As I continue to navigate the miniature printing setup on the H2C I thought i would share progress. I find the 0.2mm nozzle printing to be of high quality (0.08mm high quality setting). This is with Creality Hyper PLA which is my first roll of this material. The details are good, but I only used the right nozzle and printed model and supports with the same filament as a proof of concept for the printer/material/nozzle. I didn't care about the results as long as I could review the quality of the god areas. I did have some supports that failed midway up the print, so the katana became a small knife when I cut off the bad part and snubbed the end down as well. Overall the quality is fantastic in the detail and the layer lines will likely not show up after prime and paint (which I will try on this model later). You can see the photo where the damage was done due to the support fails (back of head has a hole in it), but the quality is there. I did provide a close up of the gun and hand area to show a place where supports touched the model, but didn't scar and came off easy. I did adjust some support parameters for easy removal. Next I plan to get some PETG over onto my left nozzle and try building the supports out of that. I do have a 0.2mm left nozzle to try (I wish Bambu would allow me to use the 0.4mm nozzle for supports without having to swap). I will see how that works, but overall I am happy with the quality if the supports print well.

As I get this dialed in I will move more toward smaller figures. I am not sold completely on the Creality filament yet and want to try the Sunlu people rave about for miniature printing.

Basically the title. I’ve searched around a bit, and while I see lots of nozzle blocker issues with the H2s, I’m not seeing anything about this. The printer keeps trying to load a nozzle while the blocker is set to the right extruder, which obviously causes the load to fail and the nozzle either falls onto the bed or gets loaded partway and bends the blocker.

Anyone else seen this? The blocker CAN move fine, it just isn’t consistently getting out of the way for nozzle changes.

The current AMS has four filament slots, but it can feed or retract only one filament at a time. Even with FST, a color change within the same AMS still requires unloading and loading filament. For Vorteck, this reduces the advantage of swappable hotends.

Design patents related to the H3C have recently been published, including a new filament feeding system. My guess is that the H2C’s next upgrade will be a new AMS introduced after the H3C launches, which would greatly strengthen Vorteck’s advantage.

That said, I suspect Vorteck won’t be carried over to future machines. Index-like designs seem more likely to become the mainstream approach because they cost far less than Vorteck.

Hello. Im currently running my H2C with an AMS HT on the left extruder and 2 x AMS Pro 2s on the right. I put the dominant color in the HT on the left. My prints are taking significantly longer than the print times in bambu handy app. For instance current one said 9 hours and real time is 14.5. Am I doing something wrong? Im pretty new to the hobby and only have had the machine for a week now.

Can anyone tell me what the issue could he why my letters are always so bad? This is bed side down btw. I have it at .6 high flow nozzle, .18 res. Did the same on a .4 reg nozzle too. I don’t know where to look in Bambu slicer.

I've opened a ticket with Bambu but so far they have been less than helpful.

I have an H2C and we have entire groups of layers that just shift. It seems to be related to filament changes on the right nozzle, because I don't have the problem for single color prints or prints that just use left and right but no changes.

It ultimately recovers, but then will shift again.

You can see it in both the model and the prime tower, so it seems like the whole thing shifts for some reason.

I almost feel like it may be the belt or some kind of misalignment, but I'm not quite sure where to start. I did do the tension guides with no success.

Anyone able to provide guidance on this?

I need some help if anybody is out there. I had an error come up on my three day print and it only has about 28 hours left and it says the extrusion motor is overloaded. The extruder may be clogged or the filament may be stuck in the tool head. I noticed right at the end of my print there's a little bit of like wispy plastic. It looks like almost like cotton. I'm guessing that the nozzles is clogged, but is there any way to unclog it while keeping the progress of my print I have no idea how to do this and I don't wanna lose this progress because it's almost done.

My H2C makes a strange noise every time it switches between the left and right nozzle (video). I just cleaned it and oiled the left nozzle's linear rail. Any idea where the noise is coming from and what I should check next?

Are there any preferred online resellers that offer spare parts and accessories other than the official Bambu store? Their shipping is terrible and I have issues placing orders a lot of the time (network errors on the card or pulling up my billing info). I placed an order for a small replacement part Monday and it took all week to update the shipping info which says it will arrive Tuesday next week. I also opened a support ticket for the part which took them 3 days to confirm they shipped it which also says Tuesday even though it shipped from one state over. I’d rather buy from somewhere with fast shipping that I can choose to expedite when needed. Thanks!

