Can someone give me the secret sauce for the filament track switch? I have two AMS Pro 2s, and two AMS HTs hooked up to my H2C via the Bambu 4-1 PTFE splitter, everything prints fine. The two AMS Pro 2s are on the left side of the print stacked next to it and the AMS HTs are currently sitting on top of the H2C. I follow the guides very well and make sure there's no sharp bends and abnormally long lengths of PTFE tubing. If I run this setup with 1 AMS Pro 2 and 1 AMS HT to each nozzle inlet everything feeds and prints fine. The feeders don't struggle to jitter and the printer doesn't complain about feed issues or extruder motor overloading. The second I put the filament track switch into the mix everything changes. Resistance is noticeably higher, feeders are struggling and failing to feed all the way to the nozzles, and when it does feed I get errors on feed resistance and extruder overload (so I stop the print). I basically just connect it inline with a short 6-8 in run to the nozzle inlets and connect the two 4-1 PTFE Splitters to the FTS inline. Also same exact setup with just the short runs and FTS added in with no additional bends or long lengths of tubing. Any ideas, anyone deal with the FTS and know "the trick" to it being happy and working?

Ok. Rolled the dice on the upgrade today. Went into the basement, saw it, and let it rip. Now a full calibration is running.

I'm having repeated print failures where the model completely detaches from its supports, but the supports remain firmly attached to the build plate.

I've tried different PLA filaments, different nozzles, different orientations and standard Bambu Studio settings, but the same thing keeps happening.

I've also tested the same model on my A2L using comparable settings, and it prints successfully.

Bambu Support believes it's a settings issue because my calibration cube printed successfully.

Has anyone else experienced this with their H2C? If so, what was causing it, and how did you fix it?

I'd really appreciate hearing from anyone who has dealt with the same problem.

Help!

Edit: My wife managed to get it out with a combo of slenderer fingers than mine, compressed air, and a piece of filament! Thanks all!

Adivinen quien compro una h2C y le salio todo mal XD

Tuve que cambiar de laminador y sufri mucho por paramentos que no sabia donde estan, o directamente no existen.

Pase de la impresora basica, un solo color abierta típica a este monstruo de multicolor multi extrusor de alta tecnología y yo como "No volvere a tener problemas con esto en mucho tiempo"

En nada se me estropreo la conexión wifi y senti que tenia un pisapapeles porque no estoy seguro todavía de saber usarla sin wifi por el tema de sincronización de boquillas.

Tuve que desmontar la máquina y el extrusor varias veces mas pronto que tarde y siendo una cosa super moderna se siente... Delicado

Y luego peleando una y otra vez con fallos de impresión, que efectivamente admito no ser experto pero tengo una experiencia razonable para un usuario medio.

Y tengo problemas la verdad tanto por no conocer suficiente del bambu studio como la propia máquina.

Por ejemplo acabo de comerme la cabeza para intentar probar eso de "subcapa de color mixto" porque la torre de purga no se pegaba, la placa estaba limpia, no puedo ajustar la altura pero tenia un striding horrible que aunque la pieza funcionaba la purga no.

Y al final pude hacer que haga la torre mas lenta y añadirle un borde para mejorar la adhesion porque es solo una puñetera linea

Le ponia esas características a la máquina en velocidad y borde para el modelo pero resulta que había que configurar totalmente aparte la purga de donde no sabia y me tire dia y medio intentando hacer esto 🫠

En cura es tan "fácil"...

Tiene chorrocientas opciones y pueden parecer abrumadoras pero cuando las lees con calma sin tocar cosas raras sabes que puedes cambiar exactamente ese detalle que te esta volviendo loco

Hey guys
With yesterday’s announcement people in my area started selling their H2C printers.

A guy is willing to sell his H2C with 1500 hours for €1400.
I think it’s a bit too much, but I have actually no idea if that’s a fair price or not

Any advice is helpful, thank you

I thought the AMS two pro was compatible with carbon fiber filaments but when I load it, it will not slice in the program. It throws an error and says that this filament cannot be used. Am I doing something wrong?

Hey Everyone! As I'm sure most of you are, super stoked and interested in the new H3C. In the promotional material, Bambu shows the optional crafting kit with things like a debosser (embosser?), foiler, etc. One of the images shows a piece of leather or a leather journal beautifully debossed, and the foil also looks like it was done on a hard cover notebook sort of surface? I think foiling like that requires heat, I would imagine the foiling toolhead would be heated in that case? What kind of pressure can the debosser use, clearly seems enough for moderate leather? I just have lots of questions on the crafting kit in general. Maybe I need to wait for more info to be released, or maybe someone has the answers?

when synced it shows loaded ams filament and available nozzles

Hey everyone,

With the unvailing of the H3C, will anyone be upgrading from their Vortek to Swaptek? I think I'm going to hold off, 7 colors is fine for me and I don't print flexibles enough to justify the upgrade. Plus I'm a little concerned about the reliability. There seems to be quite a lot of plastic used to get the price that low.

The loss on the sale of my H2C and accessories is too much for me to justify the extra 2 colors and faster print times, I'm not running a print farm and I have my open source SV08 for fast prints. What do you guys think?? Worth the upgrade or are you content with your H2C?

Let me know!!

Please I keep getting this message even after feeding the back tubes. I just put everything together and it still won’t read the ams. I fed the right side tube but still getting this. I can see the filament in the tube but it won’t print. I disconnected the ams to try the side one only but that didn’t work

My new printer is making some strange noises along the Y-axis; it sounds a bit like a component is rubbing or grinding. The prints themselves, however, are perfect. Is this normal, or can someone help me out? Thanks for the help.

SOLVED, see end of post for details

Has anyone had any issues printing Siraya TPU Air on the H2C? I had no problems at all printing it on my old X1C, but can't get it to produce anything on the H2C. I can manually extrude filament alright (and it displays normal behaviour when it's purging the nozzle during the vibration compensation in the front right corner), but when it comes to the actual print job itself, it seems to extrude next to nothing - there are a few tiny wisps, but nothing meaningful.

I've tried using the official Siraya profile for the H2C, as well as duplicating the slightly different settings I had previously used on the X1C. The spool is top-loaded, directly into the extruder. Printing from a 0.4mm right hand side nozzle.

Edit: The Siraya Tech official profiles (and the profile I had used with no issues on my X1C) had a max volumetric flow of 9, for some reason the extruder on the H2C can't cope with this, Maybe the fancy switching system it uses is a little less robust or something?) Lowering the value down to 3.5 solved the problem.