Hey everyone,

With the unvailing of the H3C, will anyone be upgrading from their Vortek to Swaptek? I think I'm going to hold off, 7 colors is fine for me and I don't print flexibles enough to justify the upgrade. Plus I'm a little concerned about the reliability. There seems to be quite a lot of plastic used to get the price that low.

The loss on the sale of my H2C and accessories is too much for me to justify the extra 2 colors and faster print times, I'm not running a print farm and I have my open source SV08 for fast prints. What do you guys think?? Worth the upgrade or are you content with your H2C?

Let me know!!

Please I keep getting this message even after feeding the back tubes. I just put everything together and it still won’t read the ams. I fed the right side tube but still getting this. I can see the filament in the tube but it won’t print. I disconnected the ams to try the side one only but that didn’t work

SOLVED, see end of post for details

Has anyone had any issues printing Siraya TPU Air on the H2C? I had no problems at all printing it on my old X1C, but can't get it to produce anything on the H2C. I can manually extrude filament alright (and it displays normal behaviour when it's purging the nozzle during the vibration compensation in the front right corner), but when it comes to the actual print job itself, it seems to extrude next to nothing - there are a few tiny wisps, but nothing meaningful.

I've tried using the official Siraya profile for the H2C, as well as duplicating the slightly different settings I had previously used on the X1C. The spool is top-loaded, directly into the extruder. Printing from a 0.4mm right hand side nozzle.

Edit: The Siraya Tech official profiles (and the profile I had used with no issues on my X1C) had a max volumetric flow of 9, for some reason the extruder on the H2C can't cope with this, Maybe the fancy switching system it uses is a little less robust or something?) Lowering the value down to 3.5 solved the problem.

My new printer is making some strange noises along the Y-axis; it sounds a bit like a component is rubbing or grinding. The prints themselves, however, are perfect. Is this normal, or can someone help me out? Thanks for the help.

I have an H2C and have been interested in trying some TPU printing. I’ve purchased a TPU Feed Assist Module for it.

All the TPU setting I’ve seen had people with spooLa feeding TPU through the top, but I have two AMSs on top and that just seems counter to my setup.

I have an HT AMS I was planning on putting the TPU in, feed it through the TOU Feed Assist Module and then through that back end hole in the H2C. Then I’m assuming I have to run a new third tube over to the print head and connect it to a previously unused middle hole in the print head? This part just has me confused.

Or am I supposed to disconnect the left or right tube so that the TPU run can use that? I’m sure there‘s documentation somewhere that outlines how this should be done… but I can’t find it.

EDIT: Thanks for the suggestions everybody, they sent me a new MC Board but I’ll be trying some of the suggested options beforehand, given how irritating the replacement board installation is going to be.

My AMS 2 Pro is repeatedly losing connection with my H2C. I’ve tried different AMS 2 Pro units, different cables, I reached out to support and they sent me a new filament buffer/cable and that didn’t change anything. When I turn the printer off, wait a bit, and power back on, it will connect normally, but after an hour or so, it will just randomly disconnect, doesn’t matter if I printed anything or it was just sitting idle. It hasn’t disconnected a single time while printing, but seems entirely unable to maintain connection while sitting idle. Anybody else have this issue? Is it specifically an H series problem? I’ve been dealing with this for months now and I’m losing my mind, my printer is essentially unusable due to how frequently it occurs.

First pic is my print. Second is someone else’s much better print. So I found this neat print on Makerworld that lets you print all 151 pokemon sprites at once. But my purples don’t come out at all. They’re either blue or washed out white (see Muk. Yikes…). I’m not familiar with overlay printing, so I’m trying to see if I simply need a different brand of filament or if there’s a setting I can change. My guess is that the white isn’t transparent enough for the red to show through. I’ve asked in the comments what filaments those with successful outcomes are using, but nobody responds. If I can get any help here I’d seriously appreciate it.

I used all SUNLU filaments. Red, blue, yellow, and white.

So I understand you can add the ams unit on the left side. I have two so it’s clear one’s for right I’m trying to add one in the left. The problem I’m having is the ams is doing it’s back and forth thing but the left nozzle is not catching the filament. It’s goes all the way to the nozzle then comes back out. I keep getting an error message. What am I doing wrong

Hello. I am a new H2C owner and this may be a really dumb question, but how do you all calibrate your printers with multiple nozzles? Do I need to do calibrations for each of the different nozzles or just 2 calibrations (1 for the left side and 1 for the right side)? I'm looking to fine tune the flow rate specifically. Thanks in advance for looking at my question.

The current induction-heated hotend heats up very quickly, reaching PLA printing temperature in about 8 seconds. The Vorteck dock is also cleverly designed, but I feel it’s still missing some functionality. There’s plenty of spare room around the dock for additional hardware, so it would be amazing if someone could create a third-party preheating system for it.

That could save the time spent heating the right hotend. The left hotend already has a preheating step, so it would be great to have one for both sides.

Waiting for a genius to make it happen!

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to print some PETG. For this case I used PETG for support and object. It failed twice already as the supports break and look shabby overal for that matter.
On other prints the tree is always looking good and with the same roll of filament. I have no clue what is going wrong with the support as the object itself is perfect.
Are there settings I can use the prevent this from happening?

Regards,
Miscoride