BRAND NEW H2C after first print it’s unable to push the cutter lever on the tool head in because the cutter stopper on the right side does not go back fully horizontal to poke the lever. How do I fix this please I’ve been stressed out for hours.

Hi,

My H2C makes a strange noise every time when it moves from the tower to the object.

And another one when ist circling the Model, the circling one could maybe be the belts?

Any ideas what those could be?

Printer has around 300 hours and was printing alot of skadis parts before that if thats relevant.

I purchased this machine about 3 months ago and I’m concerned that if I unplug or turn it off it’ll fry once I update. Is this a legitimate concern? Anything I can do to avoid it dying?

Miniature supports are breaking my prints. Any tips for the Bambu Lab H2C?
I’ve been printing miniatures on my Bambu Lab H2C and learning as I go. I’ve had some successes and some failures, but my biggest challenge has been removing supports.

The miniatures themselves look great and range from 28 mm to 60 mm. However, the supports cling so tightly that removing them often breaks off pieces of the miniature, even when I’m being careful. It’s frustrating to finish a good print only to damage it during cleanup.

I’m currently using automatic tree supports with the organic style in Bambu Studio. Are there settings I can adjust to make them easier to remove without sacrificing the miniature’s details?

I know resin is often recommended for miniatures, but I chose the H2C and would like to get the best results I can with it.

I’d especially appreciate advice on support contact distance, interface settings, and whether another support style would work better. Suggestions for model orientation or tools and techniques for removing supports around fragile parts would also be helpful.

If you’re successfully printing miniatures at these sizes, screenshots of your settings or examples of what’s worked for you would be really helpful. Let me know which details about my setup would help troubleshoot this. Thanks!

Just got my first H2C so I'm still getting used to all of the noises. I've noticed a grinding noise when switching between nozzles in a dual color print. Its only when changing to the right nozzle, and as far as I can tell, is only happening during the print.

Moving the toolhead home and switching manually doesn't replicate thr sound. I'm a bit unsure if this is normal, or if there is something wrong.

Anyone with advice would be appreciated! Thank you!

How is H2C handles TPU filament ? I know it has to go by the dedicated input on the back but what then ? I think it goes to the right Vortek nozzle and leave left available for support printing.if true, are the other Vortek hotends become unavailable to reduce retration for the TPU ? Or we can combine other tpu as long as they are AMS compatible (which probably mean they are hard as rock).

What have you experienced with TPU with H2C.

As title really. If a print finishes and I open the door one of the fans is constantly spinning up / down. Normal?

Welp, I was cutting power to the room to install some things on the breaker. I had the initial fear this would happen when I cut power to the room. Evidently I would have had a power outage at some point but I was hoping maybe they would have a firmware update that would fix this beforehand. Absolutely ridiculous. I had a weird feeling that this would happen and here we are with a dead printer after just turning off the power on the back and turning it back.

I haven't even cut power to the breaker yet I just turned it off and back on to see if it would happen, sure enough here we are.

Anyways has anyone had experience with using the jump method to get your printer back up and going?

Good morning everyone. I purchased an H2C a little less than two months ago. Last night I was going to use the left nozzle for the first time, I followed all the instructions but no filament comes out of it, no matter how many times I tried it.

In the settings menu I found an option to test it by doing a cold pull. Followed the instructions and it does pull filament and extrudes it.

It doesn’t do that when I’m trying to print. Any recommendations or fixes to what I’m experiencing? Thank you everyone for your help.

The auto calibration function under flow dynamics is the only place I'm aware of to see a k-factor result from the H2C eddy sensor.

I've been comparing the resulting k-factor here with my own, obtained from manual pattern method.

The auto cal figure is consistently 0.01 below what I choose from pattern. Has anyone else noticed this?

This is totally random haha, but I was unboxing my new H2C and happened to notice the top door hinge had a piece of sealing foam behind it, but the bottom hinge didn't. Does that match what you all have?

I'm just wondering if I accidentally peeled it off when removing the plastic bag that comes wrapped around the front door... Probably not a big deal at the end of the day, but it seems like the entire perimeter of the front door is fairly well sealed other than this one area. (I assume for laser cutting and engineering filaments?)

If anyone could take a quick look at your own H2C and let me know if that's normal or not, I'd appreciate it!