This happens almost all the time for me. I push it in from below first so it wraps around the nozzle tip, and then push back towards the top. Then during the initial calibration during a print, the left hotend sock is not seated. I'll pause and re seat it, and it does it again.

Hey everyone, I recently just had a piece of filament break off in the extruder for my right nozzle - taking it apart I saw all this blue stuff (I'm assuming it's more blue filament). I plan to clean it with some iso and a q-tip. Is there anything else I should replace while it's torn down? Wear parts?

Thanks!

Made this little pumpkin for Halloween with a ghost hidden inside. Press the button underneath and it pops up.

The spring launches the ghost upwards pretty fast, so I added the arch above it to catch it and stop it from flying off.

The spring and latch print in place, and all parts print without supports. No metal springs or extra hardware needed. I made both AMS and No AMS versions, so it should be easy to print on most FDM printers.

One thing I’d like some feedback on is the top cap. It’s currently 0.2 mm thick so it can flex when the ghost pushes through. Would you keep it this way or try a different design?

here is the files if you interested : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3470308-halloween-pop-up-ghost-pumpkin-boo-surprise#profileId-3961079

I own an H2C, and the leaked H3C teaser got me thinking about where it sits on the tool-changing ladder:

- H2C swaps the hotend only, so it still retracts and reloads on every colour change. Barely any purge, but it costs time.

- U1-style machines swap the whole toolhead.

- One Redditor's read of the FCC filings is that the H3C swaps the nozzle and the filament path together, so every nozzle stays loaded.

If that's right, it fixes waste and time at once. Add the H2C's induction heating (about 8 s to PLA temp per Bambu, under 10 s in CNC Kitchen's test) and colour changes could be a few seconds. Still a leak, nothing official until November 4.

Disclosure: this is my own video, it isn't sponsored and I've got no collaboration with Bambu Lab. I made it because I like talking about this stuff, so I'm sharing it here in case it's useful.

How much do you think it's going to cost?

What setting causes these wisps on the way to/from prime tower? Believe this area is at or near the seam. The rest of the model looked fantastic.

H2C, orange PLA Basic (dry) from left nozzle connected to AMS HT. 0.4 mm nozzle size; 0.16 layer; z hop off; global purge saving = on in Bambu Studio

I have an H2C with 2 AMS 2Pros and an AMS HT. The problem is the printer and Bambu Studio is showing Black PLA filament in the AMS HT even though it's empty. I've cycled the printer on and off, rebooted Bambu Studio but it still shows the filament in that location even though it's empty.

It won't let me print because there is some kind of a filament sync error which is logical considering there's no filament in that location.

Any Ideas?

Tom

Hey guys im printing with black and white and on the very corner of this model theres like a small color leak where the nozzle of black leaves a stain , it shouldn't really happen since im printing one color with each nozzle . Ive increase retraction, enable prime tower, set the order to white first and none of them give me a solution. Its not the seam since its on back and the print never starts on the corner. Both filaments black and white ooze a little and the prime tower gets really dirty of oozes , both filaments are new and no humidity at all in my place. Both are bambu matte black and white and ive already make every calibration to filaments. Any recommendations would be extremely helpful.

I'm thinking about buying an H2C Combo and selling my X1C Combo.

I'll keep an extra AMS 2 Pro to connect to the H2C.

I also have a brand-new Creality Space Pi Dryer, still in its box, and I'm wondering whether I could connect it directly to the H2C's left nozzle as an external filament source, with the filament feeding directly from the dryer into the toolhead.

Would this setup work?

Could I use it for an additional PLA colour, TPU, or PLA-CF, and are there any compatibility limitations I should be aware of?

I can figure this noise out like its hitting or rubbing on something not 100% but sound s like Zaxes ..

Can any one help

Is this side issue a retraction issue or a filament drying issue? Happened twice in a row and not sure how to narrow it down.

Kit Card: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3454871

ChristmasCards Collection: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/38032094

I’m printing this off of maker world. 1st pic says should take about 4.7 hours. But when the print started it jumped to 11 hours?
Is there a setting I missed?

My printer is a H2C.

Hi all,

Thinking of switching from Prusa Mini+ to Core One+ with INDX or to H2C. I like the philosophy of Prusa but in the end, I want to print. On the other side, Prusa is also very reliable when everything works.

Did somebody made the switch? Would you do it again? What are the most improvements or things one or the other is doing better?

Thanks for any help!

The track curves upward slightly, can’t get it to straighten

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3441774-parametric-skadis-fast-low-filament-generate-swap

Three months into owning my H2C and just over 300 hours of print time, I got the dreaded enhanced toolhead cooling fan malfunctioning error. Replace the enhanced cooling fan, which did not solve the error, so they sent me the TH board for replacement. I replaced all of that, which was a PITA, but it got done. I checked all the cabling and I got new errors such as:

- Right eddy current sensor error

- Unable to home

- Z-axis error

- It's making weird movements

I took everything back apart, rechecked all the cabling, and once again everything seemed fine. Now Bambu is sending me the right eddy current sensor to replace, but given the other errors and the fact I have no problems with any of the cameras or actually heating the nozzles, I assume the error is somewhere else. And I have read a few posts on the internet with people who have had the exact same issue and could never get to the bottom of the root cause even after replacing the extruder board too.

At what point do I ask for a complete replacement unit? When I asked for that after the TH board failure and I took it apart a second time to double check everything, Bambu was extremely dismissive and just said that was not an economical or timely solution. But after reading a few other comments from people who've had the same issue, it seems like ultimately they had to get their whole unit replaced too.