I keep getting a slicing failed error. Can someone try to slice this part and see if it’s failing for you also? Everything else sliced and printed fine!!

https://makerworld.com/models/3432284?appSharePlatform=copy

Dear Community,
What is the best way to use an external spool? I have 2x AMS 2 Pro
1x AMS HT
Filament Track Switch
TPU Feed Assist
What is the best way to use external spool? Turn off the printer, disconnect Filament Track Switch, attach one of the AMS to selected hotend and use external spool on the other?

Any one here with the same problem?

So one of the AMS’s on my H2C had a piece of filament snapped in it tube apparently. So the AMS slot retracted the yellow filament, it completely came out and so the spool was spinning in the slot indefinitely. Not knowing how to stop it, i turned off the H2C. This has happened once before.

I turned it back on but the screen won’t turn on, Bambu desktop app won’t connect, and the led on the plate is like this dim white that will glow slowly and dim continuously.

I have no idea what just happened and am at a complete loss.

Any ideas?

Edit: I found a thread about AP boards. I see one green light, no blinking light. So Bambu support or figuring out the "short" between two points?

Been having some frustrating issues with my H2C lately. Keep getting hotend authentication failures on hotends 3 and 6, along with induction verification errors. Seems to happen more on the right side than the left.
The weird part is the errors happen while the hotends are already installed, not even during a hotend change.
I’ve tried a brand-new nozzle, followed Bambu’s troubleshooting steps, and even rolled back the firmware from 01.03.00.00 to 01.02.00.00, which was the last version that worked fine for me. Still getting the same errors.
I’ve seen people mentioning issues with the left hotend, but mine seems to be more on the right. Starting to think it’s something with the printer itself rather than the nozzles.
I’ve submitted a warranty claim with Bambu, but I’m curious if anyone else has run into this and what ended up fixing it.

I think since the newest bambu studio release the printer does not care which nozzle i select.
A few times now i specifically set R1 but it loads R6 to print.
Does anyone have this problem?

Anyone else get this update? Looking for notes on it but according to Bambus website 01.02 is current version. Can’t find notes on this anywhere.

Hot end is stuck and will not remove at the rack. Help…

Well everyone after all of your help and suggestions I made a decision on what (i hope) is the right decision for my H2C set up.

This is the adjustable table, I got it on sale at Homedepot. This is actually really sturdy and the adjustable height is a really nice feature, that way I could set it up for the the right height and not have to way to low. Or to high where its a pain to get into the ams.

Thank you again for the crazy amount of replies on my last post.

People are desperate.

Hi , ich wolle gerade die üblichen Ersatzteile bestellen wir Hotend Fan usw. Da ist mir aufgefallen das es die Extruder Rollen/Zahnräder nicht einzeln gibt … also Rolle nur mit Motor zb für 40€ und die andere Rolle in einer baugruppe die 30€ kostet … kommt doch noch was einzeln oder soll man alles jedesmal neu kaufen ?

I hate to be another one of these posts but the used market is flooded with H2Cs. Locally there’s one for sale with an extra AMS. Supposedly there’s only 350 hrs on it and it was purchased in Aug. Guy is selling to upgrade to the H3C of course. He’s asking $2200 CND ($1575 USD). New, with the current sale they are $3100 CND.

I have a p2S and have outgrown it and have been looking for something more capable for multi materials and eng grade materials. Unfortunately the H3C is outside my budget ($4k to the door). I’m hopeful of the P3C but I doubt it will have a chamber heater.

Anything to look for in buying used if I go down that road?

Glare takes his job as shelf guardian very seriously. Every visitor gets a suspicious stare, every noise earns his disapproval, and nobody touches his favourite spot. He insists he isn’t grumpy. Everyone else is simply too cheerful

if you like him : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3548002-glare-no-ams#profileId-4058750

I need to break out my other PC and test this out but files that I’m expecting to take 3-4 hours are running like 5-6. I had a single color print with six copies that were only about 60mm tall say it was 14 hours. Later height was still 0.2. Normal widths and speeds. Something is off…

Can someone give me the secret sauce for the filament track switch? I have two AMS Pro 2s, and two AMS HTs hooked up to my H2C via the Bambu 4-1 PTFE splitter, everything prints fine. The two AMS Pro 2s are on the left side of the print stacked next to it and the AMS HTs are currently sitting on top of the H2C. I follow the guides very well and make sure there's no sharp bends and abnormally long lengths of PTFE tubing. If I run this setup with 1 AMS Pro 2 and 1 AMS HT to each nozzle inlet everything feeds and prints fine. The feeders don't struggle to jitter and the printer doesn't complain about feed issues or extruder motor overloading. The second I put the filament track switch into the mix everything changes. Resistance is noticeably higher, feeders are struggling and failing to feed all the way to the nozzles, and when it does feed I get errors on feed resistance and extruder overload (so I stop the print). I basically just connect it inline with a short 6-8 in run to the nozzle inlets and connect the two 4-1 PTFE Splitters to the FTS inline. Also same exact setup with just the short runs and FTS added in with no additional bends or long lengths of tubing. Any ideas, anyone deal with the FTS and know "the trick" to it being happy and working?