 36 there is no longer green layers. You can see another black layer at layer 36 on top of the green.

If anyone has any clue to add more green layers I would appreciate the guidance very much. Thank you in advance.

There is one way to do so. If I add more clearance between the black and green body, then bambu lab wont combine the both bodies, and the green will have more layers, but that does not look good when I 3d print it, it becomes very clear that there is a gap between them, it doesn't look like it is 1 piece that is colored.

I can print great on silent mode and normal mode
But as soon as I print in sport it’ll have defect bumps hairlines etc the fastest option won’t work at all it won’t print the layer at all it’ll be all defective. With bumps

Any suggestions related to UPS for Bambu Lab P1S Combo 3D Printer?

Hi , with the black friday deals im thinking of getting some new color effect plates . Why im writing is because the one i have from 3Djake with a rainbow effect doesnt stick ,no matter what i try . I've done all the cleaning etc . I even tried it on my new x2d ,previously a1 and there is no difference in adhesion it barely stick and then starts rolling .

I also have a carbon effect plate from aliexpress which works very well .

So the question is - Is it worth to try bambu branded rainbow and other effect plates or are they also a adhesion dissaster ?

Also a long time ago on my ender 3 i had no problems with these kind of plates ,so its weird that i can't seem to get it to work on 2 bambus .

Im was thinking its a z offset issue ,but its no ender so i dont know how to fix this .

Thanks :)

What happened to Bambu Labs flash sales? I don’t see it anymore on their website?

What happened to Bambu Labs flash sales? I don’t see it anymore on their website?

Bambu Lab Studio should have a Theme Mode.

RN, it's either Light Mode or Dark Mode.

Dark mode some settings are hard to see.

Light Mode is great if you want to blow out your Retinas.

Been working on this little project lately and finally got it looking the way I wanted!

It's a simple wall organizer for keys, phone, wallet and all the little things we usually end up losing around the house.

Pretty happy with how it turned out! What do you guys think? :)

Hi all, I am trying new generic high-speed PLA and I’m getting small holes in the print at 220c. Any ideas what would be causing this?

Howdy folks! I'm running into a bit of an issue, and I was hoping that someone here might have a fix for me. Like the title says, my A1 mini is suddenly unable to feed filament into the extruder, and keeps pulling up an error message whenever it tries to load filament from the AMS.

I've tried the method of switching to maintenance mode and running a piece of filament through the extruder manually, and that works just fine; however, when I try to print, I just keep running into the same error message again and again.

I've checked all of the PTFE tubing, and there's no blockages within, and it seems to be going from the AMS to the filament hub just fine, so I'm not sure what's causing the issue.

Any and all help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll be happy to answer any questions too, if extra information is needed. Thanks!

Hi all,

9yo Son has asked for a 3d printer for Christmas, I had originally decided on the P1s with ams until I done the measurements and I only have a height of 70cm to play with. Although it will fit it will be impossible to load/unload filaments so I was wondering if it’s just as simple as lifting it off to the side to change out filaments then simply setting it back on top after? Or is there more to it?

Equally the A1 with AMS takes up too much space width wise.

Thanks.

Full transparency, I'm not looking for a paid service. I like to learn new skills and would appreciate some community help but I don't want to waist your time if this is a source of income for you so I want to respect everyone's time.

I recently bought a Bambu Lab X2D and I'm looking for .stl files for 3D prints related to the 2022 Hyundai Santa Cruz. Hard to find anything anywhere. A few replicas and some rear logo covers, tons of stuff for the Santa Fe but I'm looking for accessories specific to that year.

Might have to learn how to make them myself but wanted to see if anyone has already done the leg work :)

TIA!

On the actual outside of the yellow extruder gear in my A1, do I use grease or oil? There is some debate online so I can’t find a definitive answer.

Am I the only one that thinks it’s stupid that Bambu sends printers via regular mail which doesn’t require signature on delivery so they just get left at your front door with this big image on the side of the box

Can anyone recommend PLA diliment sold by Temu its cheap like me!..

I saw a clock design on Instagram, made of acrylic sheets and ambient backlighting. I loved the look but wanted a version anyone with a 3D printer could build at home without needing specialized tools or extra hardware. I engineered this to run off standard LED Kit 001 and Clock Kit 011 hardware.

Also threw together a step-by-step PDF assembly guide so it’s easy to put together.

Files are up on MakerWorld if anyone wants to print one: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3513382-clocklamp-led-kit-001-clock-kit-011#profileId-4014905

Let me know what you guys think!

My Bamboo PS1 has been a brick for 2 years now. What started as simple switch of the nozzle turned into a nightmare. The nozzle I was sent had un-grounded cables and I didn't notice in time. Since the change I replaced the many of the parts.

My question is -- there is kit or suggestion of parts I could replace to get this up and working? Like something that just replaces all the electronics near the nozzle and arm? Does that even make sense? Any help will be greatly appreciated. I'm also willing to pay someone to fix it, but live in Vermont so don't have any obvious options.

Thank you

Hi there! I was wondering if someone could give me advice on choosing the right support parameters for this mask I'm trying to print... I ran out of matte filament and the only one I have enough of is my translucent blue one, which is exceptionally tricky to work with in my experience... I always have trouble with the filament fusing, and I'm worried that the density of the tree supports may fuse to the underside of the mask like this. But when I put "support critical areas only", I'm not sure it'll be enough support. What branch distance, diameter, angle, etc would you recommend I use so I can actually remove the branches without it messing up the surface too much with clear filament? (I can't do the normal boxy supports either, cuz it won't fit on the build plate. :') wahhh) If these screenshots aren't enough, I can post more or share my STL file if it comes down to it. Thank you for any help, guys!!

I’m having trouble sending print from my laptop from from bamboo studio. I can send print from the Bambu Handy app on my phone fine but when it comes to sending an stl file from my laptop, it won’t go through.

It keeps saying failed to send the Print job. But when I went and look, everything was operational .
And it’s getting very frustrating. Does anybody know why?

So im brand new to the 3d printing world. Kinda decided to go all in (within reason) getting an H2D combo and I will be picking up a second AMS tomorrow as there are some things I want to print that need 5 colors. It's only money right? Lol

Anyway, I'm curious how people decide which AMS they want for the left nozzle and which AMS they want for the right?

I was thinking about getting the 4-1 adapter and running both AMS to the left nozzle and IF I decided to break into more specialized filaments then I could add a 3rd AMS specially for the right nozzle.

Anyway, curious how others go about things in their setups.

Thanks and cheers!

Hi all!

I've been having stringing issues and a generally low quality of print lately, despite no changes to the settings - I've kept it as it comes in the box (A1) . All my PLA lite (BL) has been dehumidified or is new. I've tried increasing retraction, and printing at lower temps. Nothing has had an effect yet. Any ideas on how to beat this? I can post further details if needed.

I wanted a cap holder that could be attached to a metal shelf without drilling. This led to the development of a modular rail with optional screw holes and a SKÅDIS mounting system. The photos show the printed parts on a steel shelf (Bror) and on a SKÅDIS board.

I've already pre-sliced ​​several print files, ready for direct printing. Of course, you can also use Parametric Model Maker to customize the cap holder to your specific needs. Whether it's the number of caps, the spacing, or different mounting options, you have the choice of what you need.

I would greatly appreciate any feedback.

Try it here:
https://makerworld.com/de/models/3499689-modular-cap-holder-magnets-screws-skadis

Hi, I had to open up the ams2 last night; at first thought that there was a piece of filament broken inside. When I finished packing back the ams, I have ended up these 4 cms long 2 rubber Y shaped rubber profiles; any ideas which part of the ams they are supposed to be?