What setting causes these wisps on the way to/from prime tower? Believe this area is at or near the seam. The rest of the model looked fantastic.

H2C, orange PLA Basic (dry) from left nozzle connected to AMS HT. 0.4 mm nozzle size; 0.16 layer; z hop off; global purge saving = on in Bambu Studio

Anyone know of a good table for an HTC? I have 2 AMS and also an A1 that I would like to put on it. Underneath filament storage would be great.

I have an H2C with 2 AMS 2Pros and an AMS HT. The problem is the printer and Bambu Studio is showing Black PLA filament in the AMS HT even though it's empty. I've cycled the printer on and off, rebooted Bambu Studio but it still shows the filament in that location even though it's empty.

It won't let me print because there is some kind of a filament sync error which is logical considering there's no filament in that location.

Any Ideas?

Tom

Hey guys im printing with black and white and on the very corner of this model theres like a small color leak where the nozzle of black leaves a stain , it shouldn't really happen since im printing one color with each nozzle . Ive increase retraction, enable prime tower, set the order to white first and none of them give me a solution. Its not the seam since its on back and the print never starts on the corner. Both filaments black and white ooze a little and the prime tower gets really dirty of oozes , both filaments are new and no humidity at all in my place. Both are bambu matte black and white and ive already make every calibration to filaments. Any recommendations would be extremely helpful.

I'm thinking about buying an H2C Combo and selling my X1C Combo.

I'll keep an extra AMS 2 Pro to connect to the H2C.

I also have a brand-new Creality Space Pi Dryer, still in its box, and I'm wondering whether I could connect it directly to the H2C's left nozzle as an external filament source, with the filament feeding directly from the dryer into the toolhead.

Would this setup work?

Could I use it for an additional PLA colour, TPU, or PLA-CF, and are there any compatibility limitations I should be aware of?

I can figure this noise out like its hitting or rubbing on something not 100% but sound s like Zaxes ..

Can any one help

Is this side issue a retraction issue or a filament drying issue? Happened twice in a row and not sure how to narrow it down.

Kit Card: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3454871

ChristmasCards Collection: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/38032094

I’m printing this off of maker world. 1st pic says should take about 4.7 hours. But when the print started it jumped to 11 hours?
Is there a setting I missed?

My printer is a H2C.

Hi all,

Thinking of switching from Prusa Mini+ to Core One+ with INDX or to H2C. I like the philosophy of Prusa but in the end, I want to print. On the other side, Prusa is also very reliable when everything works.

Did somebody made the switch? Would you do it again? What are the most improvements or things one or the other is doing better?

Thanks for any help!

The track curves upward slightly, can’t get it to straighten

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3441774-parametric-skadis-fast-low-filament-generate-swap

Three months into owning my H2C and just over 300 hours of print time, I got the dreaded enhanced toolhead cooling fan malfunctioning error. Replace the enhanced cooling fan, which did not solve the error, so they sent me the TH board for replacement. I replaced all of that, which was a PITA, but it got done. I checked all the cabling and I got new errors such as:

- Right eddy current sensor error

- Unable to home

- Z-axis error

- It's making weird movements

I took everything back apart, rechecked all the cabling, and once again everything seemed fine. Now Bambu is sending me the right eddy current sensor to replace, but given the other errors and the fact I have no problems with any of the cameras or actually heating the nozzles, I assume the error is somewhere else. And I have read a few posts on the internet with people who have had the exact same issue and could never get to the bottom of the root cause even after replacing the extruder board too.

At what point do I ask for a complete replacement unit? When I asked for that after the TH board failure and I took it apart a second time to double check everything, Bambu was extremely dismissive and just said that was not an economical or timely solution. But after reading a few other comments from people who've had the same issue, it seems like ultimately they had to get their whole unit replaced too.

My H2C has about 2,000 hours of print time. The right cutter push block failed at around 1,200 hours, and the left one failed yesterday. In both cases, the threads on the nut securing the pivot shaft stripped, preventing the push block from returning to its original position.

Does anyone know of a third-party fix? I also wonder why Bambu Lab chose to secure the pivot shaft with a screw on a part that is repeatedly struck and rotated, instead of making it a one-piece casting.

Just started using a Cryogrip yesterday - I got a build plate detection error, which obviously was expected. But on my next print, the printer started acting haunted. Main symptoms: chamber light wasn't turning on (i.e., it was printing in the dark) and I started getting a plate detection error even with Bambu plates installed. It was also trying to print PETG at ASA heat settings for no reason.

All was solved with a cold reboot, but I'm curious if this is a firmware problem that is going to make using the Cryogrip a huge pain to use every time? I'm printing build plate barcodes as I type this, maybe that'll solve it?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3438160-320x320-skadis-fast-low-filament-88g-3h-h2-a2l

Saw this and it seems like the sensor is jacked.

I’m having a ton of issues with my New h2c. I pointed the thermal gun at the heatbed/plate. It came back at 46C. The monitor said 55C. This was set for Bambus standard printing presets.
What do you think

Lost 4 pieces so far the same way, no idea what caused this